Time for a new engine

[ScottS]

Hello all,

I've been lurking here for a few years and, with some of your expertise, hope my new engine project will help some of you as well. I have a 2012 Big Horn Crew cab, 4x4, 5.7L that I bought new and have had the "hemi tick" from day one. Only regular maintenance and a battery until now. It has been a great truck. It has 210K miles and, last week, lost a lifter and cam lobe on number three literally driving out of the parking lot of the tire shop with new tires, sensors, shocks ($1700). Ugh. But I refuse to have a new truck payment, so I'm all in on keeping this one "forever".

Thought I would keep a running update here on the project for future reference. I am going to pull the engine and have the machine shop tear it down, do all the machine work, and reassemble it. So far I have one of Greene's cams, all new MDS-less lifters, 180F t-stat, Moe's 87mm throttle body, S&B cold air, long tubes, catless y-pipe and Borla muffler. Still waiting on Diablo tuner and will run Greene's tune. Those are all the mods I plan on. No future boost or anything like that. This is a daily work truck.

I would like input on new pistons and rings. I don't like the skimpy skirts on the OEM pistons. Not sure forged are necessary but don't mind if the cost isn't too high. What do you guys run/recommend?

Any particular timing set?

What type and weight oil can/should I use for both initial break-in and after? Seems like I read where someone was having good success eliminating noise and keeping VVT happy with a mixture of weights.

Thanks in advance,
Scott

 

[Burla]

What oil were you running when the cam failed? or you usual brand.

 

[Hemi395]

Deleted

 

[Fast69Mopar]

So you had a Greene cam with non MDS lifters and it still failed? Were they hellcat lifters? This is the first I've heard of a non factory cam going bad....

I think what he is saying is the stock camshaft and lifters failed and he has one of Greene's cams and non-MDS lifters to go in the fresh short block.

 

[Hemi395]

I think what he is saying is the stock camshaft and lifters failed and he has one of Greene's cams and no -MDS lifters to go in the fresh short block.

Yessir you're right, I read it wrong[emoji106]

 

[ScottS]

Fast69- That is correct.
Burla - I've always used Penzoil non synthetic 5W20.

 

[seabrook]

Man when mine fails I’m call I’m moes and I’ll do a cam, prob shorties a tune and fix the motor and then I’ll keep it!!

I saw a 78 / 77 or so f150 today and it was lifted and a badazz cam sounded SICK that’s what I want!!!!

 

[FaceDeAce]

Why the 180 deg Tstat?

 

[U&A]

Break in i would drive as you normaly do and use PYB 5W30 for....

200miles
Drain and filter change

500-1000 more miles
Drain and filter change

3000 miles
Drain and filter change.

Cut open the filter EACH time looking for anything that stands out. Id collect an oil sample (not necessarily send them in, just set them aside) from EACH of those OCI’s to keep on hand for future reference if they are ever needed.

Then id promptly go to my personal preference for the 5.7 Hemi, Redline 5W30 and start a UOA wear trend history.

JMO

Since you are doing a new engine can i ask what you maintenance history is on you RFE trans? Your diff’s? Transfer case?

Just asking because your investing so much now that it may be good to consider some possible needed maintenance on the rest of the drivetrain.








Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[U&A]

Why the 180 deg Tstat?

If the T-stat opens sooner it can only do one thing. Cool things sooner. Depending on your location it may be a good idea.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[ScottS]

Why the 180 deg Tstat?

U&A is correct. Also, forcing the engine to run at higher temps is for emissions; specifically the cats to be more efficient. No cats means I can run lower coolant temps which benefits the engine and actually makes a couple more ponies at operating temp. I actually run a 160 t-stat in my 95 Impala 383 6-speed car. But it has 02 simulators and everything is done in the tune.

Break in i would drive as you normaly do and use PYB 5W30 for....

200miles
Drain and filter change

500-1000 more miles
Drain and filter change

3000 miles
Drain and filter change.

Cut open the filter EACH time looking for anything that stands out. Id collect an oil sample (not necessarily send them in, just set them aside) from EACH of those OCI’s to keep on hand for future reference if they are ever needed.

