Are you also rotating those tires (usual 4k-6k miles) Drive wheels move in a straight line, Non-drive cross. if you have a 4x4, on this site of course the primary drive is rear, so they would go straight forward, the fronts cross going to the rear. If ya also own a 4x4 where the front is the primary drive it would be the opposite ( Honda, Toyota Suv's etc.) This is info from Goodyear engineers ( I was with them for 25 years plus). Alignment specs. are for best all around tire performance which includes (handling, tire wear, ride comfort, etc.) not the best for any one thing. You drive different than anyone else (whom ever is reading this). that is why manufactures give a "suggested range" not a set it here or die spec. I'm so old that in the Syracuse area I set up a lot of drag cars in the 70's -80's. We had an old John Bean brand "Visualiner" it was called. It's design dated back into the late 40's. Many picture of one on the internet. used a mirror system (in a big movie projector looking unit) that reflected info to a cabinet on a grid pattern. A real well set up drag car would "stretch" the the suspension Front end up to load rear tires. If you did a good job setting it up it could be a hand full at the top end. We found out by plotting a graph of the front toe that it can severely change as the front rises. So on a drag race only vehicle we would heat and bend the arm that the outer tie rods went into so it would not. No one cared about tire wear so camber was any where between 0-1.5 positive, caster 1-4 positive, toe an 1/8 in to 1/8 out from rest to full lift. They were easier to handle, and quite a few dropped their ET by a tenth or so. Specs. are a great starting point, designed to work for the vast majority.
