Need an Opinion

[Burla]

dealer wanted $375 for an OEM battery. Bought one at wally world for under $200 with a 4 year warranty and slightly higher cranking amps.

The dealer OEM battery for e-torque is 1600 bucks, it is a 48 volt not like your 12v. I'm not even sure if you can get anything other then OEM battery for this, I know eBay sells them used for large dollars as well. I don't know why anyone would buy a used e-torque battery.

 

[Dusty]

Need your advice. 2021 Ram Longhorn w/5.7 e torque. Didn't know what e torque was when I bought it new. I have 39,000 miles on it. Few weeks ago while driving home on the hwy the truck just shut off. I coasted to the side of the road put it in park and it started right up so I drove home. Few days later I pulled into my garage while still in drive, foot on the brake the horn honked, windshield wipers started up and the 4 way flashers started blinking. Couldn't turn anything off at this point. Turned the engine off and re started it. Everything was back to normal, but I'm concerned. Next day went out to check for codes -0- codes. check battery voltage 11.6 checked while running 14.6 volts. Put new battery in and everything seems to be ok now. My worries are down the road..I'm 75, this is our only vehicle and I'm thinking of dumping it for a SUV. Don't really need the truck at our age but hate to spend a bunch of dough on a different vehicle. I guess what I'm asking is can I expect a bunch of trouble down the road or ditch it now? Thanks for any input....

Since it has a new battery, drive it for awhile. The symptoms you described match a defective battery.

This scenario is quite common to most vehicles nowadays, so going to another vehicle may just present some new set of problems for you.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 146452 miles.

 

[BobinTX]

I had a similar situation last week with my '21 RAM 1500 Laramie 4x4 Crew Cab 5.7L eTorque with 37,000 miles, original factory battery. Went to start it, one click, no turnover. Tried again, nothing. Got out my portable jump starter, hooked it up, the EVIC inside the truck started spewing all kinds of unrelated messages like, Not in Park, 4x4 Maintenance Due, etc. and a couple of hard "clicks", like a piece of metal hitting glass, came from behind the dash. But the truck started and ran fine, although the "check engine" light came on. I immediately drove to O'Reilly's Auto Parts (about 3 miles), turned it off, it started back up with no issue. They tested the main battery...it came back as "Bad". Replaced it with their best AGM 4 year full replacement Super Start model for $259. Runs like a top again, "check engine" light gone without a code reader, no worries.

Bottom line, your 12V engine battery is critical for everything else to operate properly, including eTorque. I love my RAM and wouldn't trade it for that reason alone. All vehicles need the battery replaced every 3-5 years anyway. If your battery was the factory battery like mine was, it was due for replacement. I got 5 good years out of mine, and was grateful it lasted that long, but knew it was getting close to replacement time. If you love your RAM, keep it. The eTorque is not the problem, keep your main battery in good shape.

 

[farout75]

Need your advice. 2021 Ram Longhorn w/5.7 e torque. Didn't know what e torque was when I bought it new. I have 39,000 miles on it. Few weeks ago while driving home on the hwy the truck just shut off. I coasted to the side of the road put it in park and it started right up so I drove home. Few days later I pulled into my garage while still in drive, foot on the brake the horn honked, windshield wipers started up and the 4 way flashers started blinking. Couldn't turn anything off at this point. Turned the engine off and re started it. Everything was back to normal, but I'm concerned. Next day went out to check for codes -0- codes. check battery voltage 11.6 checked while running 14.6 volts. Put new battery in and everything seems to be ok now. My worries are down the road..I'm 75, this is our only vehicle and I'm thinking of dumping it for a SUV. Don't really need the truck at our age but hate to spend a bunch of dough on a different vehicle. I guess what I'm asking is can I expect a bunch of trouble down the road or ditch it now? Thanks for any input....

I have a 19 RAM Limited. Never used the E torgue untl 20, 000 miles ago. I rally like it gets 1 tp 2 mpg better and the engine never shuts off, juts a slow idel. I sure wished I had used it a long tine ago!

