Lifter cam job parts list

[fadetoblack188]

A while back I saw an entire parts list needed to do the cam and lifter fix. I can’t find it. Anyone have it ? Need to order everything.


Any direct replacement kits I can use ? Or should I just stick with oem parts

 

[fadetoblack188]

Parts planned for the repair / upgrade:

Mopar:
5038785AD - Hydraulic Lifters And Yoke, Front
5038786AD - Hydraulic Lifters And Yoke, Rear
Purchased front and rear for $598

5045515AA - Intake Valve Push Rod - $37.60
5045516AA - Exhaust Valve Push Rod - $39.04
53022263AF - Engine Camshaft -
Purchased for $325
68346911AB - Water Pump -
Purchased aftermarket for $93
53022316AC - Timing Chain - $40.25
53022115AH - Timing Chain Tensioner - $17.49
4893429AA - Timing Chain Guide - $15.29
68195993AD - Hellcat Oil Pump - $134.40
6510763AA - Crankshaft Pulley Bolt - $5.53
53022307AB - Cylinder Head Gasket, Left
53022306AC - Cylinder Head Gasket, Right
Purchased felpro set for $59.50

6510280AA - Hex Head Bolt and Coned Washer, Mounting, Primary
Purchased Mahle headbolts $51.50

W0133-2042676 - Mopar Coolant Concentrated - $47.16

Other:
‎48799 - Stant 190 Thermostat - $20.69
140-1101 - ARP Exhaust Manifold Bolts - $61.44
6022 - Ramflex Exhaust Manifold Gaskets - $36.62
Flush oil change - $37
5w30- Redline Oil - $93.74
Redline Assembly Lube - $18.14
Used AFE headers - $200
Serp Tensioner - $53.63

 

[fadetoblack188]

Found that. Hopefully it’s all the right parts .

Also to do the oil pump can it be done leaving the oil pan on or does it have to be dropped ?

 

[Wild one]

Cam bolt
Spring for an OEM water pump if they're not back ordered

 

[fadetoblack188]

Cam bolt
Spring for an OEM water pump if they're not back ordered

 

[Black1500Ram]

Can check my old thread i have everything i used in it.

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/lifter-failure-hot-oil-better-cooling-etc.191205/page-2

 

[fadetoblack188]

The hell cat oil pump is direct replacement? Dont need to change anything else to add this?

 

[DILLIGAF]

The hell cat oil pump is direct replacement? Dont need to change anything else to add this?

Its not needed at all on a stock engine build. A tune that bumps the idle up is way more beneficial. This has been talked about to death on High Performance Rams by guys that actually build engines for a living.

Good 5w30 oils, like Red Line is also a better investment. Trust me if a HC oil pump was needed on my cam swap, I would of done it. But my OEM pump was still good. Ill be using a Melling high flow when my factory pump ***** the bed down the road.

 

[Black1500Ram]

Its not needed at all on a stock engine build. A tune that bumps the idle up is way more beneficial. This has been talked about to death on High Performance Rams by guys that actually build engines for a living.

Good 5w30 oils, like Red Line is also a better investment. Trust me if a HC oil pump was needed on my cam swap, I would of done it. But my OEM pump was still good. Ill be using a Melling high flow when my factory pump ***** the bed down the road.

It is a direct swap but a PITA to do if you have 4wd.

I swapped the bypass valve spring so I don’t have 90psi pressures.

But like others have said it is not absolutely needed. I got it as a way to increase flow since I could not up my idle speed (locked pcm and was not going to tune).

 

[fadetoblack188]

It is a direct swap but a PITA to do if you have 4wd.

I swapped the bypass valve spring so I don’t have 90psi pressures.

But like others have said it is not absolutely needed. I got it as a way to increase flow since I could not up my idle speed (locked pcm and was not going to tune).

I ended up ordering the melling pump instead. It’s a pain on 4wd bc you need to drop the oil pan right. Ugh I am not looking forward to this job

 

[Black1500Ram]

I ended up ordering the melling pump instead. It’s a pain on 4wd bc you need to drop the oil pan right. Ugh I am not looking forward to this job

Correct however you can do it without dropping the pan which is what I did. The whole front diff has to drop to take the pan out and I wasn’t about to do that.

