Ram Riding and Handling absolutely terrible!

[GovernorBudNH]

Sell the truck.

You mention you want to use a truck camper. You will need at least a 2500 for this.

I use the truck to PULL THE CAMPER. The setup and truck would be great once I Properly fix the ride quality issues with the CORRECT Components and what has worked for you guys is all I'm after.

 

[heckcat9]

I learned 1 thing owning trucks, don't lift them and put bigger tires.
On the education tree consumers are 7th smartest(dumbest)
6th racers & shop specific techs
5th shop mechanics
4th factory mechanics
3rd design engineers
2nd chemistry engineers
1st metal scientists

I did use deleted and maximum MPGs tips on line. I get 25-30 mpgs freeway monthly. 450k
2015 Ram Cummins 2500 4x4 quad cab, g56+6speed, camper shell CERT emergency truck, 10,500lbs.

130ton mile/gallon me
160ton mile/gallon 18 wheeler
500ton mile/gallon diesel trains

I do average about 12-16cents a mile cheaper than stock using RAM Firestone Transforce 2757018 HT takeoff tires, so this truck paid for it self in 300,000 miles!

Smooth car ride.View attachment 474997

Save some America for the rest of us.

 

[BolletuH]

Oh... yeah that's it right there. View attachment 474833

That's a one size fits all strut/coil combo on the heaviest version of the truck and it's probably slamming off the bumpstops every time you hit a crack on the road.

If you posted this photo first it would have saved you a bit of time! You'll need ecodiesel coil springs, or aftermarket struts that can be adjusted for the weight of the ecodiesel and the added winch/etc up front.

The good news is now that the problem is apparent so is a solution.

I have to agree. Your CV axle being at a negative angle is rather concerning. I've only ever seen them in a neutral or slightly positive angle when everything is working properly. Maybe the crossmember for dropping the differential was for a taller lift and the coil over spacer was swapped due to some concern from prior owner. I'm guessing you inherited his/her problems. At this point you really do either need to purchase a new full lift kit (assuming you want to keep it lifted), or return to stock height which I know certain bracketry has to be modified to accommodate the differential drop which might not be possible now.

Only other thing I can think of that might involve a bit of time is to find part numbers on all non-OEM suspension components so that you can verify they are of the same kit. If any part in particular was swapped out it could help in you figuring out what to do next if you can get away with finding an mismatched part.

Stole fellow forum member's pic for reference.

 

[VIZ28]

I use the truck to PULL THE CAMPER. The setup and truck would be great once I Properly fix the ride quality issues with the CORRECT Components and what has worked for you guys is all I'm after.

 

[VIZ28]

Ah, so you have a travel trailer. Campers don't have wheels and go in the box of the truck.

Hope you get your suspension sorted out. My 2011 1500 had a great ride, for a truck.

 

[GovernorBudNH]

In the ongoing search for a reasonable but properly done fix, this past weekend I brought the RAM to a well regarded shop in northern NH that does much work installing plows and on pick-ups using logging roads. After explaining the ride issues and suspension kaffufles, (not the fault of the RAM but the previous owner BTW) the shop owner took the truck down a combined highway/secondary road with frost heaves. The ride "Shudder" was obvious.

He brought up fact that the 6" lift was by BDS so I sent pictures and called BDS Tech out in Michigan. I was told based on part numbers that the strut is a masterpro strut assembly from O'Reilly. Monroe shocks in the rear. Not great quality.

His suggestion, before spending lots of money on suspension fixes was to swap out the 12 ply Nitto Grabber 303 55 20's with a set of the OEM tires, Goodyear Wrangler SRA 275 60 20s which are 4 ply. The difference in ride should be obvious. He gave me a set of the tires he had taken off another RAM 1500 with 10k miles.

I'm going to do this during the week and re-evaluate the ride. I appreciate the suggestions made by you guys above, and have to do more research as theres no point is spending lots of dollars and not get it right. It is a great truck all around and there has to be some way of sorting this out without selling the truck.

 

[kurek]

there has to be some way of sorting this out without selling the truck.

This continues to be your problem and until you fix this with diesel-specific springs OR adjustable struts with diesel-specific adjustment settings you will never fix it.

You can buy used OEM diesel struts (with OEM diesel springs) and install them, or you can mix and match eibach diesel-specific springs onto bilstein, procomp or eibach struts, or you can buy adjustable coilovers or 6112's.

This is because the diesel engine/trans is the heaviest powertrain and those one-size-fits-all mastercraft springs are about as universal as a one size fits all speedo.

 

[George Anderson]

Forum,
Newby on this site.

