I need a new battery....

[HemiPower36]

whats the lighting you have? asking cause i like lights and have mine lit up as well.

Thanks for the inquiry, I like lights very much.
I have two VisionX 6’7” ADV light cannons, four VisionX 4’7” multi led CG2 light cannons, 20” Baja Design ONYX+, pair of Baja Designs S1 amber wide corner.

Any questions about any particular light? I don’t mind derailing this thread lol. I already got the battery from autozone. The one above that I pictured.


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[kad]

How long are yall getting out of your stoxk battery, I've got 60k on my 16, 4.5 year old battery.

I replaced mine with an AGM after 5 years when I started adding lighting, but the OEM is still in use in my shop as a test power source.

-K

 

[Marshall]

Any knowledgeable battery people out there? I need a new battery for my truck....




I have a lot invested in high end lighting (just over $2,500) and, since the lights draw power right off the battery, I want something quality. Thank for the input.


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If you are drawing a lot of power with all those lights , and big amp? etc, more than the alternator will keep up with, it don't matter what battery you use, you will loss charge,
I have a '14, not a lot of miles, 65000Km, still on the original battery.

 

[HemiPower36]

If you are drawing a lot of power with all those lights , and big amp? etc, more than the alternator will keep up with, it don't matter what battery you use, you will loss charge,
I have a '14, not a lot of miles, 65000Km, still on the original battery.

Very true. I am highly considering upgrading my alternator down the road. Pretty exited for it.


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[boblonben]

Highest rated is the good ol' Wal-Mart MAXX batteries. Use'em. love,em, never had a problem with one.

 

[chris1126]

Thanks for the inquiry, I like lights very much.
I have two VisionX 6’7” ADV light cannons, four VisionX 4’7” multi led CG2 light cannons, 20” Baja Design ONYX+, pair of Baja Designs S1 amber wide corner.

Any questions about any particular light? I don’t mind derailing this thread lol. I already got the battery from autozone. The one above that I pictured.


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hey thats really cool! i wasnt expwcting lights like that. i went with the more decorative lighting haha. leds everywhere. do you do alot of off roading? truck looks great!

 

[Fergusontd]

I've found DieHards die easy! My origional Mopar battery in my '01 died @ 13years. Replaced it with another Mopar from the dealer.

 

[HemiPower36]

hey thats really cool! i wasnt expwcting lights like that. i went with the more decorative lighting haha. leds everywhere. do you do alot of off roading? truck looks great!

Thank you! I started getting into lighting after I destroyed a deer at highway speed. I kinda felt bad for the guy and it really messed the front of my truck up. Hence the steel bumper. I bought a high end light bar to use on backroads and it was all down here from there hahaha.
Just the light bar only:



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[chris1126]

Thank you! I started getting into lighting after I destroyed a deer at highway speed. I kinda felt bad for the guy and it really messed the front of my truck up. Hence the steel bumper. I bought a high end light bar to use on backroads and it was all down here from there hahaha.
Just the light bar only:



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NO WAY!! how far is that? yeah i feel bad hitting deer also.

 

[HemiPower36]

So, I came in to pick up my new battery. I decided to take my old battery (Duralast Gold) into autoZone to get it tested/ core return.

Aaaand, according to the dude behind the counter: “it looks good. It is a tad low. It’s at 11 and should be 12. I can charge it for you if you want.”

I am thinking I might have another issue and not the battery. Not a ******* thing works electronic wise. Amp research steps, auxiliary lights, nothing. I put the key in and nothing happens. No dash lights, no attempt for the engine to turn over, no rapid clicking. Dead.

Then, the next day, key fob works, dash lights come on, amp steps out.....but....as soon as I turn that key. Dead as **** instantly. Not a ******** thing works. Didn’t even make it to the point where the engine had a chance to turn. Just dead. Nothing works now.

I have jump started it twice within the last few weeks. Jumps no problem and I can start it just fine a days after. I tried to jump it this morning but that damn car alarm kept going off. It was ridiculous! After a half dozen attempts, with the car alarm going off, I called it quits because the neighbors kept coming out as if their car was getting stolen.

Apparently the battery is fine. I didn’t get the new one after all because I might have a different issue.

Help please. Thank you.


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[Hemi395]

So, I came in to pick up my new battery. I decided to take my old battery (Duralast Gold) into autoZone to get it tested/ core return.

Aaaand, according to the dude behind the counter: “it looks good. It is a tad low. It’s at 11 and should be 12. I can charge it for you if you want.”

