Large system install, worth changing head unit?

[Bigtymes]

I have an appointment for a rather large audio system installation for this week. This has been months in the making, and have said since day 1 I was keeping the 8.4 uconnect rather than swapping. My question is are there any real benefits that are worth the money I would gain by swapping it out. Part of the install is a dsp, and once tuned if I were to replace the unit I would have to pay to have it tuned again. So if I'm going to swap it now is the time to do it. I'm already at $2,700 for the install, and that's with me providing everything except an amp rack and seat spacer. Have about $3,500 invested already in equipment and deadening. Thank you in advance for your help.

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[adurm]

I think if you are going the dsp route you would not need a new head unit. So long as the dsp can de equalize the 8.4.

 

[Bigtymes]

I think if you are going the dsp route you would not need a new head unit. So long as the dsp can de equalize the 8.4.

I got the best one arc audio makes. The ps8. Have the controller for it as well, but doubt that matters. The guy at best buy today told me to replace it due to the quality of sound that the unit puts out. Also said an aftermarket would have 4-5 volt rca outputs which would be better than my stock. No, I'm not having it installed at best buy. Although he did quote me a much less expensive installation.

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[TomT]

Do yourself a favor and don’t have it done at Best Buy. Find a local car audio shop that does quality work.

Do you have the OEM Alpine system? I’ve got a major system and am still using the stock head unit. I use my iPhone as my main source unit (music ripped from CD in Apple Lossless). From there it goes to the stock head unit, then a PAC Audio piece which feeds my Mosconi DSP a digital signal via a Toslink connection.

The quality of sound is excellent and the output voltage does not matter since I’m using a digital signal.

 

[Bigtymes]

Do yourself a favor and don’t have it done at Best Buy. Find a local car audio shop that does quality work.

Do you have the OEM Alpine system? I’ve got a major system and am still using the stock head unit. I use my iPhone as my main source unit (music ripped from CD in Apple Lossless). From there it goes to the stock head unit, then a PAC Audio piece which feeds my Mosconi DSP a digital signal via a Toslink connection.

The quality of sound is excellent and the output voltage does not matter since I’m using a digital signal.

I do not have the alpine. It's the basic with the better/best stock unit. I was on the best buy install for maybe an hour. And it was solely based on price. Well over a thousand less. With that being said I just dropped 1200 at the same shop I before had decided on based on a package deal on my girls car. I found out the same head unit was 25 less including install at best buy, which led me there for a quote for my larger install on my truck. It was 349 plus install here asy package deal. As for the truck my intent is to (or what I currently do) Bluetooth my pandora and use my memory stick for music. Being told now I won't get the high quality sound that way. Will get CD quality or less. I just don't want to overpay when I'm willing to spend this kind of money with a shop as well as provide everything, so paying for labor. Total bill is $3,700. I feel like if I'm bringing business in your admitted slow time of year I would like to not be gouged on price. So with best buy prices I could get a head unit for the same or less as my quote with the local shop. Not doing best buy, but has me wondering if I should bite the bullet and drop another grand or 2 on a new unit. Even tho it's not budgeted.

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[Bigtymes]

Just want to say to everyone that reads this, I apologize in advance. I type a lot and very detailed. It's only cause I want to input as much as possible and make "the right" decision. I take everyone's opinion above my own as i have no clue. And this is a very expensive option. According to the place I have decided on bare minimum is 800 bucks. I'm not a rich man. I feel that amount of money. I spent over 2 months buying used gear off ebay to install. Input is valued well beyond my ability to describe.

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[TomT]

Can you list your new system plan? What are you getting for that money and what do you want out of your system? More details on the equipment and the complexity of the install would help.

As for the quality, CD quality is much higher res than anything you would ever stream. Pandora and the like are 2/3 CD quality at best.

 

[Bigtymes]

Can you list your new system plan? What are you getting for that money and what do you want out of your system? More details on the equipment and the complexity of the install would help.

As for the quality, CD quality is much higher res than anything you would ever stream. Pandora and the like are 2/3 CD quality at best.

So this is what I typed out to send to the best buy guy. I also have another thread I started months ago when I was beginning the purchasing portion of the system. About a 2 minute read below.


