Parts store oil

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DirtyWipers

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I have used this parts store oil for a long while in my 2012 Hemi. Still runs and sounds great at 140k. I'd be happy to pay alot more for a different brand if I believed I was getting a better product but my Hemi seems to love this stuff. Give it a try and it might save you a few bucks.

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Burla

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Some parts store oils are great, I don't think this is one however, no moly here. In hemi specific oil fca spec oil has 250ppm moly, which protects lifters at dry start. Look up moly basics for more info.

Some other stuff like kirkland oil will save you money but also have a killer additive package. Google pqia and any oil you are considering. It isn't a brand thing but a formula thing. I will say if you want to keep running that oil maybe consider dumping in some lubegard biotech.
 

slickracer

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Probably made by Warren and the same thing as Supertech or Kirkland. Meets GM specs which are way more tough than MS-6395.
 

Sherman Bird

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I have used this parts store oil for a long while in my 2012 Hemi. Still runs and sounds great at 140k. I'd be happy to pay alot more for a different brand if I believed I was getting a better product but my Hemi seems to love this stuff. Give it a try and it might save you a few bucks.

View attachment 219451

Sounds like you've found something that works for you and you want to share! Thank You!
 

PoMansRam

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140K and all original? Thanks for sharing!

All I've used for the past 15+ years is house brand motor oils. Mostly Supertech, Napa, Carquest, but some Amazon basics, tractor supply, etc thrown into the mix.

Lately I've been mail-ordering 3-packs of ST 5qt jugs when I find a decent deal.
 

MikaR

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Made by Valvoline will say on the bottle somewhere
 

Nova John

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Burla, you seem to be the oil expert on this forum, I have a question. I have a 2011 hemi Ram with 109,000 miles on it. Am using 2qts of PUP 5/20 and 5 quarts of PUP 5/30 for summer and opposite for winter. I have light piston slap when really cold. I also use bio lube and change oil every 4,200-5,000 miles. Bo you think It would be better to run 0/20 or 0/30 in the winter with moly additive. Have been using moly for last 80,000 miles. Thanks for your help.
 

Burla

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Made by Valvoline will say on the bottle somewhere

Good info, and explains why the zero moly. Makes a lot of sense, as valvoline is one of the few oils that don't have a commitment to moly.
 

Burla

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Burla, you seem to be the oil expert on this forum, I have a question. I have a 2011 hemi Ram with 109,000 miles on it. Am using 2qts of PUP 5/20 and 5 quarts of PUP 5/30 for summer and opposite for winter. I have light piston slap when really cold. I also use bio lube and change oil every 4,200-5,000 miles. Do you think It would be better to run 0/20 or 0/30 in the winter with moly additive. Have been using moly for last 80,000 miles. Thanks for your help.

I like PUP a lot, use it in my other vehicle and if not for hemi tick I would likely be using it in the ram, and it has earned the top spot for the most popular oil on the forum. I know the 0w20 has dexos spec, but that is it for the stay in grade desirable specs. My guess and that is all I have "a guess", is that GtL base oil allows them to make this spec, when other oils such as m1 need to add base oils like pao to meet this spec. I believe for the cold pao is the better option then GtL, pao even beats esters in cold performance.

I would not be afraid of 0w20, especially seeing most of the good ones carry the desirable stay in grade specs. But I would "try" to find a year round oil I didn't have to mix. M1 is the safe choice, they make 0w30's that are top shelf. But, if 0w30 still gave you cold piston slap, 0w20 m1 is worth a try. It isn't scientific yes I know, but if you watch those cold flow -22f m1 rocks those tests. Consistently and in nearly every one of those I have watched the m1 is the clear winner if we exclude redline.

If you want to stay with PUP, by all means try 0w30 and see if it helps, it might just help. Now, here is a link for you to consider, and mind you most of the cold performance info I receive is second hand from guys here that live in the snow states. So another strategy for you to consider is find the oil with the best CCS numbers (cold crank viscosity) and give that a try. I believe a ram forum member has done this and it wasn't m1, redline or PUP. I forget which one it was to be honest.

It likely will be trial and error for you, but I believe it is a worth while task, and don't be afraid to walk a way from brand if it isn't helping. You are now armed with some good info and a starting point. Do us a favor and let the syn thread know if you were able to solve this and what oil helped.

I would be considering oil filters as well, sometimes the right oil filter is just as important. Maybe the 10-48 is better then the 20-820, I simply do not know the answer here. Also, from other guys in cold states like hemi395 and u&a, fill sump 1/2 quart over fill line.
 

Burla

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Also make it for Napa,Parts Plus,Auto Value too

Sun of a gun, as you see here Napa synthetic also devoid of moly. From all of the work the forum has done, I'd just say at least drop a 6 dollar bottle of 10 ounce lubegard biotech in any cheap oil. With the cam/lifter issues on the board, I think it is a mistake to not have moly in your oil.
 
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