Synthetic Oil

[BLUKTY2]

Certainly engines that have experienced significant ring and liner wear benefit from thicker oils. Thicker oil use results in compression increases, performance improvements and reduced oil consumption. Machinelube...

So since all engines lose compression during the aging process, wouldnt restoring compression with thick oil actually be the only fix absent new pistons? Isnt less oil consumption actually good for climate change? Hard not to laugh a little when I say those two words since clearly that is a red hearing and not the actual goal, lol. But should the ultra climate change people be vibrantly and vigorously suggesting to use thick oil in older engines to save the earth's climate?? They use science to suggest thin oils help the "climate" but then stop when thick oil is the science of better mileage and lesser pollution.

Just the FACTS.............................................................................................

There ya go, thinking again!!!! Perhaps an intervention is needed.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Their supercar 0w40 and 5w40 is top notch. The 0w40 does not shear from the UOAs ive seen

I'd go with HP Lubricant 0W-30 Super Car for winter and all year. It matches original formula Red Line 0W-30 specs. I put a spreadsheet together with all the published typical oil properties, so I know this for a fact.

0W-40 is signifcantly more viscous in cold temperature than 0W-30 according to the specs - I would avoid that, at least in the northern winter hemisphere. The really is no reason for a 40 weight super oil unless you're racing or towing max load in hot weather frequently.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Makes you wonder even if they believe thin oil gives them better "mileage" at what point does the opposite happen and due to thin oil and larger tolerance that are inevitable with aging engines does the use of a thin oil actually cost you "mileage". And talk about how much more pollution happens when those oils blow by those tolerances. Wouldn't the "science" dictate that every engine no matter what should move away from thin oils at some point? Even in increments move up to 2 grades heavier, maybe even three? Example, use that 20 weight for that first 100k miles if you must, then 30 weight for the next hundred, 40 weight for the next hundred, and maybe even 50 weight for the next hundred thousand miles? Not even considering the wear issue just mileage, would not science of engines and lubrication be that the premise of thin oils gaining mileage be a temporary thing that needs to be adjusted?

That one long time builder over @ Bob's tested to the conclusion that 30 wt was ideal tradeoff viscosity between wear and economy for daily drivers. Even Cummins has dropped down from 40 wt to 30 wt, but that's only for sure on their little "B" series engines. I haven't seen the big rigs or high horsepower engines dropping from 40 wt.

So, my put is go with 30 wt for most usage. Guys that tow max load up the mountains in the heat of summer a lot, those types go to 40 wt. When I say 30 wt, I mean mid to high range. Remember, these SAE motor oil viscosity grades are a RANGE of viscosities........9.7 to 12.2 cSt @ 100C for 30 wt. That is the SAE definition.

What's been going on with these new oil recipes for latest API spec SP is reducing viscosity in-grade. Unacceptable to me.

So - for most of us, it's 5W-30. For us arctic hermits in winter, it's 0W-30.

For guys like @Wild one , it's SAE 70 weight in his top fuel racing hemi.

 

[Travis8352]

I'd go with HP Lubricant 0W-30 Super Car for winter and all year. It matches original formula Red Line 0W-30 specs. I put a spreadsheet together with all the published typical oil properties, so I know this for a fact.

0W-40 is signifcantly more viscous in cold temperature than 0W-30 according to the specs - I would avoid that, at least in the northern winter hemisphere. The really is no reason for a 40 weight super oil unless you're racing or towing max load in hot weather frequently.

I will say that premium plus 5w30 is thicker in the cold than the supercar 0w30 so far

 

[ramffml]

I will say that premium plus 5w30 is thicker in the cold than the supercar 0w30 so far

The entire purpose of premium plus over the premium and basic PCMO line, is extreme cold winter starts, I wonder if you should have maybe grabbed the 0w-30 PP instead? I ran that last year, the UOA is somewhere in the blackstone thread.

 

[HEMIMANN]

PSA - the mean viscosity of SAE 30 weight motor oil is 10.95 cSt @ 100 degrees C.

Minimum: 9.7
Maximum: 12.2

These numbers visually give you an assessment of the thickness of you brand of motor oil.

Again, PUP's new API SP 5W-30 @ 10.2 ain't makin' it for my GDI turbo motor. It's essentially a thick 5W-20, where Mazda specifically calls for 5W-30 for their turbo motor & 5W-20 without turbo.

 

[Hemi395]

I knew this was coming from you, my bad, again, sigh

How about this, I think yaw'll should go to thinner oil as your engine ages or we will die in 12 years.

Dumping the 0w40 in my truck for some 0w8

 

[Travis8352]

The entire purpose of premium plus over the premium and basic PCMO line, is extreme cold winter starts, I wonder if you should have maybe grabbed the 0w-30 PP instead? I ran that last year, the UOA is somewhere in the blackstone thread.

Yes i know that. This oil was gifted to me! I was thinking it would be similar to supercar 0w30 when cold but cold start oil pressure is the same as mobil 1 FS 0w40 SP formula. We will see when temps really drop and the PAO really shines

 

[HEMIMANN]

Still......waiting for 0W-0

 

[Burla]

Still......waiting for 0W-0

lol it protects like a 40 weight though because afterall they say so. 12 years fellas, that's all we got.

 

[Burla]

No stats anywhere, but 19 per quart.

 

[knightjp]

No stats anywhere, but 19 per quart.

