subkron
Junior Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2017
- Posts
- 21
- Reaction score
- 21
- Ram Year
- 2015
- Engine
- Hemi 5.7
Was looking for a means to get a front hitch to allow putting bikes up front, tow a teardrop trailer, keep the tonneau closed for weather protected storage, still be able to use my rambox, put a canoe on the cab and finally - keep the factory tow hooks. For the 1500 model I have, the tow hooks need to be removed to mount aftermarket front hitches unless you do a modication. Rather than a complete fab I ended up modifying a standard front mounted hitch Reese 65062. I purchased the hitch new in sep-24 and it was $186, for some ridiculus reason I now (2 months later) it is $220. The Reese hitch is already setup to mount in front but the tow hooks need to be removed for the original fit, didn't really like that idea.
The hitch is installed by 4 bolts - the front two make use of the existing tow hook mounting and the rear get mounted to the frame. I basically just cut off the 2 front ears/flanges of the hitch and then welded them so they were level with the top of the hitch's square tube member (of course you need to maintain the same distance side to side). This dropped the ears down about an inch (can't recall the exact drop). A couple of gussets were welded on as well and also cut off those integrated loops that would have been the tow hook replacements.
The factory tow hooks come with a flanged rubber bushing that has a removable metal inner bushing which I removed. I then cut off one of the rubber flanges.
I found a 23/32" OD, 0.508" ID, 1" long galvanized spacer to replace the longer metal bushing I removed. When the hooks are reinstalled, the rubber bushing's flanged side remains between the tow hook and frame which maintains the original spacing. The hitch is then bolted to the tow hook - the original factory bolts are more than long enough to take up the additional hitch ear thickness.
The hitch's rear bolts need to be installed per the instructions, real simple with a step drill and the hardware they supply. I did not trim the front fascia. Only thing now (of course) is the clearance is reduced. It is actually pretty easy to put on/off, the only issue the weight and awkwardness aligning it. For now I leave it off unless I have a trip planned.
The hitch is installed by 4 bolts - the front two make use of the existing tow hook mounting and the rear get mounted to the frame. I basically just cut off the 2 front ears/flanges of the hitch and then welded them so they were level with the top of the hitch's square tube member (of course you need to maintain the same distance side to side). This dropped the ears down about an inch (can't recall the exact drop). A couple of gussets were welded on as well and also cut off those integrated loops that would have been the tow hook replacements.
The factory tow hooks come with a flanged rubber bushing that has a removable metal inner bushing which I removed. I then cut off one of the rubber flanges.
I found a 23/32" OD, 0.508" ID, 1" long galvanized spacer to replace the longer metal bushing I removed. When the hooks are reinstalled, the rubber bushing's flanged side remains between the tow hook and frame which maintains the original spacing. The hitch is then bolted to the tow hook - the original factory bolts are more than long enough to take up the additional hitch ear thickness.
The hitch's rear bolts need to be installed per the instructions, real simple with a step drill and the hardware they supply. I did not trim the front fascia. Only thing now (of course) is the clearance is reduced. It is actually pretty easy to put on/off, the only issue the weight and awkwardness aligning it. For now I leave it off unless I have a trip planned.
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