Oil Filter Thread

[HEMIMANN]

After looking at them, 10-48 being standard size, 20-500 confirmed same diameter but longer, 20-820 is as stated larger diameter, but unsure if longer.

Not sure which of the two bigger has more filter surface area either. I'll just grab the 20-500 as good enough with extra capacity from std.

 

[Burla]

It's on oilfilterdata.com, a database just so people can choose oversized filters and cross reference for options.

There is oversize and undersize options for every application. Normally it wouldn't matter, but with hemis every little bit counts.

 

[NY Andrew]

RP 10-48 was good but that’s the old version and can’t seem to find any online now.

RP 10-47 is new version and it’s not good I made a post about it, surprised this subpar manufacturing practice is still being recommended here. I liked 10-48 and all seemed well but knowing what I know now about it, whenever I finally finish my surplus, going to BOSS Purolator.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...0-47!!!!.158743/&share_type=t&link_source=app

 

[HEMIMANN]

It's on oilfilterdata.com, a database just so people can choose oversized filters and cross reference for options.

There is oversize and undersize options for every application. Normally it wouldn't matter, but with hemis every little bit counts.

Handy database.

Database's filter capacity is stated in displacement - is not the filter area, only the canister volume. If you equate a rough correlation between canister volume and filter area, the Royal Purple filters are as follows:
10-48 = 28.21 cu. in. standard size
20-500 = 37.95 cu. in. oversize length +34% volume
20-820 = 45.60 cu. in. oversize diameter +62% volume
EDIT:
Fram XG10060 = 23.54 cu. in. -16.5% less volume!!!

So yes, 20-820 provides the biggest canister, but 20-500 provides the exact match fit to the engine interface and gives 1/3 more volume, so I think I'll just try that for minimal problems.

 

[HEMIMANN]

RP 10-48 was good but that’s the old version and can’t seem to find any online now.

RP 10-47 is new version and it’s not good I made a post about it, surprised this subpar manufacturing practice is still being recommended here. I liked 10-48 and all seemed well but knowing what I know now about it, whenever I finally finish my surplus, going to BOSS Purolator.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=17770&share_tid=158743&url=https://www.ramforum.com/index.php?threads/DO-NOT-BUY-RP-10-47!!!!.158743/&share_type=t&link_source=app

Use slightly longer 20-500, or large dia. 20-820. Both still available. Hope they don't cheapen then also. Might be likely given what's happened to 10-48.
https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple...rple+10-48&qid=1608739283&s=automotive&sr=1-3

What do we know about Purolator BOSS? Any filter patch test compares yet? BITOG? 540ratblog? Why not Fram Ultra Synthetic XG?

I'm no longer setup for filter patch tests. Mobil Lube Engineer days long past.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

Handy database.

Database's filter capacity is stated in displacement - is not the filter area, only the canister volume. If you equate a rough correlation between canister volume and filter area, the Royal Purple filters are as follows:
10-48 = 28.21 cu. in. standard size
20-500 = 37.95 cu. in. oversize length +34% volume
20-820 = 45.60 cu. in. oversize diameter +62% volume

So yes, 20-820 provides the biggest canister, but 20-500 provides the exact match fit to the engine interface and gives 1/3 more volume, so I think I'll just try that for minimal problems.

Size isn't the only criteria. Another one is dirt holding capacity. It is usually quoted in grams.

I think is the larger Mopar filter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FKPJ12W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this - Boss

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G6FPCXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This chart shows the dirt capacity.

http://www.pureoil.com/en/do-it-yourself/oil-filters/oil-filter-selection-guide/

 

[Burla]

For the guys deciding between 10-48 and 20-820 can consider this. Not enough into yet on other filter to decide if it is as restrictive or less restrictive. I might get one at some point since my truck can get hemi tick with the wrong filter.

A: The benefits of using a larger filter than specified by the manufacturer are debatable, but are typically as follows:

1. Slightly larger sump capacity
2. Slightly improved cooling
3. More media, which itself provides several benefits:
3a. Less pressure drop across the filter and more flow
3b. Reduction or elimination of oil bypass, which allows unfiltered oil through your filter
3c. A larger capacity for dirt
3d. Increased service life for longer drain intervals

 

[Tim Garceau]

I followed up with him last night to not spread any false information.


“The physics of a larger sized filter with more area of the same filter media, should very reliably result in even better flow characteristics.

The bypass valve psi range was elevated somewhat recently for the 10-48 filter, from the old range value of 11 to 17psi, to 18 to 24psi.

The 20-500 has been since it was created and I think still is 18 to 22.

However Champion has now been moving to a new improved, more efficient and consistent poppet style bypass valve design, so it is possible and in fact likely that current production of the 10-48 and the 20-500, may indeed now have the same bypass valve installed in them, or I would expect they will be before long since they are so close already.


The 20-820 has similar filter media area as the 20-500, but utilizes a slightly lower bypass range of 11 to 17psi and the O-ring inner and outer diameters are slightly larger than the 10-48 and 20-500.

