Need to increase my payload, help!

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Joshua Mangini

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2016 big horn... I have a large travel trailer. If I have my whole family in my truck I'll be slightly over capacity with the bed empty. Besides tires and springs, what's my weakest link to increase my gvwr?
 

NorZeman

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This should be fun
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Loudram

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Your payload rating is what it is and it can't be changed. You can add stiffer springs, air bags, whatever you want to get it to handle and haul better but that won't legally change your payload rating or gvwr.

I feel your pain. I have 1500lb payload and 1100lb tongue on my trailer. I'm very careful about what I load in truck for camping.
 

VernDiesel

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You cannot change your GVWR however you can raise your available payload. You can remove your tailgate and your spare. This frees up about 120 pounds of available payload before reaching the same gvwr. Spare can often be relocated into your trailer.

All this said the far more important focus as far as setting up a safe stable tow and in fact in staying within your Mfgr limits is proper weight distribution found and maximized by using a CAT scale, WDH, and smart loading of both your trailer and your truck.

Set primary goals of replacing your unloaded steer weight and getting your WDH CAT scaled tongue weight toward 12.0 percent of gross trailer weight.

This will mean FAR more for the safety & stability for your family and stress free drive ability towing for you then any focus on payload stickers or stacking up guesstimates of payload weight as many parrot on any forums with these questions.
 

Tim7139

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what's my weakest link to increase my gvwr?
The equity loss on your trade in.

I feel you pain. My SSV was limited because it left the factory with steel wheels instead of Aluminum. After swapping them my truck was just as mechanically capable as a truck that left the factory with Aluminum rims, but there was still a legal difference.

The provence I live in and my insurer are likely to be lenient. In other regions, like B.C., there is no tolerance or allowance for logic.
 
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smurfs_of_war

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The equity loss on your trade in.

I feel you pain. My SSV was limited because it left the factory with steel wheels instead of Aluminum. After swapping them my truck was just as mechanically capable as a truck that left the factory with Aluminum rims, but there was still a legal difference.

The provence I live in and my insurer are likely to be lenient. In other regions, like B.C., there is no tolerance or allowance for logic.
Yeah, B.C. has always stood for 'Bring Cash'
 

Tim7139

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Yeah, B.C. has always stood for 'Bring Cash'

On my last trip through I saw they were puling over F150s and 1500s with sled decks to check stickers and weights.

Only place in Canada I've seen a ticket for 91 in a 90 ticket upheld in court after presenting repair bill showing speedo was 2% off!
 

NH RAM

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I appreciate everyone's input... Sounds like I need to start saving my pennies fora 2500.
What's the size and weight of the TT? Realistically, yes, you'll want to upgrade to stay within the legal limits of the truck as the 1500 gets maxed out pretty quickly. I had a hard time even with wdh not having an overloaded rear axle on my 1500 with a TT and the truck loaded with the family. I got rid of my 2016 Big Horn this year for my current 2500. If you're considering a 6.4 Ram, the 8 speed is worth it as there's no large gap in the transmission gears like there is on the 6 speed. A 5.7 powered 2500 was never an option (for me) for towing, it's just a dog that's made worse by the wrong transmission.
Good Luck!
 

GsRAM

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I appreciate everyone's input... Sounds like I need to start saving my pennies fora 2500.

What is your loaded trailer weight or trailer gvwr? What is its length overall?
Those are numbers we need to know before we can give you any real (good) advice.

You may or may not be in 2500 territory, we need details on your trailer.

Your question about payload has been answered. I personally wouldn't worry about exceeding that so long as your under GRAWR when fully loaded, ready to head out camping. Good luck. More info please :)
 

NewBlackDak

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I appreciate everyone's input... Sounds like I need to start saving my pennies fora 2500.

If you live in an area with sticky weight rules, be careful on a 2500 too. A well optioned Cummins will have your official payload numbers not far off the half ton. It’s far more capable than that, but the ClassII truck 10K lb limit causes the official numbers to be lower.


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GsRAM

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If you live in an area with sticky weight rules, be careful on a 2500 too. A well optioned Cummins will have your official payload numbers not far off the half ton. It’s far more capable than that, but the ClassII truck 10K lb limit causes the official numbers to be lower.


