How far would you feel comfortable traveling with this setup? (pictures)

[dhay13]

This Hitch is NOT a sway control hitch.. It is strictly a weight distribution hitch that keeps your tongue level with the truck, true sway control hitches actually use hydraulic cylinders to dampen sway.

What this hitch does is keep your trailer and truck level with each other, that is what those arms do, they act like a leaf spring between the truck and trailer--keeping it level.

The sway control effect comes into the picture by keeping BOTH the trailer axles loaded, that is to say when you have too much tongue weight, the trailer dips down lower in front, you remove weight off the rear trailer axle, that makes the trailer susceptible to the sway.

Single axle trailers are more prone to sway, due to being improperly loaded, wind ect. for the most part that is why travel trailers have two axles to reduce the effect of wind etc. They could easily put a single 10,000 pound axle under them, for the most part it would be cheaper, but then you would not have the pulling control, two axles are more stable.

So you see, that is why its called a weight distribution hitch, sway control is just a benefit.

Actually it does provide sway control but it is done through friction and not dampening. The flat part of the bar sits on the L shaped bracket and friction helps keep everything from moving too easily.

 

[ramffml]

This Hitch is NOT a sway control hitch.. It is strictly a weight distribution hitch that keeps your tongue level with the truck, true sway control hitches actually use hydraulic cylinders to dampen sway.

What this hitch does is keep your trailer and truck level with each other, that is what those arms do, they act like a leaf spring between the truck and trailer--keeping it level.

The sway control effect comes into the picture by keeping BOTH the trailer axles loaded, that is to say when you have too much tongue weight, the trailer dips down lower in front, you remove weight off the rear trailer axle, that makes the trailer susceptible to the sway.

Single axle trailers are more prone to sway, due to being improperly loaded, wind ect. for the most part that is why travel trailers have two axles to reduce the effect of wind etc. They could easily put a single 10,000 pound axle under them, for the most part it would be cheaper, but then you would not have the pulling control, two axles are more stable.

So you see, that is why its called a weight distribution hitch, sway control is just a benefit.

The Husky Centerline is also a sway control hitch. The bars rub on the brackets which provides friction.

 

[Cmsharp]

I have done a lot of towing with my 2016 1500 3.21, mostly boats and a couple of smaller campers. Your motor will tow well, but crosswinds and long downgrades can be tough. I wouldn’t mess with a gear change. Way too much trouble and expense for not much benefit. I would definitely check the specs on the camper tires though. Usually they’re cheapo 4 ply’s with a speed rating of 65 that love to blow on long trips.

 

[RaptorHD]

Yeah, actually go to the website, the hitch is a weight distribution hitch..The friction as you put it does not control sway, the fact that the trailer is level and all wheels contact the pavement provide control as well as keeping the vehicle level, the more you squat with weight the more you are unable to steer properly..its all very elemental really you can look it up on the manufacturers website..

 

[dhay13]

Yeah, actually go to the website, the hitch is a weight distribution hitch..The friction as you put it does not control sway, the fact that the trailer is level and all wheels contact the pavement provide control as well as keeping the vehicle level, the more you squat with weight the more you are unable to steer properly..its all very elemental really you can look it up on the manufacturers website..

That link I posted was from the manufacturers site and it clearly says 'Provides Sway Control' and 'Provides Weight Distribution and Sway Control in a single unit'. Overall it says it provides sway control about 4 times in that screenshot I posted. And trust me, there is no sway towing it. Even when I towed it 400 miles with my 1500 it only swayed when being passed by a semi going way faster than me.

 

[ramffml]

Yeah, actually go to the website, the hitch is a weight distribution hitch..The friction as you put it does not control sway, the fact that the trailer is level and all wheels contact the pavement provide control as well as keeping the vehicle level, the more you squat with weight the more you are unable to steer properly..its all very elemental really you can look it up on the manufacturers website..

You didn't watch the video, did you? You feel content to just bang on about something that is clearly incorrect and contradicted by the manufacturer themselves?

