Synthetic Oil

[Burla]

This was the first vid I searched for on chaser, looks like someone else drinks that redline as well. Thanks tj, good info to know.

Why Your Shop Needs a Thread Chaser Kit

What is a thread chaser, and when should you be using one? If you have been using a tap and die to clean damaged threads, then you are doing it wrong. Here i...

youtu.be

 

[Treburkulosis]

About to roll 160k and still running my combo of Castrol Edge and a Puralator Boss filter.

 

[U&A]

Hard to say these days, as so many "respected names" from the past have changed hands, and/or turned into Chinesium garbage. My sets are from the early 80's, when we were a True Value dealer, and their Master Mechanic sets were made by Vermont American. They have served me well. I don't buy from Hobo Freight.

If i want quality stuff like that (taps, drill bits, cutting tools, measuring instruments….) for a specific project i go to mcmaster carr or the like. They will tell you were it is made usual and they carry quality stuff most of the time.

Anything else I assume its all made in china garbage that i will get just a few uses out of Before it is dead.

I have an old file. My dad gave me. It’s probably 30 years old at least. Still pretty damn sharp..

I went out a couple years ago and scrounged the city for any quality files and they were all made in China garbage. Ended up having to buy some Chinese ones that had a warranty from Lowe’s and they definitely die a short life and just keep getting replaced.

It’s ridiculous what this country has done making it profitable to ship around the world instead of supporting industry in our own country.

 

[knightjp]

About to roll 160k and still running my combo of Castrol Edge and a Puralator Boss filter.

Interesting. What Castrol Edge are you using? What weight?

 

[Treburkulosis]

Interesting. What Castrol Edge are you using? What weight?

Always 5w20. I first ran Mobil 1 in it. It started ticking. I ran seafoam through it and then switched to Castrol Edge 5w20. It never returned. I annually run seafoam through the engine. Thats been my secret.

 

[knightjp]

Always 5w20. I first ran Mobil 1 in it. It started ticking. I ran seafoam through it and then switched to Castrol Edge 5w20. It never returned. I annually run seafoam through the engine. Thats been my secret.

I'm with you on the seafoam. I've read a couple of articles on other Dodge and Jeep forums where someone used seafoam to cure the Hemi tick. I think that is what has helped and saved your engine since 5w20 seems quite a thin oil to be running in TX. I'm assuming that your weather gets pretty hot in the Summer, similar to what we have here in Dubai. Not ideal conditions for running such thin oil in engines. Even Toyotas over here run nothing thinner than 5w40 on their engines. However, if your strategy has worked for you, I say continue with it.
What weight of Mobil1 did you run for it to start ticking? I'm currently running Mobil1 0w40.
I was at the shop having the oil change done. The engine ticked a little bit on initial start up for about 5 seconds. It doesn't now. Sounds pretty smooth. Not sure what happened, but it had me worried.
I'm going to be changing the oil every 5000kms from here on so I am thinking of using Castrol Magnatec next. Might opt for 10W40.

 

[Treburkulosis]

I'm with you on the seafoam. I've read a couple of articles on other Dodge and Jeep forums where someone used seafoam to cure the Hemi tick. I think that is what has helped and saved your engine since 5w20 seems quite a thin oil to be running in TX. I'm assuming that your weather gets pretty hot in the Summer, similar to what we have here in Dubai. Not ideal conditions for running such thin oil in engines. Even Toyotas over here run nothing thinner than 5w40 on their engines. However, if your strategy has worked for you, I say continue with it.
What weight of Mobil1 did you run for it to start ticking? I'm currently running Mobil1 0w40.
I was at the shop having the oil change done. The engine ticked a little bit on initial start up for about 5 seconds. It doesn't now. Sounds pretty smooth. Not sure what happened, but it had me worried.
I'm going to be changing the oil every 5000kms from here on so I am thinking of using Castrol Magnatec next. Might opt for 10W40.

It gets hot here. 110+ in the summer times. I learned years ago when I built LS1 cars the true benefits of it. I run it through the gas tank once a month and I have never had one issue. I ran Mobil 1 5w20 This was in May so temps were pushing 90. Once I switched it to that, I have never had any issues with the ticking again. It ticked for a full month before I figured out that it was the hemi tick. Once I made it through a few oil changes and it was fine, I never dared change a good thing lol. I change my oil around 5k as well. Even after all of this time the oil still stays clear. I have been very impressed with it. Its what I run in my wifes Jeep as well. It is so quiet.

