Noob needs help 6.4L possible lifter and cam

[BurtShaver]

Felpro intake gaskets are alot cheaper then buying them from the dealer Burt.That's if your gasket kit doesn't have them included.

Pardon Our Interruption

Thanks wild one , I’m taking today off from going to the garage. Hopefully get to go through the video’s you’ve sent again and find the ones that pertain to what I still need to do the most, start a list of which gaskets I’m going to need, start writing down torque specs as I come across them, ask any questions that I’m still unsure of, basically just try and get myself organized with a clear direction.
ONE QUESTION, I can think of right now is. Do I work towards taking this cam out now or do I concentrate on getting the hydraulic lifters out first and looking at the cam lobes with a borescope? If I will be taking the cam out for sure, I remember seeing that I will need a puller, I believe some type of 3 finger puller? I will know better once I come across that again in the videos, I will take a screen shot of the puller and try to get it ordered

 

[Wild one]

Thanks wild one , I’m taking today off from going to the garage. Hopefully get to go through the video’s you’ve sent again and find the ones that pertain to what I still need to do the most, start a list of which gaskets I’m going to need, start writing down torque specs as I come across them, ask any questions that I’m still unsure of, basically just try and get myself organized with a clear direction.
ONE QUESTION, I can think of right now is. Do I work towards taking this cam out now or do I concentrate on getting the hydraulic lifters out first and looking at the cam lobes with a borescope? If I will be taking the cam out for sure, I remember seeing that I will need a puller, I believe some type of 3 finger puller? I will know better once I come across that again in the videos, I will take a screen shot of the puller and try to get it ordered

I'd pull the head on the side that has the gap between the rocker arm and pushrod,and pull those lifters,then go from there

 

[Wild one]

This gasket kit will have pretty well every gasket you'll need,but it's not cheap.

2014-2024 Ram Long Block Engine Gasket Kit 68312489AB | Canada Mopar® Estores

2014-2024 Ram Long Block Engine Gasket Kit 68312489AB

store.mopar.ca

 

[BurtShaver]

I’ve watched some more of the video’s today but I still am not sure of a couple things. The next step we said was to get the left bank head off, now, I haven’t taken anything off the front of the engine at all. The only thing I’ve taken off the front is the alternator. Before taking the left head off do I need to take all the stuff off the front? Rad? Fan? Belt tensioner? Water pump? Crank pulley? Timing cover? Or am I able to get the head off without removing any of these items?

 

[Wild one]

I’ve watched some more of the video’s today but I still am not sure of a couple things. The next step we said was to get the left bank head off, now, I haven’t taken anything off the front of the engine at all. The only thing I’ve taken off the front is the alternator. Before taking the left head off do I need to take all the stuff off the front? Rad? Fan? Belt tensioner? Water pump? Crank pulley? Timing cover? Or am I able to get the head off without removing any of these items?

Head will come off without removing anything off the front end.
Watch those tear down video's Burt,as they're a good way to see how the engines can be tore down.

 

[BurtShaver]

thank you, all the videos I’ve watched so far they have taken the stuff off the front first, I do believe I seen one bolt that goes straight through into the head, I will double check and remove it, if need be. Should I drain any fluids before removing the head? Antifreeze? Oil?

 

[Wild one]

thank you, all the videos I’ve watched so far they have taken the stuff off the front first, I do believe I seen one bolt that goes straight through into the head, I will double check and remove it, if need be. Should I drain any fluids before removing the head? Antifreeze? Oil?

Definitely drain the anti-freeze,lol. Make sure you plan an oil change after you have it back together and before you start it.I'd use a cheap oil and filter,and run it for maybe 20 minutes/half hour,then drain it again and use a good oil and filter on the 2nd change.
Don't mix up the heads,they are side specific

 

[BurtShaver]

Definitely drain the anti-freeze,lol. Make sure you plan an oil change after you have it back together and before you start it.I'd use a cheap oil and filter,and run it for maybe 20 minutes/half hour,then drain it again and use a good oil and filter on the 2nd change.
Don't mix up the heads,they are side specific

I have new oil in it now, I had drained it after it started acting up to look for metal flakes. Once/if I get this fixed I will run it for 15 minutes and change it again

 

[Wild one]

I have new oil in it now, I had drained it after it started acting up to look for metal flakes. Once/if I get this fixed I will run it for 15 minutes and change it again

Not sure what you're running for oil,but if it's anything other then Redline,you might want to order a case of Lube Gards Bio Tech engine oil protectant and run a bottle or bottle and half in with your oil.
These guys are the only place i've found in Canada to carry it,it's the blue bottle 4th one down.

Lubegard Products | Edmonton, AB | Can-West Transmission

For quality Lubegard products, Edmonton consumers come to Can-West Transmission Parts. Check out our inventory!

canwesttransmissions.ca

 

[BurtShaver]

I really am sorry for all the questions, I tried to warn everyone with the title of this thread but should I take the spark plugs out before taking the head off? I’m sure they would come off the same either way but what would you do?

