Towing Camping Trailer

[Lance1985]

I would want a 2500 as when you get all your stuff it will be pushing the limt

I pull a Lance travel trailer which is known as a lightweight trailer. It is 24 ft from tip of the tongue to rear bumper. I think what you have missing is the 3.91 axle option. The difference in torque and acceleration is noticeable between that and your 3.21.

 

[Farmer Fran]

Well OP, 11 pages. I hope you got a 3500 SW CTD.

 

[Baysider]

We have a Coleman 215BH 4400lbs dry weight 26’ length. 2014 RAM 1500 5.7L (6 speed). Stock rear. LT Load range E tires WDH and Echo Trailer brakes. We started with a Keystone Passport GT at 29’ 10” 5400lbs dry weight. I went on a Forum (not this one) and the gang ridiculed my 1500 so bad I was scared to go anywhere. We did eventually go camping with it on about a 400 mile round trip. When we got home we traded the Passport for the Coleman. 1000 pounds lighter and 4 feet shorter.

Last October we went on a 500 mile trip one way to see the leaves in North Carolina. After that trip we resolved to camp close to home on local traffic highways when possible. The sensation of being sucked in to an 18 wheeler passing you on the interstate gets old quick. Shifting manually is the best way with a 6 speed. In 4th at 55 mph we run at 2k rpm and truck is happy. In 5th at 55 mph we drop to 1500 rpms and it like it’s lugging.

Were we to do it again, it would be a 1 ton diesel truck at the git go so we had some room to go up on the trailer. Shame on the dealers who take advantage of the Newbs putting them in a bad way. 2 Years of hard experience has taught us to keep our own council when it comes to towing and trailers.

 

[Jane S]

We have a Coleman 215BH 4400lbs dry weight 26’ length. 2014 RAM 1500 5.7L (6 speed). Stock rear. LT Load range E tires WDH and Echo Trailer brakes. We started with a Keystone Passport GT at 29’ 10” 5400lbs dry weight. I went on a Forum (not this one) and the gang ridiculed my 1500 so bad I was scared to go anywhere. We did eventually go camping with it on about a 400 mile round trip. When we got home we traded the Passport for the Coleman. 1000 pounds lighter and 4 feet shorter.

Last October we went on a 500 mile trip one way to see the leaves in North Carolina. After that trip we resolved to camp close to home on local traffic highways when possible. The sensation of being sucked in to an 18 wheeler passing you on the interstate gets old quick. Shifting manually is the best way with a 6 speed. In 4th at 55 mph we run at 2k rpm and truck is happy. In 5th at 55 mph we drop to 1500 rpms and it like it’s lugging.

Were we to do it again, it would be a 1 ton diesel truck at the git go so we had some room to go up on the trailer. Shame on the dealers who take advantage of the Newbs putting them in a bad way. 2 Years of hard experience has taught us to keep our own council when it comes to towing and trailers.

Why didn't you use Tow/Haul mode instead of shifting?

What rear differential gear size do you have?

Trucks - Why don't you have an Anti Sway with your hitch?

 

[Riccochet]

Why don't you have an Anti Sway with your hitch?

What, exactly, are you referring to with this question? One of those friction bars you put between the trailer and hitch? If so, those things are garbage that come with cheap WDH's.

 

[Tulecreeper]

What, exactly, are you referring to with this question? One of those friction bars you put between the trailer and hitch? If so, those things are garbage that come with cheap WDH's.

A good WDH comes with anti-way, but they aren't all just a friction bar between the trailer and the hitch. However, anti-sway is not needed in every towing situation. The heavier, higher, and more wind-resistant your trailer is, the more you may need anti-sway along with your WDH. Anderson is an example of a WDH with anti-sway that has no bar.

 

[Jane S]

What, exactly, are you referring to with this question? One of those friction bars you put between the trailer and hitch? If so, those things are garbage that come with cheap WDH's.

So you don't know what a anti sway hitch is?

RV Sway Control Basics for Travel Trailers

The what, why, and how of reducing RV sway on your travel trailer.

togorv.com

How dare you put your family's safety at risk because you don't know how to tow safely!!!!!



How about my other questions?

Why didn't you use Tow/Haul mode instead of shifting?

What rear differential gear size do you have?

 

[tron67j]

We have a Coleman 215BH 4400lbs dry weight 26’ length. 2014 RAM 1500 5.7L (6 speed). Stock rear. LT Load range E tires WDH and Echo Trailer brakes. We started with a Keystone Passport GT at 29’ 10” 5400lbs dry weight. I went on a Forum (not this one) and the gang ridiculed my 1500 so bad I was scared to go anywhere. We did eventually go camping with it on about a 400 mile round trip. When we got home we traded the Passport for the Coleman. 1000 pounds lighter and 4 feet shorter.

Last October we went on a 500 mile trip one way to see the leaves in North Carolina. After that trip we resolved to camp close to home on local traffic highways when possible. The sensation of being sucked in to an 18 wheeler passing you on the interstate gets old quick. Shifting manually is the best way with a 6 speed. In 4th at 55 mph we run at 2k rpm and truck is happy. In 5th at 55 mph we drop to 1500 rpms and it like it’s lugging.

