Oil Filter Thread

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Hootbro

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M1 oil filter product Alert!!

Was changing the oil on my gf Honda today and when I looked at the used oil filter I noticed part of an inner seal was broken and getting sucked into the filter. I've never seen an inner seal like this before, but after looking under the lip of the filter you can see it on the M1.

View attachment 142979

View attachment 142980

That is the sealer for the tapping plate. Latest Mobil 1 EP filters have shown a lot of this and Champion Labs response has been they know about it but are not worried about the ones already out there since any pieces will be caught on the filtration side of the media and not get through the flow side to the engine.
 

Ramnewbie

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That is the sealer for the tapping plate. Latest Mobil 1 EP filters have shown a lot of this and Champion Labs response has been they know about it but are not worried about the ones already out there since any pieces will be caught on the filtration side of the media and not get through the flow side to the engine.
Is this just with the M1 filters or more of the Champ lab upper tier filters as they seem to make most of the filters now.

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Hootbro

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Is this just with the M1 filters or more of the Champ lab upper tier filters as they seem to make most of the filters now.

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I have only seen it with the Mobil 1 EP 20K mile rated filters, nothing else and nothing even remote the same with the Royal Purple filters that Champion Labs also makes.

There is a more than a few threads on BITOG on this and seems to have shown up mainly when Mobil 1 rolled out their 20K mile extend oil and oil filter with the "A" suffix on the end of the part numbers. Champion Labs has stated in the past that they build to Mobil 1's specifications for their filters and something changed recently when they relaunched with the new 20K mile rated Mobil 1 filters. I believe Champion Labs is going to address it in sequence production going forward but are not worried about what is out there as previously stated since any errant sealant will be caught on the filtration dirty side and not pass through.
 
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Burla

Burla

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It's a fallacy that adbv's keep hot oil in the lines, remember when you shut your engine down your oil is at it's thinnest. All they do is keep oil in the oil filter, easy to do with a hemi as the filters are pointed up and not sideways. It is a good question though, because I think of principals of siphon and vacuum. Would that be enough to "break the connection" of a siphon? It is very easy to find out, has anyone ever changed their oil and have an empty oil filter? I have had many different filters on my ram, the filter was always topping off full.
 

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It's a fallacy that adbv's keep hot oil in the lines, remember when you shut your engine down your oil is at it's thinnest. All they do is keep oil in the oil filter, easy to do with a hemi as the filters are pointed up and not sideways. It is a good question though, because I think of principals of siphon and vacuum. Would that be enough to "break the connection" of a siphon? It is very easy to find out, has anyone ever changed their oil and have an empty oil filter? I have had many different filters on my ram, the filter was always topping off full.
On my 6.4 I changed the oil filter after it sat all night and it barely had any oil in it, I didn't even need to top off the fluid. I also changed the filter after it has sat for about 30 minutes and had to put 1/2 quart to top off. So I think with the 6.4 horizontal design it slowly drains back into the pan.
 

TXCOMT

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You are 100% right. My wife works at Wally world so we pretty much know what's there from a day to day basis. I'd say 99% or better is specially shipped in for the sale, stuff not in store before or after sale, and junk, yes, bought a cheap waffle iron one time, sent for repair parts after first use, threw in trash after 2nd use.

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Maybe if you had lubed it with Redline, you'd still have that waffle iron today!

Sorry, but I couldn't help myself!

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Mopar MO-041 (SRT oil filter) on the right, I included the "recommended" oil filter from the dealership on the left for comparison.

IMG_0001.JPG

IMG_0005.JPG
 

HammerHead

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Unfortunately there is glue or some kind of sealer under the bottom lip of the base plate. This is the same kind of problem the M1 had.

IMG_0010.JPG
 

Jendsley06

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So member adrianp89 brought this test to the Syn thread, but this test is good enough to have it's own thread and many guys have tuned out of the Syn thread. This test proves the benefit from spun micro glass filters, all of the top three performers where spun microglass, and others such as Wix XP weren't tested. Anyhow, spun micro glass not only filters better out of the gate, but lasts much longer and holds contamination better. The top three filters tested in order are Royal Purple, Amsoil EA and Fram Ultra in third and the most economical choice. The test shows a different name for the third place filter, but it was changed to Ultra that year 2011. Below is the test filter after it passed through the tested filter (the name of the filters on the left), this is a compilation of the filters and as you can tell no noticeable contamination 30microns pass through the royal purple filter. Very little passed through the Amsoil or Fram Ultra. Read through the test page to see all of the results. Bottom line, Cellulose filters simply do not filter as good as synthetic media at any point in your oil change interval.


comparison.jpg

I posted somewhere else on this forum, but I will give the short story here. I worked at champion laboratories for almost 15 years. The microglass media is as listed above. Extremely good stuff. We made the amsoul and the royal purple. They both are basically the same application to application. We also made the Mobil1. Again almost identical as the others listed above. I can't attest to what miggm have changed over the past three years, but, I am confident that these haven't changed. The other main difference in these vs a cheap one is the thickness of the can. I don't tjiththis matters personally. I have watched burst tests on some of each type, and the seam and shell never give way when made properly of course. The gasket is the first to give. I think they want a thicker she'll just to have a heaver product to seem better. My opinion of course. I use cheap ones most times, and alternate to Mobil1 every few just to give a piece of mind. Mobil1 filters are $10-$12 at Walmart. Just my 2cents on this. Other brands I cannot attesr to.
 

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Quick question, I do about 5-6000 miles a year. Using PUP 5w20 and Fram ultra filter. OCI of up to 10000 miles according to manual, I don't want to leave the oil in for 2 years, but what about the filter, 2 years ok?
 

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Quick question, I do about 5-6000 miles a year. Using PUP 5w20 and Fram ultra filter. OCI of up to 10000 miles according to manual, I don't want to leave the oil in for 2 years, but what about the filter, 2 years ok?
Yes imo , the filter is good for 2 years [emoji1303]

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huntergreen

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Quick question, I do about 5-6000 miles a year. Using PUP 5w20 and Fram ultra filter. OCI of up to 10000 miles according to manual, I don't want to leave the oil in for 2 years, but what about the filter, 2 years ok?

I use the same oil and filter this run. Though RLK is correct I would change the filter just because I was taught, in the old days, always change the filter when you change the oil. Imho, it's not worth saving 8 bucks and reuse the fram ultra. That is just me and rlk is absolutely correct. The most important thing for you to do is to get your engine up to temp for a nice hwy run and burn off the impurities that accumulates in oil when running short trips.
 

800steve

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I'm a big fan of changing the filter with the oil too [emoji16]

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Me too, but I hate to change a 20000 mile filter at 6000 miles if I don't have to. It only holds about a pint of oil so I don't think its a problem like the old large filters, and the syn media should hold up.
 

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