 

[knightjp]

@Treburkulosis That is pretty warm. We get around 113 - 122 in the Summer here. So you use seafoam in the gas tank. OK.. I assumed it was the stuff you add to the engine oil. That is what was mentioned on those forums. If you've never had an issue, I say you should stick with it.
I've never tried Edge. I have heard that it is the premium brand of the Castrol range. However the marketing and idea of Magnatec appeals to me, especially since my engine has MDS and I'm in traffic for quite a bit during my daily work week.

 

[Treburkulosis]

@Treburkulosis That is pretty warm. We get around 113 - 122 in the Summer here. So you use seafoam in the gas tank. OK.. I assumed it was the stuff you add to the engine oil. That is what was mentioned on those forums. If you've never had an issue, I say you should stick with it.
I've never tried Edge. I have heard that it is the premium brand of the Castrol range. However the marketing and idea of Magnatec appeals to me, especially since my engine has MDS and I'm in traffic for quite a bit during my daily work week.

I still have my MDS and never one issue. I have to do a lot of idling as well due to traffic. I am probably just the rare odd ball that it worked in mine lol. Yes seafoam the crank case, the upper intake via the master cylinder removal, and the gas tank. Its amazing stuff!

 

[knightjp]

@Treburkulosis Mopar 5w20 caused my engine to have the tick in my first truck. It is supposed to be the oil designed for the Hemi. The irony. Since then I never ran a 5w20. Avoid it like the plague if I can.
In your case, I'm guessing it is the seafoam that is helping you. Good work. Keep it up. This is the kind of info that we need. I'm guessing that if people want to use 5w20 in hot climates or need to do so for warranty, they should consider your strategy with seafoam.
Once you add seafoam to the engine oil, how long do you drive before you change the oil?

 

[U&A]

Seafoam it is literally just a mixture of petroleum distillates like acetone and mineral spirits. It is literally a mixture of like 99% solvents.

Great at cleaning the Throttle Body and intake thru the intake system.

In the fuel tank ….. IMO (and its just that, my opinion) dumping 12-16oz of solvents into a 30 gallon tank of another kind of petrol distillate (gasoline) will do almost nothing.

JMO

Did I say “JMO” yet?

And dumping it in the motor oil sump will simply thin the viscosity. Maybe do some cleaning tho…? To what extent 12-16 of solvent will clean when diluted by 7-8 quarts of motor oil..Im not sure…

Not trying to pick any fight or bust any chops. Just sharing in the share time circle.

Whos turn is it next to share ….?

 

[Burla]

Sea Foam is one of the best products around..... for the vac line.

If it worked to stop a tick, great, but the science wouldnt suggest that to be the norm. Little hurt in trying though.

 

[knightjp]

Sea Foam is one of the best products around..... for the vac line.

If it worked to stop a tick, great, but the science wouldnt suggest that to be the norm. Little hurt in trying though.

I read it on a couple of forums. I believe I did share a link somewhere on here to the thread on a Jeep forum where the guy used it to solve his Hemi tick. He put in it, drove for a few miles and then changed the oil.
It is a 50/50 chance though. Some people have reported success and some failures for others.
I guess for the moment, the only known guaranteed cure or preventative for the lifter tick is Redline 5w30. Can we call it a cure? We know it quietens the tick, but doesn't completely remove the cause for the tick, which is damaged or worn out lifters.

 

[slickracer]

Mobil 1 users- which variety are you running in your Hemis ? Thinking of going to 5W-30 EP.

 

[armallard]

mobil one here RP isn't available here.

 

[U&A]

If i

Mobil 1 users- which variety are you running in your Hemis ? Thinking of going to 5W-30 EP.

was going to use M1 off the shelf than EP would be a good choice IMO

 

[Travis8352]

Mobil 1 users- which variety are you running in your Hemis ? Thinking of going to 5W-30 EP.

I ran euro FS 0w40 for quite some miles 60k or so. I might try euro 5w30

 

[Treburkulosis]

@Treburkulosis Mopar 5w20 caused my engine to have the tick in my first truck. It is supposed to be the oil designed for the Hemi. The irony. Since then I never ran a 5w20. Avoid it like the plague if I can.
In your case, I'm guessing it is the seafoam that is helping you. Good work. Keep it up. This is the kind of info that we need. I'm guessing that if people want to use 5w20 in hot climates or need to do so for warranty, they should consider your strategy with seafoam.
Once you add seafoam to the engine oil, how long do you drive before you change the oil?

We all have our stories of what has worked. When mine happened the hemi tick was just starting to come to light. As I have said before in other threads. No one really knew what caused it or how to fix it. That is just my own survival story. As far as running the seafoam in the engine. 100 miles on the freeway @ 60 mph then immediately change your oil.