Were we to do it again, it would be a 1 ton diesel truck at the git go so we had some room to go up on the trailer. Shame on the dealers who take advantage of the Newbs putting them in a bad way. 2 Years of hard experience has taught us to keep our own council when it comes to towing and trailers.

You don't necessarily need a diesel truck. Unfortunately, you got information the hard way, like many of us do from time to time.

My last truck was a 2500 5.7 Hemi extended cab 8'bed 2wd. It pulled a 5th wheel, within weights and all specs, like a pro. Your truck may be perfect for your trailer but the weight distribution is wrong with too much behind the trailer axle, for example. A rig like that would be like dynamite waiting for a match (18 wheeler pushing a bunch of air pressure in front of it).

My recommendation is to know payload capacity, trailer max towing, weights of fully loaded rig at all 3 or 4 axles, and what the weight of gear and supplies is in front and behind trailer axle(s). And a good WDH with away control for travel trailering is worth it's weight in gold (but carry that separately ).

 

[Riccochet]

A good WDH comes with anti-way, but they aren't all just a friction bar between the trailer and the hitch. However, anti-sway is not needed in every towing situation. The heavier, higher, and more wind-resistant your trailer is, the more you may need anti-sway along with your WDH. Anderson is an example of a WDH with anti-sway that has no bar.
View attachment 522374

I know, I use an Andersen. Love it. Best dang WDH I've ever used. Light weight, quiet, easy to use.

Just saying, the ones with the friction bars are complete crap. Those bars don't work all that well to begin with, and if it's raining they work even less. I was just trolling the troll. I don't think WDH's are even made anymore without some sort of sway control.

 

[dhay13]

I have used a Husky TS Centerline WDH with the friction bars on an 8000lb 32' TT and also another brand that looked very similar to the Husky but can't remember what brand. Towed a 9300lb 37' TT with that one. Both were towed with a 2018 2500 6.4 with 4.10's and both worked great. Sway was never a problem. My son towed the 8000lb TT over 9000 miles with his 2500 all over the country and never had an issue. He had the Husky WDH.

BTW - I also towed his 8000lb TT with my 2013 1500 and that Husky WDH and it felt stable with that too. Not as stable as my 2500 but stable enough. Towed it 400 highway miles with the 1500.

 

[PacmanX]

I am new here...just bought a Ram 1500 and thought I'd join the forum but holy smokes...this is some of the most douche-baggery back and forth I have seen. Rivaling Twitter even. Why cant someone just say "imo, I think your truck is too small for that large of a trailer and if/when you can, maybe take a look at right sizing your trailer to your truck or your truck to the trailer however, since this is the setup you have...let me help by saying you definitely need a WDH, be sure you know your weights and load your trailer properly, take it to a scale as thats the only 100% way to know where you're at etc..."

But instead its "My Peen is huge!" and then "No...my Peen is bigger" and "No...my Peen has a curve so its better"

As a new Ram owner, I too have some questions I'd like to pose here on the forum and hope I dont have to wade through pages of similar nonsense to get a sliver of valuable insight.

We should all try to be better.

 

[Tulecreeper]

I am new here...just bought a Ram 1500 and thought I'd join the forum but holy smokes...this is some of the most douche-baggery back and forth I have seen. Rivaling Twitter even. Why cant someone just say "imo, I think your truck is too small for that large of a trailer and if/when you can, maybe take a look at right sizing your trailer to your truck or your truck to the trailer however, since this is the setup you have...let me help by saying you definitely need a WDH, be sure you know your weights and load your trailer properly, take it to a scale as thats the only 100% way to know where you're at etc..."

But instead its "My Peen is huge!" and then "No...my Peen is bigger" and "No...my Peen has a curve so its better"

As a new Ram owner, I too have some questions I'd like to pose here on the forum and hope I dont have to wade through pages of similar nonsense to get a sliver of valuable insight.

We should all try to be better.

There does seem to be a number of folks here who only post to argue with someone about every issue. IMO, of course.

 

[crash68]

I am new here...just bought a Ram 1500 and thought I'd join the forum but holy smokes...this is some of the most douche-baggery back and forth I have seen.

Sadly there are several on this forum that think their opinions and guestimates are the facts.

.let me help by saying you definitely need a WDH, be sure you know your weights and load your trailer properly, take it to a scale as thats the only 100% way to know where you're at etc..."

^^^ this exactly, not sure how many times I've posted a run down on how to use a CAT scale to set up a truck/trailer to tow properly. Starting with the '15 model year all Ram trucks towing/hauling numbers are based on SAE J2807 testing, numbers one can go right up to the line in the sand as there is already safety factor calculated in.

 

[Jane S]

I am new here...just bought a Ram 1500 and thought I'd join the forum but holy smokes...this is some of the most douche-baggery back and forth I have seen. Rivaling Twitter even. Why cant someone just say "imo, I think your truck is too small for that large of a trailer and if/when you can, maybe take a look at right sizing your trailer to your truck or your truck to the trailer however, since this is the setup you have...let me help by saying you definitely need a WDH, be sure you know your weights and load your trailer properly, take it to a scale as thats the only 100% way to know where you're at etc..."

