Wild one
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2016
- Posts
- 14,077
- Reaction score
- 24,439
- Ram Year
- 14 Sport
- Engine
- 5.7
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
You were only going 56mph on that road?
I would be doing 150.. hahahaah
At that points it’s just as easy to leave the heater block and install the blocking plate with rtv.So I got the RevMax kit.... I know I know, its 100 bucks but its a lot less work then drilling and tapping threads ect. Anyway I was under there today to get a start on it and there is another way to get rid of the entire heater if you wanted to that doesn't require tapping and using set screws.
The threaded holes that hold the heater onto the 3-way valve are thru holes, you can just use the existing bolts with the RevMax blocking plate and some RTV and seal up the 3-way without bolting back the heating. Cut and remove the heater and lines as needed and block the ports at the return to radiator and the thermostat housing. Only issue I could see is the plate isn't rigid (thick) enough to bolt down by itself and form a good seal with the RTV
I dont remember this being brought up in the 50+ pages
So I got the RevMax kit.... I know I know, its 100 bucks but its a lot less work then drilling and tapping threads ect. Anyway I was under there today to get a start on it and there is another way to get rid of the entire heater if you wanted to that doesn't require tapping and using set screws.
The threaded holes that hold the heater onto the 3-way valve are thru holes, you can just use the existing bolts with the RevMax blocking plate and some RTV and seal up the 3-way without bolting back the heating. Cut and remove the heater and lines as needed and block the ports at the return to radiator and the thermostat housing. Only issue I could see is the plate isn't rigid (thick) enough to bolt down by itself and form a good seal with the RTV
I dont remember this being brought up in the 50+ pages
Nice pics........bet the view in person even better......LoL
I looked at that option,but you'll never get it sealed with a 1/16" plate that big,so i didn't even mention it.I didn't want anybody to try it,and when it didn't work and they dumped all the tranny fluid on the ground and cooked their transmission,they'd then try to hold me responsible and basically blame me for it,lol. Why didn't you get ahold of Caulk and get one of his bypass plugs Matt,it's cheaper and simpler to install or remove if you do have to return the truck to stock. It also gives you a fancy brass plug to replace the factory plastic plug,if that was what you were after.
Rick
Ha well thats why I threw in the caveat Proceed at your own risk
I had already had the RevMax kit ordered and couldn't cancel it so I didn't want to bother with returning it and most likely being charged a restocking fee, pay for return shipping or both.
If i was you,i wouldn't even have mentioned it,lol.
I will mention this though, the transmission fluid that came out of the heater was dirty, really surprised at only 40K miles. Needless to say I will be changing the fluid pronto, was gonna wait till 60K but not anymore.
I ain't saying nothing,but my truck has seen 153mph on the Mexican version of those roads,lol. I'm in a good area,that's basically going east out my front door,turn around and go west and you get roads like this into the mountains.
Last night i was more interested in seeing where the cars 8 speed ran for temps,if i was babying it,basically driving it with an egg under the foot on the skinny pedal,to see if 130F is to cold for the 8 speed,by the looks of it,i think 130F might be closer to an ideal operating temp for it,as the car just barely got to 111F when i was babying it for 40 miles.
View attachment 240612
View attachment 240613
View attachment 240614
The threaded holes that hold the heater onto the 3-way valve are thru holes, you can just use the existing bolts with the RevMax blocking plate and some RTV and seal up the 3-way without bolting back the heating. Cut and remove the heater and lines as needed and block the ports at the return to radiator and the thermostat housing. Only issue I could see is the plate isn't rigid (thick) enough to bolt down by itself and form a good seal with the RTV
I dont remember this being brought up in the 50+ pages
Finally had a nice enough day to dig my truck out and see how this mod works. I did a couple back to back hard launches and ran the truck up to 100mph on the first pull and 110 on the sec pull,(no nitrous,just motor pulls),the hottest the tranny got to was 132F, as soon as i slowed back down to 75mph,the tranny dropped down to 128F and stayed there for the 25mile drive back home. Outdoor temp was 18C/ 65F,my truck is equipped with the PPE transmission pan,and a 160F thermostat. I never noticed any differance in coolant temps or oil temps ,but the majority of the rad shutters have been removed on my truck,and i run the free'r flowing honeycomb grill in my Sport. I've also converted my truck back to the earlier heater hose set-up,and bypassed the 3 way valve on the frame of my 14.Gotta admit i'm liking this mod even more now,i might even go back to a 170 or 180 t-stat ,still on the fence about that idea though,lol.
What oil are you running in your truck? I just installed a 180F t-stat (Mishimoto) and removed 8 out of 12 shutters and now the oil won't get even up to 200F. I run 0W-40 M1 but I might go back to 5W-20 now that my temps are lower.
I like 5w30 myself. Was 38 psi idle and 51 psi cruising and generally around 200° oil temp. 190° tstat