Tow hitch quality

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crash68

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Here’s my hitch. It’s on the low end of class IV. There’s an aftermarket trailer brake. No clue if any of the wiring works.
CF055F1B-C763-43FD-93E2-741F1EBFB50A.jpeg
That receiver looks scary as hell, I wouldn't tow anything with it. It looks like the left side is cracking apart where all the rust is.
 
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Mittens

Mittens

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That receiver looks scary as hell, I wouldn't tow anything with it. It looks like the left side is cracking apart where all the rust is.
That’s a wiring harness box. Sitting in front of the receiver. Here’s another view. I haven’t got Under to inspect, but I definitely will before using.D3765D58-D0D2-4A81-9B5A-F21E0B07ED09.jpeg
 
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Mittens

Mittens

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I got a solid Bull Dog hitch at Tractor Supply. All the hitches there were significantly better feeling than anything at wallyworld or harbor freight. the hollow types were a bit heavier and the finishes all seemed better. I'd bet that everything with a brand name on it is about the same, but I just feel better with a solid shank.
 

Dan Topp

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I like my weighsafe it’s super adjustable and some day i might use the built in scale on it.but it’s a work of art anyway
 

Dean2

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Whether the shank is solid or not doesn't make any real difference. The weight is being carried by the receiver hitch itself. The joint where the ball is welded to the shank is the only area of weakness.

The weakest spot on any hitch is the pin that holds it in place. Whether you buy the hollow or solid shank, use a grade 6 bolt, washer, and nylock nut to hold it in place and you will dramatically reduce banging and play, and you will have a far stronger joint.
 

crash68

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The weakest spot on any hitch is the pin that holds it in place. Whether you buy the hollow or solid shank, use a grade 6 bolt, washer, and nylock nut to hold it in place and you will dramatically reduce banging and play, and you will have a far stronger joint.
I beg to differ, the weakest point is where the receiver is bolted to the truck itself followed by any of the welded joints on the receiver/drawbar. I've never heard of anyone shearing a 5/8" receiver pin even in the event of a rear end collision (receiver can/will separate from the truck frame).
Using a Grade "X" bolt doesn't make a difference strength wise but you can oblong the holes if the threads are inside the receiver and to stop the rattling mean you warping the receiver tube when tightening the nut.
 

dhay13

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My son was rear ended in his 2018 2500 with his insert in. The hitch was bent downwards with the tubes going to the frame being bent/twisted. The insert and pin were fine but he did replace them anyway. Different type of force but just an example that the pins are pretty tough
 

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