Shuddering from somewhere at the back of the truck when turning- 2018 ram 1500

[corneileous]

Na now i just like making you look like the fool you are,which isn't really all that hard to do
It's also fun watching you get your panties all wound up

The only person you’re making look like a fool is you and no, my underdraws are far from wound. Yours, on the other hand, gotta be cuttin’ off circulation by now, ain’t they? Guess maybe ‘they’ ain’t big enough to be affected, I presume?

 

[MGL79]

I have the same model and for the 2nd or 3rd rear differential change I had it done at at shop that told me the anti-slip additive came in the differential fluid. BIG LIE! Always rumbled turning right or left from a stop. Took it to another shop and had them change the fluid and use the separate additive. No more rumble or slipping. Have 150K miles in the truck currently.

 

[nlambert182]

So in summary.... you asked an online forum for advice on the the proper maintenance on the rear diff. Then you denied listening to that advice because it's an online forum. Then you look up the specs online, follow those, and they're wrong. You go to the paper manual, and it's what the online forum told you before.

Got it.

 

[corneileous]

I have the same model and for the 2nd or 3rd rear differential change I had it done at at shop that told me the anti-slip additive came in the differential fluid. BIG LIE! Always rumbled turning right or left from a stop. Took it to another shop and had them change the fluid and use the separate additive. No more rumble or slipping. Have 150K miles in the truck currently.

Nice. Like I told somebody else, that RedLine stuff I used supposedly has friction modifier in it but I have no idea how much and regardless how much it has, I put about 5 ounces in it.

 

[corneileous]

So in summary.... you asked an online forum for advice on the the proper maintenance on the rear diff. Then you denied listening to that advice because it's an online forum. Then you look up the specs online, follow those, and they're wrong. You go to the paper manual, and it's what the online forum told you before.

Got it.

Man, I’d be ashamed if I were you. You sharing the same brain as @Wild one??

What part of my post did you not understand when I said basically nobody said that’s what my truck actually calls for and that it was wrong information that
I found online?

Nobody specifically told me 75W140 is what my truck came with from the factory. You know, there’s people on this site that really push 5W-30 engine oil which, for those of you that do, I’m not saying you’re wrong, I’m just using it as an example so how was I supposed to know that 140 recommendation was legit? I don’t believe anybody ever said that’s what the book calls for on my truck if I’ve got the 3.92 rear end.

It’s pretty goshdern sad I have to explain it to yet another person when I just literally typed it out black and white and explained it to somebody else. *SMDH*

EDITED TO ADD:
Went back and looked and well, stop acting like the forum is 100 perfect because Mr. wild boy said my manual was gonna call for 75W85; which, he’s wrong because that’s what it only calls for in the front differential…..

 

[Hardracer]

Man...I hate to jump in here also....
The folks here on the forum are about sharing knowledge...be it from a manual online,paper or writings on a dam cave wall.....they've been there, done that and know what works and what doesnt......but they share the knowledge because they enjoy helping others...and 9 times outta 10 your vehicle will last longer because of it....if it doesn't you knew what could happen.
Besides that your here asking for help or ideas of what the problem is...correct?
Like the tranny talk in this post...been noted that they ship with fluid levels low...is that in any manual?..seriously boubt it..different kind of knowledge..ill call it street knowledge.
I think its rediculous for you to argue a mute point about your warr..(especially to a fella that was in the warr.bidness..yes i wrote bidness..my goodness man!)i guarantee you he knows all the tricks of the trade....better get ready for a long arguing session with "ma mopar"...as others have said already..what good is a warr.if no parts are available and your out of a vehicle for months maybe years on end?
You already stated you beat the hell outta your vehicle...do you think dealers don't have the same abilities to be apart of these forums and see what you've written?..
This forum has help me plenty over the years.
My .02..no need to reply to me.

 

[Wild one]

Just for the record guys Mr Cornhead has had issues with other posters,when he's asked for help and then he ignores the advice he receives and gets his panties all wound up,because the advice he's received isn't what he think it should be.Hell i went to bat for him one time,as he was getting reamed out pretty good,and i thought he'd learned his lesson,and had started to listen to the advice he was receiving ,but it appears not.
He's to smart for his own good,and when he gets advice he doesn't like,he reverts to name calling and bashing

 

[Docwagon1776]

You know, there’s people on this site that really push 5W-30 engine oil which, for those of you that do, I’m not saying you’re wrong, I’m just using it as an example so how was I supposed to know that 140 recommendation was legit?

