Oil pressure

[Overlander]

your mobil1 is nothing special. sorry to bring you the bad news

Please post links to engines that died because they used Mobil 1 instead of [insert favorite brand]. If it meets spec (and I’m not certain M1 does) and is changed regularly it will serve the motor well.

 

[2003F350]

your mobil1 is nothing special. sorry to bring you the bad news

It might not be. My point still stands that I did not specify what I wanted in the motor, I don't know what they put in, and I saw a drastic drop in oil pressure under normal operating conditions. After specifying what I wanted, everything has returned to normal. Considering the only thing that changed was the oil, process of elimination shows that the issue was incorrect oil was used.

And regarding if the oil meets spec or not - I have no lifter noise at 60k miles, so whatever I'm doing seems to be working, and I'm not going to risk changing something.

 

[crazy jerry]

It might not be. My point still stands that I did not specify what I wanted in the motor, I don't know what they put in, and I saw a drastic drop in oil pressure under normal operating conditions. After specifying what I wanted, everything has returned to normal. Considering the only thing that changed was the oil, process of elimination shows that the issue was incorrect oil was used.

And regarding if the oil meets spec or not - I have no lifter noise at 60k miles, so whatever I'm doing seems to be working, and I'm not going to risk changing something.

if the dealer did the service they would of used pup 0w40 but i hope you wont ramble on how the pup caused some low oil pressure. if you went to a quick lube joint theres no telling what they put in (why would you even take your truck there in the first place?). they are notoriously incompetant to say the least

 

[byronc]

Sorry- I am diesel retarded. Are you saying it's a no-no to NOT change the cooler or a no-no to change the cooler?

Sent from my VOG-L04 using Tapatalk

I’m saying it’s a no no to not change the oil cooler. If the engine has gone bad due to contamination more the likely the oil filter went into by pass. Which would just pump contaminated oil back through the system. Coolers are a great place to catch that contamination. I’ve rebuilt several engines where another shop did a “motor job” and didn’t change the cooler. Even flushing the cooler rarely gets all the debris out.

 

[smurfs_of_war]

I’m saying it’s a no no to not change the oil cooler. If the engine has gone bad due to contamination more the likely the oil filter went into by pass. Which would just pump contaminated oil back through the system. Coolers are a great place to catch that contamination. I’ve rebuilt several engines where another shop did a “motor job” and didn’t change the cooler. Even flushing the cooler rarely gets all the debris out.

Ok that's what I thought. Just wanted to make sure my thoughts were correct. Any engine swap I have ever done gets all new hoses, lines, piping and coolers everywhere, regardless.

That said, my last swap was the stroker into my 89 GMC, so that was a while ago lol!

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[byronc]

Well the dealer called and told me the oil pressure was in spec ??????
What?

I went from 53psi to 37psi in 4 days. I don’t care if it’s in spec. Something is wrong. They don’t want to take it apart to check to see what could be causing this.
What good is warranty if I have to do the work my self.

 

[Overlander]

Are there any other indications? Is it burning oil? Oil in spark plugs? New startup noises? Change in temps? Knocks when revving it out? Change in MDS behavior? Have you pulled a sample to send to Blackstone to get a trend going?

 

[byronc]

Are there any other indications? Is it burning oil? Oil in spark plugs? New startup noises? Change in temps? Knocks when revving it out? Change in MDS behavior? Have you pulled a sample to send to Blackstone to get a trend going?

Cold start is a little noisier than normal. Will be pulling the oil pan and pump off next week for inspection. Pressure is lower than it used to be. Have the rev 3500 to break 50 psi. Used to get over 50 psi at 1500 rpm
I did cut apart my filter and found some metal. Not a lot but some.

 

[crazy jerry]

normally i believe oil pressure is 50+ at 1k rpm

you said you were going to check the pressure yourself to rule out any fault of a sensor. did you ever do that ?

ive never cut apart a filter. never had any reason to. i thought about doing it for fun a few times but never got around to it. if i were to see metal i would be a bit concearned im sure. any kind of debris would be concearning i would think

you seemed to leave some details out. what does a long block consist of and was it using new or refurbished parts ? what existing parts did they reuse ? who built the long block ?

personally if theres no strange noises i wouldnt be immediatly concearned of lower oil pressure but i would probly investigate what may have caused it, after i ruled out a bad sending unit. your situation seems more complicated in that you may have debris in the filter. i cant think of any good reason why metal would be in there. i sure hope you got photos of the debris

 

[Hydraplane]

I would change the oil and filter myself, to begin. You cannot be certain what you are running otherwise....

