Redline and royal purple????

[KKBB]

I have a 2019 2500 with the 6.4. My wife just got a 2021 durango with the 5.7. I was thinking of eventually doing redline oil and royal purple filters. I was thinking of staying with 0w-40 for the 6.4 and 5w-20 for the 5.7. What are your thoughts on this? Also, what royal purple filter number for each application??? I have seen many different filter numbers for the royal purple and am starting to get confused!!! Any other recommendations for me? Thanks!!!

 

[HEMIMANN]

5W-30 summer. 0W-30 winter. Done. Use a synthetic element oil filter - Fram Ultra XG or Royal Purple. Oversizes are Fram XG 10575 or XG2, Royal Purple 20-500 or 20-820.

Literally hundreds, if not thousands, of posts on this in Synthetic Oil Thread, if you're into analysis paralysis.

 

[KKBB]

Thanks Hemimann!!!

 

[retired]

most likely your 6.4L drive train warranty is going to be in effect for a while unless you really put a lot of miles on so why not use what Chrysler recommends ie Pennzoil ultra platinum 0W40?

 

[Farmer Fran]

I run 0W-40 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in my R/T Scat Pack (6.4). I run that car hard - as it should be - this oil is fantastic. As for the filter I will leave that up to you. I use the Mopar filters.

 

[Treburkulosis]

Of the two Redline.

 

[KKBB]

most likely your 6.4L drive train warranty is going to be in effect for a while unless you really put a lot of miles on so why not use what Chrysler recommends ie Pennzoil ultra platinum 0W40?

Correct, my warranty is in effect for a while. I have enough PUP 0w-40 on hand to do 2 more oil changes. I intend to use it up and more than likely continue to use it after that. I was just curious about opinions on the redline. I also use the Mopar filters. We traded my wife's 2015 durango with 116k on it for her new one. Hemi was flawless in that one and I always used pennzoil oil in it. I will probably continue to do the same with her new one...just wanted opinions. Keep them coming. Thanks

 

[Cableman]

For the 5.7 use the srt mopar fiter its bigger, it fits and its better! Part# 5038041AA
RP 20-820 i used also and next im trying the fram xg2.
all good filters with more filtering area and they do fit, entering your information may say doesnt fit but forget that.

 

[EdGs]

I was wondering about using the XG2 in my 2015 5.7. Was trying to compare in the store, but they had no XG2's to compare to the XG10060.

Might have to bite the bullet and get one to check the fit. I like the idea of more filtering area.

 

[Cableman]

I was wondering about using the XG2 in my 2015 5.7. Was trying to compare in the store, but they had no XG2's to compare to the XG10060.

Might have to bite the bullet and get one to check the fit. I like the idea of more filtering area.

Heres a comparison of the stock mopar and a rp 20-820 which is same size as fram xg2

 

[HEMIMANN]

Oil Filter Thread

wow wow wow wow wow! Where'd you get ahold of this data, @Burla ? Is this 'new & improved' Fram Ultra Synthetic XG? It shows best combo of efficiency AND dirt holding capacity. Better than RP! so am I understanding this right that the Fram US XG10575 is the part number to go for?

www.ramforum.com

 

[Burla]

I have a 2019 2500 with the 6.4. My wife just got a 2021 durango with the 5.7. I was thinking of eventually doing redline oil and royal purple filters. I was thinking of staying with 0w-40 for the 6.4 and 5w-20 for the 5.7. What are your thoughts on this? Also, what royal purple filter number for each application??? I have seen many different filter numbers for the royal purple and am starting to get confused!!! Any other recommendations for me? Thanks!!!

Both will take 5w30 perfectly. With all the known cam issues, going with a little more protection is a great idea, a little less then 1/2 the forum uses 5w30 in the last poll. 0w40 redline is nothing compared to 5w30 redline, it is that swing 0 to 40 that is the issue, more vii's. Hemi specific oil srt/pup 0w40 made for the hemi is way thinner then 5w30 redline towards the end of a run.

You can see what we see from the hemi specific oil 0w40 pup, clean base oil, high moly, 40 weight, however the vii's shear and the oil always end up thin through most of the interval. Redline is the same, great base oils and high moly, but it will stay near the same throughout the interval and will be thicker then pup 0w40 for most of the time. In my three uoa's my redline 5w30 was always over 12 cst and you see hammers was under 12 with pup, and he ran for a long time and it was always under 12 despite low miles on every oil change.

5w30 redline is pure hemi honey whether you have the 6.4 or 5.7. Like Hemiman said, if you get cold piston slap in winter then you go 0w30 redline, but if no cold piston slap just use 5w30 redline. 5w30's actually give you better cold protection in the winter then 0w40 as a matter of fact.

A 5w40 would be similar to 0w40 on this chart, as you see in cold temps 30 weights will be better performing. All the zero means is it is the best performance that weight can be, not that that oil will be thinner then a lower weight. Weight trumps winter rating, so other then warranty, I can't see any reason to use 0w40 over a well made 5w30, unless that 5w30 is api because there are less rules for 0w40, but since redline isn't api, it will be greater then 0w40. Generally 0w40's are very well made, but against that specific formula 5w30 redline, there is way more protection for any hemi. better base oils, way less vii's, high moly, more boron, more zddp, every thing a young hemi needs.

