Shuddering from somewhere at the back of the truck when turning- 2018 ram 1500

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corneileous

corneileous

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Okay dig out your warrenty contract and point out exactly where it says you can't check the fluid level in the transmission.You're not servicing it,you're checking the fluid level,so find us the specific paragraph that states you can't check the level.
I can see it telling you it doesn't need servicing,but i highly doubt it states you can't check the fluid level,but if you find us a paragraph that specifically states you can't check the fluid level,i'll digress and say you're right,but i want you to circle the paragraph specifically saying you can't check the fluid level in the transmission when you post the picture of your contract
The owner’s manual and the official FCA maintenance guide for my 2018 Ram list service intervals for the engine, diffs, t-case, coolant, and brakes — but no scheduled maintenance for the 8-speed transmission. That omission is deliberate; it means there is no owner-service procedure for that component.

The Max Care contract explicitly ties coverage to following that schedule. That’s the clause that matters. So by definition, performing any service not on that list is outside manufacturer procedure.

In warranty language, omission equals exclusion. If the book doesn’t tell me to touch it, the safest—and contractually
correct—choice is to leave it sealed.

This is why I do not have to show you something my contract does not say, which is actually saying the words that I’m not allowed to check the fluid. Come on bro, it’s not rocket science.
 
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corneileous

corneileous

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I hate myself a little for wading in to this, but that's a one way street. It means you have to maintain to *the minimum standard* set forth in the guide, not that you can't exceed it.

If you change your motor oil every 2k miles, would that void your contract?

There's no interval for brake fluid set forth in the manual, would it void the warranty to change brake fluid?

(I worked in the extended warranty world for 3 years, it's a scammy business even with "legit", but I've never seen or even heard of a contract questioned based on too much preventative maintenance)
That comparison doesn’t work, and here’s why. Engine oil and brake fluid are owner-serviceable items. The manual lists them under regular maintenance, complete with specs and procedures — which means I can change them as often as I like without touching anything I’m not authorized to.

The 8-speed transmission isn’t in that category. It’s omitted because Mopar classifies it as a sealed, dealer-level system. There’s no owner procedure, no dipstick, and the fluid check requires diagnostic-mode temperature readings. That makes it a service only the manufacturer or an authorized shop is supposed to perform.

Changing oil early or flushing brakes doesn’t void a warranty because those tasks are within the documented maintenance scope. Opening a system that the book doesn’t list as serviceable is outside that scope — that’s the whole difference.

You mentioned you worked in the warranty business; fair enough. Maybe those plans operated differently. But with Mopar MaxCare, the language is explicit: coverage depends on following the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule. So yes, in this case, that literally means following the owner’s manual to the letter.

Again, this isn’t about what’s mechanically smart; it’s about what’s contractually safe. The moment I perform a service that Chrysler never authorized, I hand them a reason to deny coverage; and that’s a gamble I’m not taking.
 

Wild one

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The owner’s manual and the official FCA maintenance guide for my 2018 Ram list service intervals for the engine, diffs, t-case, coolant, and brakes — but no scheduled maintenance for the 8-speed transmission. That omission is deliberate; it means there is no owner-service procedure for that component.

The Max Care contract explicitly ties coverage to following that schedule. That’s the clause that matters. So by definition, performing any service not on that list is outside manufacturer procedure.

In warranty language, omission equals exclusion. If the book doesn’t tell me to touch it, the safest—and contractually
correct—choice is to leave it sealed.

This is why I do not have to show you something my contract does not say, which is actually saying the words that I’m not allowed to check the fluid. Come on bro, it’s not rocket science.
So nowhere does it specifically state you can't check the fluid level in the transmission,you're just assuming you can't,even though it doesn't say anything to that fact.
God help you bud as you're way to gullible if you assume it's telling you,that you can't check the fluid level in your own transmission.
BTW you don't need dealer level tools to check the transmissions temperature,it's right there in your evicc,you're really grasping at straws now.
Read #5 what does it tell you after the "or"
My head hurts now from dealing with you,so you carry on with your gibberish,even though it doesn't make sense to a normal person
 

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Docwagon1776

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That comparison doesn’t work, and here’s why. Engine oil and brake fluid are owner-serviceable items. The manual lists them under regular maintenance, complete with specs and procedures — which means I can change them as often as I like without touching anything I’m not authorized to.

The 8-speed transmission isn’t in that category. It’s omitted because Mopar classifies it as a sealed, dealer-level system. There’s no owner procedure, no dipstick, and the fluid check requires diagnostic-mode temperature readings. That makes it a service only the manufacturer or an authorized shop is supposed to perform.