 

[2003F350]

if the dealer did the service they would of used pup 0w40 but i hope you wont ramble on how the pup caused some low oil pressure. if you went to a quick lube joint theres no telling what they put in (why would you even take your truck there in the first place?). they are notoriously incompetant to say the least

I go to the dealer because I have the Maxxcare Lifetime warranty, and I want all service records recorded. So yes, I'm saying the dealer put in an oil that I'm betting was NOT Mobil 1, and there was a drastic drop-off in oil pressure that went away when I had the oil changed with Mobil 1 the next time.

You're calling me a liar or a fool, and frankly, I'm getting tired of it. I know how my truck runs, I check all things over before and after the dealer services anything to see if anything looks missing or out of place, and I keep an eye on all levels and pressures, trusting that the sensors in the truck work because I just don't have time to install analog ones.

I'm an engineer, I build machines and troubleshoot hydraulic-related systems all the time (which is exactly what our engines have). The type of oil being changed in a system can and will alter the steady-state properties of the system. And when the only things that have been changed are the oil and the filter, and the filter is the exact same one they've been using since the first oil change, then it stands to reason by process of elimination that whatever oil was put in is the contributing factor.

 

[crazy jerry]

maybe you went to a rogue dealer and they put car oil in it? i never seen anyone say pup made the oil pressure go down

 

[LeesEvoX]

I go to the dealer because I have the Maxxcare Lifetime warranty, and I want all service records recorded. So yes, I'm saying the dealer put in an oil that I'm betting was NOT Mobil 1, and there was a drastic drop-off in oil pressure that went away when I had the oil changed with Mobil 1 the next time.

You're calling me a liar or a fool, and frankly, I'm getting tired of it. I know how my truck runs, I check all things over before and after the dealer services anything to see if anything looks missing or out of place, and I keep an eye on all levels and pressures, trusting that the sensors in the truck work because I just don't have time to install analog ones.

I'm an engineer, I build machines and troubleshoot hydraulic-related systems all the time (which is exactly what our engines have). The type of oil being changed in a system can and will alter the steady-state properties of the system. And when the only things that have been changed are the oil and the filter, and the filter is the exact same one they've been using since the first oil change, then it stands to reason by process of elimination that whatever oil was put in is the contributing factor.

Hey dude. Word of advice... That Jerry ******* is just that.... i have opted to ignore this nut jobs comments to save myself the trouble. i suggest you do the same. lol.

 

[WY.Ram]

Cold start is a little noisier than normal. Will be pulling the oil pan and pump off next week for inspection. Pressure is lower than it used to be. Have the rev 3500 to break 50 psi. Used to get over 50 psi at 1500 rpm
I did cut apart my filter and found some metal. Not a lot but some.

Just a bit of heads up and this can largely depend on your dealer but be very careful what you do while your engine is in possible failure mode. If your dealer wants a way out of your warranty all they have to do is sit on their hands, drool a lil bit and goad you into tooling up in an effort to be proactive. Doesn't matter if you reported the problem and you feel its a part of the record if they want out, and you touch it, they might try to claim it failed due to you.

If you have a trusted, reputable mechanic that can give you a second opinion or written analysis on your current observations it might be worth considering. If you have that in writing you will have a lot more warranty on your engine. Even if the second mechanic noted the low oil pressure and a brief maintenance schedule recommendation. That'll make a solid record entry that the dealer is far less likely to try and refute.

If you disassemble anything, can't find the issue, then have to continue drive it, that is going to leave you very vulnerable to be the cause of not only the current low pressure but any failure as an effect.

Taking all this on, finding the issue and correcting would surely be an outstanding result, I understand. To be complacent is not my style either. Especially when we re talking my $55k plus baby. My enthusiasm did help me buy a trans for her at 40k mi but it was only $5700 (gack, choke) what your facing is probably twice the cost. That happened with MaxCare and multiple reportings and dealer involvement.

