Transmission service question

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Wild one

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I've thought about doing those things, but the dealer said that maxcare has been cracking down on things.
I will be towing the boat in another month about 3-4k miles, I can't see a new pan looking old that quickly if something would fail - and you know it would hahaha.

It'll be a few years until the repair can exceed the cost of the truck as it's a 16.
The buyout should be the cost of the repair or value of the truck whichever is higher - which I'm ok with.
At that point then i take the truck and just fix it and do whatever I want to it.
There's ways of making new parts look old.One of my tricks was to spray parts with WD40 and before it dried,i'd take my shop vac and use the dust out of it,and blow it over the new parts,and that'd usually diguise the new parts
 

06 Dodge

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There's ways of making new parts look old.One of my tricks was to spray parts with WD40 and before it dried,i'd take my shop vac and use the dust out of it,and blow it over the new parts,and that'd usually diguise the new parts
Quick question when a dealer services the ZF 8 speed to they do some type of a quick relearn on them, reason I ask is I had my 68ref serviced yesterday, after driving it to day I asked them questions, they said they always do a quick relearn when they do trans service, I was surprised at how well shifts, I think it's better than it did the day I drove it off the dealers lot back in March of 2022...
 

RamDiver

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I've thought about doing those things, but the dealer said that maxcare has been cracking down on things.

I thought US buyers had protection from manufacturers threatening to void warranties over mods, and they had to prove the failure was directly related.

I've heard of those who fear having their warranty voided by leaving a SGW bypass adapter installed.
My second cousin heard from the janitor in a coffee shop whose uncle had his warranty voided. :cool:

This warranty void fear-mongering wasn't included from the sales manager I dealt with in January 2022, nor the dealership I use now.

I live in Canadastan and have had the Kaodtech harness installed since I bought it 2 years ago.
It's coiled up behind the dash but hangs out a bit.
The warranty is valid until next January.

I plan to install Jesse's thermal bypass bundle kit this fall, and also a fluid change.
I'll use the Unicorn fluid this time, but plan to switch that to Valvoline MaxLife next year.

As long as you're happy. :cool:

.
 

caulk04

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Actually it's been proven the ZF is happiest right around 160,temps under that screw up it's shift points in higher powered vehicles Jesse. It's actually pretty common knowledge now on the hi-po pages,that they can be over cooled. I was like you and thought you couldn't get them to cool,but after a few tests at the dragstrip i started to believe the hi-po shops like Satera / Sipple etc,who were saying you wanted the transmissions right in the 160 range for their best shifting and life expectancy,as the wifes 1320 always ran it's best numbers with the transmission between 160 and 165,under 160 it didn't shift quite right and was very inconsistent.
Ideally a Improved Racing high flow thermostat would probably be the way to go and delete the factory thermostat,as you can get them where they generally stabilize around 165F and hit full flow right around 180F


FSM-165165ºF (74ºC)160ºF (71ºC)181ºF (83ºC)Trans, Diff, PS Fluid
I'm not talking about the hipo guys, just regular old driving people. The trans doesn't care.

160 is a great trans temp, hell even 180 is fine. I'm allowing cooler temps, slower temp rise and safety against a failed thermostat that will overheat the trans. If anyone wants to also install an aftermarket thermostat block, go for it. It just adds cost and complexity so you have to weigh that in.
 

star_deceiver

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Question. Will the drain plug reseal and not leak if that is all that is removed?

Yes. I’ve done this with a stock pan. The drain plug is plastic, as is the pan. Follow the torque spec that’s stenciled into the pan by the drain plug to the letter and you’ll be fine.

Remember though that there’s 4 magnets in the pan. Swapping the pan is the way to go. Wd40 and vacuum cleaner dust will keep it looking old.
 

Wild one

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I'm not talking about the hipo guys, just regular old driving people. The trans doesn't care.

160 is a great trans temp, hell even 180 is fine. I'm allowing cooler temps, slower temp rise and safety against a failed thermostat that will overheat the trans. If anyone wants to also install an aftermarket thermostat block, go for it. It just adds cost and complexity so you have to weigh that in.
160 is pretty well ideal,but i do know when i deleted everything on my truck,it didn't shift worth a crap till it was at least 150,and once it was up to 160 it started shifting alot better,and that was just on light cruising,not even at the track,and when i actually did some track testing with the wifes 1320,it would hang up on the shifts with the tranny at 145/150 and it was anywhere from a tenth to 2 tenths off what it would run with the tranny at 160,and that's when i started thinking Sipple and Satera knew what they were talking about,lol.
After doing some testing at the track,i quit trying to get the transmission down to 150F like i had been doing on the 1320,with my fans,i still used them to cool the motor down,but after that i quit putting the car up on ramps and sticking a couple fans under the car blowing on the transmission between rounds
 

pacofortacos

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I thought US buyers had protection from manufacturers threatening to void warranties over mods, and they had to prove the failure was directly related.

