Help, broke 2 transmission pan bolts

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autobotgears

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2012 5.7 6 speed auto
Was doing a solenoid and filters change (got the engine code and truck was in 4th gear limp mode). I bought a torque wrench specifically for this. As I was tightening everything back up to 20 nm, I felt the torque wrench let go (thought the wrench was bad at first).
Ended up 2 bolt heads came off.
The permatex gasket maker I bought said to "finger tighten bolts until silicone begins to squeeze out around flange. Let dry one hour then tighten to specified torque". I did this.
Took the pan off, cleaned all the rtv off.

Whats my next step? Bolts broke are countersunk. What if I used self centering drill bits and drilled them out?
Any recommendation on replacement bolts?
I'm in GTA Canada if that matters
Thanks
Trevor
 
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markabby

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how far down are the bolts? if they're flush, we used to weld a nut to them and unscrew them. The heat helped get them loose. You'll need a good welder tho.

drilling them out is a gamble especially by hand. center drill first if you can get dead center, then use small drill bits first and work your way up but NOT to the size of the bolt. Then, by some miracle, you migh get them out with an easy out or similar tool.

if you do mess the threads up, you can always use a helicoil.
 

mdc1990zr1

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2012 5.7 6 speed auto
Was doing a solenoid and filters change (got the engine code and truck was in 4th gear limp mode). I bought a torque wrench specifically for this. As I was tightening everything back up to 20 nm, I felt the torque wrench let go (thought the wrench was bad at first).
Ended up 2 bolt heads came off.
The permatex gasket maker I bought said to "finger tighten bolts until silicone begins to squeeze out around flange. Let dry one hour then tighten to specified torque". I did this.
Took the pan off, cleaned all the rtv off.

Whats my next step? Bolts broke are countersunk. What if I used self centering drill bits and drilled them out?
Any recommendation on replacement bolts?
I'm in GTA Canada if that matters
Thanks
Trevor
There are reverse bits out there to drill the broken bolts. Sometimes using just the reverse bit is enough to grab the broken bolt and start the reversing process. If not, you can bang the reverse insert in and continue to back it out.
 
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autobotgears

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I know why they broke, I overtorqued them. Youtube video told me 20 nm(14.74 ft lbs, 177 in lbs)
It supposed to be 12 nm(9 ft lbs, 105 in lbs)
I may need a new pan, when I hold a ruler to the pan, where the holes are they are raised up so that there is a gap between the holes, unless this is normal.
 

markabby

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I know why they broke, I overtorqued them. Youtube video told me 20 nm(14.74 ft lbs, 177 in lbs)
It supposed to be 12 nm(9 ft lbs, 105 in lbs)
I may need a new pan, when I hold a ruler to the pan, where the holes are they are raised up so that there is a gap between the holes, unless this is normal.

youtube videos are like seeing a doctor for something serious...always look at several of them because everyone has a different opinion.

better yet...consult a manual?
 

GeauxinUp

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I know why they broke, I overtorqued them. Youtube video told me 20 nm(14.74 ft lbs, 177 in lbs)
It supposed to be 12 nm(9 ft lbs, 105 in lbs)
I may need a new pan, when I hold a ruler to the pan, where the holes are they are raised up so that there is a gap between the holes, unless this is normal.
8-10 is what blauparts' guide says...I ASSUME they got their info from ZF.
1747311191616.png
 

Forsakentalon

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8-10 is what blauparts' guide says...I ASSUME they got their info from ZF.
View attachment 566453
He has a Chrysler 65rfe 6 speed in a 2012. No ZF information needed.

I had one in my 2012. Easy as could be to change the transmission fluid. Then twice it felt like I drove over a tree branch and it put itself in neutral. This happened about 5 months apart. I turned it off, restarted and it drove fine again.
 

GeauxinUp

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He has a Chrysler 65rfe 6 speed in a 2012. No ZF information needed.

