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I’ve only noticed a slight loss of mpg it went from 12.8-9 to down 12.1-3 and I have no lights or anything but sides 2 compared to driving in city from my old job, I thought it improve but went down slightly instead.
I removed the inner fender, my truck is lifted so I got plenty of clearance even with the wheel in there, I tried doing soapy water on the studs and didn’t see any bubbles on the studs, but the heat shield is in the way for further inspection, I also didn’t notice any black residue on the top but I can’t clearly see the bottom, but I’m doing a thicker oil change like suggested and see if I notice a quieter tick/ disappearance of it after the oil change. If no sound difference I’m removing the manifold and inspecting for a crack/ gasket failure.
drive.google.com
Is yours a lifter or exhaust leak? Cause mine doesn’t sound like that at start, mine sounds like a fast tick on start up then slows down to a steady tick.I got one for you this truck only has 33k miles and is a 15 just using dealer oil changes. I’ve had them check the manifolds at oil changes before as in winter it def sounds louder to me.
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How are you guys posting videos I figured I could directly in the site I guess not.
So you could view that video?
Yah I heard it and watched it
Roger that, to be honest when I did the manifold the gasket and bolt replacement, and one thing I didn’t check to see if it was warped by taking a ruler against see if it was flush going across. The only thing I didn’t use oem was the bolts but i used oem gasket that I got from the dealership but didn’t replace the manifold itself.What kind of manifold gaskets were used when they repaired it last, were the manifolds machined flat, I would use Remflex gaskets when you take it apart.
MOPAR Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket
REMFLEX EXHAUST GASKETS are extra thick and compressable. REMFLEX gaskets fill voids on warped header flanges and exhaust manifolds. REMFLEX gaskets are good to 3000 degrees. REMFLEX gaskets won't burn out. No retorquing required with REMFLEX GASKETS.catalog.remflex.com
If you replace the manifold with new they will warp again, (and really **** you off, or it would me anyway) I believe the preferred protocol is to take the warped manifold, have them machined flat, and reinstall those. The warping has been done and they have a flat contact surface. Should be good in that environment for the life of the truck.
Okay that’s good to know! I mean I would only replace it if I see any cracks or damage to it. But if that is my issue I might go with jba manifolds, which are top quality and change the bolts so I never have the issue again which I’m hoping. Some people say the jba manifolds are what saved them from ever dealing with broken studs/ bolts or manifold issues.
So instead of using the redline I went with 5w 30 royal purple synthetic, along with filter and this is what it sounds like now, I hear no difference. I accidentally read your message wrong and thought you typed in royal purple oil but I’ve heard royal purple is good as well so I went with that lol. So my next step is taking off the manifold and seeing what’s wrong with it. https://youtube.com/shorts/aRE-qhEv5us?feature=share
That’s from a drip from when I was doing the oil change, thought it caught it before it dripped down but apparently not. It does not get quieter on warm up. I’ve also changed my oil to 5w 30 full synthetic as well with royal purple filter see if there would be a sound difference or go away nonthing changed. My only option left is to remove the manifold and check the gasket and for cracks. If that doesn’t solve it well I would have no idea what else other then the lifter
Ahh, I only caught the shine, Should've said that instead of drip.
That’s how mine got when I replaced them both 2 years ago they got to the point where it would tick even warmed up. I’m just hoping it’s the manifold at this point.
Gents: passing on my recent "tick" experience for my '15 Ram 1500 Hemi (66K miles) - changed the oil to Redline 5W30 and a RP 10-48 filter, it still ticks for a couple minutes when first fired up from cool engine, but then the tick disappears until the next cool engine start. Assume this means a lifter issue? Does this mean I need a cam & lifter replacement? Thx
When your engine is cold, reach in through the wheel wells and grab the heat shield at the corners and see if they are loose. If so, exhaust manifolt bolts are broken.
I would assume that it would be a lifter if it only ticks for afew minutes cause oil needs to flow thru, but did it do that before you changed your oil? If so it sounds like a exhaust leak. Mine stays no matter what I changed my oil to 5w 30 royal purple Full synthetic along with the filter and that **** didn’t change **** for me lol
never needs replacement until you get a p0300 range mis fire code, then you need to verify. Try a 20820 rp filter next time if you can. Did the tick chnage with redline at all, or always the same? If it is the same could be bolts.