 

[stevenP]

I have had similar issues with other newer vehicles, that were not RAM trucks. There is no rhyme or reason for these batteries to die sometimes. I am older and retired so I dont drive as much as I used to. So everything I own gets a battery tender hooked to it, when not in use. With all of the electronics in these newer vehicles theres a lot to parasitic draw that can either be chronic or just a glitch.

 

[Randy Grant]

Get rid of that e torque poc, which SUV though? What size SUV are you looking at. I would guess you don't want a forerunner that is a step up vehicle, so you want a low full sized or entry level? Narrow down so we can give some suggestions on your last vehicle. My wife just got her last SUV a Toyota cross.

His issue may have absolutely nothing to do with E Torque. You may hate it, but don't blame everything on it. It is most likely a computer issue, but until it is diagnosed at the dealer, who knows.

 

[Randy Grant]

The dealer OEM battery for e-torque is 1600 bucks, it is a 48 volt not like your 12v. I'm not even sure if you can get anything other then OEM battery for this, I know eBay sells them used for large dollars as well. I don't know why anyone would buy a used e-torque battery.

The E Torque truck has TWO batteries. A 12v battery that energizes the truck electronics, starter, etc., and the 48v that operates the MGU (MotorGeneratorUnit) which it tied to the stop/start system. He is not talking about the 48v battery.

 

[Randy Grant]

When you say " I need an opinion" on these forums, the can of worms opened gets pretty awesome. I love it, but the wife not so much. Says I scare her when I laugh like that.

 

[Grams]

OP never came back. E-torq haters and lovers bicker bicker bicker

Solution: Get a diesel so you’ll have something to REALLy bicker about.

 

[Docwagon1776]

You guys are seriously telling a *75 year old* to ditch a 4 year old truck he bought new and has had no problems until now with because he had to change the battery? JFC.

 

[Grams]

You guys are seriously telling a *75 year old* to ditch a 4 year old truck he bought new and has had no problems until now with because he had to change the battery? JFC.

Yeah that’s good observation. I’m 77 and agree…. by this age…. a simple battery-change shouldn’t be a difficult decision.

 

[stevieb92]

When I bought my 2024 Ram, I read about all of these OEM battery failures, so I pre-emptively bought an Odyssey H8 and sold my practically new OEM battery. So glad I got rid of that potential problem. The Odyssey has been fantastic!

 

[KeithP]

I have a 19 RAM Limited. Never used the E torgue untl 20, 000 miles ago. I rally like it gets 1 tp 2 mpg better and the engine never shuts off, juts a slow idel. I sure wished I had used it a long tine ago!

Ummm what? If your truck has eTorque you can’t not use it. You can shut off the stop/start feature but that’s only associated with the eTorque b/c Ram chose to use the MGU to spin the engine to restart rather than the conventional starter.

An eTorque truck has a MGU (motor generator unit) instead of an alternator. The MGU produces 48v which supplies a 48v battery that’s located behind the rear seat. The 12v battery then receives its charge via the 48v battery. The 12v battery is only used for your initial start up and keeps the instruments and blower fan operating while you’re temporarily stopped. The MGU pulls power from the 48v battery to restart the engine when you release the brake to move again after your temporary stop.

The MGU is in generator mode in normal driving conditions. It goes into motor mode to restart the engine and, when it detects the engine is under heavy load ito add some extra torque. It goes into regeneration mode when you’re slowing down which in turn acts as an engine brake reducing wear on brakes. You cannot turn any of this off.

 

[DanAR]

One of the allegations for the cam and lifter failures is that the Hemi has a poor valve train oiling system and at idle gets virtually no benefit from splash oiling (and apparently not a lot above idle too). Excessive idling is recommended against. So tolerate or hate the stop/start mode, I figure for most city, stoplight to stoplight, traveling it’s a good idea to tolerate it and let it do its thing and minimize idling. Just my logic.

