Suggestion for recovery stuff...

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howdysmom

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I would like to keep some recovery straps, etc. , in my 2009 Ram 1500. What would be the basics that I need for, say, helping someone stuck in the snow. I do not want to "install" anything on my truck...just need to know how/where to attach a strap, both to my truck and to another vehicle, AND suggestions for what to buy. Thanks, folks.
 

Chewy

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Do you have a receiver hitch? You can get a "stinger" that slides and has a ring on it to pull things with.

I personally just have a long tow strap which is nice because it's somewhat elastic which reduces the jolt on both vehicles. Make sure it's fairly long. I'm guessing mine's 25 feet.

I've even used it to remove bushes in the yard... :)
 

jlb

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On the front: Tow Hooks, and try to use both when hooking to reduce the chance of your truck going sideways when you have it unevenly loaded.

On the back: Your receiver hitch. Often you can put the hook right through the hitch itself. If you can't, get a stinger with a ball (which you probably already have), or a D-Ring recovery stinger.

Equipment: D-Ring recovery stinger, or stinger with ball, Heavy duty tow strap, or chain. I would typically recommend a strap though because chains are awesomely strong but can go badly awry in the wrong hands. Always put a shock absorber over your chain when loading it heavily (a stout blanket, etc) to take the shock out of it if it breaks. Gently ease into the pull until the strap goes tight then apply more force as required. Try to avoid snapping the recovery equipment tight as the shock loading is bad for your rig, the stuck rig, and all the equipment.

If you don't have tow hooks on the front get some lol.
 

dogcar3

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I would disagree with the stinger with ball. That ball can become a nasty projectile if it breaks. D ring hitch is the way to go. They can be had for $30 in several places (Amazon, Quadratec, etc..).

Also there are two different types of straps: static and kinetic. Static straps are used when the strap is tight before pull is applied. Kinetic straps are where you get a bit of a run at the pull. Don't use static straps in a kinetic situation, bad things can happen. Do some Googling for more info and what types of straps are which.
 

jlb

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I would say if you break a ball you are probably doing something you really shouldn't be doing. Unless you are using some dinky little 1in special you will almost always break a strap long before you break the ball.

I don't think, at least for me it is worth it to carry the extra equipment when I already have a ball, and stinger in my truck. I think that intelligence is the most important part of any of this. Always pay attention to what you are doing, and try to, "think before you do" to avoid nasty consequences.

So, most importantly just make smart decisions about what you are doing.
 

dogcar3

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I would say if you break a ball you are probably doing something you really shouldn't be doing. Unless you are using some dinky little 1in special you will almost always break a strap long before you break the ball.

I don't think, at least for me it is worth it to carry the extra equipment when I already have a ball, and stinger in my truck. I think that intelligence is the most important part of any of this. Always pay attention to what you are doing, and try to, "think before you do" to avoid nasty consequences.

So, most importantly just make smart decisions about what you are doing.

You are right. Intelligence is key. The smart thing to do is to NOT use a tow ball for recovery. These guys can explain it better then I can: Essential Tow-Point Ideas for Proper Off-Road Recovery: Off-Road.com

Specifically the 'Bad Tow-Points: No Tow Balls' section.
 

jlb

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I think this article makes a good point of our debate in the sense that the OP is talking about common situations.

The article states, "because as often as not they’re in a convenient place when the 95 percent/soccer mom crowd needs to be secured to a flatbed, not when the 5 percent/off-roader folks need a yank off a rock."

Taken slightly out of context this makes a very obvious point that this article focuses on EXTREME uses, not your everyday pulling someone out of a ditch, or a snowbank.

Mild carbon steel has a shear stress of around 34,000 psi give or take. A Class IV ball has a 1.25in shank. This means it would take approximately 42,000 lbs to shear the ball, not counting torque/tensile strength, etc. In the case of extreme off roading you also have to worry about loading angle, and your strap/chain/etc slipping off a ball as it is not a closed loop like a D-Ring (advantage see D-Ring lol). In the case of your normal usage crap, a ball is fine, just be smart.
 
