Replacing Factory Sub/Amp?

[Cableman]

Installed the left and right fronts, what a difference in the highs.
And who needs adaptors! Just pop them off the stocks and solder them on.

 

[cnitty]

Just finished my upgrade all Infinity Ref and Pioneer 8 def worth it!
I also have a extra 3022 and harness if needed.

 

[JamesRam]

If I am just leaving the stock speakers alone and adding subs to the system, can I just tap into the one of the rear speaker wires for the signal to the lc2i to feed the amp?

 

[rotwiler]

If I am just leaving the stock speakers alone and adding subs to the system, can I just tap into the one of the rear speaker wires for the signal to the lc2i to feed the amp?

You can, will have some bass rolloff as volume increases that you can try to correct with the accubass. I originally tapped the stock sub plug wires before I went with the Amp pro ch41. Even if you just add some Gx302 3.5s to each corner, will make huge clarity difference in sound. The OEM alpine dash speakers have no actual tweeter, is just a crappy paper cone, really low quality.

 

[JamesRam]

Would the stock sub wires be better for rolloff vs the speaker wires?

 

[Cableman]

What you guys think about just adding tweeter to the stock rears? There's a half inch of room between the mesh and the door grill, i figure cut a round hole in that mesh and sink it into that.
Its not a bad constructed speaker, just needs some crisp highs.

 

[TomT]

What you guys think about just adding tweeter to the stock rears? There's a half inch of room between the mesh and the door grill, i figure cut a round hole in that mesh and sink it into that.
Its not a bad constructed speaker, just needs some crisp highs.

You mean just add a tweeter to the existing wiring? You need to make sure it doesn’t change the impedance that the factory amp is seeing.

Beyond that, you would probably be better off swapping in a coaxial speaker since it will have a built-in crossover to protect the tweeter. Again, make sure the coaxial matches the impedance of the factory driver.

 

[Cableman]

You mean just add a tweeter to the existing wiring? You need to make sure it doesn’t change the impedance that the factory amp is seeing.

Beyond that, you would probably be better off swapping in a coaxial speaker since it will have a built-in crossover to protect the tweeter. Again, make sure the coaxial matches the impedance of the factory driver.

Yeah i was just thinking lol
Wonder what the impedance would change to by tapping in some 4ohm tweeters parallel, would it make the whole speaker 4ohms? I think most come with inline crossovers?

 

[Midnight Storm]

I did the net audio plug and play harness made for the trucks with the alpine sub. A single 10 jl sub with an alpine 500w amp in a cheap Atrend box and I’m very satisfied, especially now since the sub has broken in.
Don’t forget to swap your dash and rear door speakers with the infinity or jbl’s!

 

[Cableman]

Is there a t-harness out there i can plug in between the 8.4 and stock alpine amp that will allow me to get a signal for a sub using the new key 500-1 kicker amp?
Was gonna go with the amppro ch41 but i dont think its needed with these key amps. Anyone confirm that?

 

[Apac]

@JamesRam I used the factory subs wires under the rear seat to feed a LC2i line out converter, ran that to a Kicker CXA600.1 amp feeding 2 Kicker C10 subs. Remote bass knob for adjustments on the fly. All in, about $500 in cash and about 3 hours of labor. Plenty of bump. I highly recommend replacing the factory speakers in the dash corners, rear doors, headliner, front doors, in that order.

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I'm going to be running a very similar setup I'm just using 10 inch Alpine Subs because they're shallow could not be shallow mount sub and they hold the 600 RMS watts which is perfect for my 1200.1 Kicker amp. But I am also really wanting to replace the factory amp with the full-range speakers because they're less than Stellar.