Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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Rod Knock

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Now lets be fair.

Amsoil still makes really great oil. It just dosnt suit the needs for noisy HEMI’s.

But there are plenty of hemis running amsoil successfully.


Sent while firmly grasping my Redline lubed Ram emoji231.png

It's hard to write down everything that's in my mind when I talk about a subject. My posts are way too long anyway, and if they're too long, no one will bother with them. My thinking on AMSOIL motor oil is that these days it's no better or worse than what you can buy at Walmart, yet it still costs an arm and a leg. For AMSOIL money, anyone can do better and run Red Line, for example. Since neither has any formal approvals, one would not be any better or worse regarding the warranty. My conclusion is that why would I pay for a Mobil 1 or Castrol or Pennzoil clone and not be covered by warranty when I can get genuinely better with Red Line. I still use AMSOIL products in other parts of my truck, as you can see in my signature.

Correct, that's at the bottom of the crank, which strips most of the excess oil off the crank. But at higher rpm, there will be some slinging of oil off the top of the crankshaft to the cam. That's all I was saying.

@Hemi395 I learned a great deal from you. In fact, it was one of your posts that inspired me to go for the 180F thermostat, and I don't regret it. You were also on point about high heat causing cam and lifter failures. Guess what: high heat plus ILSAC oil plus poor lubrication equals disaster.

Now, let's be fair: neither of us knew, and probably neither did @Burla, how the lifters are lubricated. I learned a lot from @Burla and @Hemi395 and several other forum members. If nothing else, ReIgnited on YouTube talks about how lifter lubrication works in one of his engine rebuild videos. That's actually where I learned not to turn off MDS and that I need to do a proper MDS delete by replacing the lifters if I ever want to see the benefits of no MDS. The local engine builders added to what I learned from ReIgnited. I can safely conclude that we can put Uncle Tony out to pasture. He had his 15 minutes of Internet fame. Let's leave it at that. Bad information is of no use to us. @Burla you're right about Moly. I would dare to say that Moly and higher viscosity oil in the 12 CST range operating temperature are essential for the Hemi for several reasons. Cold piston slap is also helped by thicker oil, as are Q&A and manufacturing issues. What if lifter ticks are also related to improperly machine engine blocks? I think oil can never properly sit around a lifter, but it cakes on due to heat soaking. That's a ticking lifter. Then you dump Red Line, and it cleans the varnish, and the thicker oil stays there while also lubing everything with friction-modified oil. The friction modifiers in motor oils have several functions, including lowering the hydrodynamic friction, though I wouldn't necessarily attribute that to Moly. Either way, if you have an improperly built HEMI that sounds like a rattlebox, Red Line Oil helps. I'm going back now to people who replaced their cam and lifters and never got rid of the tick. That's because the engine block might be improperly machine. Maybe one or more of the lifter bores is a bit too big. Chrysler is not going to throw away a block like that. They're not crazy. They will sell it in a car or truck. So there are several components to this.

Were it not for this forum and the fine people here. I would have never learned as much as I did about HEMIs and these RAM trucks in general. So thank you, guys!

One of my theories. The polyol ester's affinity for metal surfaces may be key to residual lifter roller lubrication under oil-starving conditions.

Let's not forget that POE also cleans pretty well.
 

Travis8352

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It's hard to write down everything that's in my mind when I talk about a subject. My posts are way too long anyway, and if they're too long, no one will bother with them. My thinking on AMSOIL motor oil is that these days it's no better or worse than what you can buy at Walmart, yet it still costs an arm and a leg. For AMSOIL money, anyone can do better and run Red Line, for example. Since neither has any formal approvals, one would not be any better or worse regarding the warranty. My conclusion is that why would I pay for a Mobil 1 or Castrol or Pennzoil clone and not be covered by warranty when I can get genuinely better with Red Line. I still use AMSOIL products in other parts of my truck, as you can see in my signature.



@Hemi395 I learned a great deal from you. In fact, it was one of your posts that inspired me to go for the 180F thermostat, and I don't regret it. You were also on point about high heat causing cam and lifter failures. Guess what: high heat plus ILSAC oil plus poor lubrication equals disaster.