Thankfully I finally found the Ram Forum and you who may have been through this.
and might be able to solve an issue that few have any knowledge.

Scenario
I purchased 2016 Ram 1500, limited laramie ecodiesal last May looking for a rugged 4x4 truck to tow my camper and use for work.

The Ram was built in Canada and imported. The suspension work, front end bumper and winch had been done in Canada

I was told it was lifted 6" by the sales manager at BidCars, Walpole Mass, a used car dealership who—despite seeming knowledge and a good reputation known for selling
lots of pickup trucks in particular—was obviously clueless/misled me into the suspension work and that the ride was normal.

The airbags had been removed and a coil suspension installed.
It's running Nitto Grappler 305 55 20 (diameter is close to stock)

The handling and ride has been absolutely terrible…every bump and uneven road shakes vehicle. It even launched
on a highway bump. I drive mainly highway (Rt 93 here in New England) and travel good highways…the seconday roads are virtually impossible to drive with this truck!)

In frustration I took the truck to an experienced suspension shop in NH where I was told by the owner:
There had never been a lift
Spacers had been put in to raise the front end above the struts!

Here were his suggestions.

1) Spend $2500 to do a proper lift with all the components
2) Take out the spacers, find a used bumper and get rid of the winch and aftermarket bumper (and the weight up forward)
3) Sell the vehicle and be done with the situation altogether. (this would involve I'm sure a loss as the truck cost a fair amount

Ive had three 4x4s in my adult life all with winches and heavy duty ft bumpers.
(A land rover, a Toyota Tundra, a Toyota Landcrusier wagon and a Toyota 4 Runner)

I never ran into such poor riding and handling as with this Ram.


The work done on my Ram was obviously done poorly and I was an idiot to not have it checked before purchase by a legitimate after market suspension shop.

Overall the truck has been a good vehicle. Has 78000 miles. It has every option that works for me. I hate to dump it

From what Ive read on the forum some out there understand these trucks and what's worked.
Thanks to anyone who can offer solutions.
JH

Check caster with relation to overall travel of lift kit design. My thought is there is an issue with this. Ball joint trouble? Can be a problem. Upper control arm....

 

[GovernorBudNH]

Heh Guys, Did an experiment on the path to suspension issues:

I realized that I am running nitto 305 55 20 Grapplers. Aggressive tires for sure. THEY ARE 12 PLY.
Totally overkill at 60 lbs a tire as well. I found a set of OEM Goodyear Wrangler 275 60 20s with under 10k miles on them, which are 4 ply and had my mechanic mount and balance. These tires are also 40 lbs each.

The ride difference is much better as every tar strip and ---/Peabody/Salem Mass 3rd world street condition--- does not rattle the RAM. I am still though researching and learning how to address the 6 inch lift and suspension mods that previous owner f#$Ked up. At least now the RAM is a pleasure to drive. Selling the Nittos, any takers?

 

[j-b]

Heh Guys, Did an experiment on the path to suspension issues:

I realized that I am running nitto 305 55 20 Grapplers. Aggressive tires for sure. THEY ARE 12 PLY.
Totally overkill at 60 lbs a tire as well. I found a set of OEM Goodyear Wrangler 275 60 20s with under 10k miles on them, which are 4 ply and had my mechanic mount and balance. These tires are also 40 lbs each.

The ride difference is much better as every tar strip and ---/Peabody/Salem Mass 3rd world street condition--- does not rattle the RAM. I am still though researching and learning how to address the 6 inch lift and suspension mods that previous owner f#$Ked up. At least now the RAM is a pleasure to drive. Selling the Nittos, any takers?

4ply tires will make the ride alot better than the 12 ply's However that is honestly too low to run on a 1/2 ton truck that tows. You should be running a 6ply at minimum - load range C. I would honestly run a D or E depending on your camper weight.

As far as the suspension goes, if you swapped to the correct spring rate struts you would have the factory ride or better back. What you got going now is essentially a fat man riding a childs pogo stick. Contact Nick@gotexhaust on here and he can get you squared away with the best deal on a pair. Your lower control arms should never be going up when under normal driving conditions. They should be flat or going down.

These trucks handle lifts really well when everything is right. In fact many people report them riding better than stock at 4-6" of lift.

 

[GovernorBudNH]

4ply tires will make the ride alot better than the 12 ply's However that is honestly too low to run on a 1/2 ton truck that tows. You should be running a 6ply at minimum - load range C. I would honestly run a D or E depending on your camper weight.

As far as the suspension goes, if you swapped to the correct spring rate struts you would have the factory ride or better back. What you got going now is essentially a fat man riding a childs pogo stick. Contact Nick@gotexhaust on here and he can get you squared away with the best deal on a pair. Your lower control arms should never be going up when under normal driving conditions. They should be flat or going down.