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bhbdvm

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[QUOTE

Take a practicality chill pill man.[/QUOTE]


It was all good until you threw in your little zinger.
 

dogcar3

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I think this article makes a good point of our debate in the sense that the OP is talking about common situations.

The article states, "because as often as not they’re in a convenient place when the 95 percent/soccer mom crowd needs to be secured to a flatbed, not when the 5 percent/off-roader folks need a yank off a rock."

Taken slightly out of context this makes a very obvious point that this article focuses on EXTREME uses, not your everyday pulling someone out of a ditch, or a snowbank.

Mild carbon steel has a shear stress of around 34,000 psi give or take. A Class IV ball has a 1.25in shank. This means it would take approximately 42,000 lbs to shear the ball, not counting torque/tensile strength, etc. In the case of extreme off roading you also have to worry about loading angle, and your strap/chain/etc slipping off a ball as it is not a closed loop like a D-Ring (advantage see D-Ring lol). In the case of your normal usage crap, a ball is fine, just be smart.

Take a practicality chill pill man.

My whole point is that this guy seems to just be getting into recovery and is asking for advice. To tell him the improper way to recover a vehicle could cause problems, and frankly not the right thing to do. Using the ball in most cases would probably work. But then again nothing will happen most times you pull the trigger in Russian Roulette. Only takes once tho.

Here is another good read that I would recommend for you and the OP: http://www.ramforum.com/f73/vehicle_recovery-139/

It once again stresses the fact that tow balls should not be used. It is also one of the better articles I have read on vehicle recovery.

Sorry if you started taking my comments personally, but it is general knowledge not to use a tow ball. It is worth the $30 piece of equipment and the small amount of space to perform a recovery safely and properly.
 

jlb

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I am not taking your comments personally. I have used a tow ball for recovery many times, and never had an issue, although I use mine for reasonable tasks, and within reasonable limits.

I just showed that it takes a lot of force to break a tow ball, but you are choosing to ignore that. For all practical uses (NOT EXTREME) your tow ball will be fine.
 

jlb

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Also, saying it is general knowledge to not use a tow ball is totally false. I have personally never heard anyone say it is general knowledge until just now lol, and tons of people I know do it all the time, like I said though, for general purposes, not EXTREME recovery.
 

4x4Hemi

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Fact is the guys asking what he SHOULD have. Not what works. I havent had my hitch receiver on so I attatched it to the bar that the hitch attatches to. Sure it worked... wouldnt do it again since its not ideal. Guys asking for basics... its a basic thing to get a d hook. I dont get why this is a big deal. Just get a strap and d hook...
 
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howdysmom

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Thank you, one and all.

Some good information...I appreciate all the input.

I will probably get a D-ring hitch for my receiver. Looks like that is the simplest and safest. The Smittybilt link was helpful.
 

jlb

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The D-Ring is definitely an excellent choice. I hope it treats you well.
 

dogcar3

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I am not taking your comments personally. I have used a tow ball for recovery many times, and never had an issue, although I use mine for reasonable tasks, and within reasonable limits.

I just showed that it takes a lot of force to break a tow ball, but you are choosing to ignore that. For all practical uses (NOT EXTREME) your tow ball will be fine.

Breaking strength vs working load.

If it works for you, then that is great. You are the one assuming the risk. But to tell others to do the same is irresponsible.

Fact is the guys asking what he SHOULD have. Not what works.

Summed it up nicely.

And just to lighten the mood...:banana-mario:
 

OilCityOperator

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A twenty foot sling and two 3 1/2 ton shackles what more could u ask for? lol
 

audio1der

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One point only one response sort-of addressed, is what if you don't have front tow hooks? (and don't plan to)
Where do you attach to?
 

jlb

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I don't think there are any particularly good spots to anchor to on these trucks without fabrication, or adding the stock hooks.

There is this 1.125" bar that runs along the front of the front axle... jk lol

I would say get hooks, or only do recovery in drive, not reverse. To be honest this is better for your tranny anyway, especially if you will be pulling hard.
 
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