I don't know if all year manuals have this or not, but:

NOTE: MOPAR® SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to FCA US Material Standard MS-6395 may be used when SAE 5W-20 engine oil meeting MS-6395 is not available.

and, in an older manual when 2500s could still come with one:

For 2500/3500 trucks with a 5.7L engine operating under a gross combined weight rating of 14,000 lbs (6350 kg) or greater, SAE 5W-30 engine oil is recommended for all operating temperatures.

Sometimes different year manuals recommend different things and nothing mechanical has changed, which isn't unique to Ram. Lighter oil to eek out a bit more fuel economy or heavier oil after failure analysis, etc.

 

[corneileous]

Man...I hate to jump in here also....
The folks here on the forum are about sharing knowledge...be it from a manual online,paper or writings on a dam cave wall.....they've been there, done that and know what works and what doesnt......but they share the knowledge because they enjoy helping others...and 9 times outta 10 your vehicle will last longer because of it....if it doesn't you knew what could happen.
Besides that your here asking for help or ideas of what the problem is...correct?
Like the tranny talk in this post...been noted that they ship with fluid levels low...is that in any manual?..seriously boubt it..different kind of knowledge..ill call it street knowledge.
I think its rediculous for you to argue a mute point about your warr..(especially to a fella that was in the warr.bidness..yes i wrote bidness..my goodness man!)i guarantee you he knows all the tricks of the trade....better get ready for a long arguing session with "ma mopar"...as others have said already..what good is a warr.if no parts are available and your out of a vehicle for months maybe years on end?
You already stated you beat the hell outta your vehicle...do you think dealers don't have the same abilities to be apart of these forums and see what you've written?..
This forum has help me plenty over the years.
My .02..no need to reply to me.

Well, your reply was totally not necessary, so here’s my reply whether you asked for it or not.

But let’s clear a couple things up-

First off, I never said I ‘flog the hell out of’ my truck. I said I drive it hard- there’s a big difference. It’s not a garage queen, but it’s also not some farm mule with 10-plys and a manual t-case. I keep it clean, maintained, and it does what it was built to do.

Second, the point I made from the start was about Mopar’s documentation being inconsistent. The online manual literally omits the axle-specific spec, so following it isn’t ‘arguing a moot point’- it’s following what Mopar published.

And for the record, just because someone worked in a warranty department for a few years doesn’t make them an oracle. I’m not badmouthing the guy in any way but my And for the record, just because someone worked in a warranty department for a few years doesn’t make them an oracle. My MaxCare contract specifically requires following Mopar’s specs; not what someone says on the Internet. I even asked him to show me where I was wrong, and so far, crickets.

I respect opinions- hell, that’s why I asked. But there’s a difference between sharing knowledge and treating your hunch like gospel. I should know a little bit more today, but so far the shudder’s already gone, so maybe let’s hold off on the ‘you’re killing your truck’ sermon.

 

[corneileous]

Just for the record guys Mr Cornhead has had issues with other posters,when he's asked for help and then he ignores the advice he receives and gets his panties all wound up,because the advice he's received isn't what he think it should be.Hell i went to bat for him one time,as he was getting reamed out pretty good,and i thought he'd learned his lesson,and had started to listen to the advice he was receiving ,but it appears not.
He's to smart for his own good,and when he gets advice he doesn't like,he reverts to name calling and bashing

I don’t know why I even bothered responding to you anymore because even my little two-year-old grandson listens better than you do but I’ve never ‘ignored’ anyone’s advice — I’ve asked questions when the info didn’t line up, which is exactly what forums are for. If pointing out contradictions between Mopar’s own documents counts as ‘getting my panties wound up,’ that says more about who’s listening than who’s asking.

You can keep trying to make this about me, or you can address one of the subjects of the thread: Mopar’s online manual vs. printed specs. I’ll stick to the facts and my own wrench time. You can keep rewriting history if that helps you sleep. Besides; how about giving a little bit more information before just blurting out some random oil weight if the person talking about the problem doesn’t know? Yeah yeah, I know that’s asking way too much from somebody like you.

 

[corneileous]

I don't know if all year manuals have this or not, but:



and, in an older manual when 2500s could still come with one:



Sometimes different year manuals recommend different things and nothing mechanical has changed, which isn't unique to Ram. Lighter oil to eke out a bit more fuel economy or heavier oil after failure analysis, etc.

