redline oil

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Hipps2000

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Just got me some of the 5w30 redline oil. Hopefully going to get it in next week sometime.

Your gonna love it!!!! I’ll never go back. I even put it in my snow blower a cpl weeks ago and could tell difference immediately. My truck runs smooth.but like Burma said no lie it takes a good while...maybe cpl thousand miles before it really quiets down..I am about to change mine out...first run with redline... about one year and about 7500 miles. I have a blackstone test kit in garage just might send it in for ***** and giggles. If I decide to I’ll post the numbers. Just been so dam cold need a good warm day!
 

Drunken Hamster

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Okay, so I've been looking into a proper oil change since I took the truck to pep-boys for the last one, and, have so far discerned that the two best oils for Hemis are PUP and Redline.

So, my question is. What is the best weight of Redline for Hemis, the best weight of PUP for hemis, and would it be safe or even possibly beneficial to mix them together?
 

Burla

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Best is always subjective, lots of good oils out there, and yes Redline and PUP are two of them. I wouldn't go mixing brands, GtL and Esters/PAO will mix fine but you will dumb down the ester/pao benefits and dumb down the high detergency of PUP. Just pick one or the other. Depending on where you live and if it is cold or not. Down in Florida I would consider 10w30 redline if I was gonna use redline, 5w30 very close second. If I was to use PUP I would go at least some 0w40 mixed with some 5w20, maybe 50/50. Don't be afraid of the 40 weight, at operating temps it is more like a 30 weight, just a little 20 weight and you will be in the 30 weight range for sure. The 40 weight PUP very special oil, good additives, much better then their 20 and 30 weights. So ok to mix to get good additives and a lighter weight.

just as important go get you a Royal Purple or Amsoil filter, read my filter thread in sig.
 

Drunken Hamster

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Best is always subjective, lots of good oils out there, and yes Redline and PUP are two of them. I wouldn't go mixing brands, GtL and Esters/PAO will mix fine but you will dumb down the ester/pao benefits and dumb down the high detergency of PUP. Just pick one or the other. Depending on where you live and if it is cold or not. Down in Florida I would consider 10w30 redline if I was gonna use redline, 5w30 very close second. If I was to use PUP I would go at least some 0w40 mixed with some 5w20, maybe 50/50. Don't be afraid of the 40 weight, at operating temps it is more like a 30 weight, just a little 20 weight and you will be in the 30 weight range for sure. The 40 weight PUP very special oil, good additives, much better then their 20 and 30 weights. So ok to mix to get good additives and a lighter weight.

just as important go get you a Royal Purple or Amsoil filter, read my filter thread in sig.


I did read your filter thread. Decided on RP. Going to get the 30-8a since it's bigger and has the same threading as the 20-253 which is what's recommended for my truck. Hmm, so mixing the PUP and Redline will dumb both down as opposed to combining benefits. Okay.

And yeah, I'm down in Florida, but I might road trip north. To Wisconson/Maine for Christmas and such. The truck needs to be able to see pretty much any weather condition on the continent and be okay. What would more strongly recommend now? Redline or Pup and what weight/weight mix?

I also believe I might have early stage hemi tick. I can hear something in the upper VT, but only if I'm right next to it, or if I'm in a fast food drive through. Could be low/old oil though. It's time for a change and the level is just barely in the safe zone.

I also have to add a ~half quart every ~2k miles. And when the truck was done, I noticed the ticking sound and had to immediately add a half quart. Anything that can fix this? "Restore" additive? Some other additive?
 
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69GWC

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No expert but I think Iam going to go to 10w30 Redline when I change this month.
As you can see it flows well in cold weather.

cf028082-9c32-408b-9922-6c55c0d2dc53_SAE chart.jpeg
 

Burla

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1/2 qrt every 2k miles is pretty normal, I wouldn't sweat that. If you have a tick, redline seams to be the best at killing them. If you have a tick after you try redline, then it likely isn't something changing oil will fix. Additives to consider, lubeguards biotech - poor mans redline, and Mos2. Mos2 try 1/2 the bottle, lubeguards you can use the entire bottle 10 ounce. There are other additives but sometimes they can be dangerous, I would look at the science of an additive before trying it, stay away from oil thickeners or chlorinated Paraffins. Move to 5w30 redline, gives you a better performance in the cold and is just as good as the 10w30. Read 69's chart to see where the 5w30 lays, it buys you -5 more degrees.
 

