It's hard to write down everything that's in my mind when I talk about a subject. My posts are way too long anyway, and if they're too long, no one will bother with them. My thinking on AMSOIL motor oil is that these days it's no better or worse than what you can buy at Walmart, yet it still costs an arm and a leg. For AMSOIL money, anyone can do better and run Red Line, for example. Since neither has any formal approvals, one would not be any better or worse regarding the warranty. My conclusion is that why would I pay for a Mobil 1 or Castrol or Pennzoil clone and not be covered by warranty when I can get genuinely better with Red Line. I still use AMSOIL products in other parts of my truck, as you can see in my signature.
Correct, that's at the bottom of the crank, which strips most of the excess oil off the crank. But at higher rpm, there will be some slinging of oil off the top of the crankshaft to the cam. That's all I was saying.
@Hemi395 I learned a great deal from you. In fact, it was one of your posts that inspired me to go for the 180F thermostat, and I don't regret it. You were also on point about high heat causing cam and lifter failures. Guess what: high heat plus ILSAC oil plus poor lubrication equals disaster.
Now, let's be fair: neither of us knew, and probably neither did @Burla, how the lifters are lubricated. I learned a lot from @Burla and @Hemi395 and several other forum members. If nothing else, ReIgnited on YouTube talks about how lifter lubrication works in one of his engine rebuild videos. That's actually where I learned not to turn off MDS and that I need to do a proper MDS delete by replacing the lifters if I ever want to see the benefits of no MDS. The local engine builders added to what I learned from ReIgnited. I can safely conclude that we can put Uncle Tony out to pasture. He had his 15 minutes of Internet fame. Let's leave it at that. Bad information is of no use to us. @Burla you're right about Moly. I would dare to say that Moly and higher viscosity oil in the 12 CST range operating temperature are essential for the Hemi for several reasons. Cold piston slap is also helped by thicker oil, as are Q&A and manufacturing issues. What if lifter ticks are also related to improperly machine engine blocks? I think oil can never properly sit around a lifter, but it cakes on due to heat soaking. That's a ticking lifter. Then you dump Red Line, and it cleans the varnish, and the thicker oil stays there while also lubing everything with friction-modified oil. The friction modifiers in motor oils have several functions, including lowering the hydrodynamic friction, though I wouldn't necessarily attribute that to Moly. Either way, if you have an improperly built HEMI that sounds like a rattlebox, Red Line Oil helps. I'm going back now to people who replaced their cam and lifters and never got rid of the tick. That's because the engine block might be improperly machine. Maybe one or more of the lifter bores is a bit too big. Chrysler is not going to throw away a block like that. They're not crazy. They will sell it in a car or truck. So there are several components to this.
Were it not for this forum and the fine people here. I would have never learned as much as I did about HEMIs and these RAM trucks in general. So thank you, guys!
One of my theories. The polyol ester's affinity for metal surfaces may be key to residual lifter roller lubrication under oil-starving conditions.
Let's not forget that POE also cleans pretty well.