Help a diesel dummy

[smokedoff]

I have a 2018 crew cab 4wd drw truck. It’s been in my company fleet since new. Has 200k on it now. I replaced it last year with a new truck and now I drive it a good bit. It’s a problem free truck so I’m not scared of the mileage.

I know little about tuners and programmers and such. This truck is stock expect for a delete. What’s the simple answer to getting the most safe power out of it? I don’t beat on stuff nor an I interested in all the smoke at the red light, but I do pull 16-20k with it regularly.

Anything to help without getting into headbolts and all that?

 

[mtnrider]

Honestly, anything above stock HP can be a risk. Given the weight you are towing I'm not sure I would run more the a 60 hp tune at most, in fact I would probably leave it on stock HP. Who did the tuning that is on it now?

.

 

[caulk04]

Firepunk

Firepunk

shop.firepunk.com

These guys can help you meet your goals.

 

[tjfdesmo]

If you are pulling heavy, I would leave it alone.

 

[Burla]

It's a fine balance turbo, DEF, DPF, and EGR cooler. Now you want to add more boost (air) and/or fuel to give more HP. You can do this very easily, you can gain 150hp easier then gaining 30hp in a gasser, but there is a cost in modern diesels that wasn't there is past diesels when adding 150hp was almost mandatory it was so easy and cheap and the only risk was to the HP fuel pump and injectors. Then of course you need the gauges to make sure you don't over heat. The cost could easily end up costing as much as a new diesel if you have an issue with the air system, one fault can take out the entire system turbo to tail pipe, and then you would have an old diesel with a flawed strategy with all the emissions and the same risk would apply still. I'd take a hard pass on it if it were me buddy, 2007.5 diesels changed forever and just got progressively worse.

Just get a cetane boost and avoid short trips would be the extent of what I would suggest, good luck with it.

 

[mtnrider]

It's a fine balance turbo, DEF, DPF, and EGR cooler. Now you want to add more boost (air) and/or fuel to give more HP. You can do this very easily, you can gain 150hp easier then gaining 30hp in a gasser, but there is a cost in modern diesels that wasn't there is past diesels when adding 150hp was almost mandatory it was so easy and cheap and the only risk was to the HP fuel pump and injectors. Then of course you need the gauges to make sure you don't over heat. The cost could easily end up costing as much as a new diesel if you have an issue with the air system, one fault can take out the entire system turbo to tail pipe, and then you would have an old diesel with a flawed strategy with all the emissions and the same risk would apply still. I'd take a hard pass on it if it were me buddy, 2007.5 diesels changed forever and just got progressively worse.

Just get a cetane boost and avoid short trips would be the extent of what I would suggest, good luck with it.

He's deleted so not a worry for him.

.

 

[06 Dodge]

Wow its always more power, guess some still want to race to the top of the hill pulling 20K. OP need to learn that the older trucks pulled that kind of weight with the old stock 5.9 Cummins that had less HP & TQ then his current truck and did so without missing a beat

 

[stevenP]

Most likely the motor wont blow if you mess with it, the trans will for sure. The engine can be re-tuned for additional power output, but the FCA transmissions arent bullet proof. Mine required replacement at 12.5k miles from towing in a stock form.

 

[HEMIMANN]

I wouldn't do any more than a Gale Banks "Stage 1" - open up the airflow a bit (got to be careful not to overheat the turbo) and add a pedal commander for a more responsive engine.

That's it.

 

[Daw14]

Have you considered just leaving the tune , for engine longevity.

Keep up with a frequent service schedule and drive what you have for another ten years without a monthly payment .

Invest a thousand dollars or so a year on keeping up the maintenance and changing worn parts.
I would rather due one or two payments worth of upgrades and maintenance then pay that payment and possibly have problems that might not get fixed in a timely manner.

Sometimes it’s better to keep the sloppy old ¥§€~£€ than get a new one with fresh problems .

 

[Ritchie_Rich]

Don’t waste your money on Banks stuff. You’re towing a good load so I would leave it stock hp for longevity.

 

[crash68]

the older trucks pulled that kind of weight with the old stock 5.9 Cummins that had less HP & TQ then his current truck and did so without missing a beat

Some of the original 5.9's left the factory with lower HP/torque numbers than the EcoDiesel

 

[smokedoff]

Thanks for all the replies. I do believe I’ll just leave it alone. I was just wondering if I was leaving anything on the table that I could gain without causing other issues.

 

[Andersoncma]

Pre-def 2011 Ram 2500 w 6.7 Cummins w 210K on it. I have a 2K lb slide in truck camper on it that makes 4 trips/yr from UT to NY and 6 trips/year from UT to TX. It has 68RFE trans but I did add an aux trans cooler to it, and even though the trans is automatic, I ALWAYS manually shift it to better control EGT’s and RPM’s.
Also has Mini Max tuner, Fleece Cheetah turbo, Banks intake/boost tubes, Firestone airbags, on-board air system, 46 gallon aux in bed fuel tank, Hellwig rear anti sway bar

 

[Andersoncma]

I have pre-def 2011 Ram 2500 w 6.7 Cummins. I have a 2K lb slide in truck camper on it that makes 4 trips/yr from UT to NY and 6 trips/year from UT to TX. It has 68RFE trans but I did add an aux trans cooler to it, and even though trans is automatic, I ALWAYS manually shift it to control EGT’s and RPM’s…..but all in all I have 100% confidence in driving this truck cross country many times/year. Mini Max tuner, Fleece Cheetah turbo, Banks intake/boost tubes,46 gallon aux in bed fuel tank, on board air system, Firestone airbags, Hellwig anti-sway on rear axle

 

[Trashy2121]

Most handheld tuners will defuel the engine if it starts to get hot on a long pull. I run a 180° thermostat and the tuner is set to pull fuel at 210°. You wont hurt the truck, just pick the tune that suits what you are doing. Cruising down the highway i put it on my +100 hp tune. She doesnt get hot and it gets great fuel economy. If im loaded or pulling, I dial it back to the +30hp tune. Also, Change the transmission fluid every 50k miles. Idk why guys never change fluid but complain about the 68rfe. I have 280k on my stock trans.

 

[Gear Jammer]

I've ran a 45hp tow tune on my truck with trans tunning since around 60k miles. At 160k I had to have the trans rebuilt, that cost $8k. I've never had any engine issues because of the tune, and I wouldn't think you would, but your trans isn't likely to live much longer if you add more power.

 

[smokedoff]

I’m at 200k and the transmission has never been touched, fluid or anything. Should I change it now?

 

[nlambert182]

If you install a tune to turn up power.. you'll blow up that trans. Almost 100% guaranteed. Stock HP tunes typically do fine.

If you've gone to 200k without changing it, might as well leave it alone at this point. Just my $.02.

 

[06 Dodge]

If you install a tune to turn up power.. you'll blow up that trans. Almost 100% guaranteed. Stock HP tunes typically do fine.

If you've gone to 200k without changing it, might as well leave it alone at this point. Just my $.02.

Have to agree leave it along at that milage without servicing it, this remands me of a local girl at the coffee shop who said she did not know she had to change the oil in her car engine, when I asked why she didn't do so, she said well my dad didn't tell me I had to change the oil on a regular intervals must say I was shocked as I thought all dada taught their girl's how to check oil and tires along with ya also need to read the owners manual...