Then id promptly go to my personal preference for the 5.7 Hemi, Redline 5W30 and start a UOA wear trend history.

JMO

Since you are doing a new engine can i ask what you maintenance history is on you RFE trans? Your diff’s? Transfer case?

Just asking because your investing so much now that it may be good to consider some possible needed maintenance on the rest of the drivetrain.

Now that's how to collect useful data! I used to keep a log of everything on all of my stuff - including fuel and MPG between fillups. I've gotten a tad lazy in my old age.
I thought a lot about the rest of the drivetrain when deciding on a new engine because nothing lasts forever and the transmission will be the next most expensive repair that will definitely take place at some point. But I've read so much about these trannys that I'm comfortable with it for a while. Hope it lasts a good while longer as the engine is draining my wallet and a tranny failure would definitely sideline the truck for a while. I'll get scolded for this, but I haven't done anything to the tranny, diff, or transfer case. No fluid changes; they looked nice and clean when checked.... rarely. That might be a wise and more convenient thing to do at this point. Just have to consider the mileage and whether or not to just leave it be. But any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated; even the scolding.

 

[U&A]

U&A is correct. Also, forcing the engine to run at higher temps is for emissions; specifically the cats to be more efficient. No cats means I can run lower coolant temps which benefits the engine and actually makes a couple more ponies at operating temp. I actually run a 160 t-stat in my 95 Impala 383 6-speed car. But it has 02 simulators and everything is done in the tune.



Now that's how to collect useful data! I used to keep a log of everything on all of my stuff - including fuel and MPG between fillups. I've gotten a tad lazy in my old age.
I thought a lot about the rest of the drivetrain when deciding on a new engine because nothing lasts forever and the transmission will be the next most expensive repair that will definitely take place at some point. But I've read so much about these trannys that I'm comfortable with it for a while. Hope it lasts a good while longer as the engine is draining my wallet and a tranny failure would definitely sideline the truck for a while. I'll get scolded for this, but I haven't done anything to the tranny, diff, or transfer case. No fluid changes; they looked nice and clean when checked.... rarely. That might be a wise and more convenient thing to do at this point. Just have to consider the mileage and whether or not to just leave it be. But any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated; even the scolding.

Id obviously wait until the engine is in and you are confident in its good working order.

Then i would drop the trans pan, change the filters and fluid. I would NOT do ANY kind of flush. That is not necessary. And tou are to far into the life of the trans with no fluid changes.

Id run that fluid change for a month or so and so it again WITH another filter change.

Id be hesitant to do things much faster than that.

After that id stick to a reasonable fluid filter change. In your case i might even stay away from Redline C+. It may clean it TO MUCH for an old trans that has developed varnish. Id consider a good ATF+4 like castrol and fluid filter changes every 30,000 miles max.

JMO again.




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[ChevySlayer69]

Hello all,

I've been lurking here for a few years and, with some of your expertise, hope my new engine project will help some of you as well. I have a 2012 Big Horn Crew cab, 4x4, 5.7L that I bought new and have had the "hemi tick" from day one. Only regular maintenance and a battery until now. It has been a great truck. It has 210K miles and, last week, lost a lifter and cam lobe on number three literally driving out of the parking lot of the tire shop with new tires, sensors, shocks ($1700). Ugh. But I refuse to have a new truck payment, so I'm all in on keeping this one "forever".

Thought I would keep a running update here on the project for future reference. I am going to pull the engine and have the machine shop tear it down, do all the machine work, and reassemble it. So far I have one of Greene's cams, all new MDS-less lifters, 180F t-stat, Moe's 87mm throttle body, S&B cold air, long tubes, catless y-pipe and Borla muffler. Still waiting on Diablo tuner and will run Greene's tune. Those are all the mods I plan on. No future boost or anything like that. This is a daily work truck.

I would like input on new pistons and rings. I don't like the skimpy skirts on the OEM pistons. Not sure forged are necessary but don't mind if the cost isn't too high. What do you guys run/recommend?

