Kicker Key 180.4 Amp install

[Graygoose]

Yes the Key can detect what freq range the speaker is capable of reproducing.
Now I can max volume, no distortion.
Mine is tucked up under dash as well. Id like to do a single sub, and use our new KEY500.1 mono amp.

 

[chrisbh17]

Yes the Key can detect what freq range the speaker is capable of reproducing.
Now I can max volume, no distortion.
Mine is tucked up under dash as well. Id like to do a single sub, and use our new KEY500.1 mono amp.

I see the Key 200.4 is out now....aside from the slightly extra wattage per channel, are there any other major differences?

Thanks.

 

[HTXRamExp]

In my audio research, I've learned that I need to get better at researching. Somehow I didn't find this thread until this evening, while I've already assaulted @Graygoose 's inbox, when it would likely be more productive to post in here, crowd sourcing information as well as getting information out there for others to learn.

This is my absolute first time looking into upgrading anything regarding any audio system. There is certainly a wealth of information posted shared from many members and it is greatly appreciated. In spite of that, I was still overwhelmed and confused working through it, but I think I've reached about 98% of my planning phase.

Patient: 2019 Ram 1500 Express Classic w/ the 8.4 4C UAS Headunit w/ the base 6 speaker system.

Upgrade Equipment
Dash Speakers - Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX 3-1/2" 2-way
Front Door Speakers - Infinity Reference 9632IX 6"x9" 2-Way Car Speakers (installs w/ 1/4" spacer per here)
Rear Door Speakers - Infinity Reference 9632IX 6"x9" 2-Way Car Speakers
Amp - Kicker Key180.4, running in bi-amp mode, powering dash/door (may switch to Key200.4 as it offers the same benefits w/ more watts while maintaining the same size)
Sub - Kicker HS10 Hideaway

I've attached a photo (not to scale or in any way a proper wiring diagram lol) of how I believe everything should be wired up. Please let me know if you see anything incorrect or perhaps a better way.

I do have a couple of remaining questions though. I plan to run new speaker wire from the amp to the Dash and Door speakers.

1) What's a decent kit for speaker wire, as well as ground/power wire for the Key amp since it does not include those items. (The hideaway comes with everything).

2) What would be the best way to connect the new speaker wire to the dash/door speakers? I'd like to keep the OEM wiring uncut if possible. I already have a Jailbreak Enzo jumper harness between the OEM radio connector and the radio, so I plan to tap the wires off of that instead of the OEM wiring.

Similar to the dash/front door, tapping the rear speaker wire for the sub, I thought I would tap into the metra harness after the connector to keep the OEM wiring uncut, but that then requires pulling the cable all the way into the door, which seems excessive.

3) I already have an AUX panel and aux lights powered at the battery. Does anyone recommend a good power distribution bar that could be added to help space out, clean things up in that area?

I welcome any help, suggestions regarding install/equipment. Thanks!

 

[Yooper600]

Couple quick questions for you all. Mainly looking at @Graygoose since it seems you know quite a bit about the Kicker installs on these trucks. Here's what I have. Hideaway installed under passenger seat already. I've also already installed the CSC693 in both front doors. I have the KEY 180.4 and am preparing to install that at the same time as the KSC350 in the dash. I want to Bi-amp it as talked about earlier. I know the dash speakers are wired to AMP 1 and door speakers to AMP 2 on the output of the KEY. I also know I will have to run dedicated speaker wire to the dash speakers because from the factory they are wired in parallel with the front door speakers. I guess what I'm not too sure of is the resistance of the dash speakers. With the factory ones being 8 ohms and the KSC350 being 4 ohms, do I still need to add the 4 ohm resister in-line between the KEY and the dash speakers? Or does the KEY with DSP take care of this? Or does running the new wiring to the dash speakers take care of this? I also don't quite remember if I tapped into the front or back door speaker wires for the Hideaway. Is there one that is better than the other? Will having the hideaway tapped into the front door speaker wiring cause any issues with the KEY? I'm pretty sure when it's all setup, and I want to run the DSP auto setup, I need to have the rear door speakers and hideaway disconnected. Is that correct?

 

[HTXRamExp]

Couple quick questions for you all. Mainly looking at @Graygoose since it seems you know quite a bit about the Kicker installs on these trucks. Here's what I have. Hideaway installed under passenger seat already. I've also already installed the CSC693 in both front doors. I have the KEY 180.4 and am preparing to install that at the same time as the KSC350 in the dash. I want to Bi-amp it as talked about earlier. I know the dash speakers are wired to AMP 1 and door speakers to AMP 2 on the output of the KEY. I also know I will have to run dedicated speaker wire to the dash speakers because from the factory they are wired in parallel with the front door speakers. I guess what I'm not too sure of is the resistance of the dash speakers. With the factory ones being 8 ohms and the KSC350 being 4 ohms, do I still need to add the 4 ohm resister in-line between the KEY and the dash speakers? Or does the KEY with DSP take care of this? Or does running the new wiring to the dash speakers take care of this? I also don't quite remember if I tapped into the front or back door speaker wires for the Hideaway. Is there one that is better than the other? Will having the hideaway tapped into the front door speaker wiring cause any issues with the KEY? I'm pretty sure when it's all setup, and I want to run the DSP auto setup, I need to have the rear door speakers and hideaway disconnected. Is that correct?

From what I have researched:
-The Key will take care of your dash speakers, no resistor necessary.

-Front and rear speakers are both full range, so tapping into either one shouldn’t be an issue (I plan to tap the rears).