It's a WDH that has sway control built in.

 

[Adam E]

I think it cost me $5 more for a bigger capacity. The 32217 is 600-800 range, the 32218 is 800-1200 range. My logic was bigger is better/overkill, but for $5 might as well. Unless you MUST fall within the range, then my logic was flawed! Any harm with what I got?

I have the same mind set as you for $5 why not go a little bigger!

I've "read", no real world experience, that if you go with a WFD of a higher capacity, than is needed, that you'll get a rougher ride than if you get one that's rated for your hitch weight.

I guess I should ask. How was the ride?

Also what did you pay for the WFD and where did you get it?
The best price I've found for the 32217 is $329.99 and 32218 $334.99

 

[breal201999]

I have the same mind set as you for $5 why not go a little bigger!
...
I guess I should ask. How was the ride?

I can’t say I have any other experience to compare to, but I didn’t think it was bad. I do know it was better than the time I pulled it home without the distribution hitch and without trailer brakes!

Also what did you pay for the WFD and where did you get it?
The best price I've found for the 32217 is $329.99 and 32218 $334.99

Of course I would have overpaid! I got it on Amazon I think for $370ish

 

[Adam E]

@breal201999 Thanks again for the info. I know you came here looking for answers though now that you have a trip under your belt thanks for helping me as well.

I contacted Dutchman and confirmed the hitch weight is calculated at the dry weight.
So if you keep the same hitch weight % of 12.5% once you surpass 6400lbs or 1724 lbs of fluid and other cargo you'd be at 800 lb hitch weight.

Based on these numbers I think you made the right decision by going with the 32218.
I am going to pick up the same one because many of the reviews I have read on this ANTI-SWAY weight distribution hitch are very good.

...and if you're still within the return window Autozone has the 32218 for $334.99.

 

[breal201999]

Also what did you pay for the WFD and where did you get it?
The best price I've found for the 32217 is $329.99 and 32218 $334.99

@breal201999 Thanks again for the info. I know you came here looking for answers though now that you have a trip under your belt thanks for helping me as well.

I contacted Dutchman and confirmed the hitch weight is calculated at the dry weight.
So if you keep the same hitch weight % of 12.5% once you surpass 6400lbs or 1724 lbs of fluid and other cargo you'd be at 800 lb hitch weight.

Based on these numbers I think you made the right decision by going with the 32218.
I am going to pick up the same one because many of the reviews I have read on this ANTI-SWAY weight distribution hitch are very good.

...and if you're still within the return window Autozone has the 32218 for $334.99.

Sounds good and glad I could help!
I think for the money saved, it would be more of a pain to return as heavy as this setup is than it would be worth to return, but thanks anyway .

 

[FrankInMO]

I am amazed how easy it is for some to drop 40-50k or finance for a decent used 2500. I make nearly 6 figures a year, and still can’t bring myself to spend that on any vehicle and go in debt. If I had the cash, the decision would probably be easier. But it’s not a decision I take lightly... like what color shirt to buy that matches my shoes.

I used to have a similar opinion but it's not neccessarily in your best interests. You have to consider equity and cost of owner and was also mentioned timing if you have kids.

20 years ago if I bought a $30k truck and used it heavily, in 6 years its worth say $12k. That's $3k of depreciation a year I am consuming. Today, buy a $60k truck that is better designed and in 6 years its worth $36k. That's $4k per year. It's not really twice as expensive, inflation adjusted its pretty similar, but you do have some cash ******* in it.

Then you've got interest. If I'm getting 6% in a bad year on my investment account and I'm financing for 4% I will take their cheap money all day long rather than lose out on that income. If you aren't getting low interest rate offers because you have nothing down or bad credit then you should be taking care of that before buying an expensive truck.

And of course with today's vehicles lasting longer if you're paying them off in 6 or so years you've got a pile of equity on the next truck so you aren't dropping as much as you think.

