Oil Filter Thread

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Burla

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I always liked the bosch filters, whats the verdict on those?

For it to be a contender here it would have to be the Bosch Distance Plus High Performance Oil Filter and we just don't have a lot of guys running it, maybe one and he doesn't post here. Give it a try and cut her open after the interval, let us know how the media holds up. More options the better imo.
 

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This is a very interesting thread that's been dormant for a while. Thanks Burla and contributors. Took me 2.5 hours to read through, including an occasional side trip to follow some interesting links. My mind is a bit mushy but it's clear that Red Line is the consensus oil brand but although many have their own preferred filter, I'm seeing a range of good choices (in no particular order): RP/Amsoil, Fram Ultra, Wix XP and Purolator Boss.

I have a 2020 1500 Classic Hemi with 300 miles and I'm here to find a good oil/filter combination going forward. Now that I've found an oil and have a nice list of filters to choose from, I'm wondering about the best oil viscosity here in Florida. This thread has mentioned 5w30 many times along with occasional mention of 5w20. Is 5w30 the best choice for the Hemi regardless of seasonal temperatures? Would 5W40 be a better alternative? Mileage would likely be in the 5K/yr range.
 
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This is a very interesting thread that's been dormant for a while. Thanks Burla and contributors. Took me 2.5 hours to read through, including an occasional side trip to follow some interesting links. My mind is a bit mushy but it's clear that Red Line is the consensus oil brand but although many have their own preferred filter, I'm seeing a range of good choices (in no particular order): RP/Amsoil, Fram Ultra, Wix XP and Purolator Boss.

I have a 2020 1500 Classic Hemi with 300 miles and I'm here to find a good oil/filter combination going forward. Now that I've found an oil and have a nice list of filters to choose from, I'm wondering about the best oil viscosity here in Florida. This thread has mentioned 5w30 many times along with occasional mention of 5w20. Is 5w30 the best choice for the Hemi regardless of seasonal temperatures? Would 5W40 be a better alternative? Mileage would likely be in the 5K/yr range.

YW..

5w30 redline in Florida, no need to go thicker. Another great choice if you don't have hemi tick is API PUP 5w30. Read your owners manual and consider what fcs wants for warranty as well.
 

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Thanks. From my manual:

Engine Oil - 5.7L Engine
We recommend you use API Certified SAE 5W-20 Engine Oil, meeting the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-6395 such as Mopar, Pennzoil, and Shell Helix. Refer to your engine oil filler cap for correct SAE grade. (My cap shows 5w20).

Engine Oil Filter
We recommend you use Mopar brand Engine Oil Filters.

Should I be trying to find the FCA Material Standard MS-6395 somewhere?
 
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Thanks. From my manual:

Engine Oil - 5.7L Engine
We recommend you use API Certified SAE 5W-20 Engine Oil, meeting the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-6395 such as Mopar, Pennzoil, and Shell Helix. Refer to your engine oil filler cap for correct SAE grade. (My cap shows 5w20).

Engine Oil Filter
We recommend you use Mopar brand Engine Oil Filters.

Should I be trying to find the FCA Material Standard MS-6395 somewhere?

I just want people to understand the book and then make their own decisions. Every single one of us who go redline 5w30 are not doing what the book told us to do. ms6395 most oils satisfy, but many don't cert it, not even m1 certs it. From what I have seen on ram forum the best api cert oil for the ram is PUP, and the 5w30 in PUP is not terribly thicker then 5w20.

The last thing I want to do is encourage someone to not use reldine in a hemi, imo it is the best insurance against hemi tick. But, in engines w/o tick or random noises, PUP is the most popular oil on the board. Other great choices are qsud, rotella truck and gas, amsoil ss, I believe all have api cert 6395. Alternatively pennzoil platinum as well.
 

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I got through 24 pages of this thread & did not find any info on a stock MoPar oil filter....Comparsions of 5 independant filter mfg's, was good..but how does the OEM filter measure up to the rest???
 
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It's paper, so if you look at the long link of how much contamination makes it through the filter, you see the top 4 spots are all spun microglass, number 4 of those 4 is a blend, and only KN paper filters come close to blended filters, but still it is paper. Mind you this is when the filter are FRESH, and paper still lets more through. Whatever is on the patch is what is rolling around, the less on the patch the more that is stopped by the filter. Look post number one and the patches.