 

[BurtShaver]

I really am sorry for all the questions, I tried to warn everyone with the title of this thread but should I take the spark plugs out before taking the head off? I’m sure they would come off the same either way but what would you do?

I see on the video the plugs were left in, I will leave them in to,

 

[BurtShaver]

I didn’t get to much done today, drained the coolant from the rad, took the 2 bolts off for the exhaust, took the 2 rocker tubes off and pulled the push rods out. I thought the top of the one push rod may have been worn irregularly but after looking at a close up of the picture I’m not so sure now, what do you guys think? Should be taking the left head out tomorrow. Do I need to take the bottom rad hose off to drain further? Or is draining the rad sufficient?

 

[Wild one]

View attachment 557559I didn’t get to much done today, drained the coolant from the rad, took the 2 bolts off for the exhaust, took the 2 rocker tubes off and pulled the push rods out. I thought the top of the one push rod may have been worn irregularly but after looking at a close up of the picture I’m not so sure now, what do you guys think? Should be taking the left head out tomorrow. Do I need to take the bottom rad hose off to drain further? Or is draining the rad sufficient?

Hard to tell by the picture,but i think i'd replace that pushrod,the edges on the oil feed hole look a bit worse for wear.
I'd pull the bottom rad hose if you're not pulling the block drains,as there'll still be a bunch of coolant in the block,that's gonna make a mess as soon as you pull the heads..There should be (2) 13mm block drains just above the oil pan,that will drain the block of alot more coolant,then you'll get by just removing the lower rad hose.

 

[BurtShaver]

Hard to tell by the picture,but i think i'd replace that pushrod,the edges on the oil feed hole look a bit worse for wear.
I'd pull the bottom rad hose if you're not pulling the block drains,as there'll still be a bunch of coolant in the block,that's gonna make a mess as soon as you pull the heads..There should be (2) 13mm block drains just above the oil pan,that will drain the block of alot more coolant,then you'll get by just removing the lower rad hose.

I will have a look and see if I can find the block drains, if not I will have some shop towels handy to wipe up quickly.

 

[Wild one]

I will have a look and see if I can find the block drains, if not I will have some shop towels handy to wipe up quickly.

Alot of it will probably end up in the oil pan,lol

 

[BurtShaver]

The valve spring for cylinder 3 exhaust valve was broken. Wish I would have insoected a little better before now but…. I don’t see any broken springs for cylinder 7 and on the one guys scanner it was throwing misfire codes for 3,7 and 8. Should I go ahead take the lifters out of this side to inspect?

 

[BurtShaver]

This is looking better all the time, I took the lifters out of the left bank and all the lifters look fine, they roll fine and look fine for wear, that’s to my eye anyways. What would you recommend from here? As for what to replace?

 

[Wild one]

View attachment 557597This is looking better all the time, I took the lifters out of the left bank and all the lifters look fine, they roll fine and look fine for wear, that’s to my eye anyways. What would you recommend from here? As for what to replace?

The 2 bottom lifters look like they have scuffing on the wheel,if they do replace the cam,as it'll have started to wear to

 

[BurtShaver]

The 2 bottom lifters look like they have scuffing on the wheel,if they do replace the cam,as it'll have started to wear to

Ah shoot, I was getting all excited thinking I had found the problem with the spring in number 3 and was going to get away without changing the cam. Those 2 lifters are from cylinder 1, I didn’t see any scuffing when I was looking at them and rolling them but I can certainly see a difference between them and the rest in the picture. I will get a better look at them maybe tomorrow. I was expecting to see some nasty wear on the lifters for cylinder 3 but I didn’t see any abnormal wear and they rolled nice, no play at all, no noise. I’m going to get Sonny the fellow who was out originally to come have a look at everything to be sure. He was a tech. at Beattie Dodge in Brockville and as my wife would say, maybe with him being a mechanic he might just know better than me. lol.

 

[Wild one]

Ah shoot, I was getting all excited thinking I had found the problem with the spring in number 3 and was going to get away without changing the cam. Those 2 lifters are from cylinder 1, I didn’t see any scuffing when I was looking at them and rolling them but I can certainly see a difference between them and the rest in the picture. I will get a better look at them maybe tomorrow. I was expecting to see some nasty wear on the lifters for cylinder 3 but I didn’t see any abnormal wear and they rolled nice, no play at all, no noise. I’m going to get Sonny the fellow who was out originally to come have a look at everything to be sure. He was a tech. at Beattie Dodge in Brockville and as my wife would say, maybe with him being a mechanic he might just know better than me. lol.

It's tough to tell by a picture,so you're onto to something with having a mechanic look at them close Burt.
Another question is how long do you plan on keeping the truck,if you plan on running it into the ground,now would be the time to do the cam,but if you're gonna get rid of the truck in a year,then you could probably get away with band-aiding it back together with a new spring and a couple new lifters