I drove beaters for years thinking it was a good deal - its not. Repairs, less efficiency, etc. are hidden costs you don't notice. Why drive a beater when you can spend a little extra on something nice and reliable? Just don't overspend simply because it's financed.

 

[Polecat]

I have a temp gun and still only use my hand to check the hubs - at every stop as well as chains and just a general walk around.
I only tow a boat, granted 1400 miles one way, but with a boat trailer bearing failure is much more prevalent.

I wouldn't hesitate to go to yellowstone with your setup, but would be prepared to stop if a high wind day - esp. directly from the north or south. Depending on your route, there might not be any real big mountain passes to go over - I 80 will have one long incline but it is gentle but long. Entering yellowstone, I probably wouldn't rec. the east or north east entrances - both have big passes to go over. Beautiful but not something I would want to tow.

Not sure why people get hung up on the gear ratio, it just isn't as important with the 8 speed as it was in years gone by. The ratio is more for starting than after you are moving and the 8 speed trans is perfect for starting out from a stop.

The one thing I do find very useful when traveling across country is a fuel price map.
I use
http://www.ohiogasprices.com/Price_By_County.aspx
It works nationwide, just zoom in. Fuel prices can vary wildly and you can save some decent money by planning the fuel stops.

One thing I noticed using my temp gun is the side of the trailer in the sun was always warmer than the hubs in the shade. I know common sense, but not all temp differences mean there is an issue.

 

[tron67j]

I am amazed how easy it is for some to drop 40-50k or finance for a decent used 2500. I make nearly 6 figures a year, and still can’t bring myself to spend that on any vehicle and go in debt. If I had the cash, the decision would probably be easier. But it’s not a decision I take lightly... like what color shirt to buy that matches my shoes.

I agree that much money is a lot to spend on something that will depreciate so fast but to each their own. I bought a 2003 2500 and ran it without much problem until I bought my new 2018 2500 last October. Now my parents drive it, and it runs and looks amazing. I bought my new, new one for a bit under $35k tax included, 8' bed 4x4 CC with a number of packages. Didn't need a lot of extras that just add to the list of things to eventually fix. Added some mods like UAS 8.4 for thousands less than from factory. Personally don't need things like electric seats I had it on last one and never touched switch in 16+ years. Loved my last truck, totally enjoy my new one, and it is worth more now than I paid last year. Plan in keeping this one for at least 15 years, so about $2k a year is not bad.

 

[Goose55]

I am amazed how easy it is for some to drop 40-50k or finance for a decent used 2500. I make nearly 6 figures a year, and still can’t bring myself to spend that on any vehicle and go in debt. If I had the cash, the decision would probably be easier. But it’s not a decision I take lightly... like what color shirt to buy that matches my shoes.

I paid a lot more than that last January for a new 2019 3500 Laramie High Output Cummins 6.7L Duelly, with the Aisin 6 speed auto trans. But I had a sizable down payment and the truck was a year end clearance that was discounted $10K. And I was able to work an even better deal with my good credit rating, and with 36 months 0% interest financing. Sure, I have a lot of dough going out each month but with a short term no interest loan, every month it's chop, chop, chop. Its really surprising to see the balance due go down so quickly.

And there is the fact that the 2019 Ram had a total make over for 2019. The '19 will appear the same as the 2020s and 2021s. Also, Cummins re-engineered the 6.7 for 2019. The new, High Output Cummins 6.7L Duelly, with the Aisin 6 speed auto trans is a hot, highly desired item. The rig will hold it's value well.

 

[breal201999]

I used to have a similar opinion but it's not neccessarily in your best interests...

I paid a lot more than that last January for a new 2019 3500 Laramie High Output Cummins 6.7L Duelly...

I agree that much money is a lot to spend on something that will depreciate so fast but to each their own. I bought a 2003 2500 and ran it without much problem until I bought my new 2018 2500 last October...