My pressure is pegged (+55psi)most of the time, if my engine is under 1000 rpm after its been driven awhile, only then does the pressure drop under 40psi. Mine has 90k mi.

If you dive in, good luck with it!

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

 

[byronc]

Well my oil pressure issue is fixed.
Dealership wouldn’t help at all. So I fixed it. New oil pump and cooler. Now running 55psi@1500 rpm and 33 psi at idle. If the try to void my warranty they will have a big fight on there hands. I’m a licensed diesel mechanic and run my own shop. Have lots of pictures and I’m keeping all the old parts for proof.

I could clearly see where something went through the pump. And there was a bunch of debris on the suction screen. It amazes me Technitians at a dealer did that crappy of a job when they changed me engine last year

 

[olyelr]

Well my oil pressure issue is fixed.
Dealership wouldn’t help at all. So I fixed it. New oil pump and cooler. Now running 55psi@1500 rpm and 33 psi at idle. If the try to void my warranty they will have a big fight on there hands. I’m a licensed diesel mechanic and run my own shop. Have lots of pictures and I’m keeping all the old parts for proof.

I could clearly see where something went through the pump. And there was a bunch of debris on the suction screen. It amazes me Technitians at a dealer did that crappy of a job when they changed me engine last year

Yea that is ridiculous. I would think that would be common knowledge/practice.

 

[JS4024]

Take it back to the dealer and have them put a mechanical oil pressure gage on it. If they left a bunch of crap in your motor after fixing the lifters god knows what they left in it after replacing the long block. It seems as if this dealer does sloppy half assed work. My guess is some crap fould up a oil passage and you will probably need new lifters again. Don't let your warranty expire..... or buy an extended power train warranty now. Or dump the *****....

 

[2003F350]

Well my oil pressure issue is fixed.
Dealership wouldn’t help at all. So I fixed it. New oil pump and cooler. Now running 55psi@1500 rpm and 33 psi at idle. If the try to void my warranty they will have a big fight on there hands. I’m a licensed diesel mechanic and run my own shop. Have lots of pictures and I’m keeping all the old parts for proof.

I could clearly see where something went through the pump. And there was a bunch of debris on the suction screen. It amazes me Technitians at a dealer did that crappy of a job when they changed me engine last year

It sounds like you're in a position that, if they tried to void your warranty, you'd be able to fight it and keep it in effect. Most people aren't in that position.

It also sound like you've got a shoddy dealer on your hands. I have rebuilt 10 (I think) different motors of various designs and displacements (both gas and diesel), and there is NEVER a reason to leave anything in the motor, ever. Of course, I'm the guy who, if I see even a spec of dust, I'll do my best to get it out of there before I seal off a cavity that I won't be able to get to. And if something is disassembled for the night, some kind of cover goes over it to keep things out of it until tomorrow.

I'd suggest you try to find a different dealer next time, but I know that's not always feasible.

Glad it's fixed. Hope you get a lot of time out of it this time!

 

[Astewartconst]

Mine runs mid 50s driving and into the 30s at idle. 2021 with 1999 miles

 

[Mr Rich]

Well my oil pressure issue is fixed.
Dealership wouldn’t help at all. So I fixed it. New oil pump and cooler. Now running 55psi@1500 rpm and 33 psi at idle. If the try to void my warranty they will have a big fight on there hands. I’m a licensed diesel mechanic and run my own shop. Have lots of pictures and I’m keeping all the old parts for proof.

I could clearly see where something went through the pump. And there was a bunch of debris on the suction screen. It amazes me Technitians at a dealer did that crappy of a job when they changed me engine last year

I would think with your expertise you could submit a bill for labor and parts that were the actual costs to repair your own vehicle. You have documented proof of sloppy, inept work by the dealer grease monkeys. They aren't techs by any sense of the word. I had a similar situation with my GM vehicle thirty years ago and I replaced the engine with a crate engine I installed myself at the curb outside my apt. at the time. (Crate engine was purchased from another dealer as well.)