Synthetic Oil

[Rod Knock]

That looks like Gokhan's chart from boob's. Word of caution - while useful for relativity, these values are extrapolations (calculated) from manufacturer-supplied "typical" formulation properties (who knows what the the actual tolerance band is?).

Thanks for posting - I haven't kept up with his latest additions. HTFS is the most important extrapolated viscosity as it is a representation of an oil's ability to lubricate high shear and temp engine components - typically cam/lifters and cylinder walls.

This said, it still doesn't account for areas where THERE ISN'T ANY OIL - like idling Hemi engine valve lifter rollers! That's what the trivalent (dissolvable) moly additive discussion is all about, along with polyol ester base stock (Red Line) that clings to metallic surfaces.

P.S. - look at how the HTFS drops for the 0W's......which is why I won't run 0W year round.

Yeah, I said that it was Gokhan's work. I learned a lot from his postings. What do you think about Lubegard Bio-Tech? Can it have any negative effects? I'm using it and everything is fine and the engines I use it in work great. It seems like the density of Lubegard Bio Tech is higher than that of any oil. I experimented with it a little bit. I poured 15oz of lubegard on top of a quart of 0W-40 in a glass measuring cup (large one) and the Lubegard made it's way to the bottom and stayed there. Now, once it's mixed it will stay mixed. One of the things that I wondering about is if Lubegard Bio-Tech will change the oil formulation and start competing for surface with the additives in the oil or if it changes the polarity of the oil. Any insight that you can provide is greatly appreciated.

 

[U&A]

Redline going in the Kubota tomorrow if i have time!!

Going straight 5w30 blue label with a Fram Ultra Synthetic

Kubota is very open to what oil you can use being there’s no emissions on this thing and Dave at redline said the 5w30 and 10w30 blue labels make a fantastic diesel oil so long as you have no emissions crap.




Sent while firmly grasping my Redline lubed Ram [emoji231]

 

[HEMIMANN]

Not sure speed limits are only 55 around here. Gotta drive a few hours to get the 65 limits

Negaunee is a speed trap!

 

[HEMIMANN]

Yeah, I said that it was Gokhan's work. I learned a lot from his postings. What do you think about Lubegard Bio-Tech? Can it have any negative effects? I'm using it and everything is fine and the engines I use it in work great. It seems like the density of Lubegard Bio Tech is higher than that of any oil. I experimented with it a little bit. I poured 15oz of lubegard on top of a quart of 0W-40 in a glass measuring cup (large one) and the Lubegard made it's way to the bottom and stayed there. Now, once it's mixed it will stay mixed. One of the things that I wondering about is if Lubegard Bio-Tech will change the oil formulation and start competing for surface with the additives in the oil or if it changes the polarity of the oil. Any insight that you can provide is greatly appreciated.

I do not know anything about Lubegard Bio-Tech. I have not taken time to learn, as I am satisfied with using Red Line 5W-30 summer and 0W-30 winter. I spent months analyzing specs and reading member experiences. I am a former Mobil Industrial Lubrication Engineer.

Red Line isn't for everybody - it's relatively expensive, and some folks just wanna go cheap. It's a free country to date - I have no financial skin in the game. I dislike Mobil today - that Exxon was allowed to repurchase them (they were part of the original Standard Oil Trust) was appalling, and what happened was what I feared would happen. Mobil invested heavily in new product development, Exxon did not. Exxon is just a wholesaler - they bought Mobil to strip 'em for profit, and they did. No coincidence Mobil changed PAO recipes at the same time as the takeover. It wasn't a merger.

If people want to risk their $9,500 Hemi engines, have at it.

 

[HEMIMANN]

thanks, do we know the author? man, you guys surprise me with this 1.

Burla - this is the spreadsheet I told you about, but I couldn't clean up all the junk to post it . Thanks to @phoenixgenesys .
The otherone is 540ratblog.