Changing oil early or flushing brakes doesn’t void a warranty because those tasks are within the documented maintenance scope. Opening a system that the book doesn’t list as serviceable is outside that scope — that’s the whole difference.

You mentioned you worked in the warranty business; fair enough. Maybe those plans operated differently. But with Mopar MaxCare, the language is explicit: coverage depends on following the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule. So yes, in this case, that literally means following the owner’s manual to the letter.

Again, this isn’t about what’s mechanically smart; it’s about what’s contractually safe. The moment I perform a service that Chrysler never authorized, I hand them a reason to deny coverage; and that’s a gamble I’m not taking.

Like I said, I worked in this space for 3 years. You're wrong on at least 3 things you said here, but do what helps you sleep at night. I don't care enough to argue it further.
 
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So nowhere does it specifically state you can't check the fluid level in the transmission,you're just assuming you can't,even though it doesn't say anything to that fact.
God help you bud as you're way to gullible if you assume it's telling you,that you can't check the fluid level in your own transmission.
BTW you don't need dealer level tools to check the transmissions temperature,it's right there in your evicc,you're really grasping at straws now.
Read #5 what does it tell you after the "or"
My head hurts now from dealing with you,so you carry on with your gibberish,even though it doesn't make sense to a normal person
It doesn’t have to say I can’t…. the warranty says I must follow the manufacturer’s published maintenance schedule, plain and simple.

The owner’s manual lists every serviceable system and gives detailed procedures for each one. The 8-speed isn’t on that list, so by definition there’s no owner-level service procedure for it. That’s not me ‘assuming,’ that’s Mopar defining scope of maintenance.

You keep arguing what’s normal; I’m quoting what’s binding. The book defines compliance, not your gut feeling.

I’ll stick with the document that comes with a checkbook attached. You can keep guessing if it makes you feel better. But dang, if my thought process was like yours, my head would be hurting too.
 
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corneileous

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Like I said, I worked in this space for 3 years. You're wrong on at least 3 things you said here, but do what helps you sleep at night. I don't care enough to argue it further.
That’s fine; if you can point out which three things were wrong, I’ll gladly look at them. But until then, I’ll keep following the contract language that’s kept me covered so far.
 
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Well, I guess this discussion just went smooth off the rails. Thanks to those of you that contributed to it. This was only supposed to be about why a differential would shudder while turning.
 
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Well, for whatever it’s worth, I got both of my diff fluids changed. Being at the truck now has about 62,000 miles and I know the fluids have never been changed, the front diff fluid looked almost clean. Oh, and I did learn that taking the front cover off of the front differential is not an option because of how it’s designed, and it did have both a threaded fill and drain plug.

When I drained the rear differential, it still looked pretty clean and not what I expected it to and the magnet on the drain plug only had just a slide amount of dusting on it so I guess that’s a good sign.

So anyways I put a quart of red line 75W85 in the front diff and on the rear diff, it took two full quarts of the redline 75W90 and I added about 5 ounces of friction modifier so I’ll report back in a few days after driving it to see if my shudder goes away.
 

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Your not alone I to experience this, I’ve been on a witch hunt to find the cause as well, don’t know if its coming from the rear or front or …
 
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Your not alone I to experience this, I’ve been on a witch hunt to find the cause as well, don’t know if its coming from the rear or front or …
Well, I haven’t driven it much since I changed the oil but the little driving I did, I haven’t noticed that shuddering sensation anymore. Hopefully this was the fix.

But the sad thing is, I really ought to drain that brand new red line 75W90 out and refill it with 2 quarts of red line 75W140 because I just so happened to notice in my printed manual last night that came with the truck new said that’s what I was supposed to use and that obviously the online PDF version of my manual on the Mopar site while I was logged into my account, was wrong.

Oh well, hopefully that lighter full synthetic red line will make up for it compared to the probably cheap Mopar stuff they put in there at the factory.
 

Farmboy66

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Yeah, but isn’t that only under like severe conditions for frequent trailer towing and off-roading and such? I mean, I’d have to wait until I get home to see what it says in my book, but I don’t think it really has any kind of a maintenance interval that soon from what I remember. I’m not contesting what you’re saying, I’m just saying.
Mine got the shudder without heavy towing around the same mileage. Had the differential fluid changed at the dealership and while better it still had a studder.
I then added some limited slip additive as was suggested on this forum and was gone almost immediately.
 
