Starting to look for a TT, a little (basic) help, please!

[aces-n-eights]

We are beginning the search for a travel trailer and have a few basic questions before i get too deep in this. This will be just for the wife and i, so we won't be loading the truck or trailer up with a ton of stuff.

First off the truck is a 2016 1500, crew cab, 5,7, 8 sp, 3.21. The truck has a trailer brake controller in the dash - does that mean it has a tow package? What all is included in that? Not sure what capacity hitch is on the truck - how do i figure that out?

I've looked at a few places and it looks like i can tow 8010 lbs with this setup. We're not looking to max out the tow capacity of the truck, probably looking at a 5-6,000 lb dry weight trailer. Doable, right?

The truck is stock and i plan to use a WDH, add airlift airbags to the rear springs and possibly new shocks. The truck has 53,000 miles so new shocks, i think, are a good idea.

Am i on the right track here? Any recommendations on shocks? Any other recommendations?

I've read a lot in this sub forum and i'm learning more every day. Thanks for all the input!

 

[Hd74ica]

Be aware that trailer tires have a speed rating and can Age out before wearing out. Mirrors, do they rotate out or can you raise them up? You probably have a class 4 hitch (frame mounted, not bumper pull) so I would think you'll be fine. You should also have a "female" 7 pin connector under a flap on the rear bumper. Remember your weight is dry and propane, fresh water, holding tanks will add weight quickly. Yes you'll need your weight distribution bars. Good luck and let the board know how it goes.

David
Lake Superior, Michigan U.P.

 

[RamInfo]

Input your VIN here and you should be able to get an equipment listing so you’ll know whether or not you have the tow package, etc:

FCA RAM

fcacommunity.force.com

best,
dg

 

[tron67j]

Good questions to ask. For payload capacity of your truck, look at door jamb. Note that your capacity already includes 150 pounds for a person and full fluids, you don't have to subtract that. So if your payload capacity is 2000 pounds and you weigh 150 pounds, it only matters what your passengers, cargo in bed, and hitch/weight distribution bars/sway-bars, and then trailer tongue weight all add up to. Your GVWR is on doorjamb sticker, the GCWR is either in a manual or available online. As a general statement for 1500s, you will most likely exceed your payload capacity before you exceed the GVWR, meaning your actual GCW will be below maximum allowed. My experience, never needed bags to keep level rig as long as weights loaded properly and under specs.

The 8,000 pounds is the maximum for the truck, but your limiting factor again is payload. 1540 is limit, and you have to subtract any non-factory add-ons like bed liner or cover, running boards as well as passengers and pets, gear you throw in bed, and again your hitch system from that total. The remainder is what your maximum tongue weight can be, which should be about 15% of your total trailer weight. But you need to weigh loaded trailer, often the loaded weight will be much more than you expect.

 

[OC455]

If it's just you and the boss lady, look at the Bullet Premier travel trailers. 19FBPR or the 23RBPR or 22RBPR. Each has a slide out and are light enough with nice amenities. The Bullet and Bullet Crossfires have some nice floor plans too, more basic.

 

[dhay13]

Add roughly 500-1000lbs to the advertised dry weight of the trailer to get a closer 'guesstimation'. My son's dry weight on his was listed as 6500lbs and he was actually 8100lbs but he did have it loaded pretty good. My step-son bought a brand new 2021 Grand Design Imagine 3250BH and it weighed 8900lbs. off the lot completely empty. Advertised dry weight was 8500lbs. Getting it weighed at a CAT scale will get you accurate numbers. Like was mentioned, payload will be your limiting factor. Depending on options you probably only have about 1300-1500lbs of payload. With a 6000lb TT you will probably be looking at about 800lbs of tongue weight, leaving you with 500-700lbs for everything else.

