Led hyper flash issues

[Matthew Smith]

I’ve installed led turn signals with load resistors to cancel out the hyper flash. They’ve been working fine up intill yesterday were we had some sleet. They started hyper flashing I’ve checked all the connections they are dry and good it’s only the driver side any help would be appreciated

 

[MADDOG]

Try replacing the load resistor.

 

[6speedcummins]

Ditch the resistors and get you some CANBUS friendly LEDs. I run those in the front, and the rear lights I wired into the trailer harness, since the trailer lights don't run through the CANBUS.

 

[joshuaeb09]

Ditch the resistors and get you some CANBUS friendly LEDs. I run those in the front, and the rear lights I wired into the trailer harness, since the trailer lights don't run through the CANBUS.

Not all trucks will play nice even with "CANBUS" bulbs. My '16 requires 2 resistors per side (Forgot the impedance), but they aren't those ****** yellow ceramic bricks everyone basically gives away to get hot as ****. My truck is not happy unless the power draw is damn near identical on both the parking light circuit and the turn circuit without any terrible noise from a cheap LED driver circuit. Right now the resistor setup I built with Putco bulbs is the only working solution I've found, but I'm waiting on some new GTR bulbs that claim to work without resistors. I also haven't tried any other bulbs after the Putcos as they were either my 4th or 5th attempt in a '16. I have my doubts based on other testing I've done with the '16, but I'm hoping to be pleasantly surprised and able to remove all the resistors.

The '12 OP has should be less picky so it's likely either a bulb issue or the resistor causing the issues. To match an in-spec 3157 on the turn circuit you're going to want around 6ohms resistance rated to dissipate at-least 25 watts of heat. To match an in-spec 3157 on the parking circuit you need about 25ohms of resistance that can dissipate around 5-6 watts of heat.

I imagine you could also built a sort of filter with the right caps and diodes to keep the LED driver circuit on cheap bulbs from tripping out the BCM on newer trucks, but honestly that was way more work than I wanted to put in.

 

[6speedcummins]

Not all trucks will play nice even with "CANBUS" bulbs. My '16 requires 2 resistors per side (Forgot the impedance), but they aren't those ****** yellow ceramic bricks everyone basically gives away to get hot as ****. My truck is not happy unless the power draw is damn near identical on both the parking light circuit and the turn circuit without any terrible noise from a cheap LED driver circuit. Right now the resistor setup I built with Putco bulbs is the only working solution I've found, but I'm waiting on some new GTR bulbs that claim to work without resistors. I also haven't tried any other bulbs after the Putcos as they were either my 4th or 5th attempt in a '16. I have my doubts based on other testing I've done with the '16, but I'm hoping to be pleasantly surprised and able to remove all the resistors.

The '12 OP has should be less picky so it's likely either a bulb issue or the resistor causing the issues. To match an in-spec 3157 on the turn circuit you're going to want around 6ohms resistance rated to dissipate at-least 25 watts of heat. To match an in-spec 3157 on the parking circuit you need about 25ohms of resistance that can dissipate around 5-6 watts of heat.

I imagine you could also built a sort of filter with the right caps and diodes to keep the LED driver circuit on cheap bulbs from tripping out the BCM on newer trucks, but honestly that was way more work than I wanted to put in.

I think you'll like the GTR bulbs, that's what I currently have in the front of mine. They DO NOT hyper flash, but here's there stupid thing. While they flash at a normal rate, the dash indicator and clicker DO hyper flash. Since my rear lights are wired into the trailer lights they are unaffected. They only light that will hyper flash on the exterior is the mirror light. I converted my mirror turn signals to marker lights years ago so no issue there. So basically I just tolerate the sound of it, but on the outside everything looks normal. The only resistors I use are for the rear marker lights, one 5W per side just so I don't get an error message.

Front bulbs: GTR Lighting Armor Series 3157 LED Bulbs
Rear lights: OEM RAM LEDs

 

[joshuaeb09]

I think you'll like the GTR bulbs, that's what I currently have in the front of mine. They DO NOT hyper flash, but here's there stupid thing. While they flash at a normal rate, the dash indicator and clicker DO hyper flash. Since my rear lights are wired into the trailer lights they are unaffected. They only light that will hyper flash on the exterior is the mirror light. I converted my mirror turn signals to marker lights years ago so no issue there. So basically I just tolerate the sound of it, but on the outside everything looks normal. The only resistors I use are for the rear marker lights, one 5W per side just so I don't get an error message.

Front bulbs: GTR Lighting Armor Series 3157 LED Bulbs
Rear lights: OEM RAM LEDs

I'm giving those new CANBUS lightning series 2.0 a shot (The ones with the big ass heat sinks intergrated) since they supposedly work on the '19s without any issues whatsoever. That being said I have no experience with the '19s so who knows how close the canbus is to the 4th gen. I should have the rears this week which is handy since that's way easier to play with.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Check out Alfaobd in the diy thread.

Could solve all of your problems without the need for any extra wires and hardware.

 

[MarshRam]

Whatb resistors did you getI I tried some cheaper resistors from Walmart, didn't work. Got the Sylvannia set from AutoZone and have worked since installed. Have them in the front and back.