Focal 6.5, tweets, and 4 inch for dash. (doing away with the 6x9 for rears most likely) (slight trimming in dash to fit 4 in speakers is required I do believe)

*

Focal 6x9 for rear ????? (have them, not sure if I'm supposed to use them)

*

Speaker adapters to convert 6x9 to 6.5 (may be too thick)*

*

3 arc audio amps ( (2) 300.4, (1) 600.2)*

*

Arc audio ps8 with controller (needs firmware updates and such) (controller to be mounted somewhere to look factory. also has 3 presets to be tuned, can discuss in person)

*

180 Sq ft roadkill expert (36 Sq ft of this off brand and used under carpet only)*

*

36 Sq ft roadkill carpet pad (laid on top of off brand dynamat)

*

Peel and stick ensolite for everywhere else except under the carpet


Sound deadener to be installed with 100% coverage everywhere inside the cab including pillars with scrap pieces cut from other portions of install. Purchased enough to do both panels for the 4 doors.

*

Fast rings speaker foam for around 6.5's

*

1/0 gauge power wire for everywhere (includes going to all amps from distribution blocks with rings/reducers, some of which will need to be grinded down to fit)*

*

1/0 gauge for big 3,4,5,6? wire upgrade*

*

Heat shrink for ends of all wires/connectors*

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150 ft 16 gauge speaker wire for all speakers*(ran true from amp all the way into speaker terminals/connectors - not using any factory wiring)

*

20 ft 12 gauge speaker wire for subs*

*

Emblems/lettering for sub box and amp rack with 3m tape (Ram Head and Letters R.A.M. x 2)

*

Stinger fuse holder*

*

Wire loom (will have this on wire upon arrival to help save time)*

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Led interior light/license plate bulb kit

*

May swap out to a better battery as well if I find one that will fit in factory location. Do not want to add a secondary.*



I will need carpeted seat spacers and amp rack built. The seat spacers intended for this box are 1-1/2 inches tall, and when installed create the "back seat mod" for free!!! Ha.*



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[Bigtymes]

Can you list your new system plan? What are you getting for that money and what do you want out of your system? More details on the equipment and the complexity of the install would help.

As for the quality, CD quality is much higher res than anything you would ever stream. Pandora and the like are 2/3 CD quality at best.

What I want is also detailed in my other post, but basically I want it to be clear as it can, and sound as great as possible. I would like to be able to crank it and hear it from a distance if ever the need arises. I figure I will get the bug and upgrade door speakers eventually, but essentially I would like to do it once and be done. The focal are the access series. Not the best I know, but what I could afford at the time. The rears I am debating on are 300 bucks on Crutchfield, and they may end up being wasted. I purchased being a noob throughout this, so I know I have wasted some money. So I would like to not waste anymore. Hence the head unit delima.

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[baum]

Unless your are using the true 6/4/tweet three way setup ditch the 4" dash.

Also be aware that most of your money is ******* in the sound deadening.

make sure if they are "raising" your rear seat that they are using a piece of steel and NOT wood. i have seen some shops use wood before.

Do not use BBY to install they are not qualified enough in the dsp area for an install like this. I use to work there in the install bay.

 

[adrianp89]

Do yourself a favor and don’t have it done at Best Buy. Find a local car audio shop that does quality work.

Do you have the OEM Alpine system? I’ve got a major system and am still using the stock head unit. I use my iPhone as my main source unit (music ripped from CD in Apple Lossless). From there it goes to the stock head unit, then a PAC Audio piece which feeds my Mosconi DSP a digital signal via a Toslink connection.

The quality of sound is excellent and the output voltage does not matter since I’m using a digital signal.

Don't group us all the same. My team at Best Buy is better than most of the local shops. Our market alone has multiple Master installers (~300 total in the country). It's no different than mom and pop shops... some are good and some are bad. We could do his job no problem. The only limitation we have is fabrications and that is due to corporate, not skill.

 

[adrianp89]

To the OP:

Ask the store about "Total Tech", if they don't have it, they will be getting it soon. You will need to spend $150 when you buy a $50 product, or just $200 with nothing else. This will cover all your labor (unless it's custom). If they don't have it yet - wait or find a store that is offering it. You can send me the other $2k

 

[WilliamS]

Don't group us all the same. My team at Best Buy is better than most of the local shops. Our market alone has multiple Master installers (~300 total in the country). It's no different than mom and pop shops... some are good and some are bad. We could do his job no problem. The only limitation we have is fabrications and that is due to corporate, not skill.

