Premature failure - 2018 RAM 1500 (3.6 Penstar) — Coolant Intrusion into Cylinder #2, another Penstar problem.... Christmas Special!

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Wild one

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The dealer doesn’t want to change them because they’re concerned that the heads are warped or the deck is also warped. It’s too much of a headache for them.

The independent shop can pull the bad head and measure both it and the decks flatness, then go from there.

The only problem with cold, that I’ve found, is the throttle body likes to try to freeze when below -35.
Ever thought about adding a catch can to it.The only place the throttle body would get moisture from that would freeze the throttle body is the pcv system
 

Hootbro

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A lot of things happen when they should not, that is just the law of averages biting you. Generally there is no warranty for the warranty with the caveat of you can try for a "Goodwill Repair" but the farther you are out of warranty, the less likely that will happen and is usually reserved for original purchaser.

Also, throwing the "Vet Card" out has nothing to do with anything here as an enhancer to any decision process.
 
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MarineTanker2018

MarineTanker2018

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Ever thought about adding a catch can to it.The only place the throttle body would get moisture from that would freeze the throttle body is the pcv system
I changed PCV on it before I took to dealership

I seemed to notice excessive vapor even after I did it...
 
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MarineTanker2018

MarineTanker2018

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A lot of things happen when they should not, that is just the law of averages biting you. Generally there is no warranty for the warranty with the caveat of you can try for a "Goodwill Repair" but the farther you are out of warranty, the less likely that will happen and is usually reserved for original purchaser.

Also, throwing the "Vet Card" out has nothing to do with anything here as an enhancer to any decision process.
I intended to get 200k plus out of it, I wouldnt even argue at 150k, but a failure beyond my control at 112k, I will call out every single time.

Appreciate the input but the vet card is who I am and I won't be changing that anytime soon. I added since I am new here.
 

rtpapa55

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Last year I purchase a 2019 Ram 1500 with the V6 engine, with 40K miles. I avoided the V8 for lots of reasons, but choose the V6 because I have had two of these engines in other vehicles (2011 Dodge Durango & 2014 Town and Country) both went over 200k miles without any significant engine issues. Like you, I did all the scheduled maintenance and much of them myself. What I have overserved with my Ram truck is that the engine does run hotter than my other two vehicles (never exceeded 212F). This past summer, I did experience 225F with my Ram and wondered about replacing the thermostat to avoid any potential issues like you are having. Another observation is that the analog temperature gauge never really changed between 190F to 225F which is what I was reading on the digital gauge. Wonder if you experienced something similar?

Some advice: I have read all the chain of messages and agree with many of the comments. However, I would find a local mechanic that you or a family member trusts. Let them do an analysis and if it needs a head gasket, let them do it. If your head is warped, then buy another head. It will still be a lot cheaper than the $13K the dealer quoted you. Keep in the mind Chrysler FCA has a lot of inventory and they want your to trade it in and sell you a new truck. My last piece of advice is to replace both head gaskets at the same time. The likelihood is if the increased temp cause one gasket to leak the other one is not far behind. Your paying for the labor already, a second gasket and labor will be cheaper today while they are in there, rather than going back a second time in the future.

Thank you for sharing your experience and your service to our country. Let me know how it goes.
 
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MarineTanker2018

MarineTanker2018

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Last year I purchase a 2019 Ram 1500 with the V6 engine, with 40K miles. I avoided the V8 for lots of reasons, but choose the V6 because I have had two of these engines in other vehicles (2011 Dodge Durango & 2014 Town and Country) both went over 200k miles without any significant engine issues. Like you, I did all the scheduled maintenance and much of them myself. What I have overserved with my Ram truck is that the engine does run hotter than my other two vehicles (never exceeded 212F). This past summer, I did experience 225F with my Ram and wondered about replacing the thermostat to avoid any potential issues like you are having. Another observation is that the analog temperature gauge never really changed between 190F to 225F which is what I was reading on the digital gauge. Wonder if you experienced something similar?

Some advice: I have read all the chain of messages and agree with many of the comments. However, I would find a local mechanic that you or a family member trusts. Let them do an analysis and if it needs a head gasket, let them do it. If your head is warped, then buy another head. It will still be a lot cheaper than the $13K the dealer quoted you. Keep in the mind Chrysler FCA has a lot of inventory and they want your to trade it in and sell you a new truck. My last piece of advice is to replace both head gaskets at the same time. The likelihood is if the increased temp cause one gasket to leak the other one is not far behind. Your paying for the labor already, a second gasket and labor will be cheaper today while they are in there, rather than going back a second time in the future.

Thank you for sharing your experience and your service to our country. Let me know how it goes.
So I work in Houston and I reached 225 every day. I suppose it was the 110+ real feel every day . This occurs 7-8mo of the year unfortunately.

I'm supposed to find out this next week on diagnosis.

I will say.... I did see a new 2025 Warlock at a dealership (crew cab/4WD) with the new hurricane at $42k and am thinking.... The new hurricane specs are $hit hot... I'm just hesitant with it being the first year engine, however if I buy new from this dealership they do lifetime warranty as long as you service at required intervals there.
 

Gary Fields

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Chrysler can build a six cylinder that does not fall apart. My 69 Dart with a 225 slant six was running fine at 185K and 20 years old. I replaced valve cover gaskets and cleaned out lifters but that was the extent of motor repair. Today's Pukastar does not compare favorable to the slant six.
 
