HELP!!!

[Austinbeck0426]

2013 Ram 1500, 5.7.

-When driving, doors will not lock automatically.
-Will not lock with keyfob, but lights will flash and horn will honk as if it locked.
-Will not unlock with keyfob if doors are locked manually.
-Will not lock or unlock using door buttons on both driver and passenger side doors.
-Scanned the door modules will scanner, both modules are good.
-Checked fuses, all good.
-Checked wiring, all good.
-Under the dash on the driver side, you can hear clicking, which has always been normal, pcm engagement. Still hear the clicking when using the fob or door buttons, but none of the locks react.
-All windows and mirrors still work off the driver side control panel.
Based on every forum I’ve read, I’ve checked everything suggested, and still haven’t found a solution.

HELP.

 

[Tulecreeper]

Your modules may be 'reading' good, but in reality might be weak voltage coming from them. Not sure how to test that. This is why I got manual everything.

 

[markabby]

Key Fob battery?

 

[RamDiver]

2013 Ram 1500, 5.7.

-When driving, doors will not lock automatically.
-Will not lock with keyfob, but lights will flash and horn will honk as if it locked.
-Will not unlock with keyfob if doors are locked manually.
-Will not lock or unlock using door buttons on both driver and passenger side doors.
-Scanned the door modules will scanner, both modules are good.
-Checked fuses, all good.
-Checked wiring, all good.
-Under the dash on the driver side, you can hear clicking, which has always been normal, pcm engagement. Still hear the clicking when using the fob or door buttons, but none of the locks react.
-All windows and mirrors still work off the driver side control panel.
Based on every forum I’ve read, I’ve checked everything suggested, and still haven’t found a solution.

HELP.

That sounds like the BCM is not reachable.

Have you scanned the OBD2 port for any DTCs?

The easiest first step would be disconnecting the negative battery lead and turning the headlights on to discharge the line.

Wait at least 90 minutes before reconnecting the battery.

.

 

[Marshall]

2 or 3 times with my 2014, the fob will not do anything, and the outside door handle ( the touchless Type) will not open the doors, But the little key would unlock, and if you pushed the start button with the fob, the truck would start, but not with just your finger.
It would always work next time, and changing battery in fob did not help.

One time I had left the key at home with the other keys when this happened, when I run up town for milk, had to phone wife to bring her fob with the key.
Her fob would not work eather, so its' the receiver buggered, behind the rear seat I think.
I have never worked on it as it seems to be OK, Just make sure to keep the key in the fob.
When this happened the alarm would go when you unlocked the door, but I think that normal.

BUT if your doors don't lock, maybe totally different problem?????????????? Good luck.

 

[Austinbeck0426]

That sounds like the BCM is not reachable.

Have you scanned the OBD2 port for any DTCs?

The easiest first step would be disconnecting the negative battery lead and turning the headlights on to discharge the line.

Wait at least 90 minutes before reconnecting the battery.

.

Scanned the obd2 and all modules. No dtcs came back for the PCM. I watched as it scanned passenger and driver door lock modules, again, no dtcs.

 

[Austinbeck0426]

Key Fob battery?

No, works fine. Lock and unlock and panic. All fine. Starts the truck fine.

 

[Sherman Bird]

2013 Ram 1500, 5.7.

-When driving, doors will not lock automatically.
-Will not lock with keyfob, but lights will flash and horn will honk as if it locked.
-Will not unlock with keyfob if doors are locked manually.
-Will not lock or unlock using door buttons on both driver and passenger side doors.
-Scanned the door modules will scanner, both modules are good.
-Checked fuses, all good.
-Checked wiring, all good.
-Under the dash on the driver side, you can hear clicking, which has always been normal, pcm engagement. Still hear the clicking when using the fob or door buttons, but none of the locks react.
-All windows and mirrors still work off the driver side control panel.
Based on every forum I’ve read, I’ve checked everything suggested, and still haven’t found a solution.

HELP.

CAN/BUS needs to be evaluated and eliminated as a possible issue. MANY folks overlook this.

 

[Austinbeck0426]

CAN/BUS needs to be evaluated and eliminated as a possible issue. MANY folks overlook this.

Can you elaborate please

 

[Sherman Bird]

I'm NOT there. I am not privvy to your truck's scanner data, the back story and the narrative, so I am only indicating that there is another legitimate path to be explored, which I've seen no mention of.