 

[Burla]

I'm not saying don't use PUP 0w40, it is a top choice for the 6.4. I just take the brand out of it and talk about the formula, to me brand is irrelevant. The formula 5w30 redline just doesn't have many weaknesses. In fact it's only weaknesses are possible cold piston slap due to it's thick base oil, or high CA which is not great for a direct injection, of which is no concern to hemi owners. But Kyle had cold piston slap but 5w30 was actually least slap in his truck. @U&A can you verify? I lost count of how many ram forum guys are running 5w30 redline in the 5.7, too many to count, no issues.

 

[KKBB]

Thanks for all the replies guys. Its got me thinking....once I run out of my 0w-40 PUP, maybe I go to 5w-30 redline for both of our vehicles, then I only have to carry 1 type and weight of oil

 

[Burla]

The cool thing about that lubrication strategy is it isn't a compromise for either engine, imo it is the top of the heap for either engine. I suppose in a real hard working 6.4 hemi you could make an argument for 5w40 redline which also happens to be a special oil, but that argument can go either way. Much of the "paper" out there before CAFE standards puts the ideal engine oil weight at 35, which is what you would describe redline 5w30 as being. Best for protection and dissipating heat. Mind you now the gov't will label you climate criminal for even thinking about running a protective oil, but call you a hero if you run 0w0, so the newest paper suggests thin for the win, but the hemi isn't a new modern engine. It is an old dinosaur engine that they dressed up with mds/vvt. Low rpm high HP v8 engine, in my opinion it is hardly a coincidence the cam issues started when fca started recommending 20 weight oil in that engine. I am pretty sure the gov't wont pay when your engine needs a cam, so imo you should take care of your equipment like you are responsible for it, go figure. When the gov't says they will pay when my stuff breaks, then I will run p i s s thin oil, til then they can s u c k my boot.

 

[Burla]

I have yet to see a better filter then royal purple 20-820 for the hemi. Maybe there are some equal, but I havent seen better.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Thanks for all the replies guys. Its got me thinking....once I run out of my 0w-40 PUP, maybe I go to 5w-30 redline for both of our vehicles, then I only have to carry 1 type and weight of oil

Just be sure your other vehicle isn't GDI. Those engines have, ahem, "issues" with certain oil additives contributing to Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI), better known as detonation = holes in pistons. The lazy auto industry didn't use dual fuel injectors for their dual combustion engines, so when the single injector in the cylinder head doesn't change fast enough from lean burn to rich burn (stoichiometric), the engine detonates. Slick, huh?

API made a new category SP for this. Interim category is SN+. Make sure any oil you use in a GDI engine has one of those ratings. Red Line does not qualify. Wife's vehicle is a GDI with turbo, so I have to use SP in that. Sticking with PUP 5W-30. Even Mazda recommended 5W-30.....they knew a 5W-20 or 0W-20 weren't sufficient to make turbo and higher pressure cylinders live.

Since we have to change oil on these ba$tardized GDI engines more often (5k) due to the single direct injector putting soot into the oil during rich burn mode (insufficient time for all fuel to burn, unlike intake port-injected engines), no point in using a super expensive, long life oil like AMSOIL. AMSOIL would get just as polluted with soot blowby as any other oil.

 

[Dan Topp]

I’ve tried em all and use amsoil now,for my 1k whp vette diesel merc. turbo Audi and S/C ram.my mix is seasonal 4 qts 5/20 2 qts 5/30 1 qt 5/40 9 oz archoil now.

 

[KKBB]

Just be sure your other vehicle isn't GDI. Those engines have, ahem, "issues" with certain oil additives contributing to Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI), better known as detonation = holes in pistons. The lazy auto industry didn't use dual fuel injectors for their dual combustion engines, so when the single injector in the cylinder head doesn't change fast enough from lean burn to rich burn (stoichiometric), the engine detonates. Slick, huh?

API made a new category SP for this. Interim category is SN+. Make sure any oil you use in a GDI engine has one of those ratings. Red Line does not qualify. Wife's vehicle is a GDI with turbo, so I have to use SP in that. Sticking with PUP 5W-30. Even Mazda recommended 5W-30.....they knew a 5W-20 or 0W-20 weren't sufficient to make turbo and higher pressure cylinders live.

Since we have to change oil on these ba$tardized GDI engines more often (5k) due to the single direct injector putting soot into the oil during rich burn mode (insufficient time for all fuel to burn, unlike intake port-injected engines), no point in using a super expensive, long life oil like AMSOIL. AMSOIL would get just as polluted with soot blowby as any other oil.

What is a GDI engine?

 

[HEMIMANN]

Gasoline Direct Injection. The fuel injector is in the cylinder head instead of in the intake manifold port.

Gasoline engines need stoichiometric ("rich" burn) air-fuel-ratio under load, but can run a lean burn air-fuel-ratio at light / no load. To create the lean burn ratio, engine makers moved the fuel injector from the intake manifold directly into the cylinder head. But that screws up the rich burn mode. Oh, well!