I've heard of those who fear having their warranty voided by leaving a SGW bypass adapter installed.
My second cousin heard from the janitor in a coffee shop whose uncle had his warranty voided. :cool:

This warranty void fear-mongering wasn't included from the sales manager I dealt with in January 2022, nor the dealership I use now.

I live in Canadastan and have had the Kaodtech harness installed since I bought it 2 years ago.
It's coiled up behind the dash but hangs out a bit.
The warranty is valid until next January.

I plan to install Jesse's thermal bypass bundle kit this fall, and also a fluid change.
I'll use the Unicorn fluid this time, but plan to switch that to Valvoline MaxLife next year.

As long as you're happy. :cool:

.
If I changed the muffler, they couldn't void the transmission warranty. But if you touched the transmission and it failed then they can definitely void the transmission warranty but not the rearend or engine coverage.

The maxcare coverage isn't a warranty either, it's a service contract. But it's unlimited time/mileage and the only requirement is to follow the maintenance schedule in the owners manual.
It is basically an extension of the 3/36 initial warranty coverage but with a $100 deductible per visit.
 

RamDiver

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If I changed the muffler, they couldn't void the transmission warranty. But if you touched the transmission and it failed then they can definitely void the transmission warranty but not the rearend or engine coverage.

The maxcare coverage isn't a warranty either, it's a service contract. But it's unlimited time/mileage and the only requirement is to follow the maintenance schedule in the owners manual.
It is basically an extension of the 3/36 initial warranty coverage but with a $100 deductible per visit.

Have you and a lawyer friend reviewed the unabridged version of the MaxCare service agreement?

Just touching the tranny sounds a bit unlikely to cause the warranty to be voided.

The Service Manager at my preferred dealership played the lifetime fluid card when I asked how much for a drain and fill.

After I laughed and said, no, really, how much. He said he would do it, but it wouldn't be cheap.

Maybe, if you keep checking dealerships, you might find one willing to change the OE pan and fluid.

Maybe your installed plastic pan got bumped by road debris and was damaged, requiring the change. :rolleyes:

How could MaxCare argue that? :cool:

.
 

mdc1990zr1

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There's ways of making new parts look old.One of my tricks was to spray parts with WD40 and before it dried,i'd take my shop vac and use the dust out of it,and blow it over the new parts,and that'd usually diguise the new parts
I would take Wild One’s advice and change the fluid with OEM pan and fluid. No way would I continue the route of sure excessive wear and eventual death of the transmission by leaving the original fluid in there. And then keep up with the fluid changes in between pan and filter changes.
 

RamDiver

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I would take Wild One’s advice and change the fluid with OEM pan and fluid. No way would I continue the route of sure excessive wear and eventual death of the transmission by leaving the original fluid in there. And then keep up with the fluid changes in between pan and filter changes.

I would agree and prefer that route over the hassle and inconvenience of a warranty replaced tranny.

Economics is one aspect, inconvenience and knowingly causing damage to an integral part on my truck is another.

I couldn't do it. :cool:

YMMV

.
 

EdGs

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Plus, they have to prove what you did caused the problem.

I'd even take it to the courts if need be, and point out that the manufacturer of the transmission recommends servicing every so often. It could then be argued that Chrysler, going against the manufacturer's recommendation, caused unnecessary wear by NOT servicing the transmission in a timely manner.
 

mdc1990zr1

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I would agree and prefer that route over the hassle and inconvenience of a warranty replaced tranny.

Economics is one aspect, inconvenience and knowingly causing damage to an integral part on my truck is another.

I couldn't do it. :cool:

YMMV

.
If you feel that way about it, you could certainly just drain the fluid and leave the original pan in place. Carefully catch and measure the fluid coming out, and put that much in, then a little more and adjust the amount accordingly by the green sheet that has been posted on the forum. I think after that, you will feel confident enough to do the pan and filter sometime in the future. Break it up into little steps and have a friend to help you. It’s not as daunting as it seems when you’re doing it
 

RamDiver

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If you feel that way about it, you could certainly just drain the fluid and leave the original pan in place. Carefully catch and measure the fluid coming out, and put that much in, then a little more and adjust the amount accordingly by the green sheet that has been posted on the forum. I think after that, you will feel confident enough to do the pan and filter sometime in the future. Break it up into little steps and have a friend to help you. It’s not as daunting as it seems when you’re doing it

You don't have to sell me on the concept;
Thanks to this forum and the intelligent membership, I've been virtually planning it for years already.

My truck just turned 47K miles yesterday. At about 10K miles per year, technically, it won't be due for another couple of years. I'm tentatively planning for a fluid drain and fill, and the installation of the JC thermal bypass assembly this fall. And when finances permit, buying the PPE +2 pan.

The warranty expires next January. :cool:

.
 
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