Right, and I get what you guys are saying. I'm a numbers guy . I've got a credit score of 830, and income isn't a problem. The biggest thing is I've proven to myself (at least for short distances) the 1500 is more than capable of pulling what I have. Granted, a 2500 or 3500 would be so much better for trips across country. IF we get to do a cross country trip, that would be AT MOST one trip a year. Maybe 4 - 6 trips a year camping in the local area within 200 miles (just a huge guess, with only having had this camper 3 weeks!). So... for that IF once a year trip... buying a 2500 or 3500 would be quite expensive. I've taken good care of the 2016 1500 we have, and got it pretty loaded Big Horn, minus leather.
Plus... for a family of 4 with only 2 drivers, I already have 3 cars! 2016 Ram, 2013 Mustang GT loaded with leather and heated seats, and my beater 2005 Pontiac G6 (we bought new). The G6 I dropped a 2x4 across the hood getting some lumber out of the attic and just shrugged So... only way to buy another truck would be to sell the G6 (which isn't worth anything, but drives just fine)... and sell my Mustang... which I DON'T really want to do!

 

[Tunaman]

Right, and I get what you guys are saying. I'm a numbers guy . I've got a credit score of 830, and income isn't a problem. The biggest thing is I've proven to myself (at least for short distances) the 1500 is more than capable of pulling what I have. Granted, a 2500 or 3500 would be so much better for trips across country. IF we get to do a cross country trip, that would be AT MOST one trip a year. Maybe 4 - 6 trips a year camping in the local area within 200 miles (just a huge guess, with only having had this camper 3 weeks!). So... for that IF once a year trip... buying a 2500 or 3500 would be quite expensive. I've taken good care of the 2016 1500 we have, and got it pretty loaded Big Horn, minus leather.
Plus... for a family of 4 with only 2 drivers, I already have 3 cars! 2016 Ram, 2013 Mustang GT loaded with leather and heated seats, and my beater 2005 Pontiac G6 (we bought new). The G6 I dropped a 2x4 across the hood getting some lumber out of the attic and just shrugged So... only way to buy another truck would be to sell the G6 (which isn't worth anything, but drives just fine)... and sell my Mustang... which I DON'T really want to do!

Buddy you are right on!! That 1500 is more than ample for the camper you're towing. I tow a camper approx 1500 lbs or a little more heavier than yours with my 2018 1500, 5.7. Plenty of power and then some, braking is fine with the trailer brake control set properly. Sway??? its all in load distribution. Still fine tuning the load leveler hitch. I did have rear air bags installed. Started out with 60lbs of air, every time I lat air out the trailer swayed less! next time I'm not putting any air in them simple going to balance it out with the load leveler. The land leveler distributes the weight to the front of the truck properly if its set up right.
Sorry, and I get bashed in the butt every time I say it but half these guys simply find whatever excuse they can to go to the 2500 or 3500, then most add a lift kit and wheels and tires so they stick out 4-5" beyond the body and get their rocks off!! LOL Hey whatever lights their candles!! Myself I'm going 2500 because i convinced the wife I need it, when it will do better but it's excuse to get 4 wheel drive!! Hey, like I said...whatever lights your fire. But again, like I said, your truck is plenty ample for what you're doing.
Now I'll sit back and take my beating like a man!!!!

 

[breal201999]

Buddy you are right on!! ...

Now I'll sit back and take my beating like a man!!!!

 

[TC Retired]

Once again -- AMEN to that...

I just worked on a 2016 w/108k on that the shift pin inside the tranny broke off. VERY CHEAP design. But when the tranny is designed for a car and they use it in a 2500n--nwhat is to be expected...

 

[breal201999]

Oh, and might I add... this is the most popular thread I have ever started!!! Including FaceSpace, Twit'er, and any forum

 

[lobo]

I am amazed how easy it is for some to drop 40-50k or finance for a decent used 2500. I make nearly 6 figures a year, and still can’t bring myself to spend that on any vehicle and go in debt. If I had the cash, the decision would probably be easier. But it’s not a decision I take lightly... like what color shirt to buy that matches my shoes.

Have to agree! I have the cash to buy but I just keep driving my old 97' Ram lol.......