These trucks handle lifts really well when everything is right. In fact many people report them riding better than stock at 4-6" of lift.

Agreed j-b. I've always had load range c or d on previous trucks. It's highway driving without towing my 3500 lb trailer until spring so I have time to accurately "cure" the ride. Contacted Nick. Thanks.

 

[GovernorBudNH]

Going to the OEM 4 Ply tires is an in-expensive solution--- mount and balance only--- until I sort out the suspension.

 

[j-b]

Agreed j-b. I've always had load range c or d on previous trucks. It's highway driving without towing my 3500 lb trailer until spring so I have time to accurately "cure" the ride. Contacted Nick. Thanks.

Awesome! You’re gonna love the truck when you get it all sorted out.

 

[augiedoggy]

I know you followed up on the other forum that going to 4 ply tires made a huge difference to you,(It will likely give you the added benefit of better MPG as well) Did you ever get to replacing the struts yet? I'll mention it here like I did on the other thread, I love my new 5100's on my ecodiesel. The ride was horrible on my ram as well due to the PO lowering it You can purchase new springs and load the adjustable bilstiens with whatever spring you choose.

 

[GovernorBudNH]

I know you followed up on the other forum that going to 4 ply tires made a huge difference to you,(It will likely give you the added benefit of better MPG as well) Did you ever get to replacing the struts yet? I'll mention it here like I did on the other thread, I love my new 5100's on my ecodiesel. The ride was horrible on my ram as well due to the PO lowering it You can purchase new springs and load the adjustable bilstiens with whatever spring you choose.

Hi Augiedoggy, Just back from 300 trip up on highways and secondary roads. Ride is much better...not feeling every tarstrip...quiet and fuel mileage up to 23.5 mpg from 20. I have not sorted out or replaced the struts up forward or shocks in rear as I am still not sure where and how much must be spent to go to next steps? Everyone means well on the two forums but the suggestions are far and wide. I've still not determined parts and cost. EcoDiesel owners are the best info if like you, have been there. I have an email with photos out to BDR auto here in Mass for their take, as they appear to have much off-road suspension expertise. Not in a rush but do want to get to this before spring. Thanks for your input. Can you PM me your parts list? thanks.

 

[MrSoloDolo]

I just got the superlift kit put on mine. Probably will need to also add spacers for the rear because of some rake but its a great lift and good deal. Comes with bilsteins shocks all around.

 

[MrSoloDolo]

i know the heavy bumper up front will throw it off if you dont upgrade some of the suspension components.

 

[augiedoggy]

i know the heavy bumper up front will throw it off if you dont upgrade some of the suspension components.

The winch is where any extra weight he has would be. (only like 50lbs)

Those offroad bumpers only average 10lbs more than stock chrome bumpers... Most are for looks like bull bars and actually crumple in an accident easier than the stock bumpers.. I considered them for my truck but if you look online you will see quite a few rusty dented up ones for sale or trade used.
A "rake" in a truck is when the rear is slightly higher than the front already, its normal and comes stock so when the truck is loaded up you dont have a "Bro Lean" which is when the front sits higher than the rear. its popular to level trucks that owners dont often use the bed or for cosmetic reasons to stuff oversized tires for trucks that dont go offroad much but for practical and gas mileage purposes a little rake is beneficial. When I "leveled" mine I left a little rake because I do still use it as a truck.

 

[kurek]

I don't know why this thread is still going this was solved pages ago.

The diesel powertrain is 250 pounds heavier than the hemi and 470 pounds heavier than the 3.6 . That weight is mostly borne by the front axle. One size fits all springs fit like one size fits all underpants. The solution is front struts and springs that are built for, or adjustable for the actual weight of the engine. That's all. Nothing more and nothing less.

https://www.ramtruck.ca/en_dir/pdf/2015/specifications/1500.pdf

Diesel GVWR - 6950
Diesel 4x4 quad cab 6' box payload - 1400
Diesel base weight 5550

Hemi GVWR - 6900
Hemi 4x4 quad cab 6' box payload - 1600
Hemi base weight 5300

3.6 GVWR 6800
3.6 4x4 quad cab 6' box payload 1720
3.6 base weight 5080

 

[GovernorBudNH]

Thank you for the specs Kurek on the eco-diesel specs; I see where you were going on weight...however since there are as many solutions on this forum as there are worldwide undergarment designs, I was most interested ---educationally, as I am not a mechanic but a regular film-tech guy---in hearing from someone who had an eco-diesel with similar suspension FU's done by a PO, and how exactly it was solved.