Drunken Hamster

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1/2 qrt every 2k miles is pretty normal, I wouldn't sweat that. If you have a tick, redline seams to be the best at killing them. If you have a tick after you try redline, then it likely isn't something changing oil will fix. Additives to consider, lubeguards biotech - poor mans redline, and Mos2. Mos2 try 1/2 the bottle, lubeguards you can use the entire bottle 10 ounce. There are other additives but sometimes they can be dangerous, I would look at the science of an additive before trying it, stay away from oil thickeners or chlorinated Paraffins. Move to 5w30 redline, gives you a better performance in the cold and is just as good as the 10w30. Read 69's chart to see where the 5w30 lays, it buys you -5 more degrees.

Okay. Can I ask specifically about "Restore" though? Or would it be better to just use one of those additives/research like you said and be done with it?

As far as weights go, I've seen another chart like that.... So you'd say they're accurate? Hmm, okay, so what about 0w40, 5w40 and 5w50 weight?

This is the chart that had me thinking 5w40. I'm more likely to see the higher temps than ultra low with wanting to go out southwest some time. But, at the same time, this chart also had me thinking to mix 0w40 and 5w40 to split the difference. And then, I got to thinking about the two top oils, and thought to mix those.

But, since you said don't do that, and PUP doesn't make a 5w40 to my knowledge[or well, I can't find it on Summit] then I guess it's redline... IDK, tell my what you think of this chart and 0w40/5w40 redline first. I've read you saying 5w30 redline was top grade, and 10w30 redline was better because it had more moly, but doesn't 0w40 PUP have the most moly?

****, there's just too many variables and information. And I really have to **** ATM, so please get back to me with a smoothing iron so I can finally settle on what to do.
viscosity-guide.png
 

Burla

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I aint gonna go back and re-say what I said, if you would like to do something different I would do some research and go for it. Personally I'm not brave enough to run a 5w40 in a 5.7 with mds, but I know some guys are. The 0w40 PUP is super class oils, it is one of a few companies like m1 and castrol that are thin for weight, and because they are 40 weights they are not hamstrung by CAFE/API sparsity. I will look into restore, give me a minute,

I have to look into viscosities, this is the sds.

Ingredient Name CAS Number % vol Severely

Hydrotreated Heavy Naphthenic Distillate 64742-52-5 85-95%

Proprietary Blend Trade Secret 5-15%
 

Burla

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Google that stuff, I wouldn't be using that in my Ram. GL with your choices, Burla
 

Drunken Hamster

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Google that stuff, I wouldn't be using that in my Ram. GL with your choices, Burla

Okay, thank you. AFAIK my ram [an 05] does not have MDS, so I should be okay for a 5w40, right? If so, I'm thinking of mixing 5w40 RL and 0w40 RL to get the temps range I want based on the chart I posted. Now, it seems you've been saying 10w30 RL is the best RL, but that PUP 0w40 is super special, so seemingly as good as 10w30 RL?

Or did you mean 10w30 RL would be the best for Florida, with 5w30 being a close second if I were going to travel? I swear you said 10w30 RL had more moly... but is it super significant of 0w40 and 5w40? Or significantly more than PUP?

Also, I seem to be understanding that anything over 40wt [ie, 5w50, 10w50, etc.] is not good, correct?
 

Burla

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ok did not know you didn't have mds, I would use what the book says as far as weight. splitting hairs on the best redline when considering 5w30 and 10w30, I would say both are great. The 10w30 has no Vii's but the 5w30 has a base oil that doesn't break down as much under heat and has the best hths you can find.

