New here

[Ramcountrygurl]

Hi everyone, I’m new here. I am the female owner of a 2015, 1500 tradesmen 3.6 L and I have no idea how to create a post to get some help with the lightning bolt service electronic control module for my truck. You would seem I don’t have permission to do a lot of things on this forum.

So I don’t know how to post a discussion about the trouble codes that I’m getting from a cheap scan tool which are U1110,U1412, U11BC, U0121. I’ve read through other posts, but it seems the ones they’re about the Cummings and I don’t have one. I am a single 52 year-old woman trying to learn about my truck and how I can do some repairs myself if possible. I do see recommendations for others with the Cummings, to get it put on a professional scan tool, which is $200 at the ram dealership near me and I’m hoping that it’s a fuse I can replace or something simple.

 

[rule18]

@Ramcountrygurl Welcome to RamForum. Actually, you just started a thread and made the post. I'm going to move this thread into the 4th Gen section, you'll get more views and replies. When you're in a Forum (let's say 4th Gen), and want to starrt a new thread, look for this button in the top right area of your screen:

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Hi everyone, I’m new here. I am the female owner of a 2015, 1500 tradesmen 3.6 L and I have no idea how to create a post to get some help with the lightning bolt service electronic control module for my truck. You would seem I don’t have permission to do a lot of things on this forum.

So I don’t know how to post a discussion about the trouble codes that I’m getting from a cheap scan tool which are U1110,U1412, U11BC, U0121. I’ve read through other posts, but it seems the ones they’re about the Cummings and I don’t have one. I am a single 52 year-old woman trying to learn about my truck and how I can do some repairs myself if possible. I do see recommendations for others with the Cummings, to get it put on a professional scan tool, which is $200 at the ram dealership near me and I’m hoping that it’s a fuse I can replace or something simple.

Welcome from Ontario, Canada.

 

[GTyankee]

I see that your Trouble Codes, all begin with U

U - Generic OBD-II Network Codes, ( Communication )

Almost everything in your Ram that is Electric, Communicates with other Electric Parts, like the Computer, which is called a CPU

So to make the explanation shorter,
1 or more electric thing communicates with other electric things.
If you have a broken wire, or soldered joint, or maybe a bad fuse, there can be no communication.

U1110 = Engine Control Module (ECM) has lost communication with the vehicle speed sensor.

https://www.engine-codes.com/u1110_jeep.html

could be Jeep or Ram truck
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read this

again a Speed Sensor Communication fault

https://www.engine-codes.com/search_codes.php?q=U0121

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read this, another Speed Sensor fault

https://www.engine-codes.com/search_codes.php?q=U1412

----------------------------------------------
read this

Brake Switch Code

https://www.engine-codes.com/search_codes.php?q=U11BC

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[SitKneelBend]

Hi everyone, I’m new here. I am the female owner of a 2015, 1500 tradesmen 3.6 L and I have no idea how to create a post to get some help with the lightning bolt service electronic control module for my truck. You would seem I don’t have permission to do a lot of things on this forum.

So I don’t know how to post a discussion about the trouble codes that I’m getting from a cheap scan tool which are U1110,U1412, U11BC, U0121. I’ve read through other posts, but it seems the ones they’re about the Cummings and I don’t have one. I am a single 52 year-old woman trying to learn about my truck and how I can do some repairs myself if possible. I do see recommendations for others with the Cummings, to get it put on a professional scan tool, which is $200 at the ram dealership near me and I’m hoping that it’s a fuse I can replace or something simple.

To pile on what @GTyankee said, those are communication errors for devices on you vehicles CANBUS (essentially the vehicles computer/module network). If this is the first time AND the vehicle is otherwise running fine, I would first clear these codes since you already have made note of them and see if they come back. Sometimes a one off electrical issue can cause these codes to store or more commonly if a battery is going bad these communication issues can occur too. Does the vehicle appear to operate normally otherwise?

 

[Ramcountrygurl]

I tried that a month ago and it came back. I should’ve mentioned that sorry. I do not see any other issues with it except, if the lightning bolt is on, it runs fine if the lightning bolt hasn’t yet come on I’m not getting very good acceleration, kind of like sputtering a little and the speedometer, gas, and RPM do not work until the lightning bolt comes on. That’s odd to me. The check engine light came on as well. When it first started, the left tail light went out at the same exact time that lightning bolt came on. The I was given another warning after replacing the bulb that the tail light was out, but it wasn’t and then it stopped giving that indicator.

I’ve been driving it like this a lot for a month because it runs fine once the lightning bolt comes on, which is usually within five minutes of starting it. The check engine light stays on and that didn’t happen until the lightning bolt showed up. Also, I’ve had an ABS light on for three months but I don’t really care about ABS and it’s not affecting the ride or the drive and I don’t drive it like a little car.

I wanna check the fuses, but I haven’t found a diagram for my year and model. That’s the exact same as the fuse box under my hood. Unless of course it’s impossible for it to be a fuse then I will take it to the dealership. I’m not a mechanic. I’m not trying to be a serious mechanic. I’m an oil change, brake pads and tire rotation, girl.

If yall think I need to take it somewhere to get it checked out then that’s exactly what I’ll do. I don’t wanna keep driving it The distances that I am and potentially causing other harm, but it’s my daily driver so it’s important to take care of it.

I really appreciate this forum and all that I’ve read and I appreciate y’all‘s help

 

[SitKneelBend]

I tried that a month ago and it came back. I should’ve mentioned that sorry. I do not see any other issues with it except, if the lightning bolt is on, it runs fine if the lightning bolt hasn’t yet come on I’m not getting very good acceleration, kind of like sputtering a little and the speedometer, gas, and RPM do not work until the lightning bolt comes on. That’s odd to me. The check engine light came on as well. When it first started, the left tail light went out at the same exact time that lightning bolt came on. The I was given another warning after replacing the bulb that the tail light was out, but it wasn’t and then it stopped giving that indicator.

I’ve been driving it like this a lot for a month because it runs fine once the lightning bolt comes on, which is usually within five minutes of starting it. The check engine light stays on and that didn’t happen until the lightning bolt showed up. Also, I’ve had an ABS light on for three months but I don’t really care about ABS and it’s not affecting the ride or the drive and I don’t drive it like a little car.

I wanna check the fuses, but I haven’t found a diagram for my year and model. That’s the exact same as the fuse box under my hood. Unless of course it’s impossible for it to be a fuse then I will take it to the dealership. I’m not a mechanic. I’m not trying to be a serious mechanic. I’m an oil change, brake pads and tire rotation, girl.

If yall think I need to take it somewhere to get it checked out then that’s exactly what I’ll do. I don’t wanna keep driving it The distances that I am and potentially causing other harm, but it’s my daily driver so it’s important to take care of it.

I really appreciate this forum and all that I’ve read and I appreciate y’all‘s help

Have your battery tested first. All of these are the symptoms of a battery on it's way out in our trucks. Places like Autozone will test it for free. If it requires replacement (old or not much rated life left), I recommend something with a pro-rated warranty and spend the extra amount for an AGM battery. The last thing I would recommend is taking it to a dealer to get a battery and/or having anyone troubleshoot this on a battery that is nearing end-of-life (which is generally anything over 4 years in my opinion).

 

[Tom Davis]

Welcome to the forums.

 

[GTyankee]

I would drive to a Independent BRAKE Shop
They will likely be cheaper than a Dealership

3 of the Trouble Codes are for Wheel Sensors

One of the four sensors may have a loose wire or broken sensor

The Brake Switch is by the Brake Pedal & easy to check

Is the Brake Switch possibly connected to the Speed Sensor ??