Maybe BITOG is waiting for someone with more money than brains to try it out.
Its too risky for me. I'd rather stick with what oil strategies that have worked, namely:
Redline 5w30
Mobil1 0w40
Liquimoly Molygen 5w30 with the LM Hydraulic Lifter Fluid.

I like how my engine sounds with these combos.. even on hot idle, its smooth and quiet. Which sounds the best, well thats subjective. I've recorded Mobil1 and Liquimoly. I have yet to do a recording for Redline.

 

[Travis8352]

Maybe BITOG is waiting for someone with more money than brains to try it out.
Its too risky for me. I'd rather stick with what oil strategies that have worked, namely:
Redline 5w30
Mobil1 0w40
Liquimoly Molygen 5w30 with the LM Hydraulic Lifter Fluid.

I like how my engine sounds with these combos.. even on hot idle, its smooth and quiet. Which sounds the best, well thats subjective. I've recorded Mobil1 and Liquimoly. I have yet to do a recording for Redline.

Theres one member there im thinking of lol

 

[ramffml]

Theres one member there im thinking of lol

Was he the doc running crazy thin oil experiments in his porsche a few months ago?

 

[tjfdesmo]

That one long time builder over @ Bob's tested to the conclusion that 30 wt was ideal tradeoff viscosity between wear and economy for daily drivers. Even Cummins has dropped down from 40 wt to 30 wt, but that's only for sure on their little "B" series engines. I haven't seen the big rigs or high horsepower engines dropping from 40 wt.

So, my put is go with 30 wt for most usage. Guys that tow max load up the mountains in the heat of summer a lot, those types go to 40 wt. When I say 30 wt, I mean mid to high range. Remember, these SAE motor oil viscosity grades are a RANGE of viscosities........9.7 to 12.2 cSt @ 100C for 30 wt. That is the SAE definition.

What's been going on with these new oil recipes for latest API spec SP is reducing viscosity in-grade. Unacceptable to me.

So - for most of us, it's 5W-30. For us arctic hermits in winter, it's 0W-30.

For guys like @Wild one , it's SAE 70 weight in his top fuel racing hemi.

Pretty sure even the Cummins X15, along with the Detroits, and Volvo/Mack are spec'ing 10W30, also.

On Edit: They likely don't forbid 15W40 like Ram/Cummins does on the CGI 6.7. I don't think all versions of the 6.7 have gone to hydraulic roller lifters either.

 

[crackerjack1957]

Anyone dealt with greentoe.com??????

 

[BLUKTY2]

Be glad you don't have to use the 0w16 like I have to use in my wife's 21 Highlander 2.4L GDI that at last UOA still has <5% gas in the oil with just 5356 miles on the oil and Toyota could care less...

I hear ya and you're correct; my situation could be worse!

In case you you are considering using a higher viscosity oil in your Highlander, I will share some information with you that I came across in my research. Others on this forum might also find this interesting and hopefully benefit from it.

Out of curiosity I searched for, and easily found, the Owners Manuals from the UK and Australia for my vehicle (23 RX350 w/the Toyota T24A-FTS engine). My choice for these two locations was simply random, and I wanted to know what the recommended oil specs were for the identical engine in different countries/locations. Using this information I compiled the following document. As this clearly shows, while 0W-20 is recommended in all of these OM's, the FACTORY APPROVED engine oils go beyond a 0w-20, especially in the Australian OM. Based on this information I currently plan on using a 0W-30 during the winter months and a 5W-30 for the summer. Or just go with a 5w-30 year round; I'm really not sure yet but since my engine only has around 3,200 miles on it I have plenty of time to make this decision.

My thought is that you would probably find similar results for your Highlander. If you are interested in pursuing this, a quick search would show you.

 

[HEMIMANN]

lol it protects like a 40 weight though because afterall they say so. 12 years fellas, that's all we got.

Damn! It's here at last!

Infinite gas mileage. No wear, either.

 

[06 Dodge]

I hear ya and you're correct; my situation could be worse!

In case you you are considering using a higher viscosity oil in your Highlander, I will share some information with you that I came across in my research. Others on this forum might also find this interesting and hopefully benefit from it.

Out of curiosity I searched for, and easily found, the Owners Manuals from the UK and Australia for my vehicle (23 RX350 w/the Toyota T24A-FTS engine). My choice for these two locations was simply random, and I wanted to know what the recommended oil specs were for the identical engine in different countries/locations. Using this information I compiled the following document. As this clearly shows, while 0W-20 is recommended in all of these OM's, the FACTORY APPROVED engine oils go beyond a 0w-20, especially in the Australian OM. Based on this information I currently plan on using a 0W-30 during the winter months and a 5W-30 for the summer. Or just go with a 5w-30 year round; I'm really not sure yet but since my engine only has around 3,200 miles on it I have plenty of time to make this decision.

My thought is that you would probably find similar results for your Highlander. If you are interested in pursuing this, a quick search would show you.

I asked about using 0w20 oil, I was told if I used it and their was any engine problems while I using the wrong oil weight it would be used against me, as in most likely void the engine warranty, this came from local Toyota Service manages mouth, he even said he had never heard of UOA's in his life and asked me where I learned about doing them ( told him the trucking industry) and how reliable the UOA report from Cummins were

 

[HEMIMANN]

@BLUKTY2 - nice work. Anything with a turbo on it demands close inspection of minimum viscosity needed for the much higher bearing loads and temperatures - making that small engine work harder than a naturally-aspirated larger engine.