I am thinking I might have another issue and not the battery. Not a ******* thing works electronic wise. Amp research steps, auxiliary lights, nothing. I put the key in and nothing happens. No dash lights, no attempt for the engine to turn over, no rapid clicking. Dead.

Then, the next day, key fob works, dash lights come on, amp steps out.....but....as soon as I turn that key. Dead as **** instantly. Not a ******** thing works. Didn’t even make it to the point where the engine had a chance to turn. Just dead. Nothing works now.

Apparently the battery is fine. I didn’t get the new one after all because I might have a different issue.

Help please. Thank you.


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When my factory battery went bad, it showed 12.1V which is lower than normal but not terrible. It was making me question if the battery was actually bad and I had another problem. I stopped by my mechanic, he load tested it, and it failed miserably.

Did he do a load test on it or just check the voltage? I would get a second opinion on the battery being "good". A good battery should at least have over 12V sitting. Plus these newer vehicles will go haywire if the voltage isn't a consistent 12+.

Either way I'd get it checked by someone else. Or invest in a battery load tester so you can check it yourself...

 

[HemiPower36]

When my factory battery went bad, it showed 12.1V which is lower than normal but not terrible. It was making me question if the battery was actually bad and I had another problem. I stopped my mechanic, he load tested it, and it failed miserably.

Did he do a load test on it or just check the voltage? I would get a second opinion on the battery being "good". A good battery should at least have over 12V sitting. Plus these newer vehicles will go haywire if the voltage isn't a consistent 12+.

Either way I'd get it checked by someone else. Or invest in a battery load tester so you can check it yourself...

The guy just checked the voltage. That’s it. I told him I think the battery might be bad. He just offered to charge it. He was friendly. I don’t think he was trying to get out of work.

I will look for a second opinion. I hope it is something easy. Google has a laundry list of potential things wrong.

Thank you for the input




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[Gary2]

I read some place the 12.something is considered dead and won't start the newer vehicles . News to be but I replaced it and trucks been fine for the better part of a year

 

[StoneDude76]

Here's my opinion. My trucks battery lasted 6 years in the north east. I bought another factory Mopar one from the stealership.

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[Gary2]

Only problem with the OE MOPAR is it seems like the OE batteries from a few years back lasted much longer than the newer years. My 2017 Sport lasted 2 years so at the same time my 2014 still had the oe battery in it so I also put an Odyssey in that also being my daughter took that truck over. The OE battery was still going strong at 5 years old . Many of the members here have found the newer trucks don't seem to get the same life out the MOPAR batteries.

 

[sierraangler]

If you have etorque does the 48v rechargeable battery keep the electronics powered when disconnecting and changing the 12v battery?

 

[HemiPower36]

So, I got a new battery. Total replacement under warranty. Upgraded from the Duralast gold to Duralast platinum.

I put the negative cable on, all good. As soon as the positive cable touches, the damn car alarm starts blasting. Continuously. My truck had the old battery out while I waited for a day off to do the swap.

This has never happened when I changed a car battery before. I am hoping someone with some experience can offer me guidance. Thank you.


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[HemiPower36]

If you have etorque does the 48v rechargeable battery keep the electronics powered when disconnecting and changing the 12v battery?

No etorque on my truck.


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[crackerjack1957]

So, I got a new battery. Total replacement under warranty. Upgraded from the Duralast gold to Duralast platinum.

I put the negative cable on, all good. As soon as the positive cable touches, the damn car alarm starts blasting. Continuously. My truck had the old battery out while I waited for a day off to do the swap.

This has never happened when I changed a car battery before. I am hoping someone with some experience can offer me guidance. Thank you.


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Always put positive cable on 1st before negative........probably nothing to do with alarm though......if alarm goes off just crank truck or push alarm key on fob if yours have 1

 

[HemiPower36]

Always put positive cable on 1st before negative........probably nothing to do with alarm though......if alarm goes off just crank truck or push alarm key on fob if yours have 1

I don’t know why this is so difficult for me. Beyond frustrating. So I put the new battery in. Positive first. The negative touches and I get some tiny sparks/ sizzling sound. Nothing out of the ordinary thus far. At least I don’t think. The alarm went off for a few seconds and dash lights came on.

That’s it. Not a ******** things works. I put the key in. Nothing. Head lights won’t turn on. Light bar in the front won’t turn on. Key fob doesn’t do **** (replaced the fob battery last night).

I am lost and about to push this thing off a cliff.

I checked the battery with a volt meter and it is good at 12.45 volts.

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