Yeah, the manual for my 3rd gen 1500 said that and being in that I came to the fourth generation ram truck at the very end of the game, I don’t know which trucks that was ok for but I can tell you that manual for my truck doesn’t say that.

But you know, this isn’t an argument about what dodge or ram used to let us do versus right now; I only referred to the PDF version of my manual on the Mopar site which, if I would’ve known better, I would’ve ignored that and looked up what it said in my own printed paper manual.

The only reason why I made the reference to 5W-20 or 5W-30 engine oil is because of how a lot of folks on here and other places, even if your manual doesn’t say that it’s OK to use 5W-30 in place of 5W-20, they’ll still tell you to do it anyways so how was I supposed to know this wasn’t one of those times when one or two people told me to use 75W-140? Because like I said, I had already read what the Mopar website manual said to use which was 75W-90 weight and unless I missed it, I never saw where anybody said anything like if you have the 3.92 rear end, the book actually calls for that specific weight.

 

[Wild one]

Yeah, the manual for my 3rd gen 1500 said that and being in that I came to the fourth generation ram truck at the very end of the game, I don’t know which trucks that was ok for but I can tell you that manual for my truck doesn’t say that.

But you know, this isn’t an argument about what dodge or ram used to let us do versus right now; I only referred to the PDF version of my manual on the Mopar site which, if I would’ve known better, I would’ve ignored that and looked up what it said in my own printed paper manual.

The only reason why I made the reference to 5W-20 or 5W-30 engine oil is because of how a lot of folks on here and other places, even if your manual doesn’t say that it’s OK to use 5W-30 in place of 5W-20, they’ll still tell you to do it anyways so how was I supposed to know this wasn’t one of those times when one or two people told me to use 75W-140? Because like I said, I had already read what the Mopar website manual said to use which was 75W-90 weight and unless I missed it, I never saw where anybody said anything like if you have the 3.92 rear end, the book actually calls for that specific weight.

Read the note at the bottom,this is from the 700 pg printed manual which you don't have,you used to have to phone to get it.Even Ma Mopar says 5W-30 is okay to use.It used to also be in the online manuals up till about 2018,then they were forced to remove it,because apparently the trucks didn't meet they're claimed milege numbers good enough for the nannies in power
BTW you've had issues before with advice you didn't like,from well respected members,and don't tell me you,you don't remember when i went to bat for you,as i thought your &ss was getting reamed a bit hard because of your stupidity of not listening to good advice

 

[corneileous]

Read the note at the bottom,this is from the 700 pg printed manual which you don't have,you used to have to phone to get it.Even Ma Mopar says 5W-30 is okay to use.It used to also be in the online manuals up till about 2018,then they were forced to remove it,because apparently the trucks didn't meet they're claimed milege numbers good enough for the nannies in power
BTW you've had issues before with advice you didn't like,from well respected members,and don't tell me you,you don't remember when i went to bat for you,as i thought your &ss was getting reamed a bit hard because of your stupidity of not listening to good advice

What are you talking about? I know what my printed manual says, and I guess if I have to, I’ll take a picture of the thing and prove to you that it does not say anything about using 5W-20. They quit doing that years ago. Hell, I can even tell from the font of the manual you used and that’s an old manual. That’s the font that my old 2008 used.

And for one thing, I don’t care what happened in the past because this isn’t one of those times. The only problem I’ve had in this discussion is with people like you who don’t listen. You really are one of those people who should not give advice. So what if you were one of the ones to tell me to use 75W 140; you didn’t explain anything else, you just blurted that out. You don’t know what rear axle I have because if I would’ve had the 3.31 rear end, what I used is what I was supposed to have used.

And another thing- since you continue bringing it up, if you’re gonna act like how you have and how you currently are, I don’t need your help.

 

[Wild one]

What are you talking about? I know what my printed manual says, and I guess if I have to, I’ll take a picture of the thing and prove to you that it does not say anything about using 5W-20. They quit doing that years ago. Hell, I can even tell from the font of the manual you used and that’s an old manual. That’s the font that my old 2008 used.

And for one thing, I don’t care what happened in the past because this isn’t one of those times. The only problem I’ve had in this discussion is with people like you who don’t listen. You really are one of those people who should not give advice. So what if you were one of the ones to tell me to use 75W 140; you didn’t explain anything else, you just blurted that out. You don’t know what rear axle I have because if I would’ve had the 3.31 rear end, what I used is what I was supposed to have used.