 

[G-Ride990]

My opinion was based on the fact that OP is in his 70s and is interested in an SUV too. I think it makes sense in his situation to just ditch it and get what he really wants.

Personally, I would keep driving it. Failing batteries cause all sorts of odd behavior as we all well know.

Etorque has been pretty reliable from what I have seen.

 

[suicideking]

Not the same problem... I had a problem with my '23 (bought new in April of '24) not starting every now and then. AAA tested the battery and said it was fine, no bulging, etc. This was at about 7K miles.

The dealer replaced the battery. I haven't had the problem since (around 1.5 years ago). So I figure it had been sitting that long before being purchased. When I went to test drive it, they had it running. So might have had to jump start it.

 

[Bighorn_Brown]

Your issues were from a bad battery. These trucks are very sensitive to battery condition. It had nothing to do with the eTorque system. By asking for advice in this post your going to find there are many eTorque haters who will take any opportunity to trash talk the system. I have a 2022 with 54k miles and so far zero issues with the eTorque system. I was recently asked if I would by another eTorque truck. I said yes, although I would prefer Ram would eliminate the system on their trucks. It is a complex system with minimal benefit. I certainly would not trade mine off just for the sake of getting rid of the eTorque system though. If an SUV would better serve your needs and it’s within your budget then by all means do what serves you best.

I agree. Of course, I’m also a 2024 eTorque owner. Had a 2016 Expedition that did crazy things from a bad battery. Actually, my Ram did some crazy stuff due to a low/ dying battery.

I travel for work, so there’s times when my truck might sit in the garage for 4-6 weeks at a time. Came back from one trip and noticed when starting the truck it would turn over, and begin to run really rough for approximately 3-5secs. Almost like it was about to stall from being starved of fuel, air, or spark. Then, all of a sudden the idle would smooth out.

Afterwards, it would start fine… up until the point where it sat again. Turns out it was the battery. New battery and no problems. Kinda weird, but understandable with all the electronics in automobiles these days.

One poster suggested you keep your Ram as all these newer are slammed with fancy sensitive electronics. Heck, same thing happened to the Expedition, so it’s not an eTorque isolated incident. Could happen to any vehicle. Nothing you described screams eTorque was solely to blame in my opinion.

 

[Docwagon1776]

I agree. Of course, I’m also a 2024 eTorque owner. Had a 2016 Expedition that did crazy things from a bad battery. Actually, my Ram did some crazy stuff due to a low/ dying battery.

I travel for work, so there’s times when my truck might sit in the garage for 4-6 weeks at a time. Came back from one trip and noticed when starting the truck it would turn over, and begin to run really rough for approximately 3-5secs. Almost like it was about to stall from being starved of fuel, air, or spark. Then, all of a sudden the idle would smooth out.

Afterwards, it would start fine… up until the point where it sat again. Turns out it was the battery. New battery and no problems. Kinda weird, but understandable with all the electronics in automobiles these days.

One poster suggested you keep your Ram as all these newer are slammed with fancy sensitive electronics. Heck, same thing happened to the Expedition, so it’s not an eTorque isolated incident. Could happen to any vehicle. Nothing you described screams eTorque was solely to blame in my opinion.

My 2011 Camaro goes nuts if the battery is too low. "Service stabilitrak" message on the dash is how I knew it was about to be dead. I keep it on a tender but it sits for months at a time because winter exists and our roads are horrible well into spring. It's not got half the tech the current cars have, but still won't tolerate low voltage.

 

[DanAR]

Shouting “E-torque” has become the Stellantis automotive equivalent of shouting “squirrel” to divert attention from real issues. Solid state electronics in most cases require certain voltage thresholds for proper function. Unfortunately modern batteries have a poor reputation for quality and any unintended micro-amperage draw in all the electronics and computers of one of these just magnifies the issue

 

[JG458]

I personally had a 2020 Limited with storage with over 11K on it with 0 issues associated to torque.

I did preemptively change the battery at about 4 1/2 years as the truck seemed to be turning over slower than normal.