NightReaper
Senior Member
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2015
- Posts
- 128
- Reaction score
- 63
- Location
- Tampa, FL
- Ram Year
- 2018 Night Sport Crew
- Engine
- 5.7 Hemi
Mine are also the mix of piano and matte black for what it’s worth.
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****** positioning at work - the wall is about 27-30ft from the truck. I don’t have a proper flat wall to show the beam. Notice the major difference between the two sides.
I have a 2012 but I'm using the Retroshop harness that i had my projectors on if that matters.
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The fact that the lower strip dims with the turn signal in DRL mode is a function of the driver in the headlights themselves that drives the turn signal, parking light, and DRL circuits. The adapter harness would have nothing to do with it, as it carries all the necessary circuits to run the headlights lights, just transferring them to a different connector. Doesn’t matter what year truck, either. If the lower strip is truly not dimming with the turn signal on in DRL only mode, then that would be a defect of the driver in the headlights.That might have something to do with the harness then.
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The fact that the lower strip dims with the turn signal in DRL mode is a function of the driver in the headlights themselves that drives the turn signal, parking light, and DRL circuits. The adapter harness would have nothing to do with it, as it carries all the necessary circuits to run the headlights lights, just transferring them to a different connector. Doesn’t matter what year truck, either. If the lower strip is truly not dimming with the turn signal on in DRL only mode, then that would be a defect of the driver in the headlights.
Yeah that’s extremely F’ed up. I’d be getting those replaced for sure. Like I said they are extremely easy to get along with. Only real headache will be when they ask you for the serial number on the back of the housing. I have taken the front off of these trucks so many times now that I can get it done in 10 minutes. It’s just very annoying to have to do it for stupid numbers.
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With the fuse tap (which I’m assuming he’s using), the bottom led strip will dim when the turn signal is being used in DRL mode. This has been established. Correct?Read higher up. Just the fuse tap alone will cause the DRLs to act differently with the turn signals vs the behavior of the dealer activated DRLs. The Morimoto harness vs the factory harness can also play a factor in how the DRLs act. Especially considering there is less wiring in the Morimoto harness.
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I'm not concerned - if they make me take them off for the serial numbers, I'm more than likely not putting them back on, especially if they give me hassle with replacements. I'll gladly take a refund as I have a retrofitted projector set with Diode Dynamic goodies that had untouchable performance with the FX-r projectors. I'll be more than happy with them. It's a shame because the DRL functionality is beautiful.
I'm not concerned - if they make me take them off for the serial numbers, I'm more than likely not putting them back on, especially if they give me hassle with replacements. I'll gladly take a refund as I have a retrofitted projector set with Diode Dynamic goodies that had untouchable performance with the FX-r projectors. I'll be more than happy with them. It's a shame because the DRL functionality is beautiful.
With the fuse tap (which I’m assuming he’s using), the bottom led strip will dim when the turn signal is being used in DRL mode. This has been established. Correct?
He’s saying his do not dim.
The Morimoto adapter harness is taking four circuits (highs, lows, turns, parking) that are spread out over two connectors, and merge them into one connector. That’s it. A projector equipped truck has three other circuits that a quad trucks don’t have (DRL, fault sense, and shutter relay), but they are irrelevant to the XBs because they are designed to work without them.
When the fuse tap is used to run the DRLs, they are completely separated from the truck’s headlight circuits and the headlight switch. They are just an accessory light just like a light bar that would be wired to turn on when the truck is started. Using a light bar as an example- when the turn signal is turned on, that light bar won’t react, because the BCM doesn’t recognize it as a function of the headlights/turn signals. For all the BCM knows, it could be a phone charger, or some other accessory that tapped into that fuse. So, since the BCM can’t recognize the XB DRLs when the turn signal is on, a driver is built inside the XB headlights for it that says “when the turn signal is on, dim the lower strip”, or “if this connector is unplugged, make the turn signal sequential, and when it’s plugged in, make the turn signal standard”, and “when the parking lights or headlights are on, don’t dim the lower strip”.
All that being said, if he’s using the fuse tap, and the DRLs are on, and he hits the turn signal, and the lower strip does not dim, then that driver is not functioning properly. It’s either that, or everyone else’s that do dim with the fuse tap are not functioning properly.
Well, if you’re not going to read what I explained, then you’re not going to understand why they’re not working the way they’re supposed to. Bottom line- there’s only two scenarios for the DRLs. Fuse tap- lower strip dims with turn signal.Okay I wasn’t expecting a story book and I’m too tired and don’t care enough to read all that, but you basically said it yourself. The drl wiring isn’t there in the Morimoto housings. Therefore the DRLs will not act the same (even though they still work) when activating the signals because the circuits are different. The truck is sending circuits to the housings. Obviously the Morimoto harness and the stock harness are going to send different circuits to the housings.
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Well, if you’re not going to read what I explained, then you’re not going to understand why they’re not working the way they’re supposed to. Bottom line- there’s only two scenarios for the DRLs. Fuse tap- lower strip dims with turn signal.
Using the DRL circuit with factory DRLs enabled- upper and lower strip will completely shut off with turn signal.
Neither of which is happening for him.
He has a quad equipped truck. He’s using an adapter harness to convert his truck’s quad connectors to a connector that plugs into projector headlights. If he removes that conversion harness that he’s been using, then he’s going to have to use the one that comes with the XB headlights, which is the same thing as the one he removed. It’s got the same two connectors that plug into the truck connectors, the same connector that plugs into the factory projector/XB connector, the same wires, and a resistor for the turns/parking lights (who’s only job is to stop errors and hyperflash). The conversion harness that comes with the XBs does not magically add any of the extra circuits to the BCM that are on a projector equipped truck. This is not what I believe, it is fact.You can believe whatever you want to believe. More power to ya. But I’m willing to bet that if he uses the factory harness the DRLs will shut off or dim when the signal is activated. There will be the appropriate circuit going to the circuit board to tell the diodes what to do. Have a good night. It’s beyond my bed time.
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He has a quad equipped truck. He’s using an adapter harness to convert his truck’s quad connectors to a connector that plugs into projector headlights. If he removes that conversion harness that he’s been using, then he’s going to have to use the one that comes with the XB headlights, which is the same thing as the one he removed. It’s got the same two connectors that plug into the truck connectors, the same connector that plugs into the factory projector/XB connector, the same wires, and a resistor for the turns/parking lights (who’s only job is to stop errors and hyperflash). The conversion harness that comes with the XBs does not magically add any of the extra circuits to the BCM that are on a projector equipped truck. This is not what I believe, it is fact.
Easy fellas. We all have the same goal here...
In my case, it appears my ballasts have been out of place from the start from factory (whether or not this was an error made in assembly or something else) TRS will be sending me out a replacement set to resolve the issue.
It’s more obvious when you’re looking for a particular flaw than not.
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Now that mine have been in for about 30 days with reasonable run time I can look them over. See if there any bubbling from light exposure like some have stated.Easy fellas. We all have the same goal here...
In my case, it appears my ballasts have been out of place from the start from factory (whether or not this was an error made in assembly or something else) TRS will be sending me out a replacement set to resolve the issue.
It’s more obvious when you’re looking for a particular flaw than not.
View attachment 168997
That thing looks like it isn’t even connected. Does it shutter when you hit bumps?
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It would make sense on why it doesn’t seem like any adjustment takes place. Honestly I have not noticed any shakes or violent movents of the light when I’m hitting uneven surfaces. They very well maybe fixed this way inside.