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Mine got the shudder without heavy towing around the same mileage. Had the differential fluid changed at the dealership and while better it still had a studder.
I then added some limited slip additive as was suggested on this forum and was gone almost immediately.
So the dealership didn’t tell you that because you have a limited slip rear end, you needed that friction modifier? I guess in a way that’s understandable because that red line performance gear oil that I put in my rear differential supposedly has friction modifier added to it, I just don’t know how much and regardless of how much that it supposedly had, I went ahead and added the proper 5 ounces to it.

But it’s funny that after you added the friction modifier that your shudder went away after your gear oil change because that tells me that the previous oil you had in there, your friction modifier that was in there probably got worn out to the point where it wasn’t allowing the clutches in your rear diff to slip like they’re supposed to.
 

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First off, not sure if this is the right part of the forum to put this but anyways, on my 2018 ram 1500 that has the 392 rear end with limited slip, I’ve noticed now for a couple months that while making a right or left turn from a stopped position that I’ll feel a shudder from back there at the back of the truck kind of like I’m driving over a rumble strip but it only lasts for barely a second and it doesn’t always do this depending on how aggressively I go to take off.

If I’m sitting at a red light going straight or even stopping at a stop sign, but still going straight, it doesn’t do this. Any ideas what this might be? Oh, and by the way, the truck was bought brand new, the fluid has never been changed in either one of the differentials and the truck now has about 62,000 miles.

Don’t laugh, but when I asked ChatGPT about this and was very thorough explaining what was going on, it said that what most likely was going on was that it’s just time to change the fluids because I guess overtime when the fluid starts to wear out that the clutches in the limited slip will stick and won’t let whichever tire turn slower or faster than the other one being that it only does this while taking off from being stopped making a turn.

So does that sound about right? I don’t have the manual in front of me but last time I looked at it, I think it still says I have a ways to go before it’s time to change the fluid in there.
 

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So the dealership didn’t tell you that because you have a limited slip rear end, you needed that friction modifier? I guess in a way that’s understandable because that red line performance gear oil that I put in my rear differential supposedly has friction modifier added to it, I just don’t know how much and regardless of how much that it supposedly had, I went ahead and added the proper 5 ounces to it.

But it’s funny that after you added the friction modifier that your shudder went away after your gear oil change because that tells me that the previous oil you had in there, your friction modifier that was in there probably got worn out to the point where it wasn’t allowing the clutches in your rear diff to slip like they’re supposed to.
1762627266088.jpeg
 

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Well, I haven’t driven it much since I changed the oil but the little driving I did, I haven’t noticed that shuddering sensation anymore. Hopefully this was the fix.

But the sad thing is, I really ought to drain that brand new red line 75W90 out and refill it with 2 quarts of red line 75W140 because I just so happened to notice in my printed manual last night that came with the truck new said that’s what I was supposed to use and that obviously the online PDF version of my manual on the Mopar site while I was logged into my account, was wrong.

Oh well, hopefully that lighter full synthetic red line will make up for it compared to the probably cheap Mopar stuff they put in there at the factory.
If you'd listen once inawhile, way back in post #6 i told you you needed 75W-140,but o-no you know everything don't you.
You seem to think some of us don't know what we're talking about don't you,as you get all high and mighty and think you know everything :rolleyes:
 
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corneileous

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If you'd listen once inawhile, way back in post #6 i told you you needed 75W-140,but o-no you know everything don't you.
You seem to think some of us don't know what we're talking about don't you,as you get all high and mighty and think you know everything :rolleyes:
You’re assuming I blew off what you and others said; I didn’t. When I looked it up on Mopar’s own site while logged into my account, their online PDF manual specifically listed 75W-90. That’s why I went with it. I only found out after the oil change that the printed book in my glovebox contradicts that and calls for 75W-140. So yeah, technically you were right- for once- score yourself 5 bonus points but I wasn’t about to take random forum advice over what Mopar’s own database said. Turns out their info was wrong, not me ‘thinking I know everything’ so cut the BS. Besides- thought you were done? I’m assuming you bumped up your medication to fix that there headache you were whining about??
 

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You’re assuming I blew off what you and others said; I didn’t. When I looked it up on Mopar’s own site while logged into my account, their online PDF manual specifically listed 75W-90. That’s why I went with it. I only found out after the oil change that the printed book in my glovebox contradicts that and calls for 75W-140. So yeah, technically you were right- for once- score yourself 5 bonus points but I wasn’t about to take random forum advice over what Mopar’s own database said. Turns out their info was wrong, not me ‘thinking I know everything’ so cut the BS. Besides- thought you were done? I’m assuming you bumped up your medication to fix that there headache you were whining about??
Na now i just like making you look like the fool you are,which isn't really all that hard to do ;)
It's also fun watching you get your panties all wound up :Big Laugh:
 
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