You can get the pickup tube bolt off by using a ground down 13mm 12pt wrench. Janky but it works.

 

[J-13GTP]

When I replaced my oil pump I just removed the pan and let it drop down. I reused the same oil pan gasket. It gave me enough space to install my new pump. Wasn't that bad to deal with. Just make sure you put rtv in the lower corners of the timing cover.

 

[fadetoblack188]

Nobody is changing cam bearings ? Or worried the cam bearings are wiped? Just sliding in a new cam ?

 

[DILLIGAF]

Nobody is changing cam bearings ? Or worried the cam bearings are wiped? Just sliding in a new cam ?

Cam bearings dont go bad unless the engine is ******. Same as the Mains.

 

[billetgrey]

Parts planned for the repair / upgrade:

Mopar:
5038785AD - Hydraulic Lifters And Yoke, Front
5038786AD - Hydraulic Lifters And Yoke, Rear
Purchased front and rear for $598

5045515AA - Intake Valve Push Rod - $37.60
5045516AA - Exhaust Valve Push Rod - $39.04
53022263AF - Engine Camshaft -
Purchased for $325
68346911AB - Water Pump -
Purchased aftermarket for $93
53022316AC - Timing Chain - $40.25
53022115AH - Timing Chain Tensioner - $17.49
4893429AA - Timing Chain Guide - $15.29
68195993AD - Hellcat Oil Pump - $134.40
6510763AA - Crankshaft Pulley Bolt - $5.53
53022307AB - Cylinder Head Gasket, Left
53022306AC - Cylinder Head Gasket, Right
Purchased felpro set for $59.50

6510280AA - Hex Head Bolt and Coned Washer, Mounting, Primary
Purchased Mahle headbolts $51.50

W0133-2042676 - Mopar Coolant Concentrated - $47.16

Other:
‎48799 - Stant 190 Thermostat - $20.69
140-1101 - ARP Exhaust Manifold Bolts - $61.44
6022 - Ramflex Exhaust Manifold Gaskets - $36.62
Flush oil change - $37
5w30- Redline Oil - $93.74
Redline Assembly Lube - $18.14
Used AFE headers - $200
Serp Tensioner - $53.63

Hey brother. For the hydraulic lifters and yokes, I want to order 2 of each? 4 of each?

 

[J-13GTP]

Hey brother. For the hydraulic lifters and yokes, I want to order 2 of each? 4 of each?

You would want to order two of each.

 

[billetgrey]

Are there any special tools i need for the job?

 

[billetgrey]

It is a direct swap but a PITA to do if you have 4wd.

I swapped the bypass valve spring so I don’t have 90psi pressures.

But like others have said it is not absolutely needed. I got it as a way to increase flow since I could not up my idle speed (locked pcm and was not going to tune).

One last thing man, thank you so so much.

Did you flush the engine (oil) after reassembly, before taking it out on the road? Like run it for a few minutes, then change the oil again?

And after how long did you do the second oil change? 1k or 2k miles?

 

[Black1500Ram]

it’s documented in my thread somewhere.
There’s a link to a video on how to prime the top and bottom halves of the engine.

Although not needed, after priming I ran the engine at 2k rpm for about 20mins. Junked the oil; then ran for 500 miles junked oil and filter, then went to redline 5w30 for 5k.

Now on valvoline extended protection high mileage 5w30.

 

[Wild one]

One last thing man, thank you so so much.

Did you flush the engine (oil) after reassembly, before taking it out on the road? Like run it for a few minutes, then change the oil again?

And after how long did you do the second oil change? 1k or 2k miles?

Change oil before you even start it,as it's virtually impossible to not have some anti-freeze make it into the pan from pulling the heads,then run it for 15/20 minutes on cheap oil and filter,then change the oil/filter again,then change it again by at least 500 miles,then i'd do it once more at about a 1,000 miles,then switch over to your normal oil change intervals.You just spent a pile of money and labour to replace the cam/lifters,don't cheap out on the oil changes afterwards