But instead its "My Peen is huge!" and then "No...my Peen is bigger" and "No...my Peen has a curve so its better"

As a new Ram owner, I too have some questions I'd like to pose here on the forum and hope I dont have to wade through pages of similar nonsense to get a sliver of valuable insight.

We should all try to be better.

And your post is saying: "My Peen is the adult in the room."

 

[PacmanX]

And your post is saying: "My Peen is the adult in the room."

its detachable so i have to keep it somewhere.

 

[2020PW]

I am new here...just bought a Ram 1500 and thought I'd join the forum but holy smokes...this is some of the most douche-baggery back and forth I have seen. Rivaling Twitter even. Why cant someone just say "imo, I think your truck is too small for that large of a trailer and if/when you can, maybe take a look at right sizing your trailer to your truck or your truck to the trailer however, since this is the setup you have...let me help by saying you definitely need a WDH, be sure you know your weights and load your trailer properly, take it to a scale as thats the only 100% way to know where you're at etc..."

But instead its "My Peen is huge!" and then "No...my Peen is bigger" and "No...my Peen has a curve so its better"

As a new Ram owner, I too have some questions I'd like to pose here on the forum and hope I dont have to wade through pages of similar nonsense to get a sliver of valuable insight.

We should all try to be better.

You will find that there’s better forums, personally this forum is good for a laugh not technical information.

You will find some are on a power trip on this site…. “Better pay attention to the banner next to my name” LMAO

Try the Z

 

[runamuck]

I had a Husky centerline hitch with the bars when we had a bumper pull 6000# trailer. our 1500 5.7 3.92 rear end ccsb pulled it great. the husky hitch was pretty solid and the bars did shift some wt. to the front. had everything weighed at cat scale. bought a 5th wheel trailer so traded trucks for a 2500 laramie.

 

[tron67j]

Sadly there are several on this forum that think their opinions and guestimates are the facts.

^^^ this exactly, not sure how many times I've posted a run down on how to use a CAT scale to set up a truck/trailer to tow properly. Starting with the '15 model year all Ram trucks towing/hauling numbers are based on SAE J2807 testing, numbers one can go right up to the line in the sand as there is already safety factor calculated in.

Agree, knowing numbers will allow for much more accurate responses. Every question that starts "I have X truck and a Y foot trailer that has a dry weight of Z" can't be answered with any authority. Everyone would be better served to at least load up truck with all people, gear, fluids, hitch, etc. and go weigh the axles. Provide those two numbers and the payload capacity (PC) and GVWR from the door jamb and the exact maximum trailer weight can be calculated and then you have to go to the Ram site to see if your result is over the rated max trailer weight.

However, It doesn't matter what the maximum towing weight is, the odds are very high that anyone with a 1500 or 2500 will max out on the limitation of what the tongue weight can be before reaching the max tongue weight associated with the max towing weight.

Example for my truck that just happens to potentially allow me to use my max trailer rating; my truck has a 3k pound PC. I generally have about 1k of weight in the truck based on CAT scale measurement so my remaining PC is 2k. My max trailer towing capacity is about 13k, and if I assume the tongue weight is 15% that equals 1,950 pounds, which means that if I properly distribute the weight in the trailer I am just under my 2k pound remaining PC. Now that I have established that, here is how I reverse calculate how much trailer I can tow. 2k pounds payload capacity / 15% tongue weight average = 13,333 max weight of trailer (about 333 pounds over my rated max trailer weight). BUT! This just uses the assumption of 15% of tongue weight to trailer weight. I couldn't just go buy any 13k trailer, I need to know fully loaded tongue weight of a properly loaded trailer and, yes, this means you should be taking all your gear, supplies, food, drinks, etc. and putting it in your prospective trailer if back-of-napkin preliminary calculations appear to show the potential trailer might be wrong for truck. What I mean is I wouldn't be doing that pre-loading for a 7k pound trailer but I might if I was looking at a 11k trailer with some dealer accessories that don't ever show in dry weight ratings.

So, when being asked about towing a trailer, no one will authoritatively answer the question without actual numbers. You might get! should be able to, I never have a problem, etc. But take those with a grain of salt.

 

[calkid]

Number one rule is, sales people lie. The post above is very accurate. In a nut shell, check your load capacity (including the hitch its self) include people-dogs-camping chairs- etc, total loaded weight vs CGVW, and tire capacity on truck and trailer. If ALL of these numbers are good and you have a decent WDH adjusted properly, you're ready to give it a road test. The bottom line is, if it doesn't feel right maybe it isn't. Let your instincts be the judge.

 

[Tulecreeper]

I bought the truck I have for the very reason it has waayyy more cargo capacity and towing capacity than I will ever come close to needing. I know that I can throw 800#-1000# of stuff in the bed (that's a lot, by the way), then drop a fully loaded 30-foot, 10,000# GVWR TT on the back (there aren't many TT's that weigh more) and still have room to spare. I will, of course, hit a CAT scale but there is zero reason I would ever need to because I will never come remotely close to the capacity I have. Buy the tow vehicle first, then buy the RV that it will tow.