Front Wheel Bearing Removal

[NETim]

Wow, even after you called it a %&*((%$#$#^& and a %^&&%#()&!?
IMHO, that should have done it. My 03 has 350k and I’ve never replaced any front end components, not even the shocks so I’m guessing mine won’t be very willing to come off either. I’ve just about got all the front end parts I need to replace, which is pretty much everything, but I plan on using the opposite approach to yours. Starting today, I will liberally spray all the, non-brake related parts with rust remover and a break free chemical as well as talk nicely to all the parts I want to change. I’m not in a rush to tackle this job so I’ll soften the truck up over the next week before breaking out the tools.

The Lisle tool saved my bacon. They are cheaper elsewhere.

 

[Marshall]

I have tried sweet talking to trucks and machinery over the years.
Most of them are deaf I think and you need a damn big hammer to get their attention.
I find if you pull the torch up , that they will get the hint and be nice, but with fords, just get a bigger hammer.

 

[Heath20242500]

I have tried sweet talking to trucks and machinery over the years.
Most of them are deaf I think and you need a damn big hammer to get their attention.
I find if you pull the torch up , that they will get the hint and be nice, but with fords, just get a bigger hammer.

As a mechanic I have bought several tools over the years. I have learned a few tricks also. Next time put a bolt back into the wheel bearing and put a long extension with socket on it and turn the wheel until the extension hits something solid, then apply more pressure when turning steering wheel and this usually starts moving the wheel bearing away from the knuckle. I usually do this on each side if at all possible so the bearing starts to come out evenly and you’re not hurting the knuckle. Then use pry bars to finish removing. Or if you have a slide hammer with the correct wheel stud spacing you can finish removing with that. But normally if the bearing starts to move it comes out simple. Clean the area up and I put a little grease on the bearing or spindle and then reassemble. The grease is a step ahead just in case bearing fails and I have to remove at a later date.

 

[jmc921]

I tried (key word "tried") to replace the left front bearing assembly since it was rumbling. I took everything apart, soaked with PB Blaster, banged and pried, nothing worked. Finally gave up (after many hours), put everything back together and took to my mechanic. He eneded up having to remove the entire spindle and use a rather large press and it still was tough to get out. Found a bad ball joint in the process as well!

Also, I asked whether the other bearing assembly should be done and his opinion was if it's not making noise, leave it for another time. He told me that usually, front bearing failures are the result of some sort of impact creating a tiny flat spot on the bearing and then, over time, this causes more wear until there is a quite audible rumble (that's what I had).

After he said that, I remembered that a couple of years earlier, I had hit a curb with the left front wheel and even had to have the alignment re-done. That, more than likely was the cause. Also, most of what you see on You Tube is guys who either live in a dry climate with no snow and salt or who pull the bearing first, reassemble and then film the take apart showing how "easy" it is. Thet's the trick that fooled me.

Glad everything seems to have worked out for you.

 

[Jeepwalker]

...After he said that, I remembered that a couple of years earlier, I had hit a curb with the left front wheel and even had to have the alignment re-done. That, more than likely was the cause.

Good info. That might have been what lead to your tk's ball joint wear/damage too (??).

 

[jmc921]

Good info. That might have been what lead to your tk's ball joint wear/damage too (??).

You're probably right.

 

[PA Ram]

You sure you got all 3 bolts out,lol. If so bolt the front tire back on,and use a piece of 4X4 propped between the frame and tire and then crank on the steering wheel,it should pop the hub out.

Glad I saw this, should have done my bearings when I did my cv axles,but didn't and sounds like my left bearing is a little noisy. Can only hear is on full lock low speed turns since exhaust drowns it out and shakedown has zero movement as of now. I'll take a whack with a hammer,but man this sounds like the way to go. Hopefully mine are rust welded onto my truck.

 

[EdGs]

Glad I saw this, should have done my bearings when I did my cv axles,but didn't and sounds like my left bearing is a little noisy. Can only hear is on full lock low speed turns since exhaust drowns it out and shakedown has zero movement as of now. I'll take a whack with a hammer,but man this sounds like the way to go. Hopefully mine are rust welded onto my truck.

If you have a 2wd, they are incredibly easy, definately use OE. RockAuto was $165 each vs. $270 at my local stealership but that was April of 2022.

My part was 68267298AD, now $194 and change. Not sure if yours is same part #.

Good luck. May you have a smooth repair.

 

[PA Ram]

If you have a 2wd, they are incredibly easy, definately use OE. RockAuto was $165 each vs. $270 at my local stealership but that was April of 2022.

My part was 68267298AD, now $194 and change. Not sure if yours is same part #.

Good luck. May you have a smooth repair.

I have 4x4, Rockauto has the OEM hubs for $194 and yes same part number for 2wd and 4wd. I was looking at aftermarket options,but I decided I was going OEM.

 

[EdGs]

I have 4x4, Rockauto has the OEM hubs for $194 and yes same part number for 2wd and 4wd. I was looking at aftermarket options,but I decided I was going OEM.

What mileage on your truck?

Mine had 140k when I did them.

Replace them both, too.

 

[PA Ram]

What mileage on your truck?

Mine had 140k when I did them.

Replace them both, too.

Yeah, already ordered both. Did both cv axles too even though only driver side had play. Should have done them when I had everything apart.

 

[DILLIGAF]

OEM parts are generally much better than even good aftermarket parts.

Not on Dodges How many edibles are you on, and can I try them

 

[stenerson]

I usually remove the steering knuckle with the hub and work on bench. On both my 2004 Ram and my 2018 my front hubs would need changing every 125K like clockwork.

 

[Jeepwalker]

With ever-increasing tire-size, it's about time Ram go back to the drawing board & beef up the wheel bearings to match. They ought to be able to design them to live 200k easy...

 

[62Blazer]

As a mechanic I have bought several tools over the years. I have learned a few tricks also. Next time put a bolt back into the wheel bearing and put a long extension with socket on it and turn the wheel until the extension hits something solid, then apply more pressure when turning steering wheel and this usually starts moving the wheel bearing away from the knuckle. I usually do this on each side if at all possible so the bearing starts to come out evenly and you’re not hurting the knuckle. Then use pry bars to finish removing. Or if you have a slide hammer with the correct wheel stud spacing you can finish removing with that. But normally if the bearing starts to move it comes out simple. Clean the area up and I put a little grease on the bearing or spindle and then reassemble. The grease is a step ahead just in case bearing fails and I have to remove at a later date.

Was going to suggest the same thing. I've used this trick a few times and always works well. Generally all you need is to just barely break it free and then it will come off with minimal effort. The good thing about the bolt trick is it makes sure the entire bearing assembly comes out. I have seen other vehicles where if you beat and pull just on the outer hub portion you wind up separating the assembly. You pull the outer hub face off but the inner part is still stuck in the knuckle.