Now for practical experience...I towed my sons Grand Design Imagine 2670MK (6500lbs dry weight-probably 7000lbs actual when I towed it off the lot). My truck was a 2013 1500 5.7 with 3.55's. It towed it ok but did struggle on hills. My truck had an 8600lbs towing capacity. If you will be towing far distances or on hilly terrain then you may want to look for a smaller TT or a truck with 3.92 gears. I wouldn't say you are in 2500 territory yet but you are pushing the 1500 limits there, especially with 3.21's unless you will be on relatively flat ground

 

[Firetruck41]

You can look at the sticker on your door or put your vin in, on the Ram website to see your Payload. That will be your limiting factor. It's probably around 1200 lbs. Subtract yourself, your passengers and anything that wasn't in the truck from the factory and that's what you have left for tongue weight and hitch system. Your tongue weight must be at least 10% of your trailer weight, or your will have constant, dangerous sway. With a family of four, a cooler and some firewood, you could easily be down to 500 lbs of payload left for the hitch and tongue weight. Probably limiting you to about 4500lb trailer. Keep in mind that trailers are notoriously advertised as weighing less than they do in real life.

 

[aces-n-eights]

Thanks guys, really appreciate the info. I need to crunch more numbers to narrow down what campers we can consider. I'll be sure to take a look at the Bullet line of campers.

 

[mtofell]

Good questions to ask. For payload capacity of your truck, look at door jamb. Note that your capacity already includes 150 pounds for a person and full fluids, you don't have to subtract that. So if your payload capacity is 2000 pounds and you weigh 150 pounds, it only matters what your passengers, cargo in bed, and hitch/weight distribution bars/sway-bars, and then trailer tongue weight all add up to. Your GVWR is on doorjamb sticker, the GCWR is either in a manual or available online. As a general statement for 1500s, you will most likely exceed your payload capacity before you exceed the GVWR, meaning your actual GCW will be below maximum allowed. My experience, never needed bags to keep level rig as long as weights loaded properly and under specs.

The 8,000 pounds is the maximum for the truck, but your limiting factor again is payload. 1540 is limit, and you have to subtract any non-factory add-ons like bed liner or cover, running boards as well as passengers and pets, gear you throw in bed, and again your hitch system from that total. The remainder is what your maximum tongue weight can be, which should be about 15% of your total trailer weight. But you need to weigh loaded trailer, often the loaded weight will be much more than you expect.

First off... sorry, I tried to quote just the relevant part of this post but this new (better?) format doesn't allow me to highlight within a post and delete things. Anyway, payload ratings actually don't include a driver so every person, piece of firewood, dog and latte' come right off that door sticker number.

Here's a great article for OP that explains things pretty well:

So What Exactly Is Payload Capacity?

Why yes, that second BBQ lunch plate does affect your payload!

www.thedrive.com

 

[GsRAM]

Short answer; with your truck I'd be looking at traiiers 7000 GVWR (not dry weight) and under and 30' overall length (ball to bumper) and under. Something around 25' would be good.

Is this your first TT? Many people make the mistake of going too big with their first camper and then have issues. Dont listen to RV salesmen who will tell you your truck can pull anything on their lot. Good job asking these questions before you make a costly mistake. Good luck.

 

[GsRAM]

First off... sorry, I tried to quote just the relevant part of this post but this new (better?) format doesn't allow me to highlight within a post and delete things. Anyway, payload ratings actually don't include a driver so every person, piece of firewood, dog and latte' come right off that door sticker number.

Here's a great article for OP that explains things pretty well:

So What Exactly Is Payload Capacity?

Why yes, that second BBQ lunch plate does affect your payload!

www.thedrive.com

Agreed, I'm not a fan of this updated website.

 

[crash68]

I tried to quote just the relevant part of this post but this new (better?) format doesn't allow me to highlight within a post and delete things.

yes you can edit the text if you're quoting someone else's post, as you see I did to your post.

 

[aces-n-eights]

Is this your first TT? Many people make the mistake of going too big with their first camper and then have issues. Dont listen to RV salesmen who will tell you your truck can pull anything on their lot. Good job asking these questions before you make a costly mistake. Good luck.

Yes, first TT. We've had other campers - Class A, slide-in truck camper - but this will be our first TT. I've pulled a lot of trailers so pulling one doesn't bother me.

A web site told me my payload is 1520 lbs. Obviously this is a generic number... I think i will go over to a local truck stop and scale my truck for an actual weight.

