Transmission Simple Drain and Fill?

[Lil Red Express]

My truck has 59,301 miles on it (just bought it in April). I plan to change the transmission fluid before winter. I drive about 8,000-10,000 miles per year and plan to keep the truck for about 5-6 years. So I'm thinking I won't have the truck past 120K miles at the most. (I usually upgrade around 100K-115K)

My question is would a simple drain and fill be sufficient? Meaning, drain the fluid cold. Measure it. add in the exact amount that was drained. that's it. No filter change. Do it again a few hundred miles later to get more fresh fluid in.

I understand that I do not know for sure if the level is correct now from the factory. But so what? If it's not correct now the only thing that changes from its current state is fresh fluid. the level should be the same, right? Please correct me if I'm wrong in that logic.

and for the filter, does it really need to be changed if I only plan on driving it to 120K miles max? The job is much easier without removing the pan.

 

[Slinge]

I read a member here compare a trans drain and fill ; to just changing your oil and not changing the oil filter.

 

[QwikKota]

It's better than nothing but good luck getting that drain plug loose with it above the exhaust crossover. It's a plastic internal hex. Mine stripped. You can try cutting down an allen wrench on the short end.

At least do the proper fill level procedure with the rear end jacked up and trans pan level.

 

[Slinge]

You can also buy stubby allen wrenches

 

[CanuckRam1313]

My truck has 59,301 miles on it (just bought it in April). I plan to change the transmission fluid before winter. I drive about 8,000-10,000 miles per year and plan to keep the truck for about 5-6 years. So I'm thinking I won't have the truck past 120K miles at the most. (I usually upgrade around 100K-115K)

My question is would a simple drain and fill be sufficient? Meaning, drain the fluid cold. Measure it. add in the exact amount that was drained. that's it. No filter change. Do it again a few hundred miles later to get more fresh fluid in.

I understand that I do not know for sure if the level is correct now from the factory. But so what? If it's not correct now the only thing that changes from its current state is fresh fluid. the level should be the same, right? Please correct me if I'm wrong in that logic.

and for the filter, does it really need to be changed if I only plan on driving it to 120K miles max? The job is much easier without removing the pan.

Regardless of doing the full job that includes the filter, do follow the transmission fluid replacement Green Sheet to a "T"!

It is a critical need for our 8-spds to have the correct fluid level

 

[stenerson]

My truck has 59,301 miles on it (just bought it in April). I plan to change the transmission fluid before winter. I drive about 8,000-10,000 miles per year and plan to keep the truck for about 5-6 years. So I'm thinking I won't have the truck past 120K miles at the most. (I usually upgrade around 100K-115K)

Personally I wouldn't touch it if I planned on trading in at 100-115K miles. The dealership won't take any points from you for not doing it since they insist it's not necessary.
But if you think you might change your mind and keep it long term now is a good time. I've heard the drain plugs on the OE pan is one time use and don't seal perfectly once detached. But others have done it.

 

[Lil Red Express]

It's better than nothing but good luck getting that drain plug loose with it above the exhaust crossover. It's a plastic internal hex. Mine stripped. You can try cutting down an allen wrench on the short end.

At least do the proper fill level procedure with the rear end jacked up and trans pan level.

Yes, I have 4 ramps that I use for fluid changes that require the vehicle to be level.

 

[White six four]

Transmission pan needs to be level on the 8 speeds. Not the truck.

 

[Wild one]

Yes, I have 4 ramps that I use for fluid changes that require the vehicle to be level.

The "transmission" needs to be level,not the truck.You need the rear tires roughly 9" in the air to level the transmission.Read the very first highlighted paragraph

 

[stenerson]

Yes, I have 4 ramps that I use for fluid changes that require the vehicle to be level.

The rear tires also need to be in the air to run through the gears in the fill procedure.

 

[QwikKota]

Yep. Like this. So much fun in 1 day!

 

[turkeybird56]

Yep. Like this. So much fun in 1 day!

View attachment 570224

Glad to see U got jack-stands there also, not just up in the air on the floor jack. Good advertisement for "safety", cause I have known more than (1) fool do things in a foolish manner.

 

[QwikKota]

Glad to see U got jack-stands there also, not just up in the air on the floor jack. Good advertisement for "safety", cause I have known more than (1) fool do things in a foolish manner.

That would be real dumb to do this with just the jack under the pumpkin, especially while having to get the tires spinning in 1st/2nd but yeah there are idiots out there. I prefer 6 ton stands for trucks. Mine have the safety pin in addition to the lever pawl.

I would also try to find a 12V fluid pump. To heck with that stupid bottle hand pump.

 

[Daw14]

Save your money up and service it properly.
Filter and fresh fluid , into a level transmission. At the appropriate temperature.
Why do this half u know ?
If it is beyond your capability, hire it out.

 

[caulk04]

I just did the same thing to a beater Jetta I just bought. Has 173k on it, likely never a service on the trans. Dumped the fluid and refilled. To be honest, if the filter is plugged and needs changed, the trans is likely on it's way out anyway. FWIW, my wife's Fusion doesn't even have a filter you can change, it's internal and requires tear down.

Carefully measuring the fluid you drain and refilling with the same amount will bypass all of the nonsense required to set level. If you're set on this method, run the right side of the truck on ramps so you can actually get enough fluid in and I'd recommend adding 1/2 quart to your new fluid.

I fully understand the desire to do something but not always the correct or complete thing. It's better than nothing and if it serves your sensibilities then have a ball.

 

[QwikKota]

Caulk has a good point. Aside from only lifting up the passenger side, you can't get all the fluid back in unless the transmission is cycled through a few gears with engine running. I would do the green sheet procedure to a T.

 

[Wild one]

Transmissions aren't something you want to do a 1/2 a$$ed job on They're expensive and fairly labour intensive to replace,just because you decided to be cheap and lazy

 

[4xdad]

Don’t be cheap be lazy take to the shop trannys need good fluid. I do all my own work but I farm out the tranny filter and fluid change just because it’s so messy

 

[Wild one]

Don’t be cheap be lazy take to the shop trannys need good fluid. I do all my own work but I farm out the tranny filter and fluid change just because it’s so messy

I'm not so sure i'd take it to a shop for servicing,alot of shops won't level the transmission,plus it should be done when the truck and transmission are cold.The ideal checking temp on the 8 speed is between 100F and 105F,the 122F listed in the green sheet is the "max" checking temp,not the ideal checking temp.You'd have to drive the truck there the night before,so they could do the service in the morning when it's cold

 

[4xdad]

Yes that is what I do