20-500 is definitely your best choice for your street/strip performance application.”

Best Regards,



James Morrissey

Sr. Automotive Technical Support

 

[Burla]

The question I would ask is which filter's design the 20-820 versus 20-500 would allow for best chance at avoiding bypass on start up. If either has less pressure drop over the other in use. I can say just after having this conversation I wouldn't even consider the smaller filter 10-48 or 47 whatever. I can't see any reason that would make sense.

 

[HEMIMANN]

To Zoe Saldana (without all the quotation verbiage):

When we don't have access to filter media surface area, we are left to speculate via canister volume, as I note above. Media surface area is directly correlated to dirt holding capacity.
fyi

see my above post for relative filter volumes. I added the Fram Ultra Guard Synthetic I've been using - has -16.5% LESS volume than standard Royal Purple 10-48!! And I don't have Hemi Tick (yet), but I'm half-deaf anyway.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Burla & Tim,
I've selected 20-500 (Amazon) along with Red Line 5W-30 for my next Hemi 6.4L oil change this spring. Thanks to you guys, et. al. As long as they haven't "value-engineered" the 20-500 (yet) to increase executive bonuses.

I'll confirm the relief valve is still in the top when I get it. Not sure what 540ratblog is up to on this. Fram Ultra is my fallback, have always used, but pressure relief is on bottom. Only important really in cold ambients when truck has been sitting outside for an hour or more - risk of collapsing / damaging media pleats. But Fram reinforces pleats with wire mesh also.

 

[Tim Garceau]

Edited prior post for consolidation

 

[HEMIMANN]

Anyone heard of this outfit? -->

https://www.synlube.com/M22ns.htm

 

[NOV87]

... Why not Fram Ultra Synthetic XG?..

I started using Fram Ultra XG2. It's been 2000 miles. So far so good. Not even cold start tick noticed. No data to back it up, though. Last couple of oil changes I used SRT filters. No issues either. Liked the SRTs as well, but had to order them on line and Fram is avail at local Walmart.

 

[HEMIMANN]

I know Fram Ultra has PRV on the bottom, but so do most of them. And....the latest corporate conglomerate to buy and sell filter companies has snapped up both Fram and Champion Laboratories (make of Royal Purple & Amsoil Oil Filters, et. al.).

Pretty soon one gigantic mega-corporation will rule the earth. See: Rollerball.

https://www.fram.com/team-fram/late...bpi-and-champion-laboratories-inc-champ-labs/

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

So, I have one more 10-48 on the shelf, from last bulk purchase. As I read this now need to try 20-500 or go remote filter for my 14 as the SRT or 20-820 will not fit this truck for some undefined reason.

So that remote filter thread is in the DYI section, I think.....

 

[Dannyn_01]

... The 20-500 has been since it was created and I think still is 18 to 22...

... The 20-820 has similar filter media area as the 20-500, but utilizes a slightly lower bypass range of 11 to 17psi and the O-ring inner and outer diameters are slightly larger than the 10-48 and 20-500.

20-500 is definitely your best choice for your street/strip performance application.”

Best Regards,



James Morrissey

Sr. Automotive Technical Support

The question I would ask is which filter's design the 20-820 versus 20-500 would allow for best chance at avoiding bypass on start up. If either has less pressure drop over the other in use. I can say just after having this conversation I wouldn't even consider the smaller filter 10-48 or 47 whatever. I can't see any reason that would make sense.

Based off the bypass pressures, it would seem as if the 20-500 is superior to the 10-48 and 20-820? I dont recall seeing a 20-820 cut open, but it would be nice to see a 20-820 and 20-500 side by side to add filter media area to the mix.

Burla, wouldn't the higher bypass pressure of the 20-500 be best for cold starts? Unless im missing some info on cold starts... which is possible

 

[HEMIMANN]

Why do we want higher bypass pressure? Wouldn't that starve the engine more when it's really cold out, with a more viscous oil? i.e. - don't we want the bypass to open on cold winter startups?

 

[Dannyn_01]

Why do we want higher bypass pressure? Wouldn't that starve the engine more when it's really cold out, with a more viscous oil? i.e. - don't we want the bypass to open on cold winter startups?

Hm, my thought process was you don’t want unfiltered oil going through your engine, but like you said, it seems there a few circumstances where you DO. Time for more research!

 

[HEMIMANN]

Hm, my thought process was you don’t want unfiltered oil going through your engine, but like you said, it seems there a few circumstances where you DO. Time for more research!

Exactly.

I'd read some articles yesterday that said the same thing. That the bypass valve was MEANT to be operational during cold weather. Bypassing a short time during startup isn't gonna destroy the engine - more wear will be caused by oil not flowing quickly through the filter media to the engine than unfiltered oil bypassing for a minute or two - but getting to engine parts right away, right?

And then the valve closes and it all gets filtered again shortly thereafter anyway. I have no idea what timeframes are involved, just generic design thoughts.