But for the sake of discussion, let's say the 1520 is accurate. If i have a trailer that weighs 5500 lbs loaded. I want 10% tongue weight (550 lbs) and that comes off payload. So i'm down to 970 lbs i can put in the truck, right? What else comes off payload? Occupants? Fuel? All the other stuff i put in the truck.

I may scale my truck with a full gas tank, that will at least eliminate that variable to the payload calculations.

 

[aces-n-eights]

Scaled the truck today - 5,720. The door sticker says my truck's GVWR is 6,900. So payload is 6,900-5,720 = 1,180.

Do i have this right?

 

[dhay13]

Yep. 1500's have pretty low payload. Basically with your trailer connected and your 4 truck tires cannot weigh more than 6900lbs. So yes, gasoline, heavier bumpers, running boards, cup of coffee, etc, all count. With a 5500lb TT you will probably be closer to 650-700lbs tongue weight. Nobody is saying your truck will fall apart if you are at 6901lbs but just saying to stay within your trucks registered limits and avoid any potential legal issues you should stay under 6900lbs

 

[mtofell]

yes you can edit the text if you're quoting someone else's post, as you see I did to your post.

How do you do it? I can't seem to highlight text anymore.

Edit - I think I just figure it out - Highlight the text and the "quote" box appears. I used to just quote the whole post then highlight and remove what I didn't want.

 

[GsRAM]

Yes, first TT. We've had other campers - Class A, slide-in truck camper - but this will be our first TT. I've pulled a lot of trailers so pulling one doesn't bother me.

A web site told me my payload is 1520 lbs. Obviously this is a generic number... I think i will go over to a local truck stop and scale my truck for an actual weight.

But for the sake of discussion, let's say the 1520 is accurate. If i have a trailer that weighs 5500 lbs loaded. I want 10% tongue weight (550 lbs) and that comes off payload. So i'm down to 970 lbs i can put in the truck, right? What else comes off payload? Occupants? Fuel? All the other stuff i put in the truck.

I may scale my truck with a full gas tank, that will at least eliminate that variable to the payload calculations.

Yes, that is accurate, but typically loaded tongue weights are heavier than what folks project, so keep that in mind. Stuff adds up quick once you start stocking and loading a TT, believe me.

Your payload includes the weight of all occupants, items in the cab, items in the truck bed and the weight of the wdh itself. I can't say for sure if the driver's weight is included or not. I've heard it both ways, but 150 lbs is what they typically use for driver's weight.

 

[GsRAM]

Scaled the truck today - 5,720. The door sticker says my truck's GVWR is 6,900. So payload is 6,900-5,720 = 1,180.

Do i have this right?

Yes, that's accurate, but here's what I suggest. What you ultimately choose to do is up to you. I will not suggest you disregard your payload rating. I have in the past, but again I am not suggesting you do, it's a personal decision.

However, with that said, the number you absolutely do not want to exceed is GRAWR (gross rear axle weight rating). You can find that on the drivers door jamb sticker.

You'd have to CAT scale the truck, fully loaded, ready to camp with the camper fully loaded, ready to camp and the wdh properly adjusted and engaged to see what your actual, loaded, ready to camp rear axle weight is.

In my opinion, again, not condoning this, I personally don't get hung up on payload rating, but I do not exceed GRAWR. (Or gross front awr for that matter) If you do, you can hurt the rear axle and eventually it will fail, hopefully not catastrophically at highway speeds.

I hope this helps.

 

[dhay13]

Yes. I advocate for staying under payload for legal purposes but for mechanical and safety purposes the GRAWR needs to be followed. You are probably at 4100lbs. That seems to be pretty common on 1500 level trucks. Exceeding the GRAWR can lead to premature bearing or axle failure. My step-son towed his 9300lb TT with his 2020 Tundra 9800lb tow capacity) and had 4260lbs on his rear axle with 1100lb tongue weight. His GRAWR is 4100lbs so he was over

 

[JayLeonard]

Here's my ticket when I was using a 2017 1500 as a tow vehicle. This was loaded for only 3 nights so there was not much in the truck or trailer. I was almost at the limit of my GCWR which as 13,800. 2 months later I bought a 2500.