Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 237 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 995 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,781

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Burla

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I believe its Redline 0w-20w as discussed on this Forum, thats what I'm running we will see

I think 0w20 is best shot whatever brand you use specificlly for cold piston slap, and for some reason many people think 0w20 is somehow weaker then 5w20, and that simply isn't true of you search the stay in grade specs. The opposite is true, 0w20 can be much more solid then 5w20. Those rules aren't the same with redline oil as 5w20 has pao base stocks anyhow, but in other oils that is where the manu's put the quality base oils.
 

U&A

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I honestly don't remember but I think I did and it was the same.

The only one I remember that helped somewhat was PYB 5w20 ironically...

Seriously Corey,

I don’t know why I still have a desire to try PYB. I absolutely have zero reason to do it as my truck is running amazingly on Redline.

Maybe its the “under dog” love. Maybe it’s because my grandpa has used only PYB his entire life...... so i have a bit of an attraction to it...?


Maybe.

All I can see is every single 4 stroke engine I own has Redline in it. Beside my wife’s ranger.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 

U&A

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Corey has never tried m0s2? Didn't that quiet your piston slap Kyle?

It stopped the 1-2 second long cold start clatter. But it only stopped it for probably a few thousand miles and it slowly came back.

Now that I’m mentioning it I have not had it once since I put in the new 5W40.

Strange.




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 

joshuaeb09

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Gears seem fine. Just like from day one, on deceleration i get a light whin. But iv read that it may be how they made the back cut on these gears.

Try stepping up to 75W110 if you haven't already. Made a noticeable difference on the Challengers factory gears. 75W85/75W90 sounded like I was in a damn race car all the time... now I only hear the gears under heavy engine braking or if I'm really listening for it.
 

Mohican69

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This is the first I have heard of Mobile 1 not being a top quality oil. I guess just for the peace of mind my next oil change is going to be RP. The problem I constantly have is finding a quality filter on the shelf at my local parts store. What do some of you use for this? I buy Mobile 1 or Fram when I can but I'm usually left getting whatever is there.
 

tidefan1967

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This is the first I have heard of Mobile 1 not being a top quality oil. I guess just for the peace of mind my next oil change is going to be RP. The problem I constantly have is finding a quality filter on the shelf at my local parts store. What do some of you use for this? I buy Mobile 1 or Fram when I can but I'm usually left getting whatever is there.
If you have to choose between M1 and RP you might as well stay with M1 as RP basically has no Moly in it which is what a noisy engine needs. Doesn't NAPA/Wix make a filter for the Pentastar? How about Fram Ultra?
 

joshuaeb09

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This is the first I have heard of Mobile 1 not being a top quality oil. I guess just for the peace of mind my next oil change is going to be RP. The problem I constantly have is finding a quality filter on the shelf at my local parts store. What do some of you use for this? I buy Mobile 1 or Fram when I can but I'm usually left getting whatever is there.

I wouldn't run the purple stuff period as it's overpriced for what it is IMO (Basically Purple dyed Calumet which is much cheaper). In the Pentastar I'd have no qualms about running M1, PP, PUP, Edge, etc as they do not have the same gremlins to deal with as the push rod Hemi's. Purple does make a filter for the Pentastar which I would probably use if trying to find one wasn't like looking for the lost city of Atlantis. IMO should be fine with a NAPA/Wix, Fram Ultra, or M1 filter depending on what you can easily source. If you want a filter on par with the Purple then the backup choice is usually Amsoil for a bit more money, but they are more easily source-able.

http://filters.royalpurple.com/single-part-result/?partnumber=40-1009&clientID=ROYAL876WEB
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...ms/oil/amsoil-ea-oil-filters/?code=EA15K19-EA
 

Burla

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gablett

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I live in michigan. Gets pretty cold here. Below zero f pretty often. I currently put redline 5w30 in it. Would it be wise to run like 0w30 in it in the winter months or is 5w30 fine as long as the truck likes it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

SyN

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Burla

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I live in michigan. Gets pretty cold here. Below zero f pretty often. I currently put redline 5w30 in it. Would it be wise to run like 0w30 in it in the winter months or is 5w30 fine as long as the truck likes it?

If it aint broke don't fix it, if you get piston slap maybe 0w20 redline.
 

Old Fart

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I live in michigan. Gets pretty cold here. Below zero f pretty often. I currently put redline 5w30 in it. Would it be wise to run like 0w30 in it in the winter months or is 5w30 fine as long as the truck likes it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I run 5W30 and much further north.
 

U&A

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Try stepping up to 75W110 if you haven't already. Made a noticeable difference on the Challengers factory gears. 75W85/75W90 sounded like I was in a damn race car all the time... now I only hear the gears under heavy engine braking or if I'm really listening for it.

Redline 75w140 is in their front and rear


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
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