As I said, CAN/BUS NEEDS to be evaluated and eliminated as a possible culprit.

"Scanned the OBD2... and all modules"? That fails to address if you went into mode 6, and the body control module's role in this, in particular.

Get a digital storage oscilloscope with a LOT of capacity and super fast speed. Read the CAN/BUS pattern(s). Do a complete system network scan and find out if ischemic "U" codes pop up. Does your scanner require AutoAuth? If you aren't schooled on how to do these diagnostic steps, I'd recommend you get professional help!

Without that, you are using a candle in place of a spot light.

A real kick in the head would be that you replaced the vehicle battery and failed to register the new battery in the system. My next door neighbor replaced his battery on his 2019 Ram 1500 and didn't have the resources or the advanced scanner or knowledge of these facts and had functionality troubles and a check engine light illuminated. I went over, entered the vehicle diagnostics by way of AutoAuth with my scanner (I have to pay a yearly subscription for it), and calibrated (registered) the battery and got rid of half a dozen "U" codes and other phantom DTC's.

All normal functions returned and the check engine light went out.

 

[RamDiver]

I'm NOT there. I am not privvy to your truck's scanner data, the back story and the narrative, so I am only indicating that there is another legitimate path to be explored, which I've seen no mention of.

As I said, CAN/BUS NEEDS to be evaluated and eliminated as a possible culprit.

"Scanned the OBD2... and all modules"? That fails to address if you went into mode 6, and the body control module's role in this, in particular.

Get a digital storage oscilloscope with a LOT of capacity and super fast speed. Read the CAN/BUS pattern(s). Do a complete system network scan and find out if ischemic "U" codes pop up. Does your scanner require AutoAuth? If you aren't schooled on how to do these diagnostic steps, I'd recommend you get professional help!

Without that, you are using a candle in place of a spot light.

A real kick in the head would be that you replaced the vehicle battery and failed to register the new battery in the system. My next door neighbor replaced his battery on his 2019 Ram 1500 and didn't have the resources or the advanced scanner or knowledge of these facts and had functionality troubles and a check engine light illuminated. I went over, entered the vehicle diagnostics by way of AutoAuth with my scanner (I have to pay a yearly subscription for it), and calibrated (registered) the battery and got rid of half a dozen "U" codes and other phantom DTC's.

All normal functions returned and the check engine light went out.

I was eluding to a CAN/BUS issue when I suggested the BCM was unreachable.

While I must defer to your experience, I was suggesting a hard boot of the CAN/BUS modules as a preliminary test that any non-technical person might attempt.

Do you not see any value in this action?

I completely agree if the condition remains after a reset, find a trusted professional.

During my last visit to the stealership for routine OCI/warranty inspection, they also repaired the heated steering wheel.

It was necessary to disconnect the battery before changing out defective components and when I got the keys back, numerous CAN/BUS issues required another reset to restore communication to the BCM.

.

 

[Austinbeck0426]

Still having the issue. I appreciate all the comments so far, but nothing tested or suggested has fixed it. Still hear the PCM clicking under the dash, put it in drive, get up to 15-20mph pcm makes that ordinary clicking noise at the exact time the locks should automatically engage. Hit the door lock button on the driver or passenger side, hear the clicking again, none of the locks engage. Hit the keyfob lock button, hear the clicking, horn honks and lights flash, as if it was doing its job. However, same thing, locks will not engage. I have been locking all the doors manually, and unlocking the driver door with the key since this was posted.

 

[BossHogg]

I had a 2013 with the same problem almost, only my tailgate and driver's door would lock. Looking at the schematics I discovered the driver's door and tailgate were on a different BCM circuit than the other three doors. When I searched the Internet for a cause and solution I discovered others with the same problem, it was an internal issue in the BCM. The repair was replacing the BCM.

Internally, there is no feedback from the BCM's internal circuit suggesting the door lock signals are going out to the door modules, therefore, no DTCs. It is a difficult problem to diagnose. My dealer had a heck of a time finding the cause even though I showed them what I found on the Internet. They replaced door wiring, door handles on three doors and finally, replaced the BCM.

Fortunately, I had a Maxcare lifetime service contract, and the repair was made with a new BCM. You are not going to like this but the dealership's work order showed a total charge of $1,700.00 and change for the diagnostic, new BCM, installation, and reprogramming.

This may be the issue you are having.