Now, let's be fair: neither of us knew, and probably neither did @Burla, how the lifters are lubricated. I learned a lot from @Burla and @Hemi395 and several other forum members. If nothing else, ReIgnited on YouTube talks about how lifter lubrication works in one of his engine rebuild videos. That's actually where I learned not to turn off MDS and that I need to do a proper MDS delete by replacing the lifters if I ever want to see the benefits of no MDS. The local engine builders added to what I learned from ReIgnited. I can safely conclude that we can put Uncle Tony out to pasture. He had his 15 minutes of Internet fame. Let's leave it at that. Bad information is of no use to us. @Burla you're right about Moly. I would dare to say that Moly and higher viscosity oil in the 12 CST range operating temperature are essential for the Hemi for several reasons. Cold piston slap is also helped by thicker oil, as are Q&A and manufacturing issues. What if lifter ticks are also related to improperly machine engine blocks? I think oil can never properly sit around a lifter, but it cakes on due to heat soaking. That's a ticking lifter. Then you dump Red Line, and it cleans the varnish, and the thicker oil stays there while also lubing everything with friction-modified oil. The friction modifiers in motor oils have several functions, including lowering the hydrodynamic friction, though I wouldn't necessarily attribute that to Moly. Either way, if you have an improperly built HEMI that sounds like a rattlebox, Red Line Oil helps. I'm going back now to people who replaced their cam and lifters and never got rid of the tick. That's because the engine block might be improperly machine. Maybe one or more of the lifter bores is a bit too big. Chrysler is not going to throw away a block like that. They're not crazy. They will sell it in a car or truck. So there are several components to this.

Were it not for this forum and the fine people here. I would have never learned as much as I did about HEMIs and these RAM trucks in general. So thank you, guys!



Let's not forget that POE also cleans pretty well.

good point i hadnt thought of a poorly machined block causing an engine to still tick after replacing lifters and cam. A friend of mine is currently going thru this with his 2015 ram hemi. Unfortunately when his tick started he dumped lucas in and 3 days later wiped out a cam lobe
 

Rod Knock

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good point i hadnt thought of a poorly machined block causing an engine to still tick after replacing lifters and cam. A friend of mine is currently going thru this with his 2015 ram hemi. Unfortunately when his tick started he dumped lucas in and 3 days later wiped out a cam lobe

Lucas destroys motors, it doesn't save them. Tell your friend to go straight to Red Line 5w-30 and a big filter after he's done. I'm itching to go to Red Line, it's just expensive. EliteRaceFab.com has $38 RL 5W-30, but it's out of stock :(
 

Burla

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I still don't know how the lifters "aren't" lubricated, I just know that they aren't lubricated adequately, lol. If they were lubricated, we wouldn't have hemi tick and we likely wouldn't have as many cam fails as we see. Something we never really discussed is why is the hemi such a high wear engine. I mean the wear numbers alone even absent hemi tick can be scary. Those old 351w had wear numbers like 5 times lower or even better then that. It would be nice to know these answers, but even if we did, chances are we couldnt fix it mechanically. If fca can't do it, it is likely I couldn't do it in my garage. Ram Forum just got lucky so many guys bought into doing some lubrication strategy, kinda backed into a fix for hemi tick imo. Still seams like ram forum members continue to have cam failures near weekly, so I honesty believe fca's design fails to lubricate the lifters. It would be nice if we knew the reason for the high wear numbers, if that wear is mainly coming from lifter bore, because if we knew that, which is a condition we see with most rams, then we would realize if the issue was/is relevant to every ram owner, and not just those who get a proverbial rash from the tick. Or not if that wear is coming from something else other then lifter bore.
 

Travis8352

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Lucas destroys motors, it doesn't save them. Tell your friend to go straight to Red Line 5w-30 and a big filter after he's done. I'm itching to go to Red Line, it's just expensive. EliteRaceFab.com has $38 RL 5W-30, but it's out of stock :(
I have and hes just blown it off and since hes a certified diesel mechanic he wont listen to anything. Oh well not my motor
 

HEMIMANN

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good point i hadnt thought of a poorly machined block causing an engine to still tick after replacing lifters and cam. A friend of mine is currently going thru this with his 2015 ram hemi. Unfortunately when his tick started he dumped lucas in and 3 days later wiped out a cam lobe


Heck, Ford did that in the 80's with the 2.3L Pinto motor. Well-documented. Cut back on machining oil passageways and fried engines.
 

Rod Knock

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I still don't know how the lifters "aren't" lubricated, I just know that they aren't lubricated adequately, lol. If they were lubricated, we wouldn't have hemi tick and we likely wouldn't have as many cam fails as we see. Something we never really discussed is why is the hemi such a high wear engine. I mean the wear numbers alone even absent hemi tick can be scary. Those old 351w had wear numbers like 5 times lower or even better then that. It would be nice to know these answers, but even if we did, chances are we couldnt fix it mechanically. If fca can't do it, it is likely I couldn't do it in my garage. Ram Forum just got lucky so many guys bought into doing some lubrication strategy, kinda backed into a fix for hemi tick imo. Still seams like ram forum members continue to have cam failures near weekly, so I honesty believe fca's design fails to lubricate the lifters. It would be nice if we knew the reason for the high wear numbers, if that wear is mainly coming from lifter bore, because if we knew that, which is a condition we see with most rams, then we would realize if the issue was/is relevant to every ram owner, and not just those who get a proverbial rash from the tick. Or not if that wear is coming from something else other then lifter bore.

