JBA long tubes and Y pipe

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McBroom

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I am looking at buying JBA 1 7/8 long tubes with Y pipe for $450 +shipping. Any ideas how much shipping im looking at?

View attachment 145219

Put it in the cart at a couple different sites and see. Jegs and Summit racing will give you free shipping.


I Love my 18 Ram 2500HD 4x4 CC
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Put it in the cart at a couple different sites and see. Jegs and Summit racing will give you free shipping.


I Love my 18 Ram 2500HD 4x4 CC
Blue Streak Pearl off-road

Im buying it used from a private seller. seller is going to mail them to me. He hasnt figured out shipping cost, thats why im asking you guys how much you think it will be.
 

crackerjack1957

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Im buying it used from a private seller. seller is going to mail them to me. He hasnt figured out shipping cost, thats why im asking you guys how much you think it will be.
Average guy doesn't get a break on shipping cost like the big companies.......I bet it would cost around $50 -$75.
You can get cost on UPS web site with size of box & weight.
 
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Jwithing

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Im guessing $100 to $150 depending on how it's packaged. Carven progressive muffler costs $50 to ship and this is about three times that, maybe a little more. Still a decent deal if you don't want ceramic coating.
 
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Im guessing $100 to $150 depending on how it's packaged. Carven progressive muffler costs $50 to ship and this is about three times that, maybe a little more. Still a decent deal if you don't want ceramic coating.

Yeah im hoping its not over $100. The Y pipe looks pretty long. I wont be doing ceramic since its stainless. It might get a little surface rust, but you cant see headers anyway.
"Chrome doesnt make ya go faster"
 

Wild one

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Yeah im hoping its not over $100. The Y pipe looks pretty long. I wont be doing ceramic since its stainless. It might get a little surface rust, but you cant see headers anyway.
"Chrome doesnt make ya go faster"

A tip for you if you like your brake and fuel lines,wrap the headers with header wrap.JBA's 1 7/8 run very close to the plastic fuel line and brake lines on the drivers side frame rail,and have been known to melt the fuel line.A little preventive maintaince before you put them on ,is better then trying to move lines or wrap headers after they are on.I wrapped my JBA's twice in that vinicity and also stuck some DEI stick on heat shielding on the frame rail over the lines,might be overkill with the reflective heat shielding,but i'd rather be safe then sorry,boiling brake fluid in the lines isn't fun,nor is a melted fuel line.Install the dipstick tube before you bolt the drivers side header down ,trying to re-install it after the header is tightened down will make you learn some new words.Use Remflex gaskets on manifold and collector,they're even better then the OEM 6.1 gaskets,i've ran both,and Remflex gaskets are the way to go. Don't waste money on Stage 8 fasteners,you can't get the locking tabs/clips on all the bolts anyways,and you'll curse the sum of ***** that sold them to you if you ever have to remove the headers.A stubby 7/16" wrench is a good friend to have when you're trying to get the lower bolts snugged up.Jack it up a fair ways in the air if you don't have a lift,pull front tires and inner wheel liners out,disconnect the steering shaft at the coupler,and buy lots of beer,you're gonna need a few,lol
 

Wild one

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You might also want to pre dent the front drivers side primary tube where it gets close to the steering knuckle.The bigger JBA's have a known issue with binding up the steering shaft when you make a right hand corner while accelerating and the engine moves over in the chassis.The motor mounts are a viscious mount on our trucks,and allow the motor to move around slightly ,enough that a lot of guys have issues with the header binding up the steering. Trust me you'll want to pre dent them on the ground,as trying to dent them after install on the truck isn't much fun,lol.
 
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You might also want to pre dent the front drivers side primary tube where it gets close to the steering knuckle.The bigger JBA's have a known issue with binding up the steering shaft when you make a right hand corner while accelerating and the engine moves over in the chassis.The motor mounts are a viscious mount on our trucks,and allow the motor to move around slightly ,enough that a lot of guys have issues with the header binding up the steering. Trust me you'll want to pre dent them on the ground,as trying to dent them after install on the truck isn't much fun,lol.

Thanks wild man! Im sure the install will go a LOT better with the knowledge you shared. I took screen shots of this. Haha. Im actually at a VA PTSD clinic in Piladalphia. I will be here for 6 months, so i left my truck at my friends house. He doesnt have a lot of monsy, his wife has MS, and his truck is done, totally wore out and not worth fixing. So he bought a 75 ford Fw
250 that the back half of the frame was rusted and paper thin. He cut the frame off right behind the cab, and is fabbing a new frame.
Im letging him drive my truck untilm its done. He told me more bolts broke and its getting loud, and offered to install my new headers.
He works for a place that restores san fran sisco and texas trollies, so hes very particular and will do a good job. Hes a really good guy.

Screenshot_2018-11-01-20-35-10.png
 
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Thanks guys, takes s lot to submit, but my drinking was getting worse. Getting the help i need. Well, shipping for a set of long tube headers and y pipe was $100. Looks like im the new owner of headers and a y pipe.
Ill make sure to forward the screen shots of wild ones advice to my buddy that is putting them on.
 

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