Any particular timing set?

What type and weight oil can/should I use for both initial break-in and after? Seems like I read where someone was having good success eliminating noise and keeping VVT happy with a mixture of weights.

Thanks in advance,
Scott

Hi there are multiple potential sources of tick and I am wondering, what do you consider hemi tick? Just a noise a startup that goes away after a few seconds? Or did you have a tick with the engine at operating temp?

 

[ScottS]

Mine had the tick constantly but it was definitely quieter after warm up. I originally thought it was coming from the timing chain area. When I took it to the dealer, they gave me the old "that's normal for a hemi" garbage. It got worse about 10K miles ago and set some MDS related codes, so I changed the oil and added some cleaner (something medic I think; can't remember the name). Within a few hundred miles it was back to its old self and lasted until this.

 

[FaceDeAce]

Sorry to hear how it progressed to failure. However, imho you have a great plan to revive the beast and enjoy for many more years to come. [emoji106]

Regarding the transmission. I would go ahead and give it the full service. Oil and filter, including purging all of the old oil out. Done by disconnecting the cooler return line and running until it flows clear fresh red. Also, transmission is on place I personally am really fussy about fluid. Genuine Mopar ATF +4 only.

Differentials put whatever you want in them. Just do it. Synthetic. 75w90 front, 75w140 rear.

Wrt oil. My experience has been that the hemi is not fussy at all. But it does not like to keep tasting the same stuff for long. Just pick a good reputable oil brand and change it often. Avoid extended oil changes hyp. 3k miles, change. If you think that is too often, pick a more economical oil or shop the sales items isle, LoL. Also avoid mobil1. There are many far superior choices available. My Hemi is 15 yrs old, 140,000 miles and runs same as it did 135,000 ago. The only ticks it ever had have been; broken manifold bolts, or if I left OCI too long.

 

[ScottS]

Any recommendations on pistons and rings?

 

[ScottS]

Drove over to a friend's place who has a lift and got everything unbolted today. Engine is ready to come out as soon as I find my fuel line tool. I hated to break the AC lines loose since it's never been touched but it had to be done. Everything was pretty easy to get to and haven't had any frozen bolts. That may change when I pull the exhaust manifolds after it's on the stand though. The only problem I had was the fan shroud. I broke a chunk out of the bottom of it. It seems to be rather stiff and brittle.

 

[Ratket]

Drove over to a friend's place who has a lift and got everything unbolted today. Engine is ready to come out as soon as I find my fuel line tool. I hated to break the AC lines loose since it's never been touched but it had to be done. Everything was pretty easy to get to and haven't had any frozen bolts. That may change when I pull the exhaust manifolds after it's on the stand though. The only problem I had was the fan shroud. I broke a chunk out of the bottom of it. It seems to be rather stiff and brittle.

Well time to go Electric lol, Fans that is

 

[ScottS]

Well time to go Electric lol, Fans that is

Thanks! Just checked out a couple of vids and will add the V6 fan to my parts list.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Any recommendations on pistons and rings?

What is your budget for the complete overhaul?

Have you decided on a budget for the pistons?

Do you have any insight about what the cylinder walls look like?

The reason I ask is because not every piston manufacturer has all the sizes available. Some make pistons in the standard 3.917" bore size along with a .020" over and that's all they make. Once you find out what it will take to clean up the cylinders it will help aid in your decision for the pistons.

I always recommend a forged piston with any build I do. It's hard to beat the reliability of a forged set of pistons.

The Diamond Pistons #53035 is a solid set. I have used them several times. This is one of the more expensive sets. It is normally in the $830.00 price range.

The DSS FX Series K1-6506-3947 is one I have used multiple times as well with great results. The piston and ring set can be picked up for around
$700-750. Sometimes they can be found cheaper.

Have you decided to do any head work? A 5-angle valve job and come cleanup of the ports will go a long way when it comes to making more power. Like I said earlier, the 5.7 Eagle heads flow very well but even with some minor work they can flow even more.