The difference is spun microglass does not need binders, they use mesh backing for the stuff to stay bonded together. Obviously paper can't work this way, so they need binders to keep the paper bonded together. So these binders seam to hold up about 3 mos or 3k miles historically. With zero doubt every single paper filter I have cut open has had the media stiff as a board, and none of the spun microglass have ever been binded up in any way.

So generic paper filter will allow more contamination to roll around the engine, not flow as good especially when the binders bind thus sending it to bypass where it isn't filtering at all. SRT mopar filter is at a minimum blended, I thought there was a video on mopar filters in this thread? I'll see if I can find it.
 
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I don't really even recommend the srt filter, It doesn't appear to be spun microglass but many people say it is. They don't spell it out like RP does, you never have to ask what a RP filter is, you know. There are really good options out there, and as long as RP is making filter it is still the best media imo.

 

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That OEM $8.00 filter is almost like no filter at all... At the very least the entry level filter should be the SRT filter.....Getting a real education here... Gotta hand it to manufacturers, the quicker they can get a vehicle to wear out, the quicker they can sell a new one......Thanks for finding this vid......
 
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. Gotta hand it to manufacturers, the quicker they can get a vehicle to wear out, the quicker they can sell a new one......

Welcome to ram forum, you would liked the syn thread battles from a decade ago, seams like we found more examples of this crooked **** then anyone would have thought. They literally build stuff that breaks more often and accomplished nothing. MDS, give me a break that saves gas. You know they cut the gas to 4 cylinders, but they send that gas to the 4 hot ones, lol. FOOLS We are such suckers for trusting auto manus.
 

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Welcome to ram forum, you would liked the syn thread battles from a decade ago, seams like we found more examples of this crooked **** then anyone would have thought. They literally build stuff that breaks more often and accomplished nothing. MDS, give me a break that saves gas. You know they cut the gas to 4 cylinders, but they send that gas to the 4 hot ones, lol. FOOLS We are such suckers for trusting auto manus.
Just a random comment about MDS. I saw a thread a while ago now on here. And it was a guy that was showing data from the injectors when all 8 were firing. And then when MDS was on.

Funny thing is. The cylinders that shut down went to 0.. but the cylinders that were still firing basically doubled output..

So I'd love to know the math that helps me figure out that equation..... lol

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Just a random comment about MDS. I saw a thread a while ago now on here. And it was a guy that was showing data from the injectors when all 8 were firing. And then when MDS was on.

Funny thing is. The cylinders that shut down went to 0.. but the cylinders that were still firing basically doubled output..

So I'd love to know the math that helps me figure out that equation..... lol

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Lol that was my thread. Yeah it instantly doubles injector pulse width to the 4 active cylinders. I mean, talk about pointless. And there's no way anyone would know that was happening without a OBD monitor or scantool.

After seeing that I turned mine off with my Trinity and have seen 0 reduction in mpg.
 

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I've been running the SRT filter since April and an going to do an oil change in October. Im going to cut it open and see how it looks, the "standard" Mopar 899 filter looked pretty rough after 3-4000 miles.

I decided to try it because of the higher bypass rating which was designed for the SRT vehicles running PUP 0w40. The media may not be as good as RP/Wix/Amsoil EA filters, but if the bypass is opening sooner than the SRT filter is it's pretty much useless to have synthetic media...

JMO...
 
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I think maybe it was the old srt filter that was paper, maybe the new one has synthetic, but I don't know, and that is the point. It is pretty hard to get info on Mopar labeled products, just basic stuff, they don't really care to let us know about the formulas or advanced specs. I looked it up yesterday and what I found was Mopar saying "advanced" media, as if we are supposed to draw our own conclusions on what advanced means. Looking forward to seeing the result on the cut open, thanks Corey.
 

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WOW! 54 pages of information! Many links to follow. Talk about information overload!!

What I have learned:

Redline 5w30 is the oil for me.
No one in Knoxville Tn. sells Redline 5w30.
RP 10-48 or 20-820 filters for me.
Fram used to be the worst thing for my engine, but the new Ultra filter is a good choice.
Two people seem to get along like oil and water.
Fried turkey sounds like a great meal.

KenR 955
 
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Try dealer locator, like 79 stores sell redline there.

I might ask if they can special order the oil?

I'd try Napa first, but compare their price to nick from gotexhaust.
 
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KenR 955

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Thanks for the link, but a dead end as the locations listed sell a few Redline products, like water wetter and the like, but not 5w30 oil.
I will search for gotexhaust.
 
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