 

[Burla]

Yeah, I said that it was Gokhan's work. I learned a lot from his postings. What do you think about Lubegard Bio-Tech? Can it have any negative effects? I'm using it and everything is fine and the engines I use it in work great. It seems like the density of Lubegard Bio Tech is higher than that of any oil. I experimented with it a little bit. I poured 15oz of lubegard on top of a quart of 0W-40 in a glass measuring cup (large one) and the Lubegard made it's way to the bottom and stayed there. Now, once it's mixed it will stay mixed. One of the things that I wondering about is if Lubegard Bio-Tech will change the oil formulation and start competing for surface with the additives in the oil or if it changes the polarity of the oil. Any insight that you can provide is greatly appreciated.

Gokhan is a solid oil dude for sure, best of BITOG right there, but I am not convinced his theory is correct, or theories are correct as he has multiple. I'm not saying they aren't correct at all, but with differing base oils being what they are, and since there is no way to tell the %'s in any given formula (yes I know he has another theory on ester %) then I'm missing on how he comes to his conclusions. To be honest I didnt take it to the level of review it certainly is worthy of. I wonder if gas chromatography could help him verify his results? what u say?

 

[Travis8352]

Negaunee is a speed trap!

Yes i hate driving thru there. To many 55-45-55 changes im
Bound to get ticketed

 

[Rod Knock]

I do not know anything about Lubegard Bio-Tech. I have not taken time to learn, as I am satisfied with using Red Line 5W-30 summer and 0W-30 winter. I spent months analyzing specs and reading member experiences. I am a former Mobil Industrial Lubrication Engineer.

Red Line isn't for everybody - it's relatively expensive, and some folks just wanna go cheap. It's a free country to date - I have no financial skin in the game. I dislike Mobil today - that Exxon was allowed to repurchase them (they were part of the original Standard Oil Trust) was appalling, and what happened was what I feared would happen. Mobil invested heavily in new product development, Exxon did not. Exxon is just a wholesaler - they bought Mobil to strip 'em for profit, and they did. No coincidence Mobil changed PAO recipes at the same time as the takeover. It wasn't a merger.

If people want to risk their $9,500 Hemi engines, have at it.

Thank you for this. I myself have mixed feelings about Mobil products. Some seem okay, others, not so much. I look at Mobil products as a mixed bag. How expensive is PAO to produce? I am asking because some Mobil 1 oils like M1 EP 0W-20 and M1 0W-30 Racing Oil have a lot of it, while others don't have almost any.

I got your take on PUP and I believe you that it's a superior product. So I must ask about this other product: what do you think about Castrol?

I'm not asking strictly for the HEMI, because I'm just about to overcome my cheapness and spring for Red Line 5W-30. Here in NC I can run it all year.

Thank you, I appreciate your feedback.

Gokhan is a solid oil dude for sure, best of BITOG right there, but I am not convinced his theory is correct, or theories are correct as he has multiple. I'm not saying they aren't correct at all, but with differing base oils being what they are, and since there is no way to tell the %'s in any given formula (yes I know he has another theory on ester %) then I'm missing on how he comes to his conclusions. To be honest I didnt take it to the level of review it certainly is worthy of. I wonder if gas chromatography could help him verify his results? what u say?

I'd say that I take what I can take. I always take everything with a grain of salt, or an entire salt shaker, however, so far this is the best info I got my hands on to at least make some comparisons between different oils. Mobil is probably one of the worse offenders, if not the worse when it comes to obfuscating specifications. I don't know why they feel the need to do it. Most people aren't oil geeks. Actually, most people, including me to a certain degree, follow the manufacturer's specifications and recommendations to a tee. That being said, I share here everything I know and find out.

 

[Smokey613]

I do not know anything about Lubegard Bio-Tech. I have not taken time to learn, as I am satisfied with using Red Line 5W-30 summer and 0W-30 winter. I spent months analyzing specs and reading member experiences. I am a former Mobil Industrial Lubrication Engineer.