-After running new front door speaker wire, I’m Not sure if you tapped the fronts if that will still work, you may need to tap into that wire instead of the OEM? Or tap the rear speakers. I guess it would depend how you wired everything up.

-Correct, you’ll want the rear speakers and sub powered off, only the speakers powered by the Key on.


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[Graygoose]

HTX is correct, the DSP will fix it., basically what I have, no harsh dash blarring in your face.
You'll love it!

 

[Yooper600]

So I'm in the process of wiring everything up. Please forgive my stupidity. I've connected the output harness on Amp1 to the new speaker wire I have run up to the dash speakers. I will soon connect output harness Amp2 to the door speakers using the existing wiring going to them. Now my question is about the input signal to the KEY. Since the door and dash speakers use the same wiring from the factory in parallel, what do I do for the input to the KEY? Do I just use the gray/yellow and gray/violet (for drivers side), tap into those wires and hook one set up for amp1 and the other for amp2 on the input harness? Sorry about all the stupid questions, I have a decent knowledge of electronics, but have never installed an amp before.

 

[HTXRamExp]

So I'm in the process of wiring everything up. Please forgive my stupidity. I've connected the output harness on Amp1 to the new speaker wire I have run up to the dash speakers. I will soon connect output harness Amp2 to the door speakers using the existing wiring going to them. Now my question is about the input signal to the KEY. Since the door and dash speakers use the same wiring from the factory in parallel, what do I do for the input to the KEY? Do I just use the gray/yellow and gray/violet (for drivers side), tap into those wires and hook one set up for amp1 and the other for amp2 on the input harness? Sorry about all the stupid questions, I have a decent knowledge of electronics, but have never installed an amp before.

If you’re running the amp in bi-amp mode, you’ll only use one set of RCAs for the input. You’ll tap the Left Front +/- pair and Right Front +/- pair output wires behind the headunit.

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[Yooper600]

If you’re running the amp in bi-amp mode, you’ll only use one set of RCAs for the input. You’ll tap the Left Front +/- pair and Right Front +/- pair output wires behind the head unit.

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That's interesting. I'm not using RCA's but just high level as the KEY I got already had the harnesses cut for a custom install. So if I am understanding this correctly, I will use half of the speaker inputs for the KEY? The KEY will then take that and divide it between amp1 and amp2? I figured I would use the Left Front +/- pair from the head unit and connect that to both the + and - inputs for amp1 on the KEY and then do the same thing on the right. Then that would have all input wires into the KEY being used.

 

[HTXRamExp]

That's interesting. I'm not using RCA's but just high level as the KEY I got already had the harnesses cut for a custom install. So if I am understanding this correctly, I will use half of the speaker inputs for the KEY? The KEY will then take that and divide it between amp1 and amp2? I figured I would use the Left Front +/- pair from the head unit and connect that to both the + and - inputs for amp1 on the KEY and then do the same thing on the right. Then that would have all input wires into the KEY being used.

Yes that’s correct if running the amp in bi-amp mode.


Video for reference.

And yeah, you can cut off the RCAs and just do a high level wiring install.
Like the video referenced I was planning on using the KISL.

Does anyone know if we need to install something to put a load on the system, so we don’t lose speaker output? I talked to Kicker tech support yesterday and he suggested that, but I hadn’t seen it mentioned here previously.


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[Graygoose]

No you do not.

 

[HTXRamExp]

No you do not.

I did end up having to use the radio detect feauture built into the amp in order for it to turn on/get signal. [emoji106] Thanks for all the help!


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[JP305R]

@Graygoose
@HTXRamExp
@Yooper600

Hey guys I read the thread have never tried this before think I understand almost everything. I’m looking to run in bi-amp mode front doors and dash. Going to use the kicker KISL. My questions are as follows.
1)what is a good wiring kit for the kicker key?
2) do I need to rewire the dash speakers separately with new wire?? Or the car doors or none at all?
3) where is the best place to install it inside the head unit behind the radio?

 

[Graygoose]

Behind the radio, but have it close when your running auto setup, in case you want to add more gain.

Yes, wire all 4 speakers to the amp, new from amp to dash, and each door.

 

[JP305R]

Behind the radio, but have it close when your running auto setup, in case you want to add more gain.

Yes, wire all 4 speakers to the amp, new from amp to dash, and each door.

What is the reason behind rewiring both sets of dash and door speakers? Is there a reason we can’t use the existing wiring?
It makes sense that if they are ran parallel we would want to separate them completely but then wouldn’t we just re wire the door speakers?
Thank you for the response.

 

[Graygoose]

They are., at least on a 4th gen, the stock dash was 8 ohm in parallel with doors.
Why I just ran new (thinker gauge) speaker wire to each 4 speakers up front.

 

[JP305R]

They are., at least on a 4th gen, the stock dash was 8 ohm in parallel with doors.
Why I just ran new (thinker gauge) speaker wire to each 4 speakers up front.

Ok thank you!
last set of questions for you. Is there enough existing factory wire that comes from the HU to properly place and connect the amp behind the HU do you recommend like a 9 conductor cable?

 

[Graygoose]

we made a whole new harness, but there's room behind the radio.

 

[JP305R]

we made a whole new harness, but there's room behind the radio.

Thank you so much man one last thing is it better to use the KISL instead of just cutting off the RCA’s off the key harness and using high level input I don’t really understand the difference???

 

[HTXRamExp]

Thank you so much man one last thing is it better to use the KISL instead of just cutting off the RCA’s off the key harness and using high level input I don’t really understand the difference???

It shouldn't matter either way. I used the KISL only for ease of removal later if it ever came to that.


I mounted mine behind the radio/HVAC trim panel



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