Lifter Failure / Hot Oil / Better Cooling etc.

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Wild one

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I agree with pretty much everything here. I realize I'm beating the dead horse so don't feel the need to respond.

My thoughts are:

- Isn't cam pitting typically a form of chemical reaction? Corrosion, or acidity. Or undersprung valve spring? I've seen where the roller is so worn that it's basically level with the outside of the lifter like the left one below
View attachment 497420
- I feel ticking is a lash / clearances issue - again assuming that the ticking is coming somewhere from the cam, lifter, pushrod, rocker arm section of the valvetrain. (i could be totally wrong)


When you say they fixed the lifters with beefy springs do you mean internally in the lifter or valve springs? (i'm assuming the former).


Found these two videos on ramforumz ( i see hemimann on there too) adding just cause, i'm sure people have seen them. Learning as i go here.


Lifter Comparison (Cut open)
Lifter Galley
The weak valve spring theory has been floating around for awhile now.it does make a bit of sense.Lifter bounce is definitely going to contribute to cam spalling
 

Burn2k12Ram

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To me it really seems like Engineering accepted the fact knowing the failure rate would be higher but turned an eye as long as it met EPA standards.

And @Burla could think of no one's motor higher qualified than yours as far as being inspected since using your strict regime nearly from the start. Really Dodge should give you a new truck just so they could inspect yours to see the difference from motors using just off the shelf oils compared to yours.
 

Wild one

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Welp add valve springs to my possible rebuild list!
I haven't been able to find these springs lately,but if you can find them,they're the high performance Mopar valve spring,that's a drop in for the 5.7 and is good to 0.625" lift. I've had them in my truck for several years,and they've seen lots of 6500 rpm pulls,with nary an issue.

68277306AA
 
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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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I haven't been able to find these springs lately,but if you can find them,they're the high performance Mopar valve spring,that's a drop in for the 5.7 and is good to 0.625" lift. I've had them in my truck for several years,and they've seen lots of 6500 rpm pulls,with nary an issue.

68277306AA
Thanks! I'll look into the specs on these.

@Wild one are you using these with the stock retainers or did upgrade those also?

Thanks
 
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crazykid1994

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Wild one

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Has anyone thought about making an oil cooler utilizing a thermostatic sandwich plate, cooler and AN lines?

Mishimoto has everything needed:

Sandwich plate (200 degree tstat)
M22 Sandwich Plate Adapter
19 Row Oil Cooler
10 Row Oil Cooler

Probably not enough room for the plate and the 20-820 filter though!
I know of 2 guys who decided to try an external oil cooler,both ended up pulling them off,as the oil cooler causes a hell'va pressure drop,if you plan on an external cooler,you'd probably want to upgrade to the higher volumne Hellcat oil pump. Other option is to look into a dual remote filter set-up,you don't lose any pressure.
 

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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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H

Hence a thermostatic remote filter mount.
Yeah I thought about that, just more and more money...
Honestly seeing @Burla 's post on oil degradation, it makes me much more confident in running 250 degree temps on M1 Fs / Redline especially since I never go past 5000k oil changes. I could just change oil again after towning.
I know of 2 guys who decided to try an external oil cooler,both ended up pulling them off,as the oil cooler causes a hell'va pressure drop,if you plan on an external cooler,you'd probably want to upgrade to the higher volumne Hellcat oil pump. Other option is to look into a dual remote filter set-up,you don't lose any pressure.
Hellcat oil pump is on the list!
 

ramffml

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I know of 2 guys who decided to try an external oil cooler,both ended up pulling them off,as the oil cooler causes a hell'va pressure drop,if you plan on an external cooler,you'd probably want to upgrade to the higher volumne Hellcat oil pump. Other option is to look into a dual remote filter set-up,you don't lose any pressure.

This guys oil cooler install doesn't seem to lose any pressure:
 
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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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This guys oil cooler install doesn't seem to lose any pressure:
$870!!

Hard pass but thanks for the link.
 

ramffml

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$870!! Hard pass but thanks for the link.

Yep, same for me. I mentioned it because I'm interested in the physics, as to what exactly is going on that would cause a lower psi, and it appears from my 10 second search above that not every oil cooler loses pressure (nor would my limited understanding of this subject suggest that it should lose signifcant pressure). Something odd going on somewhere.
 
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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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Yep, same for me. I mentioned it because I'm interested in the physics, as to what exactly is going on that would cause a lower psi, and it appears from my 10 second search above that not every oil cooler loses pressure (nor would my limited understanding of this subject suggest that it should lose signifcant pressure). Something odd going on somewhere.
Basically Poiseuille's law

Oil cooler and extra lines are restrictions based on volumetric area. One could theoretically design a system that has very minimal pressure drop by ensuring the lines’ cross sectional area is sufficient as well as a large enough cooler.
 
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ramffml

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Basically Poiseuille's law

Oil cooler and extra lines are restrictions based on volumetric area. One could theoretically design a system that has very minimal pressure drop by ensuring the lines’ cross sectional area is sufficient as well as a large enough cooler.

Appreciate the link etc. But how much drop are we talking about? A couple psi wouldn't bother me in the slightest.

Only reason I'm asking about this is because I'm (still somewhat) interested in getting a cooler and I've never read (or been told) that installing one lowers your oil psi in any meaningful way. Not saying Wild One is incorrect, I'm just wondering if the cases he saw was a result of a specific cooler/setup in use, or if all coolers on a hemi 5.7 can expect X drop in PSI etc.
 
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Black1500Ram

Black1500Ram

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Appreciate the link etc. But how much drop are we talking about? A couple psi wouldn't bother me in the slightest.

Only reason I'm asking about this is because I'm (still somewhat) interested in getting a cooler and I've never read (or been told) that installing one lowers your oil psi in any meaningful way. Not saying Wild One is incorrect, I'm just wondering if the cases he saw was a result of a specific cooler/setup in use, or if all coolers on a hemi 5.7 can expect X drop in PSI etc.
I mean if you Google oil cooler pressure drop you’re going to find tons of examples. I can’t give you specifics on expected pressure drop as there are too many variables involved.

Just go with big lines and a big cooler if you’re willing to pay for it and it’ll fit.

Personally, it’s adding up too quickly for me. All the options I would consider are $500 plus. That’s 11 oil changes,
 

Hydrasport23

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If you are sure the lifters have an issue, replacing them is the only fix. The cam lobe has either delaminated or a lifter has a roller or roller bearing failure. Pull the valve covers and look for slack in the valve train. Don't wait until you have more damage and send more metal through the engine. You will not reset the valve lash as these engines do not have an adjustable rocker setup.
I don't know why you are running "0" weight oil in a hot climate.
I replaced the lifters and oil pump with the Mellings products. Very good replacement parts. Used an OEM VVT Mopar cam, deleted the MDS system and plugged the solenoids. Added a tune and shorty headers while I was making these repairs to eliminate future exhaust bolt issues. If you want to keep the MDS system, do it because the MDS lifters/system are not the cause of the lifter failure. I lost both MDS and non MDS lifters in my engine. I pulled the oil pan and windage tray to clean the bottom end of any metal debris.
Changing cooling fans will not lower your operating engine temps until you get more airflow or set the electric fans to operate at a lower temp. My 2013 (5.7) has both electric and mechanical fan. I installed a 180 thermostat. Engine runs at 192, even when towing.
 
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