Red Line isn't for everybody - it's relatively expensive, and some folks just wanna go cheap. It's a free country to date - I have no financial skin in the game. I dislike Mobil today - that Exxon was allowed to repurchase them (they were part of the original Standard Oil Trust) was appalling, and what happened was what I feared would happen. Mobil invested heavily in new product development, Exxon did not. Exxon is just a wholesaler - they bought Mobil to strip 'em for profit, and they did. No coincidence Mobil changed PAO recipes at the same time as the takeover. It wasn't a merger.

If people want to risk their $9,500 Hemi engines, have at it.

I can no longer change my own oil due to various factors so I must rely on getting it done by a "shop". I also have a 7yr/100K Max Care warranty and do not care to give them any ammunition in the event of an engine failure. What oil, that is readily available "across the counter" would you recommend?

 

[tidefan1967]

I can no longer change my own oil due to various factors so I must rely on getting it done by a "shop". I also have a 7yr/100K Max Care warranty and do not care to give them any ammunition in the event of an engine failure. What oil, that is readily available "across the counter" would you recommend?

If you plan on following the "book" to the letter I would probably use Quaker State Ultimate durability 5W20 or the new Valvoline Extended Protection 5W20 and a Mopar factory oil filter. I have used the Quaker state (QSUD) 5W30 in my previous ram with good results and might just try the aforementioned Valvoline(5W30) in the first oil change on my new Ram next week. both have pretty good additive packages for a fairly expensive price. Personally I'm not a fan of anything Pennzoil so no recommendation on that from me. Some of the guys on here have suggested Castrol Edge too so you might want to give that a look. Since you want to go by the book I would check those out.

 

[Rod Knock]

If you plan on following the "book" to the letter I would probably use Quaker State Ultimate durability 5W20 or the new Valvoline Extended Protection 5W20 and a Mopar factory oil filter. I have used the Quaker state (QSUD) 5W30 in my previous ram with good results and might just try the aforementioned Valvoline(5W30) in the first oil change on my new Ram next week. both have pretty good additive packages for a fairly expensive price. Personally I'm not a fan of anything Pennzoil so no recommendation on that from me. Some of the guys on here have suggested Castrol Edge too so you might want to give that a look. Since you want to go by the book I would check those out.

QSUD no longer exists, check out their website.

After seeing PQIA latest tests, I can actually day that PP 5W-20 is as stout as they come. Not only that, but I wouldn't be surprised if Pennzoil these just bottles PP in PUP bottles and calls it a day. The PQIA test results for PP 5W-20 match the specs for PUP 5W-20.

 

[mb33458]

I have used Castrol oil on all of my cars since 1989, to include my Mustang 5.0 LX hatchback. Now, just about every car uses synthetic oil and I try to by Castrol when it's available, but that's not always possible. I just changed the oil in my wife's Mazda using Valvoline synthetic and it is very slick, much more so than standard oil. I think any brand name synthetic oil is fine, just make sure you change your oil at the proper intervals.

 

[tfeni52355]

I'd hate to see Chrysler making the HEMI a GDI engine, or GDI/MPI, or calling some turbo-charged four or 6 bangers a HEMI. They lack the expertise to do it. A 1500 electric truck? Thanks, but no, thanks. Really, I don't want it. In fact, I don't want any electric vehicle, period! I like oil and gas too much.

Actually I drove a Hemi/Electric hybrid in 2014. I work for an electric utility and we had some test vehicles from FCA. It had a battery pack under the rear seat and electric motors to start the truck from a standstill. They kicked out after the truck got rolling to about 20-30 MPH.

They drove like crap. My gasser 5.7 runs so much nicer.

Only saving Grace was that it had on-board inverters that could run power tools. But now the tools have their own batteries so it doesn’t matter much.

The concept never went anywhere. We returned the trucks after the contract was up.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Hemi395]

QSUD no longer exists, check out their website.

