Question about Installing 2" Level

[BIGBREW]

Have a level kit on the way, and some new tires ready to go on, Question is, I have read that you have to unbolt the a-arm, torsion bar, remove the brake caliper to be able to remove the strut and spring to install the block, and I have been told and read that you just have to jack the truck up far enough to drop the a-arm far enough to just remove the strut and install the block, I have the tools, don't have air to use, I guess I am just trying to decide how much time to set aside to do this....Thanks Gents.

 

[ATRepair]

It took me 2.5 hours this afternoon to put mine in by my self. I used Air. I wasn't in a hurry.

 

[BIGBREW]

Thanks, how much did you take apart? Reason I ask is I just had back surgery and I am trying to plan this out, I don't have air, but I have the correct tools that will make up for air to an extent.

 

[MegaMouseGW]

Depending upon the truck it could be real easy or harder than heck. I would plan on an afternoon at least for the front and a few hours for the back. Whenever working under your truck always use jack stands. A normal jack can fail at any moment and should not be trusted at all.

 

[ATRepair]

Here was my process, don't use this as your list in case something is different or I forgot something.

Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.
Lift the front and rest the frame on jack stands with the tires 2" off the ground.
Use an impact to remove the lug nuts (break them free before lifting if done by hand)
Remove the wheels.
Disconnect the ABS sensor wiring harness and move them out of the way so they don't get damaged.
Unbolt the brake calipers and hang them out of the way so there is not stress on the lines.
Remove the nut for the anti-sway bar.
Remove nuts from top of strut.
Remove nut from bolt on bottom of strut.
Remove the nut for the tie rod then remove it from the steering arm.
Remove nut from upper ball joint then remove upper ball joint from the carrier.
Push carrier down and pull bottom of strut out then down to remove it completely.
Install the leveling spacer and torque the nuts.
Reinstall everything in reverse order and torque nuts/bolts.

That's what I saw on youtube videos, what I read in several directions, and what I did yesterday. I had a little trouble getting the lower strut bolt back in on the passenger side but nothing to sweat over. There isn't much room on the passenger side top strut mount for a deep wall socket and torque wrench but I got it done. It was pretty simple really and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. I'd like to do it to my wife's 09 Expedition but she said no.

Doing it myself was much cheaper than taking it to anyone. I'm done with a total less than $90 and that included realignment. The cheapest in town was quoted $275 plus my kit followed by another at $370 with their kit.