So best is subjective, one has better wear numbers PUP and one has better performance against hemi tick = redline.

I wouldn't be using anything over 40 weight, what you gain in film you loose in flow. Only super high performance engines that generate much more heat use 50 weights that I know of.

What does your book say as far as weight? One "issue' with redline is it is always thick for weight with exception of 20 weights. So the 30 weights are very close to 40 weights in other brands. So 5w30 redline is damn hearty choice that will likely be thicker then most 0w40's towards the end of your interval.
 

huntergreen

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Okay, thank you. AFAIK my ram [an 05] does not have MDS, so I should be okay for a 5w40, right? If so, I'm thinking of mixing 5w40 RL and 0w40 RL to get the temps range I want based on the chart I posted. Now, it seems you've been saying 10w30 RL is the best RL, but that PUP 0w40 is super special, so seemingly as good as 10w30 RL?

Or did you mean 10w30 RL would be the best for Florida, with 5w30 being a close second if I were going to travel? I swear you said 10w30 RL had more moly... but is it super significant of 0w40 and 5w40? Or significantly more than PUP?

Also, I seem to be understanding that anything over 40wt [ie, 5w50, 10w50, etc.] is not good, correct?


Penzoil is pretty thin. Your using a bit of oil and the 5/30 redline might slow it down. Imho, if you decide to use the redline, I would start with the 5/30 on the first change. Then decide if you want or need to step up to 10/30. Then take it from there and see if you need or want to move up to 40 WTS.
 

Drunken Hamster

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ok did not know you didn't have mds, I would use what the book says as far as weight. splitting hairs on the best redline when considering 5w30 and 10w30, I would say both are great. The 10w30 has no Vii's but the 5w30 has a base oil that doesn't break down as much under heat and has the best hths you can find.

So best is subjective, one has better wear numbers PUP and one has better performance against hemi tick = redline.

I wouldn't be using anything over 40 weight, what you gain in film you loose in flow. Only super high performance engines that generate much more heat use 50 weights that I know of.

What does your book say as far as weight? One "issue' with redline is it is always thick for weight with exception of 20 weights. So the 30 weights are very close to 40 weights in other brands. So 5w30 redline is damn hearty choice that will likely be thicker then most 0w40's towards the end of your interval.

Book says 5w20, but I've read all over the place that numbers like that are to meet CARB spec for FE. The 2500 with the 5.7 hemi [exact same motor] is said to be listed as 5w30.

I looked up the oils on redline's site. The 5w40 has the best HTHS at 4.4, with the 0w40 trailing second at 4.0. Compared to the 5w30 and 10w30 seeing 3.5-3.7. I just don't know about the moly count and if the 40wts, or 5w and 0w have lower moly. I can't tell if you actually implied that the 10w30 had more moly or if that was a mistake, and, if you DID imply that, whether the 40wt oils suffered lower moly or not.

But, hmmm... the redline runs thick for its weight and the PUP runs thin for its weight. IDK where this is sending me... I'm starting to get that nighttime tiredness which makes me a ****. I'll just be quiet and listen for now after posting this here for you.
 

Burla

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I looked up the oils on redline's site. The 5w40 has the best HTHS at 4.4, with the 0w40 trailing second at 4.0. Compared to the 5w30 and 10w30 seeing 3.5-3.7. I just don't know about the moly count and if the 40wts, or 5w and 0w have lower moly. I can't tell if you actually implied that the 10w30 had more moly or if that was a mistake, and, if you DID imply that, whether the 40wt oils suffered lower moly or not.

But, hmmm... the redline runs thick for its weight and the PUP runs thin for its weight. IDK where this is sending me... I'm starting to get that nighttime tiredness which makes me a ****. I'll just be quiet and listen for now after posting this here for you.

Yes, that is why PUP is what I call super class 40 weight oils and Redline isn't. Because when you are talking 40 weight oils, thinner is better if you want at least some fuel mileage performance and better flow and oil pressure. The opposite holds true in 20 and 30 imo because you sacrifice too much protection. That is why the new ram's ask for 0w40, they tend to be right on the line of where 40 weights start.