I had one in my 2012. Easy as could be to change the transmission fluid. Then twice it felt like I drove over a tree branch and it put itself in neutral. This happened about 5 months apart. I turned it off, restarted and it drove fine again.
It's early and I'm a dummy...haha
Reading comprehension is critical sometimes ain't it! My bad
 

turkeybird56

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It's early and I'm a dummy...haha
Reading comprehension is critical sometimes ain't it! My bad

OP: If U R tackling a transmission fluid change, most regular PPL would be horrified. I got a 19 5th Gen with the HP 75, and I am well versed in backyard mechanics, not sure if I even want to screw with it or pay.

@GeauxinUp You are not a dummy, dang, do they even teach reading/proof reading any more. I have to always go back and proof read what I type, as when I went to school, they still used things called a typewriter and pen/pencil and paper. I learned typing the Hunt n Peck method.

POSTING FOR FYI for folks the URL below.

BELOW, URL for the type of adapter that I use. Just an example of many, I have a higher end adapter but wanted to find something people can look at.

 
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autobotgears

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This is beyond my capacity, bolt extractor didn't work, reverse drill bits didn't work, one of the bolts is just about drilled away, but the hole will need to be re-threaded (I've never done this before). The other broken bolt I haven't really touched.
I'm a bus driver, I'm going to ask the mechanics at work if they'd want to come fix it. I'd pay them of course. Failing that, anyone near Ajax Ontario know how to fix this?
Think I will order an aftermarket pan with a drain plug, any suggestions?
Also still need new bolts, I'm not using the ones that i over torqued.
Truck is in the garage on ramps.

Thank you guys for all the suggestions/help
Trevor
 
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turkeybird56

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Tranny pan. PPE brand wat most folks use if they go aftermarket.

Op: U might have to get truck somewhere to get bolts out. Heck have them do the different pan and install while at it if beyond yer ability.
 

Marshall

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torque wrench, what a novel idea, :rolleyes:
I trust my wrist more for this type of thing, had a 1/4" snap on wrench, Son loves it in BC.
But back to the bolts, I have a couple sets of reverse drills and extractors, and it sound like a good idea, BUT never seem to work.
A Snap On set is the only easy outs that I ever had any luck with they where a straight splined harden steel shaft with a attached sliding nut on each one.
I never ever seen a tapered screw in type work either , unless it was large stud that would not swell when screwing those losers in.

Ever try drilling out a broken tap or easy out, I heard its possible,
likely a Liberal said it.
 
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LouM

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I have had good luck with left handed drill bits often over the years. If I can't get a welder into to weld a nut on.
Those torque wrench adapters are too high of a scale.
1747349893425.png
 

Marshall

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The 1/4” snap on was about the size of a standard 3/8 ratchet, 2 fingers would run it.
I mainly used it when working on motorcycles back in last century, but not very often.
I seem to remember 15 inch pounds on case bolts on 1

The Japanese love Philips fasteners
With soft heads, a hammer and chisel usally fixed it.
 

markabby

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This is beyond my capacity, bolt extractor didn't work, reverse drill bits didn't work, one of the bolts is just about drilled away, but the hole will need to be re-threaded (I've never done this before). The other broken bolt I haven't really touched.
I'm a bus driver, I'm going to ask the mechanics at work if they'd want to come fix it. I'd pay them of course. Failing that, anyone near Ajax Ontario know how to fix this?
Think I will order an aftermarket pan with a drain plug, any suggestions?
Also still need new bolts, I'm not using the ones that i over torqued.
Truck is in the garage on ramps.

Thank you guys for all the suggestions/help
Trevor
yea, i kinda figured you'd have a hard time drilling the bolts because not only are they case hardened, but, you'd be upside down trying to get a drill bit centered.

I suggest getting a heli coil set for the original bolt threads and going that route. If working upside down be as sure as you can be that your drill is straight with the hole. Messing that up could be costly.

Post back and let us know how you made out.
 
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autobotgears

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Yeah, I'm not going to attempt this myself, I don't want to make it worse.
The exhaust may have to be unhooked so you can get a drill straight.
Looking for a mobile mechanic.
Maybe I can get CAA, wait a few days and have it towed to a shop?

Or button it back up and drive it to a shop. I know it'll leak a bit. Would they be able to reuse my new fluid if they catch it in a clean tray?
 
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