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But the camber is positive and the wear is what it is. Maybe it is the combo positive camber plus toe, dunno. Whatever is knocking the toe out and making camber positive needs to be fixed.

Yeah, but maybe when the truck is turning with all the weight and the toe being the way it is, it's making more contact on the inside thus wearing the inside out? ..... Another way to tell is getting a level and setting it up against the outside of the wheels to see if how level it is ... then raise the front up and check to see how level it is when the tires come off the ground ....
 
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Another thing to look at is the tire selection ... Federal Couragia MTs wear out very quickly ... especially if you are daily driving it expect to see them start to wear significantly at around 15k-20K miles ... and this is another tire that has also had problems with out of round straight from the manufacturer ... that can definitely cause inner tread wear
 

Burla

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Another thing to do right this minute is have them turn the front tires, as in take the skins off rims and rotate them so that wear scar is on outside at a tire shop, that will at least double the life. Most places charge like 16 bucks per tire for that. Might have white labels out if those tires have white labels, in which case you should do all 4.
 

ram1500rsm

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If this the latest more current alignment?
It doesn't make sense the tires were eating on the inside. With that much toe in and camber your tires should be showing that wear from the outside. Instead they showing wear of too much toe out and neg camber.

Easiest way to check rigth now.
Make sure your steering wheel is centered.
Measure the distance from say the center of your front driver tire to the center of your front passenger tire.

Do the same from behind the front tires.
The front measurement should be slightly smaller. You're looking for 1/16 to 1/4" smaller in the front. Toe in. If the distance behind the fronts is bigger then you're toe out.

Too much toe out will wear the inside of the tires. Mate that with a little much neg camber and you'll have a tire that wears on the inside like yours is showing. That's why the print out doesn't make sense.

Your tierods or lca bushings could be messed up but you should feel than in your steering. Lift the front wheels and check everything is tigth and that there is no play in the bushings.
 

VelocityC6Z

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His tire, the Federal Couragia in 37x12.5x20 is an E-rated tire. With 3750 max load at 65 psi.

37X12.50R20LT

25 psi 1930
30 psi 2225
35 psi 2470
40 psi 2705
45 psi 2925
50 psi 3085 (D) 120
55 psi 3335
60 psi 3525
65 psi 3750 (E) 126

The average front curb weight is 2765, and average rear curb weight is 2252. I don't believe you should be dividing that number per tire, but this places your front tires between 35 and 40 psi, and your rear tires between 35 and 30 psi.

Now take into account the cold and hot tire pressures, where they typically increase on 37's by 5 psi when hot. I would keep the psi on the rears at 30 psi, and the fronts at 35 psi cold, so when they heat up, they're in range.

This is exactly what I'm doing with my 37's, not the exact pressure because my are D rated and on 17" wheels, but I follow the same charts to start with. Then I do a chalk test, and it's usually spot on.

When you're driving a heavy duty truck, with more weight, then you'll inflate to a higher psi to accommodate for the increased curb weight... or if you're towing in the rear for the increased tongue weight. However, these tire inflation charts from the manufacturers have never steered me wrong.

I would say if you're inflated to 40+ and when your tires heat up, you're psi is probably bumping the 45 psi and higher, and is over inflated. There's also a tire load carrying capacity number that speaks to very specific psi. That would suggest on a 120 load index that the psi should be 36 psi for the front and 29 psi for the rear, but again a chalk test would be a good indicator.
 

VelocityC6Z

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Keep in mind, if you have TPMS sensors, they won't like the rear at that level... and something like AlfaOBD could be used to adjust this so your TPMS sensors aren't sending alerts to you that your tires are underinflated. I still need to do this on mine, there are lots of resources on this forum on how to adjust that.

Also, i'm not disputing that your alignment is incorrect, that's possible... I don't claim to be an expert in that department, or the tire psi department, but i have read a lot on the tire psi and i did sleep in a motel 6 last night.

I have been able to solve all my wear problems by following the tire inflation chart and rotating with each oil change though.
 

Burla

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Keep in mind, if you have TPMS sensors, they won't like the rear at that level... and something like AlfaOBD could be used to adjust this so your TPMS sensors aren't sending alerts to you that your tires are underinflated. I still need to do this on mine, there are lots of resources on this forum on how to adjust that.

Also, i'm not disputing that your alignment is incorrect, that's possible... I don't claim to be an expert in that department, or the tire psi department, but i have read a lot on the tire psi and i did sleep in a motel 6 last night.

I have been able to solve all my wear problems by following the tire inflation chart and rotating with each oil change though.

do you know if you can use alfa to turn off tpms?
 

VelocityC6Z

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Pretty sure I read that you can. I'll find out soon and can let ya know.

I also heard people having success with JScan turning it off, but it didn't work for me. There's also some specific way you're supposed to do it with JScan that I probably didn't do correct?
 

EvilTwin v2

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I went through the same problem and process. I’m willing to bet that this is a problem with the steering knuckles, and ackerman. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry)
The alignment is fine when straight, but when you take a turn, the sharper the turn, the further it’s pushing the toe out, thus causing it to drag the inside of the inside front tire. Do you ever get any weird handling issues when going fast through a turn or hitting a bump at speeds in a turn?

I finally called Rough Country, and they had me check which knuckles I had. They then sent me a different set of front knuckles. Installed, aligned, and fine. Before that, I went through a set of front tires in 2000 miles.

Unfortunately, I’ve since taken the 6” lift down to a 4”, and I’m right back to fighting the same thing again. I’m considering either going back to the 6” lift (which would cost nothing but another alignment) or trashing the Rough Country Kit and going with something like a BDS.
 

EvilTwin v2

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Take a picture of the top of your steering knuckles and I’ll tell you if you have the culprit knuckles.
 
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