And another thing- since you continue bringing it up, if you’re gonna act like how you have and how you currently are, I don’t need your help.

You're to stupid to know you're printed manual tells you to use 5W-20,lol.
The manual was in play up till 2018,dumb-ass and was available by phoning for it.
I even got all 3 printed manuals for my wifes 2019 Challenger as they were still available for it,when it was new.
When Stellentis took over alot of that stuff went by the wayside.
The manual i have was for my 14,little tidbit for you,nothing changed between 14 and 18 as far as clearances go in the engine,so what applied in 14 also applied in 18 the year your truck was manufactured
Font that out your ass dumb-ass

 

[Grams]

Mr. Corneileous, I raced thru these posts primarily to see if you eventually took the advice you requested and acted upon it…. and before long I was tempted to just quit reading the responses…
However, here goes…

You came and asked for advice on a “shudder” from the rear-end (which you identified as a limited slip type) and mentioned it occurred while turning and accelerating from a stop…. Classic symptoms of slipping clutches in a L.S. rear end, (which might also be due to under-spec-lubricant, despite it being OEM.)

You decided that those who were familiar with this symptom weren’t sufficiently knowledgeable to follow their advice to replace the lubricant with fresh.
To support that viewpoint you suggested that to replace lubricant might invalidate your warranty…. when, in fact, the service intervals of these vehicles are quite clear that the recommendations are only that…recommendations…but provide length-of-service which are limiting in order to maintain warranty coverage.
(In other words….just because you change engine oil at 3K miles instead of a longer suggested mileage…you suggest that would invalidate your warranty. I hope you see how incorrect that position is.)

Service intervals are MAXIMUM intervals…not minimums.

You’ve become defensive to the point of being obtuse and argumentative at a party in which you are a guest.

The LEAST HAZARDOUS ACTION you can take is to REPLACE the rear axle fluid with fresh fluid which meets the mfr’s specifications. It WILL EITHER fix your complaint…OR…have no effect. It will do absolutely NO HARM to the axle OR your warranty.

You would appear gracious and impressive should you apologize to everyone you’ve insulted… try the suggested actions…and Report Back as to the Outcome….. Which, in itself, will either prove everyone else right…or wrong…. but in NONE of Your responses, will it prove You to have been correct.

Hope this helps.

 

[corneileous]

Mr. Corneileous, I raced thru these posts primarily to see if you eventually took the advice you requested and acted upon it…. and before long I was tempted to just quit reading the responses…
However, here goes…

You came and asked for advice on a “shudder” from the rear-end (which you identified as a limited slip type) and mentioned it occurred while turning and accelerating from a stop…. Classic symptoms of slipping clutches in a L.S. rear end, (which might also be due to under-spec-lubricant, despite it being OEM.)

You decided that those who were familiar with this symptom weren’t sufficiently knowledgeable to follow their advice to replace the lubricant with fresh.
To support that viewpoint you suggested that to replace lubricant might invalidate your warranty…. when, in fact, the service intervals of these vehicles are quite clear that the recommendations are only that…recommendations…but provide length-of-service which are limiting in order to maintain warranty coverage.
(In other words….just because you change engine oil at 3K miles instead of a longer suggested mileage…you suggest that would invalidate your warranty. I hope you see how incorrect that position is.)

Service intervals are MAXIMUM intervals…not minimums.

You’ve become defensive to the point of being obtuse and argumentative at a party in which you are a guest.

The LEAST HAZARDOUS ACTION you can take is to REPLACE the rear axle fluid with fresh fluid which meets the mfr’s specifications. It WILL EITHER fix your complaint…OR…have no effect. It will do absolutely NO HARM to the axle OR your warranty.

You would appear gracious and impressive should you apologize to everyone you’ve insulted… try the suggested actions…and Report Back as to the Outcome….. Which, in itself, will either prove everyone else right…or wrong…. but in NONE of Your responses, will it prove You to have been correct.

Hope this helps.

Actually, it doesn’t.

Appreciate the essay, but maybe read the ENTIRE thread before writing one. The issue wasn’t “ignored advice”…… I changed the diff fluid, so far cured the shudder, and even explained that my concern about the warranty was over the transmission, not the rear diff.

