How To: Add Factory Keyless Enter N Go

[DoughRat19]

Who has added passive entry to the rear doors? I’m thinking about upgrading those as well. I know earlier in the tread I read about buying a passenger side passive entry handle and taking it apart to use with the back drivers side. I’m just questioning why the passenger side? Can’t I do the same thing with another drivers side passive entry handle? Is there something I’m not thinking about? I don’t care about the hole for the lock cause I’ll be using the base from the handle that is already on the back door. I’m just confused why it was mentioned to use a passenger side handle and not the drivers side handle.

 

[deathbyburito]

Got my push to start installed. Great harness and instructions from @DoughRat19. Would have gone smoother if the first key I ordered worked. Got the "Amazon" key and that paired right away. Antennas are pinned into the door harness and installed. Wires are pinned in for handles. Just need to paint them and install.

 

[deathbyburito]

The codes are B25A9 and B25AA saying last test completed Positively Error intermittent. First one is for drivers door and the second is for the passenger. I cleared the codes. Did a rf hub reset via Alfaobd and also disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes to do a battery reset on the truck.. Handles worked again for about 5 to 7 minutes and then they stopped again.. Also note I did not open or close the doors. I left them in the same position to eliminate and wiring or short somewhere along the line. Totally confused at this point. Maybe a bad handle or two I guess..

I'm having this same issue after installing my handles. It's possible I got the handle wires crossed as I had to mess with them but I would assume the handles wouldn't work at all if wires were backwards.

 

[deathbyburito]

I'm having this same issue after installing my handles. It's possible I got the handle wires crossed as I had to mess with them but I would assume the handles wouldn't work at all if wires were backwards.

I found the source of the issue and everything is working great now. If you swap the passive handle part with the wires to a non-passive entry base there is also a small magnet in the handle base itself that needs to be swapped. Picture is from the passenger side. Driver side was a little different to account for the lock cylinder.

 

[oldmitch]

Anyone get the keyless-go working on a manual transmission, diesel? I got mine all hooked mine up, and programmed. Fobiks programmed fine. Hub reset fine (i think?) Doors lock and unlock with new fobiks. Truck detects them? (when I get in the truck it says "push clutch + start). But it just never starts. @Jimmy07 Ideas?

 

[Jimmy07]

Anyone get the keyless-go working on a manual transmission, diesel? I got mine all hooked mine up, and programmed. Fobiks programmed fine. Hub reset fine (i think?) Doors lock and unlock with new fobiks. Truck detects them? (when I get in the truck it says "push clutch + start). But it just never starts. @Jimmy07 Ideas?

Unplug the C1 connector from the rf hub (this is the connector that was originally plugged into your old rf hub). Find the yellow/orange wire in position 7 on that connector. Is there a male pin in that spot on the RF Hub itself?

 

[oldmitch]

Unplug the C1 connector from the rf hub (this is the connector that was originally plugged into your old rf hub). Find the yellow/orange wire in position 7 on that connector. Is there a male pin in that spot on the RF Hub itself?

Yes

 

[oldmitch]

Yes

And by "yes" I mean "no" There is no pin on the RF Hub in position 7. I'm hoping that's the way it SHOULD be? @Jimmy07

 

[Jimmy07]

And by "yes" I mean "no" There is no pin on the RF Hub in position 7

That is the clutch interlock signal that is needed that gets grounded when you push in the clutch. I’m not sure if there is a work around for that, or if a keyless enter n go hub part number exists that might have that pin. Which part number did you go with?

 

[oldmitch]

That is the clutch interlock signal that is needed that gets grounded when you push in the clutch. I’m not sure if there is a work around for that, or if a keyless enter n go hub part number exists that might have that pin. Which part number did you go with?

@Jimmy07 The one listed as the replacement for the one you have in your original post.


68319680ae

I have to assume that there's a factory option, if the EVIC has the "Push clutch + Start" display

 

[Jimmy07]

@Jimmy07 The one listed as the replacement for the one you have in your original post.


68319680ae

I have to assume that there's a factory option, if the EVIC has the "Push clutch + Start" display

Here’s the best I can come up with- https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/RAM/5500/RECEIVER-Hub/13228231/68319678AE.html

 

[oldmitch]

Here’s the best I can come up with- https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/RAM/5500/RECEIVER-Hub/13228231/68319678AE.html

Thanks for finding that. Anyone interested in buying my brand new RF hub, and 3 linked key fobs?

 

[TRRUCK]

Good catch - although from what I've read throughout this thread, once the keys and RF Hub are paired to a truck, not usable on other ones (keys maybe if you get locksmith to unpair).

I'm waiting to start mine once I get the parts.. would have been in the same boat as I've ordered the same RF unit as you had, and mines a manual as well.

Have you ordered/received/installed the new one yet?

 

[DoughRat19]

Decided to add proximity handles to the back doors. Passenger side is done. Hoping to have the driver side done tomorrow. Need a nut and bolt to turn a passenger side handle into a driver side handle and then I should be good to go.

 

[chrisbh17]

And here I never even changed my front passenger door to prox

 

[DoughRat19]

And here I never even changed my front passenger door to prox

haha, I got tired of always carrying the kids/stuff and trying to open the back door only to realize it was locked and I had to touch the front handle. Not a huge issue, but the convenience is gonna be nice.

 

[DoughRat19]

Drivers side is done. Got all 4 doors going now.

 

[TRRUCK]

Drivers side is done. Got all 4 doors going now.

View attachment 247319

The blue looks really good.

 

[Kurt B]

I found the source of the issue and everything is working great now. If you swap the passive handle part with the wires to a non-passive entry base there is also a small magnet in the handle base itself that needs to be swapped. Picture is from the passenger side. Driver side was a little different to account for the lock cylinder.

View attachment 245481

I swapped the entire door handle on mine and didn’t have any wires on the old handles? Where did you find the missing magnet on the new handle or the old? I will have to take my handles apart and look at them now. I had kind of given up on getting them To work.

 

[DoughRat19]

I swapped the entire door handle on mine and didn’t have any wires on the old handles? Where did you find the missing magnet on the new handle or the old? I will have to take my handles apart and look at them now. I had kind of given up on getting them To work.

He kept the base from his old handle and just swapped out the actual handle. There is a magnet on the base of the passive entry ones so he had to pull the magnet from the passive entry base and add it to his non-passive entry base because that was the base he used. Hopefully that makes sense. If you look at the underside of the passive entry base, you will see a little white plastic down in a cevasse, that is the magnet.

with all that said, you would only have the same issue as him if you took apart your passive entry handle and used your original base on the install.