After seeing PQIA latest tests, I can actually day that PP 5W-20 is as stout as they come. Not only that, but I wouldn't be surprised if Pennzoil these just bottles PP in PUP bottles and calls it a day. The PQIA test results for PP 5W-20 match the specs for PUP 5W-20.

So now it's QSFS?

Doesn't quite have the same ring to it.....

 

[Rod Knock]

So now it's QSFS?

Doesn't quite have the same ring to it.....

Their marketing sucks. In some ways they're right, as their product lineups are incredibly confusing for the average person shoping at Walmart.

Pennzoil should abandon the Ultra Platinum branding and just call their top-tier oil Pennzoil Plutonium

 

[Burla]

QSUD no longer exists, check out their website.

After seeing PQIA latest tests, I can actually day that PP 5W-20 is as stout as they come. Not only that, but I wouldn't be surprised if Pennzoil these just bottles PP in PUP bottles and calls it a day. The PQIA test results for PP 5W-20 match the specs for PUP 5W-20.

That's hilarious, watching these long trusted oil brands and their internal marketing schemes with names is like watching a monkey try and F a football, very entertaining indeed. No more QSUD, funny.

 

[Burla]

I can no longer change my own oil due to various factors so I must rely on getting it done by a "shop". I also have a 7yr/100K Max Care warranty and do not care to give them any ammunition in the event of an engine failure. What oil, that is readily available "across the counter" would you recommend?

any oil with ms6395, Pennzoil platinum is what the dealer uses and wants you to use. But any oil that certs that spec will follow what you are trying to do. The srt synthetic filter will give you a measure of protection over the mopar paper filter.

I'm not sure I will be getting past no more qsud, they are in my dog house. They better do something spectacular.

 

[Burla]

Rotella Truck and Gas is or should I say was the qsud clone, so anyone wanting qsud just get some T&G. Unless they discoed that as well?

 

[U&A]

Ended up mixing 5w30 and 5w40 Redline. (Both CF certified)

Sump capacity is 4.2quarts with a filter.

1 quart 5w30
3.2 quarts 5w40

Making a 5w37.6 with a CST of 14.7

Good middle ground for colder weather if i dont get it changed before snow.

14.7 is really close to rototiller T6-5w40 but should be way more shear stable from the higher HTHS number.




Sent while firmly grasping my Redline lubed Ram [emoji231]

 

[Rod Knock]

That's hilarious, watching these long trusted oil brands and their internal marketing schemes with names is like watching a monkey try and F a football, very entertaining indeed. No more QSUD, funny.

I just read what I posted from my phone and I managed to mistype and eat a few words.

Rotella Truck and Gas is or should I say was the qsud clone, so anyone wanting qsud just get some T&G. Unless they discoed that as well?

Rotella Gas Truck is Quaker State... it's not even a clone, it's the same oil in a different container. The miracles of marketing...

any oil with ms6395, Pennzoil platinum is what the dealer uses and wants you to use. But any oil that certs that spec will follow what you are trying to do. The srt synthetic filter will give you a measure of protection over the mopar paper filter.

I'm not sure I will be getting past no more qsud, they are in my dog house. They better do something spectacular.

I wouldn't put Supertech or any non-premium 5W-20 in the HEMI. MS-6395 doesn't mean anything. They don't even test the approved oils in HEMIs, yes, it's that ridiculous.

Shortlist:

• Mobil 1 5W-20 (Vanilla or EP) - EP has more antioxidants for long drain intervals or if you drive your vehicle hard
• Castrol EDGE 5W-20 (Black Bottle or EP) - EP has more antioxidants for long drain intervals or if you drive your vehicle hard
• Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20. Don't bother with the Ultra Platinum, it's like the red-headed step-child that Pennzoil would like to get rid of because it's not profitable for them.

Quaker State is decent oil, but I wouldn't use it in a HEMI because it's not really Shell's best oil. Pennzoil is. It has a bunch of Moly, so they're trying to compensate for the lack of organic friction modifiers (in layman's terms that means crappier base oils).