Synthetic Oil
- Thread starter mcclintock89
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How to test your brake fluid, use test strip for copper. I guess it wont take yall bout two seconds to see the problem, by the time the copper goes up you already have wear. Wouldn't the idea be to change it before you get wear? This isn't wear from moving parts, but acid build up that strips copper. Better then nothing for sure, but would this and one for iron be cool for engine oil?
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Amazon has coolant and brake strips. I want to see if someone has brake fluid and engine oil strips.
U&A
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Amazon has coolant and brake strips. I want to see if someone has brake fluid and engine oil strips.
AWSOME find mike!
Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
U&A
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It’s so darn easy with the “motive break bleeder” that I’m doing it every other year. That is like 20,000 miles max for me. So if I just can’t do it one year then that means I might stretch it to 30,000 which is “no big deal”as the cable guy says [emoji1787]. You can seriously just do this on a day you’re rotating your tires and it will not add much time to it at all.
Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
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It's been a while since I sung the praises for costco deal m1, still the best ongoing deal on oil gets even better. For you piston slappers, this 0w20 may be better anything this side of redline 0w20, for a whole bunch less. This doesn't have those desirable porsche and mercedes specs, that is m1 esp 0w20, but still this will give you awesome cold flow properties but still flow the same at operating temps for piston slap.
misuracaf10
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From what I remember and this may be off topic, but isn’t the amsoil EA the same exact filter as the RP?
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yes, clone filters the 2 of them
Not to be a Redline blasphemer or anything but I decided to try some of that QSUD 5W30 on a whim last week and figured I'd share my thoughts on it. I'm 300 miles into it so I suppose its possible that a good bit of that Redline Moly plating is still there but my experience with Redline going in was perfect silence immediately from the first mile. Just for the record I never had any serious HEMI tick issues with this truck from day one and I'm at 29K now, only a couple times did I notice it after a quick restart when I was running PYB/PUP 5W20. Obviously never heard it again after switching to Redline 5W30 but with the lifetime warranty I figured I would experiment a little. I went 9 months and 7500 miles on that OCI and it seemed like an eternity where I was anticipating actually looking forward to changing the oil. I figured I would run the QSUD for 5K/6 months and then do an analysis on it unless she gets noisy first and then I'd surely go back to Redline ASAP. If any of you have SERIOUS HEMI tick problems you might as well stay with the Redline as it has proven time and again to be the Alpha and Omega.
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Glad to hear it, whatever works. My regret, not trying a few more things when I had tick. I tried m0s2 and it didnt work for me and sounded horrible, and dumped it. Now, we know more about plating, maybe I should have been patient and/or tried other products.
PumpkinStealer
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You beat me to it, I was going to be doing this as well on Saturday but never got around to it so I might change oil Monday after work.
Give it a shot, you never know. I do know if I wasn't the original owner and the truck had some decent miles on it(and no warranty) I would have stayed with the Redline just for complete and total peace of mind. I'm looking at purchasing a 5.7 or 6.1 Challenger/Charger in the next few weeks and anything I end up buying will get Redline no questions asked for that extra peace of mind. Oh and by the way I used a Napa Platinum filter courtesy of that sale back in April I was talking about well in April. All Platinum filters were on sale for $5 so I bought 6 for the Explorer and 4 for the truck.
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I was scrolling through my pictures and found these screenshots. I dont remember Corey @Hemi395 did you share this and i just missed it? I have not been very active on this thread lately. Sorry if i missed the conversation.
Based on the information Corey found about why the hemi ‘s are eating cams..... top quality lubrication should be at the top of our lists as hemi owners.
We should be putting the best oil we can get our hands on in these hemi’s.
Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
Based on the information Corey found about why the hemi ‘s are eating cams..... top quality lubrication should be at the top of our lists as hemi owners.
We should be putting the best oil we can get our hands on in these hemi’s.
Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
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Ribtipram
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So what is being said here. Are all the oils we are using to good? To much slick.
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3 important things can be taken from this.
1) the steel used for the cams and lifters are hardness treated properly so the quality of the metal seems to be good.
2) lack of stiction between the lobe and roller was most likely the culprit.
3) The type of oil used had inefficient additives for the application.
We all know how Molly is very important to us to prevent friction but there is two additives that actually “control/regulate” friction but actually cause a “drag” type of friction between the parts.
Zinc and phosphorus. “ZDDP”
Both of which have been dramatically reduce in new Orioles but are prevalent in high-performance oil’s like Redline.
This additive alone can prevent the “stiction” as well as control/reduce wear.
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Not unlike an anode, zinc in engine oil sacrifices itself, the difference is that it comes back and reattaches. Anyhow remember the number one factor in film strength is viscosity. So 5w30 redline is "less" slippery then other 5w30's and all the 5w20s. There is more restriction to flow, which is why it remains between two moving metal pieces. It is pretty apparent the reason it works for so many of us is redline's formula is leaving protection behind after the engine is stopped, and it seams to not be pushed out as much as other oils while in use. I'd say the only possible issue would be if the formula was being broken down and causing issues in filtration from hot spots, clearly a non issue with this formula.
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I recall all cam/lifter failures with photos or info being related to the bearings in the rollers seizing to cause roller to skid over the cam nose.
How would this relate to slick surface between the roller & cam.
My theory is the oil pressure/cleanliness of the oil or the roller bearing design of the lifter.
Why do you think Mopar has changed its lifter p/n's
Notice the cam has the same p/n & other parts have the usual change of the last 2 letters but the lifters now have a completely different p/n
https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/par...?Filter=(E=EZH;T=DG1;M=ST+Crew+Cab+4WD)&PNC=1
How would this relate to slick surface between the roller & cam.
My theory is the oil pressure/cleanliness of the oil or the roller bearing design of the lifter.
Why do you think Mopar has changed its lifter p/n's
Notice the cam has the same p/n & other parts have the usual change of the last 2 letters but the lifters now have a completely different p/n
https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/par...?Filter=(E=EZH;T=DG1;M=ST+Crew+Cab+4WD)&PNC=1
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