How To: Add Factory Keyless Enter N Go

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HTXRamExp

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Not sure if this was already asked but how do you remove the terminals from the C2 connecter. I messed up a little while building the harness.

Not sure what your time frame is but they actually make pin removal tools. You can get them on Amazon and Ebay pretty cheap. You can also try using any small pic tools you have or a small micro screwdriver or paperclip to press the tab down.

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I used a safety pin to unseat a couple terminals that I needed to remove.

It wasn’t straight forward, a lot of trial and error, wiggling it around trying to get just the right pressure/contact to allow the pin to slide out.


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TylerC

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Hey Jimmy,

So i am trying to get this done, i enable all the alpha stuff as described, when i go to to the programming it says ( Failed. Requested procedure not supported by the unit)

Does that mean the RF Hub or the Key? Im not entirely sure here.

As well it says - if rf hub not programmed use O-0-0-0 for programming the fobs. I used my pin , could that be the issue? I was going to try the 0000 but im a bit scared to brick something

Hoping you can help :)


Now we’re going to install the hub, rear antenna, harness, front antenna, and the ignition, but first use the alfa software to enable all the keyless enter n go features. This will give the BCM time to take the settings. Connect to the BCM. Click on the little car with the hood open. Go into car configuration change. Find keyless go, passive entry, fobik safe enable, and passive entry CSM, and enable them all. This will NOT affect the driveability of the truck even while using your original rf hub and fobs.

Remove the rear seat and the back wall carpet/insulation. I won’t get into how to do this as it’s pretty straight forward.

Your RF Hub will be on the back wall towards the driver side. Remove it from the wall, install the new hub in it’s place, plug in the existing connectors from the old hub, and plug in the new harness to the left side of the hub.

Mount the rear wall antenna using two 1/2” self tapping screws, and plug it’s connector in from the harness. 8ZCAtz9.jpg

Remove the kick panel under the steering column by removing the two screws on the bottom edge of the panel. This it the panel that holds the obdII port and covers the ignition switch. The panel is still secured by 3 clips on each side. Pull the panel straight off. Remove the 4 screws holding the ignition switch down and install the new one. Reinstall the kick panel.

Pull the front and rear driver side plastic sill panels. No tools required. UsXS89p.jpg

Pull the lower B-pillar panel. Run the front antenna wire with connector along the driver side under the exposed carpet edge all the way up front, and bring it around under the footwell carpet to underneath the center stack/console area. Plug in the antenna and mount it somewhere up front center where it is concealed.

Now we’re ready to program the new fob and hub. Close the driver door and open it to wake up the bus. Confirm that the BCM took the settings from earlier, as the EVIC should display press brake + start button. Fire up the alfa and connect to the RF Hub. Set the new fob on the center console lid. Click the car with hood open and select “program ignition fobiks highline system”. Enter your PIN and follow the prompts. Once that is complete, and still connected to the hub, go to “RF Hub reset/replace”. This time, for PIN, enter 0000 and hit start. When the procedure is complete, step on the brake and start the truck. It will probably die after a few seconds, and you’ll have TPMS warnings. Now put the truck in run (engine off), still connected to RF Hub, click on the little engine then read and clear faults. Perform RF Hub replace again. Start the truck again and it should stay running now, but, you will have lost your TPMS sensors. Start driving around for a while to see if the sensors will pick up. If they don’t, pull over, connect to the RF Hub, go to “sensor rolls test”, hit start, and start driving again. They should immediately register now. Park the truck and clear faults again, and you’re done. Now you have push button start. You can do the door handles and antennas later.
 
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BarDown

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Hey Jimmy,

So i am trying to get this done, i enable all the alpha stuff as described, when i go to to the programming it says ( Failed. Requested procedure not supported by the unit)

Does that mean the RF Hub or the Key? Im not entirely sure here.

As well it says - if rf hub not programmed use O-0-0-0 for programming the fobs. I used my pin , could that be the issue? I was going to try the 0000 but im a bit scared to brick something

Hoping you can help :)

I’m having the same issue. Anyone know where to go from here?


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skuppy069

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Are you able to do a rf hub reset using your old hub and pin ?
If not then there might be a bug in the software
 

skuppy069

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In the alpha thread there is a spot where you can get older versions of alpha on the first page of the thread
Maybe try download like two versions older and see if it works
 

BarDown

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In the alpha thread there is a spot where you can get older versions of alpha on the first page of the thread
Maybe try download like two versions older and see if it works

So I just got it to work, before I was using the “program Ignition fobiks highline system” to program the keys as it says in the instructions and it wasn’t working. This time I used “program ignition fobiks” and it worked. I’m not sure of the difference between the two. Thanks for the help tho!


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jlh0324

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Is there a way to disable the chime when “key fob not detected” with it running? I normally keep the keys with me for passive entry, and leave truck running while I go in a store. When I open the door the chime is always going off and the message on the dash. I would hate to leave the wife or keys in the truck and the chime going off the whole time.


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HTXRamExp

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Has anyone ran into an issue of not being able to get the driver door wiring harness connector to lock back into the cab? Any suggestions, tips, or tricks?

I've tried to get it to lock in w/ the rubber boot on and with it off.
 

skuppy069

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I get the back side locked in first then use a large flat blade screwdriver to press where the release tabs are whilst pushing the connector in at the same time
Make sure to have the rubber boot on first
 

HTXRamExp

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I get the back side locked in first then use a large flat blade screwdriver to press where the release tabs are whilst pushing the connector in at the same time
Make sure to have the rubber boot on first

Will have to give it another go in the morning. At least there's ample room to work with the connector, otherwise this would be really annoying.../sarcasm lol


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skuppy069

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Will have to give it another go in the morning. At least there's ample room to work with the connector, otherwise this would be really annoying.../sarcasm lol


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Good luck
It should go on for you
 
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