Anyhow, I would consider either 30 weight redline for your application, and according to rlk the 10w30 pretty much across the board has more good additives. When I said 5w30 had best hths, I meant across all brands, not heavier oils.

Having said all that, PUP 0w40 is also a pretty equal choice.

Kinda simple, PUP 0w40 = 10w30 redline = 5w30 redline.

Just little variances separates them, your PUP will have the most vii's which is why I might say this would be my least favorite but has clean base oil with high detergancy and moly, 10w30 redline has all the goodies in higher numbers and zero vii's, but 5w30 has better hths and better performance in your cold trips. You can't really loose here bud, if you go redline try nick at gotexhaust vendor ram Forum, cheap prices and free shipping. If you want to go thicker, that's on you I wouldn't do it in my ram. All Redline's ester/pao have very high moly, it is their cornerstone.
 

blackbeautyhemi

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I put in the redline 5w-30 and my motor has gotten significantly quieter after 600 miles or so. It seriously sounds so smooth. The temps here in PA have been in single digits/teens pretty regularly the past few weeks and I’ve had no issues and no lights come on. Very happy I went with this weight of oil and a royal purple filter. I did go with the 10-48 filter cause I was afraid of fitment issues with the bigger size mentioned.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Drunken Hamster

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Yes, that is why PUP is what I call super class 40 weight oils and Redline isn't. Because when you are talking 40 weight oils, thinner is better if you want at least some fuel mileage performance and better flow and oil pressure. The opposite holds true in 20 and 30 imo because you sacrifice too much protection. That is why the new ram's ask for 0w40, they tend to be right on the line of where 40 weights start.

Anyhow, I would consider either 30 weight redline for your application, and according to rlk the 10w30 pretty much across the board has more good additives. When I said 5w30 had best hths, I meant across all brands, not heavier oils.

Having said all that, PUP 0w40 is also a pretty equal choice.

Kinda simple, PUP 0w40 = 10w30 redline = 5w30 redline.

Just little variances separates them, your PUP will have the most vii's which is why I might say this would be my least favorite but has clean base oil with high detergancy and moly, 10w30 redline has all the goodies in higher numbers and zero vii's, but 5w30 has better hths and better performance in your cold trips. You can't really loose here bud, if you go redline try nick at gotexhaust vendor ram Forum, cheap prices and free shipping. If you want to go thicker, that's on you I wouldn't do it in my ram. All Redline's ester/pao have very high moly, it is their cornerstone.

Okay. You've pretty much sold me now on 5w30/10w30 redline being the best all around in my ram. I think since I'd rather have it more well rounded in terms of climate, I'll go with the 5w30. Plus it's what the 5.7 asks for in the book [that isn't carb regulated to death] anyway.

So now, after all of that, it's decided. 5w30 Redline and an extended size RP filter. So. Last inquiry. Out of the two additives you listed, what's that whole "poor man's redline" bit mean? If I already am using redline oil, why would I add that? What does each of those do, which would you prefer, and why?
 

Burla

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Good choice, I use 5w30 redline in my ram 3 plus years, prior I used the 5w20 redline. I am a fan of that oil Simply because it ended my hemi tick and I watched it end multiple ticks on this board.

Lubeguard's biotech is the same science, organic oil soluble moly in an ester base. I call it poor mans redline because you would be adding it to 6 quarts of presumably a cheaper synthetic that isn't ester base. So with redline you will be having more % of oil that is the real synthetics ester plus pao. I wouldn't add lubeguard to redline, no reason to. Lubeguard is so close to redline, the question is should you just add a qrt of redline to an oil change instead of lubeguard. But lubeguard isn't set up to run by itself, it isn't a balanced oil, just an additive.
 

tantore

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burla you'r posts make real good sense cause you have search many oils over the years keep up the good work thanks ray
 

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