IIRC Chrysler uses a 3rd party supplier for the HEMI blocks. I guess that the blocks that become Hellcats and crate engines have to pass tighter Q&A, the rest, well, scr3w them, lol.

Poorly machined lifter bores, poorly machined cam bores, improperly installed cam bushings, a motor that's outdated and forced to run hotter than it should to meet emissions and CAFE standards, the cheap build quality on many parts, you add all of that up and you get disaster. When my lifters go, I'll replace them with Johnson lifters, and I'll look for a nice cam to put in. If the motor has to come out, I'll take it to the machine shop that's 30 minutes from here and have the guy replace the cam bushings as well. Might as well do it right. Until that happens, I'll keep maintaining it.
 

Hemi395

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@Hemi395 I learned a great deal from you. In fact, it was one of your posts that inspired me to go for the 180F thermostat, and I don't regret it. You were also on point about high heat causing cam and lifter failures. Guess what: high heat plus ILSAC oil plus poor lubrication equals disaster.

Thanks, I've learned a lot from you as well!

Kinda funny that I was the one preaching the 180 tstat and have since gone back to the 203. However that may change however depending on how my truck does while towing. I also miss that 180 this time of year as well.
 

ramffml

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What is the factory tstat? My coolant temp will rise to about 108 C/226 F and then the fan kicks in and brings it back down to around 100 C/212 F. Is that what everybody else sees?

If I got a 180 tstat what is the coolant range then? Any problems running that in the winter (delivering heat inside)?
 

Rod Knock

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What is the factory tstat? My coolant temp will rise to about 108 C/226 F and then the fan kicks in and brings it back down to around 100 C/212 F. Is that what everybody else sees?

If I got a 180 tstat what is the coolant range then? Any problems running that in the winter (delivering heat inside)?

It used to be for me like that. The factory thermostat is 203F. Now with the 180F and grille shutter delete I rarely see temps above 190F in summer, 185F in winter. Winters are really harsh down here though :p
 

Hemi395

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What is the factory tstat? My coolant temp will rise to about 108 C/226 F and then the fan kicks in and brings it back down to around 100 C/212 F. Is that what everybody else sees?

If I got a 180 tstat what is the coolant range then? Any problems running that in the winter (delivering heat inside)?
Factory tstat is 203 and my truck without the grill shutters will hover around 200⁰ coolant temp and 210⁰ oil temp this time of year. That's unloaded cruising at highway speeds.

With the 180 tstat coolant would hover around 185⁰ when driving no matter what time of year. Oil temp on the other hand would be 200 or so in the summer and it would struggle to hit 190 in the winter after driving for over an hour. Sometimes it wouldn't get much higher than 170 if it was really cold. That's one of the reasons I went back to the 203 tstat, I'm hoping it will raise oil temps in the winter in addition to better working heat...
 

Burla

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Factory tstat is 203 and my truck without the grill shutters will hover around 200⁰ coolant temp and 210⁰ oil temp this time of year. That's unloaded cruising at highway speeds.

With the 180 tstat coolant would hover around 185⁰ when driving no matter what time of year. Oil temp on the other hand would be 200 or so in the summer and it would struggle to hit 190 in the winter after driving for over an hour. Sometimes it wouldn't get much higher than 170 if it was really cold. That's one of the reasons I went back to the 203 tstat, I'm hoping it will raise oil temps in the winter in addition to better working heat...

Not the most friendly graph, but you get the idea. 185f = 85c, follow graph from 100c to 85c, and you see how thick the oil was when you ran the 180, it is easily running like a 40 weight oil, maybe 50.

303d1501884683-vq-oil-analysis-and-info-viscosity2.jpg
 

Burla

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So question, how was your tick with the different t stats? notice anything?
 

Hemi395

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Not the most friendly graph, but you get the idea. 185f = 85c, follow graph from 100c to 85c, and you see how thick the oil was when you ran the 180, it is easily running like a 40 weight oil, maybe 50.

303d1501884683-vq-oil-analysis-and-info-viscosity2.jpg
Holy crap......

Yeah thats a bit thicker than I want especially in the winter....
 

Rod Knock

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Hey @phoenixgenesys did you notice any difference in fuel economy going to a 180?

It's always been a 15 MPG truck, before and after. After the change, the placebo effect was very strong, and I thought I was getting 19MPG~20MPG. Of course, I kept resetting the MPG meter and I was getting that kind of mileage on the highway, babying it.
 
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