So yeah, the problem’s already fixed- at least for now but thanks for showing up after the fact to lecture me on something I’ve already done and for something else that you let go entirely over your head.

 

[Grams]

Actually, it doesn’t.

Appreciate the essay, but maybe read the ENTIRE thread before writing one. The issue wasn’t “ignored advice”…… I changed the diff fluid, so far cured the shudder, and even explained that my concern about the warranty was over the transmission, not the rear diff.

So yeah, the problem’s already fixed- at least for now but thanks for showing up after the fact to lecture me on something I’ve already done and for something else that you let go entirely over your head.

Yep…. as I reluctantly feared but must admit…you are an ungrateful asss.

 

[corneileous]

You're to stupid to know you're printed manual tells you to use 5W-20,lol.
The manual was in play up till 2018,dumb-ass and was available by phoning for it.
I even got all 3 printed manuals for my wifes 2019 Challenger as they were still available for it,when it was new.
When Stellentis took over alot of that stuff went by the wayside.
The manual i have was for my 14,little tidbit for you,nothing changed between 14 and 18 as far as clearances go in the engine,so what applied in 14 also applied in 18 the year your truck was manufactured
Font that out your ass dumb-ass

You’re gonna make me do it, aren’t you? Well, for you, sure. Even though I got things to do, I took the time to take some pictures for you. Look at these pictures real hard and tell me where it says that I can use 5W-30 engine oil in place of 5W-20. if you’re too ignorant to tell, hopefully you should be able to see that these were taken from the very manual that came with my truck when I bought it. And no, my truck was not made in 2018 it was made in October 2017. I’ll wait. So again you have the audacity to call me stupid? I don’t know what kind of medication you’re on, but you need to talk to your doctor about it.


Had to edit my post because @Wild one doesn’t seem to understand that people can say things by accident that don’t mean.

 

[corneileous]

Yep…. as I reluctantly feared but must admit…you are an ungrateful asss.

So I correct you that the issue was not about not wanting to service my differentials, I’m still an ungrateful asss. Wow. Just so you know, you’re no better than select folks that have responded here.

Like I said; instead of racing through only half the discussion, read it all before you open your mouth.

 

[Ritchie_Rich]

You’re missing the point completely; it’s not about whether they’d catch it, it’s about not giving them the excuse. Warranty inspectors don’t have to prove I caused it; they just need a plausible reason to deny the claim. You hand them evidence that the trans was opened, they stamp ‘customer tampering’ on the report and walk away. End of story.

I didn’t drop four grand on a MaxCare lifetime plan just to gamble it away over a half-quart of fluid. If the owners manual doesn’t list a service interval for the ZF8HP, that’s my paper trail. I’ll let Mopar eat the bill when it fails….because I stayed in spec. That’s how grown-ups handle warranty work.

But you’re confusing scheduled maintenance with breaking factory procedure. My engine, diffs, cooling system, brakes, and t-case all have published service intervals; my ZF8HP does not. That’s the distinction you keep missing. Mopar’s warranty wording doesn’t say ‘go digging into sealed components just to make yourself feel handy’; it says ‘follow manufacturer recommendations.’

When you have this kind of warranty, the fluid level on this transmission isn’t routine service. You leave it sealed, you’re in compliance. You screw with it and if they do find out, you’re the one footing the bill. And when the day comes that transmission quits, Mopar’s gonna pay for it…. because I didn’t touch it.

Why is that such a hard concept for you to understand? My guess is, you don’t have this kind of a warranty so you’re speaking about stuff you have no idea about. This is also why I still continue to use 5W-20 engine oil but I don’t use the cheap crap that Mopar calls for because I have that ability as long as it’s the same weight and it meets the Chrysler MS 6395 compliance, I can use whatever I want. Same with oil filters; as long as it meets and/or exceeds Chrysler spec, I’m good. And the gear oil that I ordered is what the spec calls for as well. I’m not saying you guys are wrong about using the 75W140 in my rear differential, but because it is limited slip, and whenever something happens to that, I don’t need them giving me a bunch of grief because I used too heavy of an oil.

Bottom line, if you don’t know how this Mopar max care lifetime warranty works that they don’t even offer anymore, don’t go telling somebody what to do.

Seems to me you are already giving them an excuse to deny coverage by not properly maintaining your truck. Maintaining proper fluid levels is part of the maintenance.