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MarineTanker2018

MarineTanker2018

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Chrysler can build a six cylinder that does not fall apart. My 69 Dart with a 225 slant six was running fine at 185K and 20 years old. I replaced valve cover gaskets and cleaned out lifters but that was the extent of motor repair. Today's Pukastar does not compare favorable to the slant six.
Agreed
 

Dusty

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"Dealership said they don't open because they are sealed but manual says to change fluid???"
The dealer's (service writer?) statement is false. In your case perhaps part of the problem IS the dealer.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 143247 miles.
 

Dusty

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So I work in Houston and I reached 225 every day. I suppose it was the 110+ real feel every day . This occurs 7-8mo of the year unfortunately.

I'm supposed to find out this next week on diagnosis.

I will say.... I did see a new 2025 Warlock at a dealership (crew cab/4WD) with the new hurricane at $42k and am thinking.... The new hurricane specs are $hit hot... I'm just hesitant with it being the first year engine, however if I buy new from this dealership they do lifetime warranty as long as you service at required intervals there.
The Hurricane is in it's second (2.5, actually) year and so far reporting very few problems.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 143247 miles.
 

Bigskyroadglide

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I'd fix what I had before getting a 2025 with a hurricane. Given the difficulty they had with it, I'd wait a bit before purchasing one.

Your problems are not unique, and Minnesota winters have little to do with your issue. I've started and driven mine in -50. -17 is not to be downplayed but, there are more extremes, hot or cold in different areas of the country. Think about 120 in Vegas in the summer.

I hope you find resolution, but at 112k, it's on you not Ram.

Thank you for your service.
 

Docwagon1776

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I intended to get 200k plus out of it, I wouldnt even argue at 150k, but a failure beyond my control at 112k, I will call out every single time.

Appreciate the input but the vet card is who I am and I won't be changing that anytime soon. I added since I am new here.

Then you wanted a Toyota. Anything FCA/Stellantis builds *may* make it to 200k without a repair bill.... but I sure AF wouldn't count on it.

There's an introduction subforum here if you think we need your background. Also a military specific thread.
 

BenchTest

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220-225 is normal on the Pentastar, especially at idle when the air flow isn't being forced through the radiator. They are designed to run that temp and the cooling fan typically won't cycle on before that (it will when certain variables are met, e.g. A/C and ambient temps meet threshold for fan activation). I'm currently sitting at 4 degrees and my truck will run all the way up to 223 prior to the fan cycling on, sitting idle. Pis ses me off, but that's the way it's designed. I have wired in an aux. cooling fan for times when I'm sitting idle or moving slowly under load (offroad in the mountains) that I can turn on with an old fashioned rocker switch. It's not glamorous but it's what I've done to keep operating temps down at low/no speed because 223 pis ses me off. While moving at a steady highway speed the truck runs consistent 198-203 and will spike to 205-207 if I start pulling a small grade and the RPMs are up a bit. I run 220-225 when pulling mountain grades and RPMs are in the 3500-4000 range. Might be useful info for you, might not be.
 

star_deceiver

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Ever thought about adding a catch can to it.The only place the throttle body would get moisture from that would freeze the throttle body is the pcv system

I have one, but I’ve found that there are at least 3 vac lines into the intake. So it’s still in a box in the garage. The lines are also annoying hardish plastic.

For now I’ve wrapped a battery blanket around the throttle body, which I only plug in below -30.

These are normal running temperatures pretty much all year. They only jump when I’m towing or climbing a long hill.

IMG_4225.jpeg
 

BenchTest

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I have one, but I’ve found that there are at least 3 vac lines into the intake. So it’s still in a box in the garage. The lines are also annoying hardish plastic.

For now I’ve wrapped a battery blanket around the throttle body, which I only plug in below -30.

These are normal running temperatures pretty much all year. They only jump when I’m towing or climbing a long hill.

View attachment 577060
Can't read that gauge cluster...seems to be in a foreign language :hahano:
 

huntergreen

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I intended to get 200k plus out of it, I wouldnt even argue at 150k, but a failure beyond my control at 112k, I will call out every single time.

Appreciate the input but the vet card is who I am and I won't be changing that anytime soon. I added since I am new here.
SEMPER FI, from an old navy doc.
Its doubt ful you’ll get any help from Chrysler. That being said, there was some issue with casting sand messing up the coolant system. It’s possible this could have blocked passages and caused some overheating. I’ll let you do your own research on the issue years affected and damage caused by this issue. Also keep in mind that I’m no sort of mechanic whatsoever.
 

tap4154

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I don't understand the concern about the V6 running up around 225. Today as I was driving around I was watching temps, and when the analog needle is around midway at normal, the gauge reads about 221 to 223 when in traffic, then it would go down to 195 198 or so at speed. And that's in about 60° weather on level ground. I think these engines are designed to run a little bit hotter. Vintage engines usually ran a little bit cooler, but I think modern ones run hotter for emissions reasons, and it also helps keep moisture out of the oil.
 
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rvance

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The dealer doesn’t want to change them because they’re concerned that the heads are warped or the deck is also warped. It’s too much of a headache for them.

The independent shop can pull the bad head and measure both it and the decks flatness, then go from there.

The only problem with cold, that I’ve found, is the throttle body likes to try to freeze when below -35.
It doesn't get to -35 in Conroe TX
 

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