 

[Burla]

We all have our stories of what has worked. When mine happened the hemi tick was just starting to come to light. As I have said before in other threads. No one really knew what caused it or how to fix it. That is just my own survival story. As far as running the seafoam in the engine. 100 miles on the freeway @ 60 mph then immediately change your oil.

Whatever works should be considered imo. The good news about the way you killed your tick is that for sure it isnt a "mask" because things associated with that would be going thick instead of going thin. So whatever happened to your tick just by that action as long as the tick stays gone you fixed the issue. Like I was saying there is little risk to trying it, and perhaps some other benefits to doing so. Especially if you used it as a flush towards the end of an interval.

But also everything kyle was saying is 100% truth as well. So some ticks as in your tick can be killed by thinning and cleaning your oil with a solvent can kill some ticks. And for someone considering a more traditional approach would this not even be a good idea before even buying the redline or biotech? You can drive 50-100 miles as a flush, you can wait to see if this strategy works before even buying biotech or redline, if by chance all you needed was sea foam through the sump, boom you win. It still wouldnt be a bad idea once you have a tick to use ram forum developed strategies, even if sea foam solved it before even trying those, because those strategies include running known additives that help cams, in fact used to install all cams in the first place with the use of moly.

So even if sea foam works, then what becomes the question. And there is no such thing as sea foam not working, because you would have accomplished something by using it, at a minimum you used a gentle flush before you changed the oil, so benefit happens if hemi tick is gone or not. My definition of strategy is you put some thought into in based on science. So if you killed tick your strategy is whatever you say it is, and if it is castrol of whatever and it continues to keep hemi tick away, you win. Try some things, this is a legit choice, just another tool in the hemi tick tool box.

I should review my history because I had recently seen a vid where some guy made his hemi tick 80% "better" by adding lucas. Now, this is an example of masking, an example of something that can actually do more harm then good in the long run if it keeps you away from a solid strategy that actually fixes the situation. There are also more ways to test if a strategy worked or not then just hearing tick, you can also do uoa's, if you truly solved a hemi tick situation you will see wear numbers tumble from when you have hemi tick to when it's gone. So maybe the first thing someone with new tick should do, get a uoa, try some things, see what works to lower wear and keep the tick away.

 

[Treburkulosis]

Whatever works should be considered imo. The good news about the way you killed your tick is that for sure it isnt a "mask" because things associated with that would be going thick instead of going thin. So whatever happened to your tick just by that action as long as the tick stays gone you fixed the issue. Like I was saying there is little risk to trying it, and perhaps some other benefits to doing so. Especially if you used it as a flush towards the end of an interval.

But also everything kyle was saying is 100% truth as well. So some ticks as in your tick can be killed by thinning and cleaning your oil with a solvent can kill some ticks. And for someone considering a more traditional approach would this not even be a good idea before even buying the redline or biotech? You can drive 50-100 miles as a flush, you can wait to see if this strategy works before even buying biotech or redline, if by chance all you needed was sea foam through the sump, boom you win. It still wouldnt be a bad idea once you have a tick to use ram forum developed strategies, even if sea foam solved it before even trying those, because those strategies include running known additives that help cams, in fact used to install all cams in the first place with the use of moly.

So even if sea foam works, then what becomes the question. And there is no such thing as sea foam not working, because you would have accomplished something by using it, at a minimum you used a gentle flush before you changed the oil, so benefit happens if hemi tick is gone or not. My definition of strategy is you put some thought into in based on science. So if you killed tick your strategy is whatever you say it is, and if it is castrol of whatever and it continues to keep hemi tick away, you win. Try some things, this is a legit choice, just another tool in the hemi tick tool box.

I should review my history because I had recently seen a vid where some guy made his hemi tick 80% "better" by adding lucas. Now, this is an example of masking, an example of something that can actually do more harm then good in the long run if it keeps you away from a solid strategy that actually fixes the situation. There are also more ways to test if a strategy worked or not then just hearing tick, you can also do uoa's, if you truly solved a hemi tick situation you will see wear numbers tumble from when you have hemi tick to when it's gone. So maybe the first thing someone with new tick should do, get a uoa, try some things, see what works to lower wear and keep the tick away.

When I did my tune up around 20k ago, I added biotech to mine as you recommended. It did make it run smoother Mine was still newish 57k when it happened. I would suspect the previous owner just ran it through a oil station and called it good. I dont think mine was that slugged at that time. Even at 160k it idles smoothly. Oil pressure stays around 40 psi close to 55-60 driving. I am not easy on it either. When the motor does finally let go, I am going to 6.4 swap it and have some fun. I have been reading up on the swap. I have no doubt this motor has a lot of life left in it.