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Yes, exactly. That's one reason why I'd personally opt for a 3500 srw if I ever buy a Cummins powered truck
 

18CrewDually

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Only place in Canada I've seen a ticket for 91 in a 90 ticket upheld in court after presenting repair bill showing speedo was 2% off!

Well when the defendant brings evidence against himself proving and admitting he was speeding do to his faulty equipment I'm not surprised at the guilty outcome. Kind of funny really.
 

mtofell

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If you live in an area with sticky weight rules, be careful on a 2500 too. A well optioned Cummins will have your official payload numbers not far off the half ton. It’s far more capable than that, but the ClassII truck 10K lb limit causes the official numbers to be lower.


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Yeah, a diesel 2500 is kind of a goofy truck. Can pull a house but has a VERY limited payload. I've had more than one argument around the campfire claiming my Hemi has a higher payload than the diesel.
 

GsRAM

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Yeah, a diesel 2500 is kind of a goofy truck. Can pull a house but has a VERY limited payload. I've had more than one argument around the campfire claiming my Hemi has a higher payload than the diesel.

Lol, I'm sure you have. Of course your 100% correct as you know. They (2500/3500 srw) are very similar trucks except for the rear leafs on the 3500. But the masses believe if it's got a diesel under the hood its automatically more capable than a similar gas powered truck. It is in many ways, but payload capacity is not one of them. Ignorance is bliss.
 

michaelrc51

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Lol, I'm sure you have. Of course your 100% correct as you know. They (2500/3500 srw) are very similar trucks except for the rear leafs on the 3500. But the masses believe if it's got a diesel under the hood its automatically more capable than a similar gas powered truck. It is in many ways, but payload capacity is not one of them. Ignorance is bliss.

I made this mistake. Current 2016 2500 CTD limited mega cab has a payload of 1800lbs!
I bought this truck 14 months ago, only to learn a 2500 is a useless truck unless your just hauling groceries. My 16.5k lbs (GVWR) is to large so I'm currently searching for a 2018 dually in similar trim but dealers are trying to **** me.

OP - do yourself a favor, buy a 3500.

It's amazing how many people out there who tow pretty heavy things have no clue about what the actual numbers are and how they are applied, especially in the camper world!
 

HDGoose

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My 2013 RAM 2500 Tradesman diesel cc sb 4x4 had 2400 payload. My 12k max 5th wheel and truck was the full fuel and three people weighed 21,400. And I was under axle weights, gross combined, and I have my 2500 tagged for 11k.

Knowing I was operating about 90 of rated capacity of the 2500, I bought a 3500 DRW to handle my next trailer.

Because of my size, most upper trims do not fit me because seats seem are higher, and the sunroof lowers head room.

On the 2500s, Tradesman trims have 400-600 more payload. On the 3500s, I found 800-1200 pound differences in payload.

I've seen the regular cab 2500s with 4000 payload. 3500 DRW regular cab over 7000. But I no longer desire a regular cab.

The amount of stuff in the upper trim levels of 2500/3500 is amazingly heavy for some reason.
 
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tron67j

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I have had 2 in a row 2500 CC, 5.7&6.4. Have worked perfectly for me. I looked at 3500 SRW but the extra spring (believe that is only difference) made the ride a bit stiffer empty. Depends on what you will be doing with truck. Buy it like a screwdriver, if you need a flat head, getting a Phillips won't work. Figure out your payload and trailer weight, allow 15% grace, and spend the money you need to so that you are safe and not driving more/less truck than you need.
 

dhay13

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I towed our boat home yesterday with my truck. Boat and trailer as it sits is a little over 9000lbs, maybe closer to 9500. Truck doesn't even know it's there.
I know those weights are very close because I scaled it last year with all tanks empty and I think the boat and trailer was about 8800. Coming home yesterday I had about 40-50 gallons of fuel in the boat and about 10-15 gallons of fresh water so add about another 400lbs or so to the 8800 from last year. Also had the fridge full of drinks and a few other odds and ends that weren't in it last year.

EDIT: Just unhooked the boat and my rear wheel well raised just a hair over an inch. It was just a bit over 42" and was slightly over 43" after unhooking it. I have about 750-800lbs of tongue weight. and I was parked slightly downhill so that would have added a little to the tongue weight but probably not much.
 
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