I can attest to that, well kinda. I worked at a circuit city install bay and I was embarrassed on how some of the guys would use quick crimps on everything and behind the headunit was a nightmare. I always used solder and heat shrink, it looked like it came from the factory.

I did not like the fact we had no workshop tools so everything was prefab but still it was my name that went on it if there was ever an issue.

The hard part as a consumer is you do not which installer you were getting. I can tell you I would not have brought my car to those guys even where i personally worked because it was a dice roll. Like Adrian stated though a mom and pop that usually installs only bass installs may not have the technical skill either as they mainly run power, ground, remote, hack in a LOC and then end user just wants to shake his trunk. Any respectable installer will have a demo car, ask to see that car, and ask for that guy to do the install.

 

[baum]

Any respectable installer will have a demo car, ask to see that car, and ask for that guy to do the install.

Thats a matter of opinion if a shop can afford it. I have installed at many high end stores and only one had a demo vehicle and that one was owned by native americans that were getting paid 100k+ a month from the tribe.

Yes i had great SQ setups in my personal vehicles, but i didnt use it to demo as i was not given the equipment or it was with product that was not carried at the store i was currently working at.

 

[adrianp89]

Thats a matter of opinion if a shop can afford it. I have installed at many high end stores and only one had a demo vehicle and that one was owned by native americans that were getting paid 100k+ a month from the tribe.

Yes i had great SQ setups in my personal vehicles, but i didnt use it to demo as i was not given the equipment or it was with product that was not carried at the store i was currently working at.

x2... One point my Challenger could have been used as demo, but the truck is factory and the Challenger had stuff that is not in our customers budget. I keep a picture log but thats about it. No one really asks, when you speak to customers and explain things to them you easily can gain trust.

 

[Bigtymes]

Unless your are using the true 6/4/tweet three way setup ditch the 4" dash.

Also be aware that most of your money is ******* in the sound deadening.

make sure if they are "raising" your rear seat that they are using a piece of steel and NOT wood. i have seen some shops use wood before.

Do not use BBY to install they are not qualified enough in the dsp area for an install like this. I use to work there in the install bay.

As for which speakers are being used I have pretty much h left it up to the installer and the people on here on my other post. The majority said ditch the rears and do a true 3 way front stage, so that was what I was going for. I figured if I used the rears I would tie them in strictly for midbass. I have never had a system like this so I'm not sure.

The spacers are carpeted wood. I rarely ever have anyone in the back. Normally the seats aren't even down, they are filed up with the flat board out as it is a work truck.

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[Bigtymes]

To the OP:

Ask the store about "Total Tech", if they don't have it, they will be getting it soon. You will need to spend $150 when you buy a $50 product, or just $200 with nothing else. This will cover all your labor (unless it's custom). If they don't have it yet - wait or find a store that is offering it. You can send me the other $2k

They do, which was going to drop the price quite a bit. 20% off custom labor and free amp installs.

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[adrianp89]

They do, which was going to drop the price quite a bit. 20% off custom labor and free amp installs.

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The only custom labor should be cutting the dash. (Prob $80 for an hour) There is a sku for sound deadening.

 

[Bigtymes]

I can attest to that, well kinda. I worked at a circuit city install bay and I was embarrassed on how some of the guys would use quick crimps on everything and behind the headunit was a nightmare. I always used solder and heat shrink, it looked like it came from the factory.

I did not like the fact we had no workshop tools so everything was prefab but still it was my name that went on it if there was ever an issue.

The hard part as a consumer is you do not which installer you were getting. I can tell you I would not have brought my car to those guys even where i personally worked because it was a dice roll. Like Adrian stated though a mom and pop that usually installs only bass installs may not have the technical skill either as they mainly run power, ground, remote, hack in a LOC and then end user just wants to shake his trunk. Any respectable installer will have a demo car, ask to see that car, and ask for that guy to do the install.

The guy I spoke to seemed to know what he was talking about and said he would do the install. Said he has been doing it since he was 16. One big thing is making all the wiring look good also. Don't want anyone just throwing the system in in a hurry. Best buy said 3-4 days max and the other shop said about 7.

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[Bigtymes]

The only custom labor should be cutting the dash. (Prob $80 for an hour) There is a sku for sound deadening.

Oh, see he said there wasn't. The custom labor was about 1200 bucks.

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